Arizer Solo

Kaptan

Well-Known Member
so i've checked ALL over for those O-Rings and can't seem to find any other ones except that amazon one that ships in 4 weeks! lol. If anyone has another link they've used please link. Thank you
Do you happen to have any silicone tubing? If so, you can cut about an inch, then cut that piece lengthwise. Use that to make an o-ring.
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
I like that too but I read somewhere that PV is going to have a sturdy gong coming out soon and is shorter than your one which I would prefer! I've also heard that PV may have a surprise for everyone on 420, so I am keeping my eyes open for those hard to get glassware!
We will see?
I'll get one one day.
In the meantime my system is working fine.
 
ataxian,
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Long time lurker who just pulled the trigger on a Solo off puffitup. I sure hope this is as good as everyone says because I was turned off to vaping by an idiot friend who had a cheap $40 chinese vaporizer and used a paint stripping gun he bought at home depot with a plastic grocery bag as another vape. I felt combusting was safer than using those things so I always just bought glass.
 

m0sh

Singer Song Writer Stoner
Hey guys, just wanted to show you my old setup before there were any PV stems out there...

I hope you can watch this clip, its by J.R.R Tolkin who was kind enough to get me this setup :)

This is a 14.4m bubbler, a small silicon tube and a stock stem.

 

$un

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, just wanted to show you my old setup before there were any PV stems out there...

I hope you can watch this clip, its by J.R.R Tolkin who was kind enough to get me this setup :)

This is a 14.4m bubbler, a small silicon tube and a stock stem.



haha that's exactly the same way my setup is right now until i get the gong.

You could also try putting a screen in there, .583" (14.8mm) screens will fit right in the bowl.


is it any different effect from putting the screen directly into the bowl compare to the stem?
 
$un,

Yoshi

Woah
Thanks for your input OF, there is definitely a lot i can learn from you. i think it comes very much down to preferences. not everyone likes blunts & not every one likes joints & bong. each has their own preferred method that they like more than the other. same with the draw resistance, some people appreciate the thicker clouds with the draw resistance & some people appreciate the easier draw like we are traditionally used to. i am one of those people that like a better air flow & appreciate the easier draw resistance. i am by no means looking for a bong like effect but what i mean by ''kind of'' like a bong is that more easier & cooler vape, that is what i enjoy. lets just say i am big fan of ice bongs but now i don't smoke anymore i vape & looking for the same effects. i never said it matter that both companies are geographically closer, but my point is they might just be helping each other out & it might be a business scheme for all we consumers know.



i wrote to pv & they explained to me what each one does & their effects, so yes now i understand what i need to go for. i just got into the vaping game maybe 3-4 months ago & had the solo for about 2 weeks now, so i am still pretty much getting used to it. i think i just have to train myself to draw slower & longer, i think at times i don't pay attention & unintentionally draw a little harder. as time goes by i will master the draws even more from practice. but after breaking the glass screen on my stock stem it has helped A LOT also by lifting the stem a bit makes a noticeable difference, thanks for your input i much appreciate it.

You could also try putting a screen in there, .583" (14.8mm) screens will fit right in the bowl. In my experience 1 will help a bit (my preference) but 2 will make a super big difference. :wave:

IMG_20130321_210849_661-1_zps774b3196.jpg
 

Jeff-K

Well-Known Member
For those looking for o-rings;
Google the o-ring store. I have a pack of o-rings for my e-cig mod and they do the job. It's model# S70014

well what I consider to be very low is the temp range of 180F-220F. At temps that low you can have a different type of "experience" with your meds... Question for you Dreamerr.... do you like the pinnacle? I have heard and seen on the forms here that it's pretty boss.

I ment 220F so that would be at... 105C. But yessir you are correct any higher than 220C (see what I did there) would not be good at all then the bad compounds start to come out..

At temps that low your "experience" should indeed be very different. As in, there shouldn't be any... Cannabinoids need higher temps to evaporate. So you're basically breathing hot air. Your stash will last a long time tho.

Correct me if I'm wrong here!
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
Lots of good talk about temperatures. Please let me add a thought to the mix. This is not a deal of magic thresholds, that is 'no THC before XX degrees, then you get it all'. Consider water boils at 212F but a rain puddle evaporates on a 70 degree day. Boiling point is just the place where (at that pressure) no liquid water exists, it's all going to be steam (vapor) but the time it makes 213F.

There's actually formulas for this, giving partial pressures in mm of Mercury (760mm being normal atmospheric pressure, give or take, as the weather channel reports). At room temperature this is a few mm IIRC for water. If the air is 'dry' (there's less than that pressure already there, evaporation happens since water molecules leave the puddle faster than they condense out. Get past that (like when temperature drops) and you go pass 100% Relative Humidity and you get fog. Heat the water enough and the partial pressure number reaches 760mm and boiling happens. This is the physics definition of boiling in fact, when partial pressure equals chamber pressure you're boiling. Freeze drying works this way too in a fun way by reducing the vessel pressure so the vapor pressure of the ice is higher.

So THC has a vapor pressure near 760mm at about 390F. It 'boils' then. It all wants to be vapor above that unless you raise the pressure in the room.

This is also why stuff cooks slower in Denver. A 3 minute egg is really soft there because the pressure is lower 'a mile high' and therefore the boiling water is less than 212F. In Death Valley it would be modestly higher than at sea level. In a steam boiler, as the pressure builds the boiling point goes up which is how you can have liquid water in a boiler above 212F.

The other way to look at it is saturation. Fog means the air is holding more water than it can (so the excess comes out as floating water drops), the air is saturated with water vapor. Clouds are the same thing, only up there (where it's cold), rather than down here (where it's warm). Likewise our vapor has a saturation number based on temperature (never seen it listed, has anyone?). This situation is what the cloud chasers chase.

So you're getting at least some of the good stuff way under 'the magic temperature'. The rate may be low, but it's there. Like the drying rain puddle. Heat your bud to say 300F long enough and you'll have none left without ever making it to 390F.

To use a really bad pun, 'it's a matter of degrees"?

OF
 

Jeff-K

Well-Known Member
OF I get what you're saying but you should also keep in mind that there is a concentration threshold that needs to be reached before you can actually feel effect. Or your toleration should be at or below sea level.

Question remains, can you get an experience from heating bud to 180-220°F.

I would expect the answer to be no under normal circumstances.
 
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zippobong

New Member
Need some tips on cleaning&reclaiming the stems- what you use to clean the stock bent ones? I let it on ISO and almost everything got out, but now the stem now has a strong ISO smell- does that happened with you too? Should i clean it any other way to remove the smell? The ISO Is not 100%, any problems on that?

As for reclaiming, even using screens some tiny pieces still pass through it and stick on the stems- when making the hot milk thing, do you simply ignore it?

Tks!!
 
zippobong,

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Need some tips on cleaning&reclaiming the stems- what you use to clean the stock bent ones? I let it on ISO and almost everything got out, but now the stem now has a strong ISO smell- does that happened with you too? Should i clean it any other way to remove the smell? The ISO Is not 100%, any problems on that?

As for reclaiming, even using screens some tiny pieces still pass through it and stick on the stems- when making the hot milk thing, do you simply ignore it?

Tks!!
EVERCLEAR if you can get it.
The higher % Alcohol is best.
97% or higher.
93% CVS brand after taste.
Alcohol evaporates.
It's the residue you are tasting.

"OF" can explain it better!
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Personally I like to boil such pieces for at least several minutes (the water doesn't need to be 'rolling boil', but you need water vapor (steam) bubble forming in the liquid and rising to the surface). This means 212F water, the ISO boils at something like 180F so it has to evaporate very quickly. The problem is anything not washed off by ISO has the ISO dissolved in it anyway (it won't dissolve into the glass itself).

The film left by the ISO is working against you.

Sometimes I just put it in the sink and set a slow run of hot tap water past it. Prop it up in a glass or something so the water flows past it staying hot. This takes a little longer since the hot water isn't as hot, but it too works.

Washing the stem with strong detergent (like dishwasher 'soap'), even dish soap) can make it much easier by removing the film left by the ISO. Rinse well and dry?

OF
 

m0sh

Singer Song Writer Stoner
I don't get all this ISO washing...the resin can be easily used with a cotton ball again with the solo ...

You take a cotton ball and soak all the resin into it then you put it in your stem and 7 and enjoy a blazing super high...

oh and I have 99% absolute ethanol ;)
 

UnixRasta

Well-Known Member
Long time lurker who just pulled the trigger on a Solo off puffitup. I sure hope this is as good as everyone says because I was turned off to vaping by an idiot friend who had a cheap $40 chinese vaporizer and used a paint stripping gun he bought at home depot with a plastic grocery bag as another vape. I felt combusting was safer than using those things so I always just bought glass.

Captain, I just received my new Solo M1B this week from gotvape.com.
I am so impressed with it, it is now my primary vape.
I have put my viVape2 in the drawer, to use as a backup.
It is right next to my PAX, which is only used when out and about.
I just love the flexibility of the Solo and the adjustable temperatures.
The Solo with the straight stem reminds me of a Star Wars type device in the dark,
lights blinking and all...
Kind of a futuristic get-high device!
 
UnixRasta,

2clicker

Observer
I don't get all this ISO washing...the resin can be easily used with a cotton ball again with the solo ...

You take a cotton ball and soak all the resin into it then you put it in your stem and 7 and enjoy a blazing super high...

oh and I have 99% absolute ethanol ;)

using iso to reclaim is ideal if your going to use the oil in another vape. like a CEO/dart or omi cart.

im sure the cotton works but id prefer to not have to use it.

for those looking for orings or washers... just go here and they have anything you can imagine: www.mcmastercarr.com
 
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clouded vision

Well-Known Member
oh and I have 99% absolute ethanol ;)
where did you get absolute alcohol and how do you store it? anything higher than 95.6 is extremely difficult to make and very expensive, also it needs to be stored in 0 humidity or it will pull moisture out of the air the reduce it to the 95.6

also you can use iso to wash the stem out right onto a cotton ball evap it and use that the same way you would. it just makes it easier to get the stem all the way clean without having to heat the stem at all, plus no risk of having cotton fibers stuck in the stem past the bowl
 
clouded vision,

zippobong

New Member
Personally I like to boil such pieces for at least several minutes (the water doesn't need to be 'rolling boil', but you need water vapor (steam) bubble forming in the liquid and rising to the surface). This means 212F water, the ISO boils at something like 180F so it has to evaporate very quickly. The problem is anything not washed off by ISO has the ISO dissolved in it anyway (it won't dissolve into the glass itself).

The film left by the ISO is working against you.

Sometimes I just put it in the sink and set a slow run of hot tap water past it. Prop it up in a glass or something so the water flows past it staying hot. This takes a little longer since the hot water isn't as hot, but it too works.

Washing the stem with strong detergent (like dishwasher 'soap'), even dish soap) can make it much easier by removing the film left by the ISO. Rinse well and dry?

OF
I'm sure this will work!!
Here is very difficult to find this high % ISO, maybe thats why the residue is so smelly...

Thanks a lot!
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I'm sure this will work!!
Here is very difficult to find this high % ISO, maybe thats why the residue is so smelly...

Thanks a lot!

You know the salt trick, right? Add some coarse ground salt to the ISO. A little will dissolve in the water part, but the rest stays as grains and can be shaken back and forth to 'scrub' the walls for you. Pour it all down the sink and rinse and you're ready to go on with the cleaning/drying.

In such cases I use a fair bit of salt maybe 1/4 of the ISO volume?

OF
 
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m0sh

Singer Song Writer Stoner
using iso to reclaim is ideal if your going to use the oil in another vape. like a CEO/dart or omi cart.

im sure the cotton works but id prefer to not have to use it.

for those looking for orings or washers... just go here and they have anything you can imagine: www.mcmastercarr.com

Ok I get it, but if you plan on using it with the solo, use the cotton trick its awesome :)
I don't own many vaporizers its overwhelming.

where did you get absolute alcohol and how do you store it? anything higher than 95.6 is extremely difficult to make and very expensive, also it needs to be stored in 0 humidity or it will pull moisture out of the air the reduce it to the 95.6

also you can use iso to wash the stem out right onto a cotton ball evap it and use that the same way you would. it just makes it easier to get the stem all the way clean without having to heat the stem at all, plus no risk of having cotton fibers stuck in the stem past the bowl

Really? did you see how they store acid in Breaking Bed ? plastic bottle...I bought it from one place who give ethanol for doctors and such...
Cost me about 20$ for 1 liter.
 
m0sh,
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Bouldorado

Well-Known Member
You know the salt trick, right? Add some coarse ground salt to the ISO. A little will dissolve in the water part, but the rest stays as grains and can be shaken back and forth to 'scrub' the walls for you. Pour it all down the sink and rinse and you're ready to go on with the cleaning/drying.

In such cases I use a fair bit of salt maybe 1/4 of the ISO volume?

OF

You can also concentrate the ISO with various salts, epsom salt is one for example. I've never done this since I've always had access to cheap 90%+, but it's definitely an option for someone who wants stronger ISO. Search "drying isopropyl alcohol" on google to find a guide.
 
Bouldorado,
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OF

Well-Known Member
Really? did you see how they store acid in Breaking Bed ? plastic bottle...I bought it from one place who give ethanol for doctors and such...
Cost me about 20$ for 1 liter.

I don't know what "Breaking Bad" is, some movie? Actually, plastic is often the proffered bottle. Not only is it less likely to break when dropped but some acids will actually attack glass. I used to work for a National Lab. We paid extra for plastic bottles in many of the chemicals we used. The EH&S (Environmental Health and Safety) guys forced it. Same with some of the alcohols. As they explained in the mandatory classes, it's better to split a seam and leak that shatter and spread nasty chemicals and broken glass far and wide.....not that you're supposed to drop it of course.

Absolute alcohol is often sold with a little bit of methyl alcohol in it. Called 'Denatured' or 'methylated' often. As a solvent it's still fine, but you can't drink it. Since they boil at almost the same temperature you also can't distill it out once added. Looking for 'Denatured Alcohol' is a good way to get it, IIRC it's a common solvent for shellacs or something? Paint places sometimes have it.

OF
 
OF,

m0sh

Singer Song Writer Stoner
I don't know what "Breaking Bad" is, some movie? Actually, plastic is often the proffered bottle. Not only is it less likely to break when dropped but some acids will actually attack glass. I used to work for a National Lab. We paid extra for plastic bottles in many of the chemicals we used. The EH&S (Environmental Health and Safety) guys forced it. Same with some of the alcohols. As they explained in the mandatory classes, it's better to split a seam and leak that shatter and spread nasty chemicals and broken glass far and wide.....not that you're supposed to drop it of course.
Absolute alcohol is often sold with a little bit of methyl alcohol in it. Called 'Denatured' or 'methylated' often. As a solvent it's still fine, but you can't drink it. Since they boil at almost the same temperature you also can't distill it out once added. Looking for 'Denatured Alcohol' is a good way to get it, IIRC it's a common solvent for shellacs or something? Paint places sometimes have it.

OF

Its a TV series, but it's exactly what I meant(what you said) - I keep it as it was sold to me in a plastic bottle.
 
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clouded vision

Well-Known Member
breaking bad is a fictional tv show about making meth and they were working with acids not absolute ethanol. different compounds do different things. if you got a liter for$20 you got a great deal because it's running $100/ liter from scientific supply websites, also if you are just storing in a bottle that you have taken the top off and allowed humid air at it you now have everclear not absolute alcohol.
 
clouded vision,
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