The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie

[n0tu2]

Been messing with the V2. Definitely different then my V1.. easier to clean imo and would consider it a total upgrade for sure. Took it all apart/balls and all - cleaned and rebuilt / super easy. haven't gone into the top visual coil/indicator housing yet.. soon.

Something I noticed is the visual indicator has a little bit of a jerky motion when rising up (V1 is smooth and even rise). Also a small jump/wiggle after a click. Will go in and check for burs next cleaning - not sure if this is how they all are tho? the jumpy jerky shaky movement. First click for mine is at the first dot and second comes at about 2nd dot (almost same as V1). It does go all the way up to 3rd dot eventually (tested empty past 2nd click) V1 kinda stalls at 2.5 dot never makes it to 3. Been stopping at 2nd click/2nd dot native - Few good tasty hits (hot clean ups) and almost a dark tobacco almost light coffee brown abv. No reheat needed.. probably would have been all popcorn at that point. More left for sure but done for me.. potent effects.

I set the airflow to half open on cap and the dot with small line shape on stem airflow (keep it covered most of hit and feather towards end) using the same depth and original wand insert as V1.. haven't tried the new wand adapter yet.

Well made and solid in hand.. mini cigar. Hits are pretty damn close to an actual smoking feel like the V1..the ones where you think this has to be combustion but it's not. The first cool down click is pretty quick and second click is about 1min 30 +/- secs after. quicker then V1. both are pretty loud clicks. probably will change with use. I like it a lot. 100% no buyers remorse on this vas.

 

[HoodiesAndHondas]

Simple, but effective.

https://imgur.com/a/3GX5zy7

 

[mahpman]

After a week with the V2 with the metal sleeve I finally put on the wood one to try. Does anyone else think the vapor taste better with the wood sleeve or am I trippin? Can that actually make a difference?

 

[SleepyGhost515]

Whipped up some wood heat shields for this bad boy.

 

[Caliban]

Whipped up some wood heat shields for this bad boy.

That's a beauty.

 

[SleepyGhost515]

That's a beauty.

Thank you! They’re really fun to make and even more fun to swap out. It’s like legos and transformers combined. I never grew up, just found new toys lol!
I have 4 more too, they’ll be on my site in 2 hours.

 

[Caliban]

Thank you! They’re really fun to make and even more fun to swap out. It’s like legos and transformers combined. I never grew up, just found new toys lol!
I have 4 more too, they’ll be on my site in 2 hour

Am I allowed to ask for a link?

 

[SleepyGhost515]

Am I allowed to ask for a link?

I’m really not sure about the rules here. Most places don’t like advertising, and i don’t want to be that guy lol. Throw .com on the end of my username and you’ll find it. I also think it’s in my bio here on FC, but I’m not sure where lol. I’m still new around here, been YEARS since I’ve been on a forum.

 

[LAWTHEONE]

Ever since I got this thing, I’ve been using it nonstop. Initially, I had some trouble getting it tuned in just right. Once I got the vapor the way I wanted it I was in love.

I had cleaned the vape several times soaking the head, but I never took it apart yet. Then yesterday while I was emptying my Tempest, I dropped it from about 2 feet onto a rug. I didn’t pay any attention and just picked up the head all fast and to my surprise suddenly I heard what sound like hundreds of balls on the hardwood floor. I immediately thought oh no they’re gone now there’s no chance of retrieving them all. So I went to my extras bag that was sent with my unitand noticed that I had some more balls and threw them in. I learned my lesson. I will definitely make sure the screen is tight after each wash.

What I really could use my FC families help with is, what kind of balls is everyone using? Which ones are the best? Which ones come installed in the vape? What size are the ones that came installed 2.5 mm or 3 mm. I can already tell that I liked the flavor from whatever was installed better than the secondary balls that came with my unit. I was about to order so I’m off their website but there’s so many options. I’m confused. Also the balls that were installed initially had soaked several times but yet were still completely discolored?

Thanks, FC family

 

[cybrguy]

The balls that come in the T2 are 3mm zirconium. The T1 came with 2.5mm balls, also zirconium. I have found that the best way to fully clean the zirconium balls is to torch them back to their bright white color. So far I haven't tried any other balls in the T2 but I had tried the SIC balls, the glass balls and the SS balls in the T1, and I always eventually went back to the zirconium. Brenyo included some ruby balls with the T2 that I will try some time, but I have generally liked zirconium best.

 

[Fearless Disaster]

Hi! Well in the process of cleaning I have lost a few zirc balls from my t1 and t2 and don't have spares. I do have tons of 3mm rubies though. The MH site no longer has the chart with the different balls in the manual. What should i expect if i put 3mm rubies in the T1 and T2? I wasn't dissatisfied with the zirc although i never got even avb, even with the T2. I have been using 530F with the new insert for the T2 and about 100F lower for the T1. The T2 is in the full bowl position, the T1 is in the half bowl position

 

[LAWTHEONE]

The replacement balls that were supplied with my V2 were either quartz or boro balls. I can tell the difference in flavor and it’s definitely a decline from the zirconium. Which balls are the most flavorful? Are the rubies just flavorful, but have more heat retention?

 

[n0tu2]

Anyone count their balls? When I first cleaned it I counted about 42 zirc balls.. sound about right? The quartz/glass packet looks like it contains a lot more then 42 balls. The zircs looked a little light tbh ..was thinking of mixing a few rubies in with them if its short.

oh, the clicks did change after many bowls.. now 1st click comes a tiny bit before the first dot and 2nd click 4-5 seconds after and around 1.2 dots area.. even if I stop there at the 2nd click the visual indicator does continue to climb to the 2nd dot and maybe a touch further.

Plenty hot at the 2nd click for native use imo regardless of the indicator.. any hotter would be throat torture. Still have a feeling the indicator is not moving as it should tho - gonna go in deep soon/almost time for another cleaning.. I had the v1 open and all disassembled and rebuilt the housing so not worried.. assuming that the v2 is similar inside tho! lol

 

[Finn2]

Mine takes 41 3mm rubies. Very important not to overfill them. If your ball screen falls out look at the tabs, you are probably overfilling. It shouldnt take a lot of pressure to close. I made a guide below:

https://imgur.com/a/vJ4i5Re

 

[DaVapeGuy]

Do we know when the v2 guide will be completed? From what I remember the v1 guide was available at launch.

Kind of sucks to have to search through this thread for tidbits of info on how to use/assemble the device.

It would be nice to see how all the bits and pieces work as I know it's a well thought out product.

 

[Fearless Disaster]

Do we know when the v2 guide will be completed? From what I remember the v1 guide was available at launch.

Kind of sucks to have to search through this thread for tidbits of info on how to use/assemble the device.

It would be nice to see how all the bits and pieces work as I know it's a well thought out product.

I think we are still technically prelaunch, althought the mh site just refers to the "next batch of tempests". The ti ones were an early adopter preorder, the aluminum ones were to be the official launch. It looks like they got a small batch of aluminum ones early and sold them. I'd expected the completed guide at the end of the month when the aluminum ones go up for real.

Mine takes 41 3mm rubies. Very important not to overfill them. If your ball screen falls out look at the tabs, you are probably overfilling. It shouldnt take a lot of pressure to close. I made a guide below:

https://imgur.com/a/vJ4i5Re

Thank you for this! I am a visual learner and this guide hooked me up. The only thing I might add is that there is a click when the screen is positively locked as shown in your last picture.

 

[n0tu2]

Mine takes 41 3mm rubies. Very important not to overfill them. If your ball screen falls out look at the tabs, you are probably overfilling. It shouldnt take a lot of pressure to close. I made a guide below:

https://imgur.com/a/vJ4i5Re

ahh so it's probably right then - 41-42 zirc balls. i had the screen out and in a few times so far. many hard shake tests on the final close there is a clicking sound when the screen locks in and its not that hard of a turn either.. once you get it laying flat go anti/counterclockwise a quarter turn then clockwise..feel a little pressure then a click/locked.. was able to use the spiral cooling units flathead part to do it.. works on the top screw too..

 

[SleepyGhost515]

Hi! Well in the process of cleaning I have lost a few zirc balls from my t1 and t2 and don't have spares. I do have tons of 3mm rubies though. The MH site no longer has the chart with the different balls in the manual. What should i expect if i put 3mm rubies in the T1 and T2? I wasn't dissatisfied with the zirc although i never got even avb, even with the T2. I have been using 530F with the new insert for the T2 and about 100F lower for the T1. The T2 is in the full bowl position, the T1 is in the half bowl position

The old manual is still there. From the home page, or maybe any page, scroll all the way to the bottom and there’s a link titled manuals. You’ll find the chart there.

 

[Finn2]

The only thing I might add is that there is a click when the screen is positively locked as shown in your last picture.

there is a clicking sound when the screen locks in and its not that hard of a turn either.. once you get it laying flat go anti/counterclockwise a quarter turn then clockwise..feel a little pressure then a click/locked

Yup thanks I completely forgot to mention that the tabs slot into detents cut into the slots. Its a very secure lock that is very haptic when engaged with a good click. If you look at the incorrect screen pic you will see on the visible tabs the arms are under a lot of tension, vs the correct one where the arms are loose. Very nice compliant mechanism @Brenyo

 

[Nyrik]

Mine takes 41 3mm rubies.

​

I'm considering getting some different balls. Would you recommend buying rubies? What are the main differences compared to zirconium?

 

[n0tu2]

Yup thanks I completely forgot to mention that the tabs slot into detents cut into the slots. Its a very secure lock that is very haptic when engaged with a good click. If you look at the incorrect screen pic you will see on the visible tabs the arms are under a lot of tension, vs the correct one where the arms are loose. Very nice compliant mechanism @Brenyo

Another thing I remember reading in an older thread is to be careful if you use a debowler on the head/ball end. I use a trimmed s&b brush if needed on the head or bowl, but mostly everything just falls out of the head and bowl on its own if cooked well (usually there is nothing in the head at all).

If you use a debowler on the head most people's natural motion is clockwise and I think the debowler spike will spin counter clockwise on the ball screen potentially loosening it over time until a ball surprise (I hope I got the direction spin right) so either spin the other way when debowling or use a brush on the head part. Bowl should be fine either direction ..

 

[Fearless Disaster]

Does anyone have a ballpark wand timing increase for 3mm rubies compared to to 3mm zirc in the T2 and 2.5mm zirc in the T1? Both using the v2 wand adapter. I'm hoping to start my experiments closer to the end point since the Tempest is slower for me to dial in from scratch since wand timings and roasts start from cold. Maybe like a 50F increase from 3mm zirc to 3mm rubies?

 

[Datoneguy]

Hey, just got the tempest 2 and cleaned it. I was wondering how you guys went about cleaning the head before the first use? I just cotton swabbed the inside with iso, then water, then dried it (without opening part that contains zirconia balls). Is that sufficient or should I do more?

Also, is there an assembly and dissassebly video for this one? I think I got it down, except for the heatshield. I can't seem to get it to lock in place and am wondering if the mouthpiece is supposed be the thing that locks it in and the gap at the top is normal? I have no idea if I'm describing that well, but I'm thinking that it's supposed to be locked in by the mouthpiece this time around rather than to lock in and stay by itself like the first tempest did.

I am liking that a few parts are threaded rather than parts that slide together. Idk for sure but I assume it will make cleaning less annoying, and I can tell you it made assembly a little more streamlined imo (minus the heatshield but it's also brand new to be fair).

Can't wait to try this puppy out. Debating if I'll use it dry or through a jhook first. I can feel pulling through the tempest 1 and 2 side by side that the airflow is notably improved, which is pretty exciting becaue I already find the first one to be pretty easy to pull from overall. Excited to try this thing.

I'm going to use it with the og tempest silicon wand adapter. Just feeling lazy and don't want to switch the adapters atm. Anyone use it this way and if so any suggested numbers to try? I might just try tempest 1 settings and see how it goes but thought i'd ask here too.

 

[n0tu2]

Hey, just got the tempest 2 and cleaned it. I was wondering how you guys went about cleaning the head before the first use? I just cotton swabbed the inside with iso, then water, then dried it (without opening part that contains zirconia balls). Is that sufficient or should I do more?

Also, is there an assembly and dissassebly video for this one? I think I got it down, except for the heatshield. I can't seem to get it to lock in place and am wondering if the mouthpiece is supposed be the thing that locks it in and the gap at the top is normal? I have no idea if I'm describing that well, but I'm thinking that it's supposed to be locked in by the mouthpiece this time around rather than to lock in and stay by itself like the first tempest did.

I am liking that a few parts are threaded rather than parts that slide together. Idk for sure but I assume it will make cleaning less annoying, and I can tell you it made assembly a little more streamlined imo (minus the heatshield but it's also brand new to be fair).

Can't wait to try this puppy out. Debating if I'll use it dry or through a jhook first. I can feel pulling through the tempest 1 and 2 side by side that the airflow is notably improved, which is pretty exciting becaue I already find the first one to be pretty easy to pull from overall. Excited to try this thing.

I'm going to use it with the og tempest silicon wand adapter. Just feeling lazy and don't want to switch the adapters atm. Anyone use it this way and if so any suggested numbers to try? I might just try tempest 1 settings and see how it goes but thought i'd ask here too.

ya it's a little diff then the v1.. you can still just dunk the whole head balls and all in 99% for few mins.. then rinse and dunk it in hot water for a little bit ..rinse again.. dry as best u can with a paper towel..shake it out a bit.. then assemble and burn off any water left in there by putting it in the wand empty and run a couple cycles.. same as v1 tempest

do not use the new v2 adapter when burning off as it says in the manual hot water splatter can melt the silicon on it. it will sizzle when burning off (left over water) fine to use the v1 glass adapter for this tho..

adjust how u want the airflow port opening on the stem and while your pushing down on the top part with some pressure - screw in the mouthpiece to lock the airflow setting and stem together..

manual (work in progress?): https://madheaters.co.uk/pages/tempest-2-manual

breakdown (english subtitles):

 

[Datoneguy]

ya it's a little diff then the v1.. you can still just dunk the whole head balls and all in 99% for few mins.. then rinse and dunk it in hot water for a little bit ..rinse again.. dry as best u can with a paper towel..shake it out a bit.. then assemble and burn off any water left in there by putting it in the wand empty and run a couple cycles.. same as v1 tempest

do not use the new v2 adapter when burning off as it says in the manual hot water splatter can melt the silicon on it. it will sizzle when burning off (left over water) fine to use the v1 glass adapter for this tho..

adjust how u want the airflow port opening on the stem and while your pushing down on the top part with some pressure - screw in the mouthpiece to lock the airflow setting and stem together..

manual (work in progress?): https://madheaters.co.uk/pages/tempest-2-manual

breakdown (english subtitles):

Thanks for this, I'm gonna do what you said on the head of the device before first use and will iso soak it then rinse it with water and dry it as you described.

Also, I had no idea on the carb hole, i was confused as to what stem settings this device has and now I know it does have one but it works differently. I might have to reassemble the device to adjust that part right? Or can i adjust it without dissambling it? Maybe I'll try to loosen the mouthpeice or remove it and see if I can adjust from there (edit: watching the vid again, it looks very possible to adjust without dissassembly possibly, I'll try it when I get home to see) . Lol this just tells me I really went into this device blind lol, did not know about this feature at all.

I'm going to attempt the same wand settings i use on the tempest 1 to see if that works well or not. I'll update if I remember lol...
I love that the indicator is green now btw, makes a lot of sense to add more visibility to a visual part of the vape.