The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie

[n0tu2]

Thanks for this, I'm gonna do what you said on the head of the device before first use and will iso soak it then rinse it with water and dry it as you described.

Also, I had no idea on the carb hole, i was confused as to what stem settings this device has and now I know it does have one but it works differently. I might have to reassemble the device to adjust that part right? Or can i adjust it without dissambling it? Maybe I'll try to loosen the mouthpeice or remove it and see if I can adjust from there (edit: watching the vid again, it looks very possible to adjust without dissassembly possibly, I'll try it when I get home to see) . Lol this just tells me I really went into this device blind lol, did not know about this feature at all.

I'm going to attempt the same wand settings i use on the tempest 1 to see if that works well or not. I'll update if I remember lol...
I love that the indicator is green now btw, makes a lot of sense to add more visibility to a visual part of the vape.

ya the top head part has airflow slits like the v1 head but u gotta loosen the screw on the top head a tiny bit to be able to turn the induction sleeve to open or close air thru the head (tighten top screw when set)..

then u got the carb hole on stem too.. just loosen the mouthpiece a little and u can twist the stem to set the carb hole fully closed..fully open.. partial.. etc. then screw back in mouthpiece to lock it in place

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

Thanks for this, I'm gonna do what you said on the head of the device before first use and will iso soak it then rinse it with water and dry it as you described.

Also, I had no idea on the carb hole, i was confused as to what stem settings this device has and now I know it does have one but it works differently. I might have to reassemble the device to adjust that part right? Or can i adjust it without dissambling it? Maybe I'll try to loosen the mouthpeice or remove it and see if I can adjust from there (edit: watching the vid again, it looks very possible to adjust without dissassembly possibly, I'll try it when I get home to see) . Lol this just tells me I really went into this device blind lol, did not know about this feature at all.

I'm going to attempt the same wand settings i use on the tempest 1 to see if that works well or not. I'll update if I remember lol...
I love that the indicator is green now btw, makes a lot of sense to add more visibility to a visual part of the vape.

You can adjust the relative position of the "carb hole" to the sleeve without disassembly, a very slight loosening of the stem and retaining collar allows you to rotate the sleeve to obscure/reveal more of the hole in the stem. I'm coming from a DV Vong where my standard had the hole fully revealed and I *digitally* operated the open/close position. With the TV2 I leave it in the fully closed position. My experience with both the metal and the wooden (these are all V2 factory seconds, so there's that) sleeves is that I didn't feel that I was fully closing the hole - or at least as effectively as I do with the DV's. It's kinda moot anyway as I pull through a bubbler most of the time and it works great with the Tornado V2.

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

ya the top head part has airflow slits like the v1 head but u gotta loosen the screw on the top head a tiny bit to be able to turn the induction sleeve to open or close air thru the head (tighten top screw when set)..

then u got the carb hole on stem too.. just loosen the mouthpiece a little and u can twist the stem to set the carb hole fully closed..fully open.. partial.. etc. then screw back in mouthpiece to lock it in place

Ohhhhhh! So that's how you do it - spin the sleeve while the top screw is loose to increase or reduce the gap? I kept rotating just the top piece looking for it to magically settle into a different valley that aligned differently. Needless to say that didn't happen, LOL. Thanks - I'm going to try this right quick!

 

[n0tu2]

Ohhhhhh! So that's how you do it - spin the sleeve while the top screw is loose to increase or reduce the gap? I kept rotating just the top piece looking for it to magically settle into a different valley that aligned differently. Needless to say that didn't happen, LOL. Thanks - I'm going to try this right quick!

ya .. don't take the screw out just loosen it a turn or so and the whole sleeve should spin a bit opening or closing those air slits.

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

ya .. don't take the screw out just loosen it a turn or so and the whole sleeve should spin a bit opening or closing those air slits.

Light. Bulb. Moment. Thank you! Works a treat.

 

[Sativapo]

I am sure this has been mentionned but can't find it now : does either the bowl or ball screens of the V2 fit on the v1 ?
Edit: found that on my own : nope, not the same diameter.

 

[hotmeals]

Also, is there an assembly and dissassebly video for this one? I think I got it down, except for the heatshield. I can't seem to get it to lock in place and am wondering if the mouthpiece is supposed be the thing that locks it in and the gap at the top is normal?

Yes the mouthpiece holds the heat shield in place, and the gap at the top is by design, to reduce heat transfer.

 

[Singularity Walker]

What I really could use my FC families help with is, what kind of balls is everyone using? Which ones are the best? Which ones come installed in the vape? What size are the ones that came installed 2.5 mm or 3 mm. I can already tell that I liked the flavor from whatever was installed better than the secondary balls that came with my unit. I was about to order so I’m off their website but there’s so many options. I’m confused. Also the balls that were installed initially had soaked several times but yet were still completely discolored?

Thanks, FC family

As others have mentioned, T1 came with 2.5mm Zirc, T2 came with 3mm Zirc. As mentioned by others, best cleaning method for the balls is put them in a container that you can torch them till they glow to just burn off all residue.
After much deliberation and quite a few ball changes both in size and ball type I have finally decided on SiC 3mm (42 Tv1, 35 Tv2) as my ball choice while using the Wand as heater for both my T1 & T2 heads.
I find it interesting that both my T1 and T2 heads fit such significantly different amounts on the SiC balls as compared to Zirc or Ruby (seems the 3mm SiC may a bit over or both my Zirc & Ruby are slightly under the 3mm size or not quite as perfectly spherical thus allowing slightly more of those types.

SiC won for me because the flavor is near or equal Ruby but required temp is lower. I also found it was easier to hit without combusting even when I had accidentally left the wrong temp on the Wand. The 3mm helps in this regard.
Ruby has what I felt was best flavor but requires more significant heating. Nice advantage is being able to locate dropped balls using a black-light. Note, in my experience, hot ruby balls glow less under a black-light than they do when they've cooled.
Zirc seemed to be the best compromise on price-point and flavor thusly I can understand it as the base inclusion during purchase.
Boro, Quartz, Stainless Steel all fell short for me either in length of session or flavor for my usage style. Some have mentioned that these ball types are more for fast extracting and that is likely why I don't enjoy them as much. All of the ball types I have preferred thus far have been of the more medium to medium-fast extraction speeds,

 

[Minsc_NBoo]

You can adjust the relative position of the "carb hole" to the sleeve without disassembly, a very slight loosening of the stem and retaining collar allows you to rotate the sleeve to obscure/reveal more of the hole in the stem.

If you put a little lubrication on the big oring on the condenser you can just twist the mouthpiece clockwise to adjust the carb hole

Mine takes 41 3mm rubies. Very important not to overfill them. If your ball screen falls out look at the tabs, you are probably overfilling. It shouldnt take a lot of pressure to close. I made a guide below:

https://imgur.com/a/vJ4i5Re

This is a very useful guide. I have saved a copy as I was trying to explain how to set the ball screen yesterday. I visual guide will be easier to understand. I'll make sure to give you credit

 

[Tobias]

Whipped up some wood heat shields for this bad boy.

That looks great, I will definitely be looking to get one from you at some point.

 

[highjokr]

Anyone else struggling with the Tempest 2? I keep ending up with burnt herb. Running it at stock settings with the V2 wand adapter, temp set to 275 °C until time-out using at the the stated depth recommend by mad heaters. Whenever I pull the vape out of the wand I can actually see it starting to smoke from the bottom of the cap. Checked with the reload and it’s already toasted. Anyone else having this issue or is it just me?

 

[turbs]

Anyone else having this issue or is it just me?

Try lowering the temperature...

Running mine stock with head open, stem hole closed, new adapter in wand @ 265°C until timeout (which is just past first click) and happily getting 6 decent hits from smallest bowl setting.

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

Anyone else struggling with the Tempest 2? I keep ending up with burnt herb. Running it at stock settings with the V2 wand adapter, temp set to 275 °C until time-out using at the the stated depth recommend by mad heaters. Whenever I pull the vape out of the wand I can actually see it starting to smoke from the bottom of the cap. Checked with the reload and it’s already toasted. Anyone else hav.ing this issue or is it just me?

Running V2 pre-release factory second, so I believe that's with a different ball material vs GA (2.5 borosilicate vs ?) so that could factor in . . .

I'm running in an OG Ispire Wand with the "new" style MH insert, depth setting so that just a small amout of the "fins" appear above the red line, head fully open and stem fully closed, bowl set to shallowest position - currently using 265 C and pulling at timeout with great success. Since finding the chart x-ref'ing ball types and wand settings/times I've adjusted after initially using it the way I did with my DV's - 280-285 C, wait for 2nd click (guestitime it if you thought you missed 1st click), wait short time for cool down, repeat to complete bowl. ONLY time I ever combusted in my T2 was the first time I used it when I tried that method and that "reheat" was a DISASTER, LOL. I'd only just received it, cleaned it, dried it and . . . time to do it all over again after only one use.

This is wayyyy more better. I started out as per how I interpret the chart for the boro balls to be 250 C until timeout. That worked fine but there was room for improvement on completeness so bumped up to 260 then to 270 and back down to 265. No straining to hear clicks (though there's one prominent click now about halfway through), just a simple visual cue of a red light going out once the time is up. Easy peasy and with my "short" bowls (though still quite large for me) one cycle completely uses the content with about 3 deep draws through a bubbler.

 

[SleepyGhost515]

Idk if it has been mentioned before but I found that my v2 wand adaptor is loose enough that i don’t ever have to flip it over to adjust the height, i can just stick my device in and twist it whichever direction I need.

 

[Fearless Disaster]

Idk if it has been mentioned before but I found that my v2 wand adaptor is loose enough that i don’t ever have to flip it over to adjust the height, i can just stick my device in and twist it whichever direction I need.

it is pretty loose huh? i just put a piece of tape on mine to lock it in place

 

[SleepyGhost515]

it is pretty loose huh? i just put a piece of tape on mine to lock it in place

Oh it’s a feature not a bug. For me at least lol. I love it.

 

[Chicken No Name]

Anyone else struggling with the Tempest 2? I keep ending up with burnt herb. Running it at stock settings with the V2 wand adapter, temp set to 275 °C until time-out using at the the stated depth recommend by mad heaters. Whenever I pull the vape out of the wand I can actually see it starting to smoke from the bottom of the cap. Checked with the reload and it’s already toasted. Anyone else having this issue or is it just me?

I run my wand at 245c with about 5mm of 'fins' above the wand opening. Run to time out. Perfect mid to dark brown abv every time. I've tried hotter but too much and can risk combustion.

So I seem to be running cooler than most.

 

[Alligator427]

What is the temperature you use with bubbler (zirconia balls) for smooth and tasty hit ? Just to have an idea for a starting point.
I should have mine today. But not sure that I will have time to play with it before tomorrow

 

[Feyd2blak]

Anyone else struggling with the Tempest 2? I keep ending up with burnt herb. Running it at stock settings with the V2 wand adapter, temp set to 275 °C until time-out using at the the stated depth recommend by mad heaters. Whenever I pull the vape out of the wand I can actually see it starting to smoke from the bottom of the cap. Checked with the reload and it’s already toasted. Anyone else having this issue or is it just me?

Set it higher in the wand, sounds like heating the bowl directly, not all wands are the same

 

[Nyrik]

I run my wand at 245c with about 5mm of 'fins' above the wand opening. Run to time out. Perfect mid to dark brown abv every time. I've tried hotter but too much and can risk combustion.

So I seem to be running cooler than most.

These are pretty much also the exact settings I use with a WPA. I also adjusted mine to be slightly higher than shown on the website, and the suggested temperature was way too high.

I don't know how Brenyo arrived at these temperature settings. When I first tried it according to the recommendation, my bud was fully burned.

 

[giianiii]

Does someone know if it is normal that after i heated up in the wand and i take the cap off immediately, the outside of the material in the bowl is already a little bit toasted and a little bit smoking? Or should it be not so hot at all?

 

[Nyrik]

Does someone know if it is normal that after i heated up in the wand and i take the cap off immediately, the outside of the material in the bowl is already a little bit toasted and a little bit smoking? Or should it be not so hot at all?

imo it's normal due to the proximity of the herb chamber and the induction sleeve also due to the nature of hot air rising. If you want to avoid that, you can try setting the adapter a little bit higher (although I haven't tested that yet).
By smoking, do you mean that the herb is combusted or just vapor? If it's smoke, then you should definitely change the temperature settings of your IH or the height of the adapter

 

[Alligator427]

The newcomer is there. A big baby. I don't why, but I thought it was smaller than the anvil. No more space in my box. Maybe I should stop to buy new vap .... or change the box

 

[van Blitzen]

The newcomer is there. A big baby. I don't why, but I thought it was smaller than the anvil. No more space in my box. Maybe I should stop to buy new vap .... or change the box

Nice collection ! i vote for a new box

 

[Cornelius.Augustus]

The newcomer is there. A big baby. I don't why, but I thought it was smaller than the anvil. No more space in my box. Maybe I should stop to buy new vap .... or change the box

Nice collection! Which ones would you rate highest?