TinyMight / TM 2

[Trackrat]

I see that the TinyMight is out of stock. Upgrades coming?

 

[androponic]

I see that the TinyMight is out of stock. Upgrades coming?

shows in stock for me, i added to cart no problem. they probably just needed a quantity update.

 

[dzoinp]

It does not sense the proper temp at the haptic buzz that indicates start of draw. It goes about 5 seconds longer than it should to get to temp.

Well..now we have @Tinymight arround...
Have you never used it? I have a very my own theory...I think the vapes need a kind of running(what is the specific word?) like the engines until they stabilize...
Did you try to set the temp lower? It should take less time to buzz i guess...(?)
Same battery?

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Hello from Tinymight!

Happy to see a lot of positive discussion about our product and always interested to develop it further. Here a lot of interesting topics covered about the product.

Lately many comments about stems, I would love to have feedback if there are ideas how we could improve our current selection of stems?

Welcome and happy to see you on board ! My TM still kicks ass after so many sessions, it works like day one . I have found after many experimentatons with different designs that the original long stem with the cooling units works best for me. I wish only that the long stem was like 2 cm longer. I have noticed that when the cooling units are lined with the top aluminim panel they transfer lot of heat to it. Also it heats the glass,so too close to the mouth end is not optimal. Do you have any recommendation on the position of the cooling units ? Closer to the heater or closer to the mouth end ?
Maybe you have seen some users using the cooling units as bowls or as screens ,do you think that there is any danger from the o-rings (like offgas) when they are used like that ? I bet the units gets hot as hell that way.

 

[cybrguy]

I think the vapes need a kind of running(what is the specific word?) like the engines

Break in period?

 

[Seantagon]

Quick customer service/repair review for TM.

Recently the button on my Tinymight broke after 1 1/2 years of daily use, the pins on the board had come away this seems to be an early unit design fault that has since been redesigned.

https://imgur.com/a/qFCk5Uy

It took a couple of emails to get TMs attention, the above image seemed to help get past the language barrier. The returns process was actually pretty smooth once they knew the problem and sent a DHL returns label. TM seems to have improved the customer service over the last year as email replies were within a few days.

Within a couple of weeks my unit had been repaired (new button style / redesigned board mount) and returned I didn't get a brand new unit like some others have experienced in this thread, just my old one repaired but overall happy with the service. The new button has a much better feel to it very sturdy and no cost to me.

Well, i bought a Dynavap as a stop-gap while TM was away. VAS is real

Hey do you happen to know when they started to use the new button mechanism? I may have a chance to get one from someone who got it earlyier this year

 

[dzoinp]

Break in period?

hummm, i think that's it
when you buy a new car, motorcycle, anything with a new engine...
you have to do x kms without exceeding certain rotations...
In the case of vapes my theory is that the resistors need to heat up several times to stabilize...but I could be completely wrong

 

[LabPong]

You may need to check/clean/(in one case possibly shim) the electrical contacts, and if so recalibration at best would just make it seem fixed without being fixed.

There’s been some discussion about that issue and which parts to check, but I think it’s mostly the battery contacts and (if that easily accessible part doesn’t work) the bent strip of metal running up along the stem hole and bending under the top cap.

I think you are misunderstanding the situation. I have to much heat lol. I would not have much or enough if there was a contact issue....also the vape is brand new and only went through a handful of burn offs before I started using it recently.

I always take these apart to clean and reset the contacts and use a tiny bit of electric grease. I wish the contact issue was my prob....but its not. In fact, this is my 3rd unit! lol It is a backup and I pulled it out to finally use.

Well..now we have @Tinymight arround...
Have you never used it? I have a very my own theory...I think the vapes need a kind of running(what is the specific word?) like the engines until they stabilize...
Did you try to set the temp lower? It should take less time to buzz i guess...(?)
Same battery?

I was hoping it might of been the fix....but it is way too far off for this to be the issue. I tried the 3 temp step calibration, but could not get it to work at the point you have to get a white light when it is still buzzing. That part never happened aft3er I did the 5 times triple button push.

So is there a newer calibration method than the first one? Still waiting to hear back from TM.

 

[Momor]

I think you are misunderstanding the situation. I have to much heat lol. I would not have much or enough if there was a contact issue....also the vape is brand new and only went through a handful of burn offs before I started using it recently.

I always take these apart to clean and reset the contacts and use a tiny bit of electric grease. I wish the contact issue was my prob....but its not. In fact, this is my 3rd unit! lol It is a backup and I pulled it out to finally use.




I was hoping it might of been the fix....but it is way too far off for this to be the issue. I tried the 3 temp step calibration, but could not get it to work at the point you have to get a white light when it is still buzzing. That part never happened aft3er I did the 5 times triple button push.

So is there a newer calibration method than the first one? Still waiting to hear back from TM.

There shouldn't be a new method. After your 5 triple click with temp dial on 0 (each triple click should result in 4 or 5 rapid and short vibrations), you have then to put your temp dial somewhere else than 0 and triple click again. The color of the LED with the constant vibration could be another color than white if your temp dial is not set at max temp. Colors of LED associated with each step of calibration are blue, then purple, then turquoise, then green, then green+red, then red and then all leds together "white. Green one being the normal calibration.
In your case, you should try the first 3 step I think.

 

[Cheebsy]

That sounds to me like a sensor issue, or a bad contact or component on the board causing a miscalculation in the regulation circuitry. I hope I'm wrong and the recalibration will fix it though.

 

[cybrguy]

I was hoping it might of been the fix....but it is way too far off for this to be the issue. I tried the 3 temp step calibration, but could not get it to work at the point you have to get a white light when it is still buzzing. That part never happened aft3er I did the 5 times triple button push.

Due to the timing issue with clicking it sometimes takes me a couple or 3 tries to get into calibration mode, but it does work for me and it does allow me to make changes. YMMV I guess.

 

[Shit Snacks]

GooRoo came through with tracking just before it delivered today!

Yeah it is pretty big in person, tall narrow as expected, and not surprisingly the mouthpiece is so fucking huge it doubles the height! Yeah that orange mouthpiece is big, thought it was a donut for a second, but there is no hole going through, just a pinch on top and bottom... Beautiful bright orange mixed with the yellow, wonder if I can find a use for the bowl... Time to clean it out and break it in

Thanks, yeah very happy with it... The bright orange and yellow swirl is so nice, the base is 4.5 inches diameter ish, part of why I chose this one over the pure orange one on the left in the photo was because it seemed to have a larger base... And a more bent mouthpiece, the mouthpiece is just so big though all around @arb lol it is nice but @SixStringToker is right, it is just super large in all directions haha, but the actual hole is a good size and it is not uncomfortable, may take some getting used to... Cannot hit it off the coughee table since it is too tall with the mouthpiece, however I have some other mouthpieces to try as well! Also fun to turn the mouthpiece sideways, I may even try drop-downs with it, a lot of options! And yeah this orange one is nice on the lips though, a real kisser, something unique!!

First bowl is going well, with the Halo low ish temp, at first I was trying it with a drop-down though it may be better direct... I also tried it with less water at first, which may have been the real culprit, better with less volume to fill due to the large mouthpiece, and with more drag since this perc purrs so smooth!

Already feeling very satisfied, for my first American glass bubbler and most expensive piece... (logos pretty tasteful in person too)

 

[Seantagon]

I see that the TinyMight is out of stock. Upgrades coming?

I asked them on IG and they hope to have more in stock by Monday.

 

[Vaporware]

I think you are misunderstanding the situation. I have to much heat lol. I would not have much or enough if there was a contact issue....also the vape is brand new and only went through a handful of burn offs before I started using it recently.

I always take these apart to clean and reset the contacts and use a tiny bit of electric grease. I wish the contact issue was my prob....but its not. In fact, this is my 3rd unit! lol It is a backup and I pulled it out to finally use.

Yeah, I did misunderstand that part. A lot less people seem to have that issue than losing power, so I guess I just read it wrong.

The only thing I know you could check on that side is making sure your screen isn’t pushed through and touching the heater. You might need to send it in to make sure everything’s okay, but hopefully TM will have some things for you to check first.

 

[Bad Dog]

Same here, would love a proper 14mm WPA.

I also would love an 18mm, but with the same glass screen set up the current multi-wpa has. I dont want to use the CU, I guess I could slide a basket screen in there instead if need be.

I would prefer no glass screen

 

[sparrowman]

I put rubies in the long glass stem yesterday....
MIND BLOWN. If you haven't tried it yet I highly recommend it. However if anyone has a better solution for keeping them in I'd be interested in hearing what you did, I'm using the cooling unit at the bottom with a badly bent pipe screen at the top!

 

[Sour Dream]

I put rubies in the long glass stem yesterday....
MIND BLOWN. If you haven't tried it yet I highly recommend it. However if anyone has a better solution for keeping them in I'd be interested in hearing what you did, I'm using the cooling unit at the bottom with a badly bent pipe screen at the top!

Ditanium mouth piece or split the cooling unit

 

[dzoinp]

I put rubies in the long glass stem yesterday....
MIND BLOWN. If you haven't tried it yet I highly recommend it. However if anyone has a better solution for keeping them in I'd be interested in hearing what you did, I'm using the cooling unit at the bottom with a badly bent pipe screen at the top!

Thanks @Trackrat and @karec
Put the right size balls inside half of cooling unit, and replace the original screen (yes @Siebter )

Love it

 

[sparrowman]

Ah ok thanks, did try that but the balls I was using (3mm) started to block the holes of the cooling unit.

What size are you using @dzoinp ?

 

[Djsleepy]

I put rubies in the long glass stem yesterday....
MIND BLOWN. If you haven't tried it yet I highly recommend it. However if anyone has a better solution for keeping them in I'd be interested in hearing what you did, I'm using the cooling unit at the bottom with a badly bent pipe screen at the top!

I love Delta3d’s screens they are heavy duty and I guarantee no chance of screen falling out as compared to rounded ones that can fall out easier! Here’s the link

HD Basket Screen (BP465) - 5 Pack

3D Design and Fabrication Studio offering 3D Printed Widgets

delta3dstudios.com

 

[cybrguy]

I put rubies in the long glass stem yesterday....
MIND BLOWN. If you haven't tried it yet I highly recommend it. However if anyone has a better solution for keeping them in I'd be interested in hearing what you did, I'm using the cooling unit at the bottom with a badly bent pipe screen at the top!

I haven't tried this yet but I am still interested.

Put the right size balls inside half of cooling unit, and replace the original screen (yes @Siebter )

Is there consensus on what "the right size balls" is exactly? And a good source that won't make me buy 100 of them? And what material exactly pulls the heat best? And what is the meaning of life expressed in something other than a number?

 

[Shit Snacks]

Ah ok thanks, did try that but the balls I was using (3mm) started to block the holes of the cooling unit.

What size are you using @dzoinp ?

I haven't tried this yet but I am still interested.

Is there consensus on what "the right size balls" is exactly? And a good source that won't make me buy 100 of them? And what material exactly pulls the heat best? And what is the meaning of life expressed in something other than a number?

I think a mix of 4 mm and 6 mm rubies are better because they do not restrict the airflow as much as 3 mm rubies in my experience with TP80 at least! Have not actually tried with my TM yet though lol

 

[dzoinp]

Ah ok thanks, did try that but the balls I was using (3mm) started to block the holes of the cooling unit.

What size are you using @dzoinp ?

I think 3/4 mm... they are irregular (edit: they are 4/5 mm)
that's what stopped me from continuing to use them... maybe more than 1 year ago
Now I put a screen inside to avoid that and it works perfectly... + original screen in the other side

edit:

I'm only using 1 half of the cooling unit in the short stem

 

[invertedisdead]

I’d probably recommend 6MM for cooling. Maybe 5MM if you find them.

The connection between cooling capability and draw restriction is proportional. Smaller will provide more cooling potential at the expense of increased pressure drop.

 

[Cheebsy]

I've a selection of balls of different sizes, 3, 4, 5, and 6mm and I've done some experimentation. Personally, I only see a need for these if looking for portable solutions as a j hook is nicely free flowing and cools adequately for me. However, you can make a great cooling unit in the stock stems with balls if desired. IMO 5mm is the dogs danglies for this purpose weather using the CU halves or any other method to hold them in. The reason I like 5mm is the way they stack. They sit in perfect groups of 4, and you can add or subtract the number of groups to customise the experience. There is a small opening that runs directly through the middle, this can be obstructed with a 3mm ball in one of the groups. I have replaced my CU halves with a section of glass tubing (salvaged broken Evo nails) to create a nearly 100% glass vapour path.