VAS kicking in: Looking for a new, affordable wooden vape

[Siebter]

Still as I don't know anything about box mods or the like besides my tubo evic which I can run in a 10 minute cruise session which should give me a warning when the device (or the battery) gets too hot - which I can't remember to ever get.

Cruise mode and wattage mode stress the battery in different ways, that's not comparable. Besides, what the 10 second shutoff is aiming at is actually the coil – these box mods are made for e cigs, and in the e cig world nobody takes 10 second hits or even close to that, so the button being pressed this long is most likely happening accidentally. Just for clarification. Always keep in mind that these 510 vapes (cleverly) hijack a technology being made for something quite a bit different.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Yes I get that.
But is it really going to harm the Splinter if I heat it for more than 10s? Where's the big difference in heating it 2x10s or even 3x10s with the one second pause in betweeen hits? Does that cool the coil so much? Not all features companies implement in their products make that much sense for the enduser, therefor clever heads go and customize things like firmware in this case.
I really don't know much about 510 Vapes yet but if that was the case I'd just have figured out that they aren't my kind of vape.
Can anyone confirm that? 10s is nothing, theres barely vapor coming.
And I guess CFW remove that "feature" with a purpose.

No you can hold the splinter trigger down longer, as it was mentioned, these mods were not designed for these vapes, so that's why stock firmware is so limiting (aside from setting up proper temp control) as I mentioned the #1 reason to use a custom firmware is to adjust the auto shut off (arcticfox has cruise too, called autofire, limited to 60sec max) So pressing the button two or three times to extend your fire time for a longer hit, is a hack to be able to use the stock firmware with splinter effectively... and look into the secret menu if 15 seconds helps, it should be much more convenient than 10, until you upload the custom firmware to extend it (minimum should be 25 seconds I say)

The same thing just with color?? I've been recommending the Ravage because it works better with my eight Splinters than any of the dozen mods I've owned, including one two and three cell color DNA mods as well as several cheaper TC mods from Wismec, Eleaf, and Joyetech running myevic, tubomyevic, and yes Arctic Fox.

I haven't tried a P80 and I'm not looking for a single cell TC mod that only runs the older firmware. Wait until your Ravage arrives and let us know how your P80 compares. Small sample size but I've never rated any single cell mod that highly for Splinter or especially Z use.

I think you misunderstood my point, frosty just bought a brand new Splinter with a brand new P80, so it seemed fairly ridiculous to me, for you to suggest that he buy a Ravage now too... You know, like let him use what he has already got first!

My other point, was that Red Panda is supposed to be the same as Arctic Fox for color screens... And since you don't have a P80, for all you know the performance of it using Arctic Fox is comparable to the Ravage with Red Panda... Of course I will be able to compare directly myself if/when the ravage is back in stock and finally shipped to me from vapesourcing (although I am planning to use it with a ZV1, while my Arctic Fox P80 is married to my Splinter V2... So not exactly apples to apples... I also really like single battery mods personally, especially for a V2 I think two batteries is not really necessary? Moreso for a Z)

Oh I see, was thinking in the wrong direction. My bad, excuse me. Still as I don't know anything about box mods or the like besides my tubo evic which I can run in a 10 minute cruise session which should give me a warning when the device (or the battery) gets too hot - which I can't remember to ever get.
So yeah, as @bossman is saying I shouldn't discuss too much about topics I don't know much about. It's just an initial disapointment. Let's say there wasn't this great community with all the great manuals, answers, mods etc. and I'd have to keep using this thing with the 10s auto shutdown - that alone would be a reason for me to sell it in an instant. Luckily there are other options .

As I mentioned above, you're right, gotta get the hang of those things first.
So I'll flash the arctic fox firmware these days. Gotta find some kind of manual or walkthrough how to set this up. Unfortunately as I said in an earlier post, the mod you're recommending is kinda expensive over here in Germany. Maybe in the future I'll look into other mods if I get to like the splinter.

Yeah if you really want to you can put tubo firmware on the P80, since that is what you are used to, you could set it up the same way, but to safely use cruise you need to set up accurate temp control... Cruise/autofire can be used with splinters in wattage mode, but you have to be careful that it does not stay on when it is not being used, RBT heater should not be powered without you drawing air through it for more than 5 seconds or so, especially at high wattage...

I use autofire with one of my Z's in surmyevic, set to 25sec, I basically use it so I don't have to hold the button down during my hit. I pressed the button and take my hit and press the button again to turn off the heater and clear my hit, usually in under 25 seconds. This is the one I used through water, usually at high wattage, can even do convection dabs this way.

I also use autofire with my V2 on the P80 running Arctic Fox. There I set it for 45 seconds, and since I have temp control configured, I can let it run if I want, though I still mostly use it the same way... More efficient than just letting it run regardless. I do let my Tetra P80 run, because it was designed by the creator with cruise and properly configured temp control.

Does that make more sense for you?

 

[bossman]

Oh I see, was thinking in the wrong direction. My bad, excuse me. Still as I don't know anything about box mods or the like besides my tubo evic which I can run in a 10 minute cruise session which should give me a warning when the device (or the battery) gets too hot - which I can't remember to ever get.
So yeah, as @bossman is saying I shouldn't discuss too much about topics I don't know much about. It's just an initial disapointment. Let's say there wasn't this great community with all the great manuals, answers, mods etc. and I'd have to keep using this thing with the 10s auto shutdown - that alone would be a reason for me to sell it in an instant. Luckily there are other options .

As I mentioned above, you're right, gotta get the hang of those things first.
So I'll flash the arctic fox firmware these days. Gotta find some kind of manual or walkthrough how to set this up. Unfortunately as I said in an earlier post, the mod you're recommending is kinda expensive over here in Germany. Maybe in the future I'll look into other mods if I get to like the splinter.

That's the spirit. I don't have any mods left running Arctic Fox but just a screenshot from another Splinter setup should have you completely sorted out. I did a Google search and found this random pic of a different mod's settings (in case you haven't installed nfetools on your pc yet).

You'd make these adjustments:

1) set coil material to TCR (I think the edit button to the right of that pull-down is where you'd set TCR to 125 or so)

2) leave resistance blank (or set to .25ohms if that's for sure what your cold reading is). I leave my resistance unlocked but @Shit Snacks prefers locked resistance so maybe it works both ways. I like not thinking about resistance anymore but I'm also using different mods and firmware than you.

3) set max wattage to 35 or 36W

4) check the box by "temperature dominant" at the bottom

5) switch to the General tab to change the puff cutoff to 25 seconds or whatever you're comfortable with

You can also disable six or seven of the profile slots so the device itself will only switch between a profile for tc and one for wattage (which you get by changing the Mode pull-down).

I'll generally configure profile 1 for my Z settings, 2 for the regular splinter, and profile 3 for wattage.

Then you hit the Upload Settings To Device button when you're done.

Again, this is just some borrowed screenshot to show how the config is just form fields and checkboxes:

 

[Likun]

Yeah if you really want to you can put tubo firmware on the P80, since that is what you are used to, you could set it up the same way, but to safely use cruise you need to set up accurate temp control... Cruise/autofire can be used with splinters in wattage mode, but you have to be careful that it does not stay on when it is not being used, RBT heater should not be powered without you drawing air through it for more than 5 seconds or so, especially at high wattage...

I use autofire with one of my Z's in surmyevic, set to 25sec, I basically use it so I don't have to hold the button down during my hit. I pressed the button and take my hit and press the button again to turn off the heater and clear my hit, usually in under 25 seconds. This is the one I used through water, usually at high wattage, can even do convection dabs this way.

I also use autofire with my V2 on the P80 running Arctic Fox. There I set it for 45 seconds, and since I have temp control configured, I can let it run if I want, though I still mostly use it the same way... More efficient than just letting it run regardless. I do let my Tetra P80 run, because it was designed by the creator with cruise and properly configured temp control.

Does that make more sense for you?

I don't need a tubo like cruise mode for the Splinter. I bought it for the 510 on-demand feel (I know I can get that from the tubo aswell but for me tubo stays cruise mode vape ).
I guess I'll try flashin tomorrow.

That's the spirit. I don't have any mods left running Arctic Fox but just a screenshot from another Splinter setup should have you completely sorted out. I did a Google search and found this random pic of a different mod's settings (in case you haven't installed nfetools on your pc yet).

You'd make these adjustments:

1) set coil material to TCR (I think the edit button to the right of that pull-down is where you'd set TCR to 125 or so)

2) leave resistance blank (or set to .25ohms if that's for sure what your cold reading is). I leave my resistance unlocked but @Shit Snacks prefers locked resistance so maybe it works both ways. I like not thinking about resistance anymore but I'm also using different mods and firmware than you.

3) set max wattage to 35 or 36W

4) check the box by "temperature dominant" at the bottom

5) switch to the General tab to change the puff cutoff to 25 seconds or whatever you're comfortable with

You can also disable six or seven of the profile slots so the device itself will only switch between a profile for tc and one for wattage (which you get by changing the Mode pull-down).

I'll generally configure profile 1 for my Z settings, 2 for the regular splinter, and profile 3 for wattage.

Then you hit the Upload Settings To Device button when you're done.

Again, this is just some borrowed screenshot to show how the config is just form fields and checkboxes:

View attachment 3382

Thanks sir, I'll look into that tomorrow!
No worries, I'll most likely report back with some questions.

Thanks for all the participation in this thread so far! I already spent way more money than I intended to when starting this thread. Not to mention that I'm on a cannabreak since 1 week now....... Got some cbd only flower to test though, but unfortunately that doesn't give quite the same vapor as the real bud.

 

[Likun]

Alright, I've flashed my P80 to the newest ArcticFox.
This is what I've set it to now.
There are just so many options in all those tabs. I just tried setting up those steps 1-5 your wrote down. I couldn't find a "max wattage" option, could that be the "power" option? NVM I guess it's called "power limit" here.

Edit:
Was too curious and tried it out. Didn't get any vapor using this settings at 235°C. Doesn't get as hot as it got before @stockFW wattage mode around 35W.

Just made my stem a "cooling stem" btw . Unfortunately there's this ugly looking spot on my body.

 

[bossman]

Alright, I've flashed my P80 to the newest ArcticFox.
This is what I've set it to now.
There are just so many options in all those tabs. I just tried setting up those steps 1-5 your wrote down. I couldn't find a "max wattage" option, could that be the "power" option? NVM I guess it's called "power limit" here.

Edit:
Was too curious and tried it out. Didn't get any vapor using this settings at 235°C. Doesn't get as hot as it got before @stockFW wattage mode around 35W.

Just made my stem a "cooling stem" btw . Unfortunately there's this ugly looking spot on my body.

What kind of 18650 are you using and how new is it?

Try 36 or 37W max and you can also try bumping the TCR anywhere in the 125 - 165 range.

Maybe @Shit Snacks or another P80 owner can comment on specific settings that mod likes with a V2.

All my Splinters produce vapor right on the first hit from a cold start at 182°C. You shouldn't have to go past 210 for full extraction.

I've been less impressed with single cell mods and I don't drain my Splinter mods below maybe 65 or 70% because I perceive a sag in the available power for the heater. I'm almost exclusively using a Z on a two cell Red Panda mod anymore though so it's not a direct comparison.

For some early easy clouds you should also set up your wattage profile. Just set it from 26 to 36w, press the button and draw. Also change your power step to 1w instead of .1w to make adjustments less annoying.

 

[Likun]

Okay I managed to get some vapor hits now.
Do I understand it right that I have to play with the values Watt and TCR to get satisfying results? The temperature setting is more kind of feeling, or experience from other vapes?
Safe TCR range is 125-165 and max output not more than 37 W to avoid damaging anything?
Let's say I set the temperature to 190°C, watt to 36 W then play with tcr until I get results that are comparable to 190° on e.g. my tubo?

Edit:
Batteries are LG HG2 like one year old no heavy use though. Should probably get some new ones soon. Are there any better than those?

 

[bossman]

Okay I managed to get some vapor hits now.
Do I understand it right that I have to play with the values Watt and TCR to get satisfying results? The temperature setting is more kind of feeling, or experience from other vapes?
Safe TCR range is 125-165 and max output not more than 37 W to avoid damaging anything?
Let's say I set the temperature to 190°C, watt to 36 W then play with tcr until I get results that are comparable to 190° on e.g. my tubo?

Edit:
Batteries are LG HG2 like one year old no heavy use though. Should probably get some new ones soon. Are there any better than those?

I like the LG HG2 but they're discontinued. I've been impressed with the vtc6 cells I got most recently. Maybe try 37W max. I've never needed to use the preheat settings so if that's useful for these affordable single cell mods someone else will have to chime in.

And yeah, that's the right approach. Jump right to TCR 165 if you want and see how that works at normal extraction temps from 180 to 210°. Try with your HG2 fully charged too and yeah get some new cells: with a single cell mod it's more important for it to proper high drain and not so run down from use.

 

[BringMacarenaBack]

Whoa. Long thread. Just wanted to share, the first thing that pops to my head when, I heard wooden vape is Dynavap. Unless there are other wooden vape out there. Havent tried using a wooden vape before.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Whoa. Long thread. Just wanted to share, the first thing that pops to my head when, I heard wooden vape is Dynavap. Unless there are other wooden vape out there. Havent tried using a wooden vape before.

Haha I don't even consider them wooden, dynavap is mostly metal really (mine is all glass)

Wood vapes include:
Sticky Bricks (Triihouse were the originals and there is also Dreamwood now and others)
Vapman
MFLB
MistVape vapes
Rasta Buddha Tao (RBT) vapes
Lamart Tubo Tetra vapes
Underdog log vapes
Heat Island log vapes and others by Alan aka ToastyTop
E-Nano log vapes
Ed's Woodscents log vapes
Ditanium
Nomad from Morwood
Vapwood vapes
Tinymight
Firewood
I feel like there are still more than this...

@bossman I did not know the HG2 is discontinued, but yeah not ideal for a single battery mod because it's 18 amps instead of full 20...

@frosty234 you will see a little bit better performance if you use the lower capacity LG HE4 batteries because they are a true 20A (amps) as are Samsung 25R. The Sony battery is also tend to have high amp rating, and you can get a higher capacity...

I use the yellow LG HE4 batteries in my P80, I got three to four bowls, I can keep vaping until below 30% without any issue in both my Splinter V2 on P80 with Arctic Fox and my Tetra P80... Rarely do I use the brown LG HG2 batteries in these vapes, but I am thinking about getting Sony's for even better performance...

I will see if I can share a photo of my splinter settings in Arctic Fox for you, one thing I noticed, you were using a comma instead of a period for your numbers, I don't know if Arctic Fox is able to tell the same like I don't know if it matters but in USA at least it would read "3.0" not "3,0" so I don't know if that is a factor??

I also would recommend getting a cold reading of your resistance value that you can type in and lock there... It's likely .24 - .26 they all vary.

And the only number to adjust would then be the TCR value, up and down, but keep the temperature setting at one middle temperature so you can judge when it feels like that temperature... However not the thing to keep in mind is how as the heater becomes heat soaked it needs less preheat and that can affect performance, like using lower temps are more effective with a heat soak heater and higher temps are more useful for fast quick hits. You will also want to make sure you are drawing consistently, also grinding and packing consistently with the same weed ideally...

 

[Likun]

I will see if I can share a photo of my splinter settings in Arctic Fox for you, one thing I noticed, you were using a comma instead of a period for your numbers, I don't know if Arctic Fox is able to tell the same like I don't know if it matters but in USA at least it would read "3.0" not "3,0" so I don't know if that is a factor??

I also would recommend getting a cold reading of your resistance value that you can type in and lock there... It's likely .24 - .26 they all vary.

And the only number to adjust would then be the TCR value, up and down, but keep the temperature setting at one middle temperature so you can judge when it feels like that temperature... However not the thing to keep in mind is how as the heater becomes heat soaked it needs less preheat and that can affect performance, like using lower temps are more effective with a heat soak heater and higher temps are more useful for fast quick hits. You will also want to make sure you are drawing consistently, also grinding and packing consistently with the same weed ideally...

That'd be great!
For the komma concern, it seems like arctic fox recognizes and uses europe decimal separation here, I can't set it to point.
The coil resistance I get with a cold device is 0.243, I've locked it to that now.
Wattage is still at 36. I shouldn't go higher than that right?
I'll tryplaying around with the tcr value. Thing is that I can't (or wan't) vape that much as I probably should for figuring settings correctly . Only time will tell, have to be patient.

I like the LG HG2 but they're discontinued. I've been impressed with the vtc6 cells I got most recently. Maybe try 37W max. I've never needed to use the preheat settings so if that's useful for these affordable single cell mods someone else will have to chime in.

And yeah, that's the right approach. Jump right to TCR 165 if you want and see how that works at normal extraction temps from 180 to 210°. Try with your HG2 fully charged too and yeah get some new cells: with a single cell mod it's more important for it to proper high drain and not so run down from use.

I didn't know that either. I've ordered a pair of those sony now. I haven't set up the preheat setting yet. Are there that much performance difference between single and multi battery box mods? Sure makes sense that there's more power available... Somehow I only had the batterylife in mind.

 

[Shit Snacks]

That'd be great!
For the komma concern, it seems like arctic fox recognizes and uses europe decimal separation here, I can't set it to point.
The coil resistance I get with a cold device is 0.243, I've locked it to that now.
Wattage is still at 36. I shouldn't go higher than that right?
I'll tryplaying around with the tcr value. Thing is that I can't (or wan't) vape that much as I probably should for figuring settings correctly . Only time will tell, have to be patient.


I didn't know that either. I've ordered a pair of those sony now. I haven't set up the preheat setting yet. Are there that much performance difference between single and multi battery box mods? Sure makes sense that there's more power available... Somehow I only had the batterylife in mind.

Sorry bad news, looks like I only saved the profile from my Imp/Aster and not my SplinterV2/P80... May be able to see it if I plug the Splinter P80 into the computer, but it's packed away and I'm a little wary of risking it wiping my settings lol

That's good about the commas, figured that was just European standard decimal and that ArcticFox would be adjusting for you where you are...

That sounds like the correct cold resistance value, good call locking it!

I think you can raise your max wattage, with temp control it rarely actually needs to use max wattage, I think you can safely put it up to 40 or even 45, though 38 is fair if you want to be safer? Mine may actually be set at 35 though... or maybe 42? lol

And yes just try to leave it at 190°c temp, adjusting TCR up and down by 3 or 5 or 8, until it feels like 190°c to you based on flavor, vapor, and extraction. I use my SplinterV2 300°f - 410°f so temp control settings are extremely subjective, very relative to the vape and its configuration, then of course the user too...

I know it can be tough to test and configure, get very high doing so which makes it harder to be sure! That's why many people just stick to using wattage as intended.

Do not worry about the preheat setting, not useful for our purposes, leave it off/blank. Any preheat should just be done manually, holding the trigger down a few seconds before you start drawing.

More power doesn't matter, the P80 itself is capable of way more wattage than you will ever use for the splinter, so a dual battery mod is capable of more power but that doesn't matter because you're still not using that extra power... You do get double the amps, which is why two LG HG2 works better than one, and yes most importantly double the capacity. This is more important for the Splinter Z, as it's larger heater takes more energy and will burn through a single battery much quicker. I prefer the simplicity and size of single battery, perfect for the regular splinter in my experience.

 

[bossman]

That'd be great!
For the komma concern, it seems like arctic fox recognizes and uses europe decimal separation here, I can't set it to point.
The coil resistance I get with a cold device is 0.243, I've locked it to that now.
Wattage is still at 36. I shouldn't go higher than that right?
I'll tryplaying around with the tcr value. Thing is that I can't (or wan't) vape that much as I probably should for figuring settings correctly . Only time will tell, have to be patient.


I didn't know that either. I've ordered a pair of those sony now. I haven't set up the preheat setting yet. Are there that much performance difference between single and multi battery box mods? Sure makes sense that there's more power available... Somehow I only had the batterylife in mind.

I don't really fuck with single battery mods and my experience has led me to prefer two cell mods (where my hg2s do a great job).

@Shit Snacks' advice and those new cells should do the trick.

 

[BringMacarenaBack]

Haha I don't even consider them wooden, dynavap is mostly metal really (mine is all glass)

Wood vapes include:
Sticky Bricks (Triihouse were the originals and there is also Dreamwood now and others)
Vapman
MFLB
MistVape vapes
Rasta Buddha Tao (RBT) vapes
Lamart Tubo Tetra vapes
Underdog log vapes
Heat Island log vapes and others by Alan aka ToastyTop
E-Nano log vapes
Ed's Woodscents log vapes
Ditanium
Nomad from Morwood
Vapwood vapes
Tinymight
Firewood
I feel like there are still more than this...

@bossman I did not know the HG2 is discontinued, but yeah not ideal for a single battery mod because it's 18 amps instead of full 20...

@frosty234 you will see a little bit better performance if you use the lower capacity LG HE4 batteries because they are a true 20A (amps) as are Samsung 25R. The Sony battery is also tend to have high amp rating, and you can get a higher capacity...

I use the yellow LG HE4 batteries in my P80, I got three to four bowls, I can keep vaping until below 30% without any issue in both my Splinter V2 on P80 with Arctic Fox and my Tetra P80... Rarely do I use the brown LG HG2 batteries in these vapes, but I am thinking about getting Sony's for even better performance...

I will see if I can share a photo of my splinter settings in Arctic Fox for you, one thing I noticed, you were using a comma instead of a period for your numbers, I don't know if Arctic Fox is able to tell the same like I don't know if it matters but in USA at least it would read "3.0" not "3,0" so I don't know if that is a factor??

I also would recommend getting a cold reading of your resistance value that you can type in and lock there... It's likely .24 - .26 they all vary.

And the only number to adjust would then be the TCR value, up and down, but keep the temperature setting at one middle temperature so you can judge when it feels like that temperature... However not the thing to keep in mind is how as the heater becomes heat soaked it needs less preheat and that can affect performance, like using lower temps are more effective with a heat soak heater and higher temps are more useful for fast quick hits. You will also want to make sure you are drawing consistently, also grinding and packing consistently with the same weed ideally...

Bud, you have just englighten me. My life is a lie. LMAO.

 

[Likun]

Again big thanks to you guys! You helped me a lot. Six pages long thread just asking for a simple recommendation .
I'll have my fun tweaking my splinter the next days or even weeks. There's definitely more "work" with a vape like this than let's say the Arizer Solo e.g. which btw I'm considering selling now as my splinter gonna take it's place, even thought they're quite different styles.

 

[SquirrelMaster]

I'll throw Molicel 26A's into the mix of good 18650 cells to use. Here's a good list of tested batteries. https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/blog-entry/moochs-recommended-batteries.7593/
I wouldn't use anything less than an HG2/30Q/VTC6 in terms of rated power output and if you have any unregulated devices then the higher drain cells are a safer option.