Discontinued Ghost MV1

[jerri]

The mv1 when working properly is the best for me however I have not tried the tiny mite or tetra p80 the only vape I own that competes is the vivant rift it sucks to clean it and load but it will get you medicated REAL fast seems like nobody liked it and I got it for just 100 bucks

 

[DryBonesufo]

Lvl 3. 6 amazing clouds

 

[DryBonesufo]

Has anyone messed with the calibration aspect of the Ghost?

 

[SourLemon]

Has anyone messed with the calibration aspect of the Ghost?

I messed with it quite a bit and i'm almost convinced it's not doing anything or at least not what we think it should be doing. I stopped messing with it as i was achieving worse results on both green and red. It is worth expiramenting with though as it's so easily reversable and maybe your unit might somehow benefit from it.

 

[DryBonesufo]

One on the right was my original ghost. Below are pics of the defect. Some peeling was beginning on the back. Ghost sent me another unit. Unit still works fine! Looking for Rose Gold now

 

[cosimo]

Has anyone messed with the calibration aspect of the Ghost?

I did it.. mine was getting too hot and was getting overheated very easily. Haven't had overheating warnings in a while, but even after the calibration to lower temps, it still gets quite hot very fast. I've dropped it several times so I can't blame it.

 

[badbee]

Ghost sent me another unit

I'm always confused when people talk about GhostVapes like they were some kind of scam. They had the best customer service and replacement policy of any company out there as far as I can tell. My wife's died after two years and they replaced it no questions asked. Luckily that was a few weeks before they went under. They certainly had some design and quality control issues, but I didn't ever see them operating in bad faith.

They just tried and failed, it happens.

 

[DryBonesufo]

I'm always confused when people talk about GhostVapes like they were some kind of scam. They had the best customer service and replacement policy of any company out there as far as I can tell. My wife's died after two years and they replaced it no questions asked. Luckily that was a few weeks before they went under. They certainly had some design and quality control issues, but I didn't ever see them operating in bad faith.

They just tried and failed, it happens.

The customer service was awesome. Awesome

 

[Kimosabe]

I posted on the old site that I was able to fix my Stealth door latch problem. I had a good several years use without problems, then dropped it, breaking off part of the latch plastic. I initially glued the plastic back on, but it eventually failed again. I then searched for a a more permanent solution, and am happy to have found one. If you look at the pictures posted on the previous page, the hinged latch part is the last few photos I believe. In any event, the latch itself is comprised of two plastic lines to which a solid angled piece is molded. It is that solid angled piece that breaks or wears off after time.

This time, I used a 1/32 drill bit that fits into the channel between the two plastic lines, as close to the edge as possible, so the angle is consistent with that of the latch. I then drilled through the latch door. (It is easier if you remove the door from the MV1 first). Then you but a size 3 x 5/8 wood screw and screw it part way into the hole. You need to check to find the correct depth to hold the crucible holder closed, but still allow it to open. I needed to drill a little through the hole into the crucible holder to allow greater depth of the screw. For that you will want the latch back on the MV1. A photo shows the final solution. The screw not only holds the crucible door closed, but it makes for a good lever to hold the latch open for opening and closing. The parts cost me .50 at a hardware store. I probably could get by with a size 3 x 3/8, or even 3 x 1/4, but I like the extra amount to use as a lever,

If anyone no longer wants their Ghost MV1 because of the latch problem, I am more than happy to take them off your hands to use for parts. I still love this vape and intend to use it until I find something better. Went back to my Haze Dual Chamber on the night it broke. As much as I loved that Haze the Ghost puts it to shame.

Good luck.

THE DOOR:
Absolutely, unquestionably a total waste of time to deal with the latch; REMOVE THE SPRING. there is more than enough friction between the green silicone rubber inserts above and below the closed crucible door to make the latching mechanism superfluous. You can use your fingernail to easily open the door, instead of dealing with the Achilles heal of this machine. I previously posted pictures of my broken stealth latch (where is the 'plastic' - it is all powdered metal molded on the latch ( the true problem, too weak for intended service). Bottom line: they should have uncomplicated the latch mech early on. Many vapes rely on silicone polymer interference fit. The door should have been cast with a flip-open lever and the spring tension should have been seriously reduced. The latch returns would have been nil, the outrageous MSRP could have been maintained with continued advertising and reviews and the outcome would have been - well, one never knows, do one?

No prob. BTW, I just tested... If i stay at red temps, I get a couple less hits than if i started at lower temps... huh, had not noticed that.
Anyhow, make sure your are not unintentionally over-packing the crucible or packing it in a way in which airflow is restricted. Someone pointed out to me that i was filling with more herb than last time we had met and I really wasn't aware of it, so i guess it could have happened to you too.

get yourself a 0.001 reading scale and put 1.30g in the crucible of medium-fine ground herb Push the crucible lid down to seat, pllace in MV1. Step up in temp from 1 yellow to 2 red with 6 draws (2 0n 2 x red). If you set the two reds to 428F you will have extracted most, not all, THC.
Put that AVB in a Dynavap and heat 3 seconds past the second click.
Now, friends, you are well toasted.

 

[Stu]

This thread is now re-opened and has been merged with content from NewFC (if applicable). Read more about it here.

 

[SourLemon]

THE DOOR:
Absolutely, unquestionably a total waste of time to deal with the latch; REMOVE THE SPRING. there is more than enough friction between the green silicone rubber inserts above and below the closed crucible door to make the latching mechanism superfluous. You can use your fingernail to easily open the door, instead of dealing with the Achilles heal of this machine. I previously posted pictures of my broken stealth latch (where is the 'plastic' - it is all powdered metal molded on the latch ( the true problem, too weak for intended service). Bottom line: they should have uncomplicated the latch mech early on. Many vapes rely on silicone polymer interference fit. The door should have been cast with a flip-open lever and the spring tension should have been seriously reduced. The latch returns would have been nil, the outrageous MSRP could have been maintained with continued advertising and reviews and the outcome would have been - well, one never knows, do one?


get yourself a 0.001 reading scale and put 1.30g in the crucible of medium-fine ground herb Push the crucible lid down to seat, pllace in MV1. Step up in temp from 1 yellow to 2 red with 6 draws (2 0n 2 x red). If you set the two reds to 428F you will have extracted most, not all, THC.
Put that AVB in a Dynavap and heat 3 seconds past the second click.
Now, friends, you are well toasted.

How do you remove the metal spring? I opened up my ghost yesterday to try save it as my door will not stay closed now as the plastic tab has 'rounded over' and doesn't hold the door closed. I think if i remove the spring it should allow me to use the ghost without holding the door shut but it is such a nightmare to do any work on, opening it up and putting back together alone takes me like 30 minutes.

 

[Summer]

^^ Going through the crucible door, can you use a tool to flatten the concave spring by pushing it back so as to move it out of the way?

 

[SourLemon]

^^ Going through the crucible door, can you use a tool to flatten the concave spring by pushing it back so as to move it out of the way?

I have tried just deforming the spring but this didn't seem to work. The spring is too stiff and also too close to the back of the device to do this.

 

[Baron23]

get yourself a 0.001 reading scale and put 1.30g in the crucible

Bet you wanted that decimal place to be one digit to the left, yeah? :-)

 

[Kimosabe]

yes, I stand corrected, that is what you will see displayed on the scale, what's going on inside to ensure accurate readings not withstanding.
Regarding the spring - you are likely not "Walling away" on that spring steel. I never said this was going to be easy. you need the right tools. needlenose pliers, hemostats, small hammer, drift pin... grab the spring with needlenose pliers on teh free end. Pull it toward you until it bends enough to almost leave the unit and gently hammer it back.
Use the force - it can be done. The spring will fatigue enough to be puhed BEHIND the top molded elastomeric green plastic

 

[BangBoomBang]

I bought a Ghost MV1 from 01/2020 on eBay yesterday, when I heard, they ended business. I want a spare one in case the first one breaks in any way.

So sad to hear, they ran out of business.

Are there any devices on the market which are comparable to the MV1 in quality and using convection instead of conduction?

I already have a Firefly 2+, which is also phenomenal.

 

[acstorfer]

I did it.. mine was getting too hot and was getting overheated very easily. Haven't had overheating warnings in a while, but even after the calibration to lower temps, it still gets quite hot very fast. I've dropped it several times so I can't blame it.

The exact same thing happened to me. Exactly the same thing. Ghost replaced it and I haven’t messed with that calibration deal again.

 

[MinnBobber]

I bought a Ghost MV1 from 01/2020 on eBay yesterday, when I heard, they ended business. I want a spare one in case the first one breaks in any way.

So sad to hear, they ran out of business.

Are there any devices on the market which are comparable to the MV1 in quality and using convection instead of conduction?

I already have a Firefly 2+, which is also phenomenal.

I will pm you as I bought extras to keep my Ghost kicking well into the future.
I have new in box satin silver and new in box black chrome ( not the stealth black which has latch issues).
Also have new accessories like fast charger, crucible dispenser, battery.
MinnBobber

 

[SourLemon]

So regarding removing the spring,
I have managed to fully dissaseble the unit and remove the spring safely, it is simply glued on with hot glue so it wasn't too difficult although re-assembly was a little bit of a ballache. I also removed the 'chamber open' safety because it always annoyed me. I have taken pictures of the process and also got a good look at the heater and was able to clean it properly finally. If anyone wants them let me know and ill post them on here.

 

[LesPlenty]

ill post them on here.

Yes, please!

I want a spare one

GHOST MV1 Vaporizer

ABOUT THE GHOST MV1 GHOST is disrupting the vape industry with the addition of the iconic MV1 vaporizer. Constructed from lightweight alloy, the Ghost MV1 boasts an ergonomic design and tactile outer casing. This revolutionary vaporizer features a powerful 2600mAh battery, and convenient GHOST...

www.vapor.com

Complete units and spares are slowly drying up. I have already broken the usb charge port on my battery and now they are even getting scarce at the ridiculous price points.

 

[Jill NYC]

@LesPlenty - good to see you around! There’s no place like home.

 

[bgrpph]

Last month ordered a Ghost MV1 black chrome from Cream City vapes -$115 as a spare- Took a few weeks for them to ship- looks like a new sealed unit. Glad i did as my other Black Chrome MV1 just gave it up- doesn't heat up anymore- when I hit vape button (on any temp setting) the lights go back & forth as normal for a second but instead of heating up the middle light turns red & it stops . Tired diff battery, etc- just doesn't work any more. I've the door latch issue on my Stealth unit & have had it apart few weeks ago to see what gives- didn't repair anything. Now thinking maybe i'll take guts out of stealth & see if i can put them in black chrome- or take latch from chrome & see if i can get it in the stealth or just take out spring as posted previously.

Just got a Tiny Might today(my 1st stem vape) & only used it once so far- 1st two hits on #5 were nice & tasty-

 

[Kimosabe]

Last month ordered a Ghost MV1 black chrome from Cream City vapes -$115 as a spare- Took a few weeks for them to ship- looks like a new sealed unit. Glad i did as my other Black Chrome MV1 just gave it up- doesn't heat up anymore- when I hit vape button (on any temp setting) the lights go back & forth as normal for a second but instead of heating up the middle light turns red & it stops . Tired diff battery, etc- just doesn't work any more. I've the door latch issue on my Stealth unit & have had it apart few weeks ago to see what gives- didn't repair anything. Now thinking maybe i'll take guts out of stealth & see if i can put them in black chrome- or take latch from chrome & see if i can get it in the stealth or just take out spring as posted previously.

Just got a Tiny Might today(my 1st stem vape) & only used it once so far- 1st two hits on #5 were nice & tasty-

You do not need the latch at all, If you cannot bend the spring behind the top green molded elastomer gasket above the crucible, just take it to someone who is the least bit handy with a ball peen hammer, drift pin and needle-nose pliers. ANY vape hobbyist or jeweler can do this for you. Whoever came up with that sunk this company. A chain is only as strong as its weakest link. No amount of hot swapping defective goods awaiting a re-design from China could save a manufacturer, IMHO.

My bottom line is use it until the latch breaks then get that spring bent into the unit. Just because you can't does not mean a mechanic cannot.
Autobody, machine-shop, toolmaker, Jeweler + $20 and you will not believe the results. Heck, you could probably flag down a cab with a tire iron!
Your thumb will thank you and you will breathe new life into The Machine.

Disclaimer: Listen, if you are spastic, mentally compromised or HAF, maybe hold off. I don't want you to hurt yourself and take no responsibility for your clumsiness.
This operation took me 10 minutes, tops. I did it with the tools mentioned. Remove your spring for years of enjoyment, I say.

 

[Summer]

If anyone wants them let me know and ill post them on here.

I do!

 

[SourLemon]

These aren't great but i didn't think to take better ones at the time. Dissasebly is pretty easy with basically only the external screws needing to be removed, everything else that you'd need to remove is held on with friction. Putting the thing back together is as i said before a massive ballache but it's doable.

I just pried up the spring up and the only thing that was holding it in was some hot glue:

Here's the heater with the top ceramic piece still on:

Here's a better view of the heater with the top ceramic piece off: