Discontinued ThermoVape Revolution for concentrates

[jpdnkstr]

it was havealight, iirc

Oil seems to condense on the bottom of my Pure-Flow, or standard mouthpiece, directly inserted into the DART Core. I don't think it matters whatever is inserted into the CORE is going to get condensation.

My suggestion, if your worried about clogging the Dart loader air holes, is to eliminate it altogether, and go with the PTFE TRU-FLOW!(now the oil is cooling and condensing in your mouth instead of those tiny holes) You're not gonna clog that without gettin' errrl mouth first!

I'm waiting on my Smooth-Flow to arrive, and I'll try that or run the PTFE UFO! We shall see!

 

[havealight101]

Yes, it still clogs eventually, but maybe slower?? I don't know, I have a problem with modding vapes so soon that I quickly forget how they originally worked. I do think what was going to condense on the dart tip, now condenses on the side walls and melts back down. More so, I didn't like sticking the dirty tip in my clean jar of meds, and at that point, it just got in my way because I use a 3" TI dabber. Without the tip it is more like a UFO that can have any mouthpiece, than a Dart. In the end , do it at your own risk, its $9.99 to replace. Best of luck.

Elsewhere... Tim replaced my Darts the day they got there, thanks Tim. He opened them up, then reiterated the fact that 20/20 burns are an important part of cleaning. I wish more was learned, but I guess there is only so much you can tell about the usage by looking in the guts of the dead ones. Either way, I'm happy to have them back, thanks again.

 

[UpUpandAway]

I received my dart today from the good ppl at tet. This thing kicks ass!

I threw in a bb-sized pellet of some Bruce Banner Budder, let it warm up for 15 mississippis, and then took a long, slow draw. We have lift-off!

I also got the glass adapter and some extra moutpieces but am having trouble with the connection.

Neither the mouthpieces nor the adapter will fit into the end of the dart because the o-rings are a little too fat. I tried to force it in, but no dice.

The mouthpiece that came with the dart fits fine, but I noticed that its o-ring is a little thinner than the other o-rings.

Any suggestions on how I can remedy this situation? Should I just shove it in really hard? Should I be taking out the dart loader entirely? I wanna give this thing a spin in my bub.

 

[jpdnkstr]

I received my dart today from the good ppl at tet. This thing kicks ass!

I threw in a bb-sized pellet of some Bruce Banner Budder, let it warm up for 15 mississippis, and then took a long, slow draw. We have lift-off!

I also got the glass adapter and some extra moutpieces but am having trouble with the connection.

Neither the mouthpieces nor the adapter will fit into the end of the dart because the o-rings are a little too fat. I tried to force it in, but no dice.

The mouthpiece that came with the dart fits fine, but I noticed that its o-ring is a little thinner than the other o-rings.

Any suggestions on how I can remedy this situation? Should I just shove it in really hard? Should I be taking out the dart loader entirely? I wanna give this thing a spin in my bub.

I also have the water adapter(delrin) for REV and I remove the dart loader, and it fits my dart core, but I have an issue with the 18.8mm glass connection...... doesnt fit in properly!(Ben Wilson 6Arm) I have to use a 18 to 14 GonG reducer to properly use it. I am considering contacting TV about this because it kinda sits on my shelf, unlike the rest of my TV stuff!

 

[SameOldTim]

Hey guys so we have done some long term in house testing aswell as a few customers doing testing on Ultra Sonic Cleaners.

At this point we have to advice to NOT use Ultrasonic Cleaners. We have linked the use of ultrasonic cleaners to early failure of our Revolution cores. This also applies to our AVA atomizers as they have a very similar construction to the Revolutions.

Im terribly sorry for those of you who like to use one, But please avoid it at all costs to make sure you get a long life out of your Revolutions.

Cheers,

Tim

 

[DreamTime]

^^ good to know... "Hey Honey. Look at this really nice ultra sonic jewelry cleaner I just bought you"


While we are on the topic of bad things to do to your Rev...

I have found that with really sticky full melt hash even repeated heating and forcing ISO through a syringe doesn't always completely clean it. What I have done a couple of times is briefly hit the ceramic surface with a pin point butane torch. I've found that 5 seconds of torching the ceramic completely burns off any remaining residue and makes the ISO cleaning much more effective.

Is there anything in the Rev core that would be adversely affected by exposing the ceramic to higher temps for a few seconds?

 

[jpdnkstr]

Hey guys so we have done some long term in house testing aswell as a few customers doing testing on Ultra Sonic Cleaners.

At this point we have to advice to NOT use Ultrasonic Cleaners. We have linked the use of ultrasonic cleaners to early failure of our Revolution cores. This also applies to our AVA atomizers as they have a very similar construction to the Revolutions.

Im terribly sorry for those of you who like to use one, But please avoid it at all costs to make sure you get a long life out of your Revolutions.

Cheers,

Tim

My wife's not going to be happy to hear that Tim! I was seconds away from buying one.... not so sure now!

I bet the ultrasonic loosens the contacts on the coil?!

 

[OF]

I bet the ultrasonic loosens the contacts on the coil?!

Actually I understand it's breaks in the wire itself, either right at the (solid) connection to the center pin or side wall, or right at the junction with the coil support (where the stresses concentrate).

The actual contacts are carefully controlled 'metal displacement crimps', pretty tough customers. Nothing comes loose, the wire breaks cleanly. It just gets flexed too much, it's not a good spring really.

I'm guessing this is also what is behind the mysterious multiple core failure clusters 'overseas'. As I understand it two guys in remote places have had multiple failures (one two, the other 3???), I'm thinking it might be vibration in transit?

For now, it seems using the Ultrasonic cleaner is not good advice for these guys......

OF

 

[TonyBlaze]

I've had my Dart for a little over month now and loving it. Took it to the fair last night was getting baked on the ferris wheel great times. Today I noticed the the top rim of the core was flared out and has small cracks along the rim. Has this happen to any one? So now the dart loading tool sits loose in core part and falls out easily. Does anyone know if this would covered by the warranty

 

[OF]

Today I noticed the the top rim of the core was flared out and has small cracks along the rim. Has this happen to any one? So now the dart loading tool sits loose in core part and falls out easily. Does anyone know if this would covered by the warranty

You're talking about the metal of the tube where the DART plugs in? It's thin brass under the plating (which is what I assume is cracked, Nickle doesn't bend all that well.....). It's possible, but should not happen. I have to wonder if the DART itself isn't oversize a bit and causing it?

I'm sure it's covered under warranty, I'd drop TV a note on the matter and see how they want to handle it.

You should be careful to insert and remove the DART straight, of course, which may also be causing it? Pulling to one side, for example, could do this over time I'd think. It's a tight fit in there, you've actually got some pretty 'good leverage'.

Good luck.

OF

 

[TonyBlaze]

Ya I'm really careful when putting in and taking out the dart but after I do an ISO soak and clean its kind of hard to push in

Ya I was planning on sending an email just wondering if anyone had a similar experience

 

[jpdnkstr]

Ya I'm really careful when putting in and taking out the dart but after I do an ISO soak and clean its kind of hard to push in

Ya I was planning on sending an email just wondering if anyone had a similar experience

I think the ISO swells the o-ring, I'm having the same issue, not bad though, and it seems to go in easier after you get it lubed up again!

 

[shredhead]

Wondering how much smaller in size the 3.7V is compared to the 6V. really wanting to order one but i need it to be really discreet.

 

[Nick Again]

Wondering how much smaller in size the 3.7V is compared to the 6V. really wanting to order one but i need it to be really discreet.

The fourth picture in the slideshow near the top of the page shows an Ultralite next to an "UltraMax". The next picture shows it next to a cigarette.
http://thermovape.com/collections/e-liquid-vaporizers/products/alpha-ultralite#4
The middle sized Ultra page has similar pictures. You get a bit shorter in length but a lot smaller in diameter as you go from the 17670 (about 70mm long) to the 14500 (about 50mm or just over two inches) to the 10440 (about 44mm) from just the battery. The rest of the device, not including any cartridge or atty etc. will scale in size about the same.

Oh yeah, and all three models can run "LV". The Ultralite can't run "SV" and we haven't heard whether the Ultra supports SV for anything besides an AVA.

-NDA

 

[shredhead]

okay thanks for clearing that up. now does the LV rev with an LV dart hit comparable to the 6v? or is it a big difference in battery life and vapor production?

 

[jpdnkstr]

okay thanks for clearing that up. now does the LV rev with an LV dart hit comparable to the 6v? or is it a big difference in battery life and vapor production?

The REV and DART are different attachments, cannot run both at same time. I have both in LV and SV and find little difference(I may be preferring LV!)

For what it's worth, my Ultra runs my LV DART like a locomotive!(AW IMR14500)

EDIT: On another note...is anyone running SV REV or DART on Persei at 7.4v, or is this going to burn up the heating core?

Perseid meteor shower tonight!

 

[Pipes]

.is anyone running SV REV or DART on Persei at 7.4v, or is this going to burn up the heating core?

Perseid meteor shower tonight!

In my findings 7.4 volts will SEEM to work all too well. In fact you would be on the threshold of deforming the heating element. Fresh off charger new batteries at 7.4 would likely be enough to push over the edge if left on for any length of time. And once elements are deformed their life span will be terminal.
So the short answer would be no, don't do it.

Pipes

 

[OF]

Fresh off charger new batteries at 7.4 would likely be enough to push over the edge if left on for any length of time. And once elements are deformed their life span will be terminal.
So the short answer would be no, don't do it.

There will be some losses in Persei, of course, but 'back of the envelope calculations' show the wisdom of Pipe's warning. At 'nominal' voltage, 7.4 Volts, we're talking about a 50% increase in power. Freshly charged you'll get 8.4 Volts....which doubles the power the unit was designed for......

Had 'a little more power' been a good idea, it would have been designed in. I tested five different powers of LV Revolutions for TV a while back as part of the design of that product. I was not the only tester, of course, but I understand we all basically came to the same conclusion WRT to power, there is a 'sweet spot' you want to hit. It was not the most powerful in the series. It's a complex thing, but is well worked out IMO.

Yup, not a good plan.

OF

 

[shredhead]

okay so i think im gunna go with a 3.7V kit with a dart cart and then get 3 extra batteries for it. Do you guys think this is a good combo for quick dabs throughout the day?

 

[UpUpandAway]

The only reason not to get the 3.7v version is if you plan to get a T1, which isn't available in an LV version. Otherwise, I think you'll be really happy with it.

I have an LV dart heatIng core on an Ultralite. That thing hits like a champ and is super stealth! I haven't tried the LV dart on the T1 power handle, but I'm guessing that it has more battery life than the Ultralite? Someone else can confirm whether this is the case? I love the fact that the LV models use only 1 battery vs. the 2 of the SV models.

I removed the dart loader and attached the mouthpiece directly onto the heating core. When I used oil on the dart loader, the oil would wick up the pointed stem and into the air holes. I think some other members have mentioned this. Removing the loader also makes it a little more compact.

Using it as a simple top loader is pretty easy with solid concentrates. However, it's harder to get sticky/gooey concentrates onto the ceramic disc. For that reason, I'm thinking about getting the window loader. Just something else for you to consider...

 

[shredhead]

i usually work with solid budder and i'm getting it as a oil vape. maybe i should get a pure or smooth flow for ontop the dart??? if your saying i dont even reallly need the dart part of the cart??

 

[jpdnkstr]

i usually work with solid budder and i'm getting it as a oil vape. maybe i should get a pure or smooth flow for ontop the dart??? if your saying i dont even reallly need the dart part of the cart??

Yuup, I run LV DART heating core with either a Pure-flow on top, or straight Drip tip(a little warm, but super stealth om my Ultra!) The dart loading tool is not necessary for operation, but is nice to have for certain occasions, I find myself loading with it occasionaly.

 

[SameOldTim]

^^ good to know... "Hey Honey. Look at this really nice ultra sonic jewelry cleaner I just bought you"


While we are on the topic of bad things to do to your Rev...

I have found that with really sticky full melt hash even repeated heating and forcing ISO through a syringe doesn't always completely clean it. What I have done a couple of times is briefly hit the ceramic surface with a pin point butane torch. I've found that 5 seconds of torching the ceramic completely burns off any remaining residue and makes the ISO cleaning much more effective.

Is there anything in the Rev core that would be adversely affected by exposing the ceramic to higher temps for a few seconds?

Sorry to burst your bubble....

That should be totally fine! The part to be most worried about is the teflon insulator in the base. When i prototype my personal Rev core Ill torch both ceramics and they come back nearly perfect white!! But that involves taking the whole thing apart...

The REV and DART are different attachments, cannot run both at same time. I have both in LV and SV and find little difference(I may be preferring LV!)

For what it's worth, my Ultra runs my LV DART like a locomotive!(AW IMR14500)

EDIT: On another note...is anyone running SV REV or DART on Persei at 7.4v, or is this going to burn up the heating core?

Perseid meteor shower tonight!

The SV Rev will withstand 7.4V and even greater BUT!!!!! You must make sure your core is full of concentrate so that it doesnt burn out, it is crutial with higher power that the coil makes contact with a fluid (this is similar to us running an AVA-SR at 6V, must make sure the fluid is around the coil to prevent it from burning out)

I saw about 10 meteors the other night! pretty cool stuff!

Cheers,

Tim

 

[DreamTime]

Sorry to burst your bubble....

That should be totally fine! The part to be most worried about is the teflon insulator in the base. When i prototype my personal Rev core Ill torch both ceramics and they come back nearly perfect white!! But that involves taking the whole thing apart...

WooHoo! Time to seriously clean my Rev

 

[OF]

WooHoo! Time to seriously clean my Rev

Don't overlook the "But that involves taking the whole thing apart..." part. You're not doing that, right? You need a disassembly tool to do that, and a press and some dies to reassemble it (I've watched it happen when Tim rebuilt one of my prototypes with a different heater coil). He torches the two ceramic pieces alone, each held in a clamp in the flame. Then puts it back together. Get the brass body too hot and you'll cook that PTFE piece and it's captive (won't come out), which will wreck it all.

OF