Discontinued Thermovape Cera

NoName

Well-Known Member
What can I say? I just ran the test I described. I have two cores that draw normally with the holes covered (one needs clearing first) and we all know the cart doesn't work right until you clear the plugged ports (or so we believe at least).

To be sure I just checked the cores again. The more full one is now much restricted but it does draw cold....my assumption is it's not completely plugged again this time? Different than before the test. The lesser filled one is quite free (for an oil cart).

Anything is possible, of course (or nearly so). Perhaps others can check theirs and let us know?

Again, any answer to my bevel question? I think it points to intent.

Thanks.

OF

Good morning OF/ Jcat:

I've just checked my TI EO Cart and it looks and 'behaves' like OF's EO cart. That is, if I cover up the four 'set-screws' I can still draw through the cart (I currently have around .25g loaded). Working like a champ!

Jcat: sympathies sir! I suppose it's entirely possible that customs got their sticky little fingers on your cart. Might be time for TET to have a look? Hope you get it sorted out quickly.

NN
 
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JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Good morning OF/ Jcat:

I've just checked my TI EO Cart and it looks and 'behaves' like OF's EO cart. That is, if I cover up the four 'set-screws' I can still draw through the cart (I currently have around .25g loaded). Working like a champ!

Jcat: sympathies sir! I suppose it's entirely possible that customs got their sticky little fingers on your cart. Might be time for TET to have a look? Hope you get it sorted out quickly.

NN
Yeah ... I just want to avoid shipping it back if possible ... 1 week there ... 1 week back (I'm not only in Canada .... I'm in the middle of nowhere :lol:). Not to mention shipping costs ... I figure the more info I have to help troubleshoot the more likely I'm able to get to a quick and easy resolution (hopefully self-diagnosis/repair with TET's approval so as to avoid shipping costs and delays)

Edit: Thanks everyone by the way for all of your help!
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Hi OF,

Here's a pic ... I'm pretty sure the threaded connector is jammed all the way into the body of the core and no air is getting through ... here's a pic (I had suggested that this might have happened to Zeki based on my initial air flow test prior to loading):

Howdy. Nice picture. If you look just above the threads there's a shoulder that's part of the same metal? Air enters just above that shoulder, past the bevel we can't see in the core body and through the four holes in the 'cup' that have the (filled by screws) threaded holes. Above that is a ring of smaller holes used to anchor the various coils that are built for this one piece. The cup part continues up a bit more, basically covering the bottom half of the heater.

In a LL core, there's a SS sleeve ("heat shield") pressed over the cup part covering the top row of holes. Not so in the oil cart since the wall of the body is right there anyway. This part means that the air has to come in below the heater (as it does with LL obviously) or the bottom half of the core would not 'get swept' clear of vapor. Oil trapped there would basically cook.

What does everyone think? Is it possible that they took the core apart in Customs? ...

Wow! Bummer. I missed this part of the puzzle. I'm not sure why they might open it up, but if they did I sure don't think you should mess with it further. That's a fiddly little rascal inside, not something the average customs guy is going to excel at. I'd contact TV, I bet they will happily trade you. Sorry to recommend this part, but if you haven't actually filled it yet you might consider not doing so? It'll be a lot easier to return if you don't..... For sure if it's dry and doesn't pull with the holes blocked it's not going to work right for you.

Good luck. IMO too much strange karma around it.

Yeah ... I just want to avoid shipping it back if possible ... 1 week there ... 1 week back (I'm not only in Canada .... I'm in the middle of nowhere :lol:). Not to mention shipping costs ... I figure the more info I have to help troubleshoot the more likely I'm able to get to a quick and easy resolution (hopefully self-diagnosis/repair with TET's approval so as to avoid shipping costs and delays)

Edit: Thanks everyone by the way for all of your help!

That's understood. But I know those guys, I bet if you told them what happened they'd get the replacement started your way toot sweet. Cores they have.....

I understand the costs and delays, but IMO opening the conversation ASAP with them improves both of those potentially?

You're welcome. Sorry it's not as easy as 'turn it around'. Trust me though, you're really gonna love it when it's right.

OF
 
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scottfree

Active Member
Just got my Cera EO and am loving it! Any tips for making fresh as new when cleaning? How much vapor are people getting with the eliquid cart? Mine is all throat hit and very wispy vapor.
 

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
I talked to Zeki on the phone about my issues, and he suggested I try removing one of the set screws (I'm sure my eagerness to troubleshoot/resolve remotely rather than ship it back doesn't hurt :lol:).

So off I went to Canadian Tire, and for $25 got a little mini screwdriver set with all kinds of bits, a magnifying glass, and most importantly, the one $1-$2 bit that I needed! Took out one set screw, gave it a shot, and it ran like a champ! (Now I can draw air through it! ... taste is much better now as well as the vapor is not "stewing" in there due to my inability to draw it out I believe.)

Now I'm looking at ordering some nice Taffy from a dispensary ... seeing if I can get a break on the price at all as it's $60/gram and I'd like to get at least a few grams of some real nice stuff ... the oil I have now is ok but I'd like some real quality concentrates and it seems the cost of anything of decent quality is $30/half-gram and up.
 

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Just got my EO and am loving it! Any tips for making fresh as new when cleaning?
I'd do repeated ISO soak/rinse cycles until the ISO is remaining mostly clean then do a 5-10 minute boil finished off by drying in the toaster oven or oven at 175F-200F or so.
 
JCat,

OF

Well-Known Member
Took out one set screw, gave it a shot, and it ran like a champ! (Now I can draw air through it! ... taste is much better now as well as the vapor is not "stewing" in there due to my inability to draw it out I believe.)

There's no substitute for success, of course, but I'm pretty sure half that core is still "stewing" away, being below the new vent hole. I bet there's now no way to pull enough of a vacuum to clear the vents at the bottom?

Anyway, if you're happy so am I. Enjoy it.

OF
 
OF,

ThermoCarloTV

Thermo Essence Technologies
Company Rep
I talked to Zeki on the phone about my issues, and he suggested I try removing one of the set screws (I'm sure my eagerness to troubleshoot/resolve remotely rather than ship it back doesn't hurt :lol:).
.

JCat,

I am extremely happy that Zeki was able to help you troubleshoot and remedy your situation. However there is something I need to point out.

By removing the set screws and\or disassembling your core without our consent, you are voiding your Cera's warranty. We strongly advise everyone not to attempt to disassemble the core by removing the set screws or in any other fashion, without getting written consent from Thermo-Essence Technologies (by e-mail, hand-written, fax or any other method of written, legible communication.

It is best practice to contact us before attempting ANY kind of repair done at home or any other unauthorized repair centers.

Thanks, everyone!
 

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
JCat,

I am extremely happy that Zeki was able to help you troubleshoot and remedy your situation. However there is something I need to point out.

By removing the set screws and\or disassembling your core without our consent, you are voiding your Cera's warranty. We strongly advise everyone not to attempt to disassemble the core by removing the set screws or in any other fashion, without getting written consent from Thermo-Essence Technologies (by e-mail, hand-written, fax or any other method of written, legible communication.

It is best practice to contact us before attempting ANY kind of repair done at home or any other unauthorized repair centers.

Thanks, everyone!
Hi Carlo,

Sorry if I lead anyone to believe that they should "try this at home" ... I did not make any attempts to alter/modify/loosen etc without first getting consent/advice to do so from Zeki (I should have perhaps gotten it in an e-mail before hand as you indicated, so as to make sure there was no confusion, but I got it after the fact anyways :)) It's worth noting that this was attempted in order to avoid shipping delays and costs being that I'm quite far away.

There's no substitute for success, of course, but I'm pretty sure half that core is still "stewing" away, being below the new vent hole. I bet there's now no way to pull enough of a vacuum to clear the vents at the bottom?

Anyway, if you're happy so am I. Enjoy it.

OF
Hi OF ... it doesn't seem overloaded ... I don't actually think it's plugged ... I can leave the core upside down, sideways, etc and nothing comes out even after a prolonged time ... there is just no air getting to the vent holes from below the core body so by removing a set screw that lets air in around the main shaft (where the vents are located from my observations of my LL), and thus lets air in all the vents I would guess.

Air only came through the set screws into the vents initially, so as the core got heated/"seasoned" the set screw threads let less air through and clogged completely. There is no evidence of clogging or leaking or anything and the taste is good now ... if anything I'll need to load more soon (I only did add 0.3g of oil to it total so far) ... my theory is that since the set screws are required to hold the shaft in the core body, there must be some space between the core body and the shaft so by removing one screw air should be able to get into all the vents ...?
 
JCat,

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
I know you're happy to have it working.

I know you're happy that you were able to "fix" it yourself.

I know you really don't want to deal with not having it for a week or two.


If it were me, I'd heed OF's note of caution, bite the bullet, and send it back to TET to have it made right. And have them triple wrap it in bubble wrap.

My :2c:

And if you ever have the urge to splurge, I recommend highly Pure Gold concentrate. It retails for $40 a half gram, and can be found for $30 a half gram.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
my theory is that since the set screws are required to hold the shaft in the core body, there must be some space between the core body and the shaft so by removing one screw air should be able to get into all the vents ...?

No. If the vents are plugged air getting in the screw isn't going to magically go through them now, something else is going on......nobody else has to remove a screw to get it to draw.

Yes, there's a gap there (or you couldn't build it). It's very small and no doubt pretty well sealed with oil. What you did was open up a hole straight through to the core. You can stick a needle in that hole and break the ceramic ring behind it (second one up I think?). The vents are not involved which is why I suggested above that there is no longer a way to clear them. You just put an open carb hole in the side of a WP, you can't expect the bowl to draw any more if you can follow that analogy?

Still, if you're happy with it.......

OF
 
OF,

Sonics420

Well-Known Member
Dabbing into the Cera is great, I probably dabbed .2 into the cart and melted it in properly.. Its lasted me the rest of my work day and has kept me well medicated, maybe even over medicated at some point. Once that little ceramic pad looks a bit dry I can just dab[or drop if you can handle the wax] more and go on with my day.. It would be another 3-4 hours until I have to dab more if I use it heavily.. Really liking the efficiency of the Cera with my oils.

The Cera is pretty stealthy, I've been hitting it without anyone knowing or smelling.. I can operate it with my middle finger on the button.. I wish they can come up with something for the latching switch or safety button operation, it would be great to use with the EO also if you pay attention and don't leave your switch on.

I also like how you can wipe down the Cera with tissue paper while its hot and its look brand new again, this is how I keep my mouthpiece and cap clean.
 
I'd try scrubbing it with a plastic scrubber in the sink, I had good luck with that getting rid of some metal scuff marks.

Otherwise, I say torch the sucker! Nuke it until it glows. That Zirconia is a lot tougher than most anything on it.



Thanks for the kind words, but trust me it's far from the least you can do....on the other side of taking it for granted (or one's entitlement) there's the whole realm of attacks to choose from. I vastly prefer either of the other two......as I'm sure you understand.

I agree, you've made a first rate choice, kinda spoiled yourself in that way. I know what you mean about the Amazon deal, just today I got my backup spares for my backup spares I got last week. I too saw those soon to be gone little rascals at half the price I paid a little while back and figuring they have very long shelf life and it's only money..... I think I have enough for now at least.

And yes, you can charge two different types with that charger. Unlike some others, those are to completely independent channels (a real clue there is some with two slots have only one LED????).


OF

Took the mouth piece apart and torched the top. Slight crack now from the inside and outside, but barely noticeable. Damn I just want it to look spotless! :ko:
 
Highnstein,

OF

Well-Known Member
Took the mouth piece apart and torched the top. Slight crack now from the inside and outside, but barely noticeable. Damn I just want it to look spotless! :ko:

As long as it's just cosmetic I wouldn't worry, but I understand some guys obsess over flaws, going nuts without intervention. IMO you're talking about a 'defect in materials or workmanship' here, TVs standards are very high I'm betting they'll replace it if you ask real nice......

Hey, should that be '.....workpersonship'?

Best wishes.

OF
 
OF,
As long as it's just cosmetic I wouldn't worry, but I understand some guys obsess over flaws, going nuts without intervention. IMO you're talking about a 'defect in materials or workmanship' here, TVs standards are very high I'm betting they'll replace it if you ask real nice......

Hey, should that be '.....workpersonship'?

Best wishes.

OF
If they would, that would be cool. But then again that means I'd have to wait like a week without using the Cera.. :smug:

I would not suggest using a torch anymore to clean the body though. I was only using a very small torch that has enough gas for like 1 dab on a Ti nail.
 
Highnstein,

GReYAReA

Amid The Vapors...
Love my Cera. Just a warning for travel though. Make sure you are clean, and you might want to leave it out on the X-ray bin or something. I travel a lot; never an issue with the UltraLight and DART, but the Cera in the carry-on suitcase sure sent up some warnings yesterday. Had my luggage gone through; wiped down for residues, x-rayed twice more. Ended up giving TSA a demonstration on how to use my "electronic cigar".

It is big, heavy, and definitely jumps out on the X-Ray screen.
 

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
No. If the vents are plugged air getting in the screw isn't going to magically go through them now, something else is going on......nobody else has to remove a screw to get it to draw.

Yes, there's a gap there (or you couldn't build it). It's very small and no doubt pretty well sealed with oil. What you did was open up a hole straight through to the core. You can stick a needle in that hole and break the ceramic ring behind it (second one up I think?). The vents are not involved which is why I suggested above that there is no longer a way to clear them. You just put an open carb hole in the side of a WP, you can't expect the bowl to draw any more if you can follow that analogy?

Still, if you're happy with it.......

OF
I'm not following you on this one ... The set screws tighten against something ... The shaft no? That's what it looks like ... I never had working vents from below the core body ... Why would TV tell me to try removing one if that isn't a potential fix for my case?

I don't know what the inside of the core looks like beyond what I can see so its maybe just my lack of understanding ... I just don't want to wait 3 weeks to replace it unless that's the only way. Not to mention shipping 2 ways will cost 40% of the selling price of the core.

Edit:

I think I'm picturing it now ... Some air may come through the vents now by way of the intake but probably not most ... That being said, the vents can't really be plugged as they never vented in the first place so there is nothing to plug :lol:
 
JCat,

OF

Well-Known Member
I would not suggest using a torch anymore to clean the body though. I was only using a very small torch that has enough gas for like 1 dab on a Ti nail.

I would not torch the body, too much chance of not heating the tube evenly. I've seen the MPs being torched there before, I would not be afraid to torch them or the core. As always, remember to do so evenly, heating one part and making it expand more than other parts is not going to help......

Glad your troubling stain is gone. I'd contact TV and talk to them, I bet they trust you enough to front the replacement so you can use the cracked one until the new one gets there? Be sure to send the dud back, though, let's remember they lost their $15,000 service set aside on the old products when guys didn't keep their part of the deals, which ended that program for everyone else.

OF
 
OF,

OF

Well-Known Member
I'm not following you on this one ... The set screws tighten against something ... The shaft no? That's what it looks like ... I never had working vents from below the core body ... Why would TV tell me to try removing one if that isn't a potential fix for my case?

No, it does not screw against any shaft. That's exactly my point. Look at the screw you just took out, see the dimple two turns up? That's what stops the screw. Screw it in too far and you start crushing stuff and shorting the core out IIRC. The screw threads into the wall of the tube that makes the cup, sealing the hole. This is not a good place for us amateurs to be messing about.

What you've done is opened an unintentional vent hole up in the side wall and removed one of the alignment pins doing so. Those screws are just that, threaded pins. They could be welded in just as well (but be a lot harder to make....).

If I was to guess why he suggested it, I'd say it was as a troubleshooting tool. It's not a repair IMO.

OF
 
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JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
No, it does not screw against any shaft. That's exactly my point. Look at the screw you just took out, see the dimple two turns up? That's what stops the screw. Screw it in too far and you start crushing stuff and shorting the core out IIRC. The screw threads into the wall of the tube that makes the cup, sealing the hole. This is not a good place for us amateurs to be messing about.

What you've done is opened an unintentional vent hole up in the side wall and removed one of the alignment pins doing so. Those screws are just that, threaded pins. They could be welded in just as well (but be a lot harder to make....).

If I was to guess why he suggested it, I'd say it was as a troubleshooting tool. It's not a repair IMO.

OF
In my last email communicating the results the response was that there were no issues with leaving it this way and some people prefer it even with one set screw out ...
 
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Musicslv

Well-Known Member
You know, this is why a good schematic is in order. TV must have patents protecting any theft of design...
 
Musicslv,
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