Discontinued Thermovape Cera
- Thread starter SameOldTim
- Start date
Man that was a lot of reading!!
Sorry for not being on much this week, I have a few new ventures that have been taking up a lot of my time. But dont fret, im still here
I havnt ran into many CEO cores that have leaked, all my experiences of it leaking were when i would over load it with a bunch of thin oils. If it does leak it and cool down it might make the core hard to remove. Rather than torching it i would recomend just turning it on and gettting it warmed up by itself to loosen up the core. If that doesnt work then just leaving it in the sun or a hot car for a few min would help. Torching is just very hard to control, most importantly make sure you dont get the body too hot as it could cause problems with mylar tape.
Also instead of torching a core to clean it, i would just dry run it. Get the sucker hot and let it self clean the contaminants off the heater. Just make sure you get all you want out of it first as when you start getting it very hot like that you'll notice the taste of the contaminants more.
Chees,
Tim
Sorry for not being on much this week, I have a few new ventures that have been taking up a lot of my time. But dont fret, im still here
I havnt ran into many CEO cores that have leaked, all my experiences of it leaking were when i would over load it with a bunch of thin oils. If it does leak it and cool down it might make the core hard to remove. Rather than torching it i would recomend just turning it on and gettting it warmed up by itself to loosen up the core. If that doesnt work then just leaving it in the sun or a hot car for a few min would help. Torching is just very hard to control, most importantly make sure you dont get the body too hot as it could cause problems with mylar tape.
Also instead of torching a core to clean it, i would just dry run it. Get the sucker hot and let it self clean the contaminants off the heater. Just make sure you get all you want out of it first as when you start getting it very hot like that you'll notice the taste of the contaminants more.
Chees,
Tim
Mylar tape, where is the Mylar tape located?
The leaking out the bottom was minimal and came out when using the Cera heater to load new oil, the other time when using the Cera heater to quick any contaimanates from the ceramic sponges. Yes the Cera keeps itself clean for use but those contaimanates go somewhere, my experience is making me think they like to settle in the air path.
There was a TET video of torching the core red hot. I was under the impression that all parts that made up the core could handle this at users risk of coarse. If this is the case I need to improve my wate, ISO , water cleans since the last on left .2 left behind after all water was evaporated. I guess a much longer ISO soak with a lot of agitation will be the next to try and disolve the contaimanates in the nooks and crannies, I am gonna need a second core to handle the down time of long soaks.
The leaking out the bottom was minimal and came out when using the Cera heater to load new oil, the other time when using the Cera heater to quick any contaimanates from the ceramic sponges. Yes the Cera keeps itself clean for use but those contaimanates go somewhere, my experience is making me think they like to settle in the air path.
There was a TET video of torching the core red hot. I was under the impression that all parts that made up the core could handle this at users risk of coarse. If this is the case I need to improve my wate, ISO , water cleans since the last on left .2 left behind after all water was evaporated. I guess a much longer ISO soak with a lot of agitation will be the next to try and disolve the contaimanates in the nooks and crannies, I am gonna need a second core to handle the down time of long soaks.
JoeKickass
Well-Known Member
Is a 20/20/20 burn adequate to get rid of the old overheated oil? Or would I need to run the heater full on for atleast a minute a couple times?Man that was a lot of reading!!
Sorry for not being on much this week, I have a few new ventures that have been taking up a lot of my time. But dont fret, im still here
I havnt ran into many CEO cores that have leaked, all my experiences of it leaking were when i would over load it with a bunch of thin oils. If it does leak it and cool down it might make the core hard to remove. Rather than torching it i would recomend just turning it on and gettting it warmed up by itself to loosen up the core. If that doesnt work then just leaving it in the sun or a hot car for a few min would help. Torching is just very hard to control, most importantly make sure you dont get the body too hot as it could cause problems with mylar tape.
Also instead of torching a core to clean it, i would just dry run it. Get the sucker hot and let it self clean the contaminants off the heater. Just make sure you get all you want out of it first as when you start getting it very hot like that you'll notice the taste of the contaminants more.
Chees,
Tim
I'm trying to find the best procedure to DEEP CLEAN the CEO cart.
So far I have this:
1. run heater for a minute or two for a few cycles or 20/20/20 burn
2. boil for 15 minutes
3. iso soak for 20 minutes
4. boil for 5 minutes
5. bake for 30+ minutes
6. run heater to remove remaining liquid
Does this sound thorough?
Got it, that makes sense. I am talking about torching just the oil core with the o-rings off, held with big vice grips. I was going to get the TI since it would hold up to these torching s better but then I realized I could buy almost three SS cores for the price of one TI core.
darkrom
Great Scott!
Threads on the battery tube seized up can't undo them. Gave it a whack and it chipped and still won't release. Any ideas?
This feels like a sick joke. Do I really need a backup vape whenever I want to use this thing. I've had it 4 total days and it left me without medication 2 of them.
This feels like a sick joke. Do I really need a backup vape whenever I want to use this thing. I've had it 4 total days and it left me without medication 2 of them.
toros23
Well-Known Member
OF
Well-Known Member
Thorough perhaps but IMO not logical. Why would you try to burn stuff you could wash away?
I prefer to boil first, it seems to get the most material out fastest.
Soaking in ISO is effective, but think about it: unless you can flush the ISO through the area noting is going to wash away, right? Simply soaking does no good. Therefore I put it in a vial I can gently agitate (inverting works for me) so the solvent drains out and is replaced. I do this several times over the soaking. I've also given passing thought to using Pipe's system for DART to force solvent through the area, perhaps with a syringe or turkey baster? Something rigged to a drip tip I'm thinking?
If, after a couple tries I hadn't cleared the vents I'd consider heat, but am concerned that once you start raising the temperature higher than normal you're committed. If you don't clear the junk, it's going to bake it on harder than ever. The key, I think, is not getting it so fouled up the vents become hopeless. This was an issue with Revolution/DART of course, but guys didn't use them in the same way I think.
I think it's also a good plan to be sure to not load enough to flood and be sure the vents are clear when you end the session.
Washing junk out is a better plan than trying to burn it IMO. Washing it out puts it someplace else. Starting out by baking stuff on good and hard seems against that logic.
Why are they stuck? Was it stiff going on and galled in place? This is more common with Ti, but SS can do it too. Lube is the answer here. Or did they get jammed against the stop? In which case heat/cold will probably free it. The fix is not doing it with such gusto next time.....
In either case a drop or two of penetrating oil might help. You can unscrew the switch from inside the end cap and put some oil on the other end of the threads from the hole.
Failing that a pair of strap wrenches will get it off, be careful that you get a solid bite on the metal ring, not the body, since you don't want to be torquing on the epoxy holding the ring in.
OF
darkrom
Great Scott!
Got it after more frustration. Chipped it a bit. I REALLY needed relief from back and neck spasms on the way to the chiropractor. I decided chipping it was necessary. Freed it but wasn't ideal. I'm thinking my pax will have to stick around until I can get a few weeks without trouble here. I love my cera, but its being a difficult tool so far. I'll continue to work through the kinks
Hi Bob,
I have 2 EO cores ... my 1st one has the exact same problem as you and Zeiki had me remove one set screw so I would have airflow (I had 100% guaranteed zero air flow through the bottom of my first cart ... my 2nd cart seems normal and the draw is somewhat restricted, but air flows freely through it ... my 1st cart the only air that got through, period, was through the set screws ... although that seemed to seal up more over time so that no air flow was coming in until I removed the set screw)
I'll probably send my 1st core in for servicing eventually ... but it still works well with the one screw removed although I think the 2nd core without the set screw removed works better
OF
Well-Known Member
Doesn't sound like it's worth repeating.
Like I said, if the threads are tight, lube them. Candle wax will work as will many others, including lubes made specially for the use. You don't want dry metal on metal unless the surfaces are perfect.
If it's from slamming into the stop, that should be avoided. Threads are really a wedge in cylinder form (there are only like 3 basic machines, levers, wedges (actually inclined planes technically) and the wheel). This means you can get great mechanical advantage to jam the wedge in 'gut und tight' (as the Germans would say) if you're not careful. Combine that will a little galling and you're in for a bad time. The cap only needs to be snug to do it's job.
Good luck with it, Brother DR, you'll get it under control I'm sure.
Zeiki had me remove one set screw so I would have airflow
I'll probably send my 1st core in for servicing eventually ... but it still works well with the one screw removed although I think the 2nd core without the set screw removed works better
Let's remember, this idea was countermanded by Tim. End users messing with the screws is not authorized and is not part of the design. At best it's covering up for some other problem. Ironically since it isolates the area under the screw hole, where the vents are, this means the vents will never clear with the screw missing....... A compromise involving a degradation in performance at best.
Last time I asked there had been no EO cores returned with mechanically blocked ports (only concentrate fouling or no blockages). That may have changed but as I said I took my first core back because I thought the partially blocked holes was a defect only to have it explained to me. Sometime around the 200 unit mark I specifically asked about this because the 'take the screw out' idea popped up on the thread....at that point they hadn't seen any shipped units that needed that to draw correctly (not an issue at that time).
Sending it in if there aren't four screws in place was Tim's recommendation, and IMO a good one.
OF
In defense of torching clean there are no contaimanates or oil left when heated to 1500f plus. Followed by a boil everything should be gone. I am liking the idea of ISO and pressure to force it through the cart
Time will tell if my core has been damaged by torching, as I mentioned TET will have it this upcoming week in their hands. If it doesn't work out I will get a new core and work with different cleaning methods. All in all it is still cheaper then the 5-10Omni carts a month I used to go through.
Thanks OF, you're always a great resource.
Here's the revised method:
1. boil for 15 minutes
2. iso soak for 20 minutes WITH gentle agitation and movement
3. boil for 5 minutes
4. set it upside down to drain water for a while
5. run heater for 1-2 min for a few cycles OR 20/20/20 burn method OR torch it
After that maybe another iso wash would be good to remove whatever carbon dust is left?
Does anybody know what happens to this steel after it's been torched and cool? Will it alter the flavor, longevity, or function of the core?
Thanks for all your answers!
OF
Well-Known Member
You're welcome, glad to help if I can. I'm not sure I'd be worried about carbon dust remaining, but you could wash it (although that would mean drying it out again...).
There are those who will no doubt object to the 'taste' of the raw SS until it's again covered by condensed concentrate I guess, my big concern is the cores cracking or maybe the screws getting jammed with rapid expansion and contractions not normally seen. I try to make a habit of keeping the vents clear and not heating more than needed to avoid cooking the oil into sludge so I don't have to clean often at all. Early on I did it a lot getting used to the core, changing concentrates and so on. But I didn't like loosing .2 grams or so needlessly.
While I know it's not going to last forever, I'd still like the core to 'live long and prosper'.
OF
tavosvo
Active Member
Holy crap. Left my cera in the car and came back to it a few hours later. Started to hit it, a puff of vapor, then a little cloud of smoke came shooting out the safety pin hole! I didn't think that was it at first so I tried to hit it again and nothing! I'm thinking wtf...then I look into safety pin hole and the battery isn't touching!? Unscrew the switch to find my spring collapsed and my battery all burnt! Fuck! Weirdly i put battery in upside down for first time, flat side up against the cart. Wonder if that somehow made a difference.
Gently pulled spring back out and tried new battery..all is well and I'm puffing away but I'm tripped out. Any forseeable problems from heat collapsed spring? What could have caused battery meltdown? It's only been through 10 cycles or so and not abused..
Also- can I iso the inside of the body? Super stink roasted electronic smell
Gently pulled spring back out and tried new battery..all is well and I'm puffing away but I'm tripped out. Any forseeable problems from heat collapsed spring? What could have caused battery meltdown? It's only been through 10 cycles or so and not abused..
Also- can I iso the inside of the body? Super stink roasted electronic smell
darkrom
Great Scott!
The cera is back in working order minus a minimal chip. Normally I'd never hit it to loosen it, but it was as much of an emergency as I could imagine. I was even prepared to buy a new switch if need be, as long as it would work then.
Its all working good now, I'll lube it a bit with the pax mouthpiece lube I think to be safe, but that was quite frustrating because it was necessary vapor, not relaxing or recreational. I'm sure this thing will eventually feel as dependable as the T1, but it is brand new, so there are changes to be made etc. I know thermovape will treat me right at least, but it may be worth keeping the pax in my car for emergencies until I have a better track record under my belt. I imagine if any widespread problems existed I'd read about them here anyway, so I'll chalk this up to bad luck. I mean its not like the threads were defective. I guess I'd suggest anyone lube them up when you get them just in case. Not only can you use safe lube, but it is 100% out of the air path, so there is no disadvantage.
Thanks for the tips. I'm just so relieved it is still working correctly and producing great vapor. Just threw me for quite the scare at a rough time.
Its all working good now, I'll lube it a bit with the pax mouthpiece lube I think to be safe, but that was quite frustrating because it was necessary vapor, not relaxing or recreational. I'm sure this thing will eventually feel as dependable as the T1, but it is brand new, so there are changes to be made etc. I know thermovape will treat me right at least, but it may be worth keeping the pax in my car for emergencies until I have a better track record under my belt. I imagine if any widespread problems existed I'd read about them here anyway, so I'll chalk this up to bad luck. I mean its not like the threads were defective. I guess I'd suggest anyone lube them up when you get them just in case. Not only can you use safe lube, but it is 100% out of the air path, so there is no disadvantage.
Thanks for the tips. I'm just so relieved it is still working correctly and producing great vapor. Just threw me for quite the scare at a rough time.
I just sent TET an email for an update on my Cera repair and literally walked out my front door to find her in perfectly working order! To honest, The LL core seems to work even better then before! They definitly put the magic back in! The turnaround on my Cera was 7 days including mailing to and fro. TET definitly has a customer for life just because of their service. It was kinda nice to do a throwback week on the T1. 
BLAZING OG
Vaping is a way of life!
I think OF stated that the japanese panasonic 2250 mah and the 2900 mah work best!!!!!but out of the AW 18650's batteries these 1600mah i think he said work ok,(1600 mah gives more kick than the higher mah rated AW)!!!!Very True!
Had these lying around. Will they work for the Cera? and how well?
Overall, if you want the best performance go with these -------------->
http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-CGR...=UTF8&qid=1366956275&sr=8-1&keywords=cgr18650
2250mah Japanese Panasonic batteries
OR
--------------------->
NCR 18650 PD 2900mahNew hard to find bare cells. Unique Lithium Ion batteries deliver 2900mah and a class leading 10amp discharge rate! Great for high demand devicesApprox 18.2 X 65mm
2900mah capacity3.7v lithium ion
Made in Japan - Genuine Panasonic
http://callieskustoms.com/CalliesKustoms-Batteries.html
OF
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you might have the same issue another user reported with a copper tab on the bottom of the screw plate from the ground strap? You caused a short circuit to happen right there with the battery being upside down. Notice that the button is smaller than the minus end? Plus up misses the tab.
You can ISO clean the tube if you want but the spring really should be replaced. It did exactly what it's designed to do, it could have got really ugly without it's 'fuse action'. It's now degraded, it's only intended to work once. Time to send it in, unfortunately. The switch will need to be replaced since the spring is epoxied to it and the screw plate fixed so it won't happen again.....TV should be able to do a bang up job cleaning the tube out for you since they'll have to strip it down to service the screw plate.
It sound to me like they should consider an inspection jig to check for this. I've got a couple ideas to discuss with Tim and the guys. Once they get your defective unit in I think I'll wonder over and have a look at it with them? Please add a note to that effect when you send it in? TIA
I'm sure they'll sort it out quickly and effectively but I think it's time for a trip to the shop and a follow up inspection technique is worth looking into. For sure the new welding plans should include this new concern. Good luck, not that I think you'll need it.
BTW, you might test the battery, chances are if the vents didn't open you're still able to use it?
OF
YeeeBuddy
Well-Known Member
I just sent TET an email for an update on my Cera repair and literally walked out my front door to find her in perfectly working order! To honest, The LL core seems to work even better then before! They definitly put the magic back in! The turnaround on my Cera was 7 days including mailing to and fro. TET definitly has a customer for life just because of their service. It was kinda nice to do a throwback week on the T1.
Same exact experience for me, took 6 days from the day i dropped it off at the post office. Also my LL core is hitting like no other, I'm barely inhaling and pulling fat clouds consistently, herb is roasting more evenly as well. I think it wasn't 100% before it took a crap, really hoping they've figured out the strap issue and it continues to perform like this. I am using a slow DEEP inhale, alot like Noah did in those old videos and getting similar size hits as well
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Same exact experience for me, took 6 days from the day i dropped it off at the post office. Also my LL core is hitting like no other, I'm barely inhaling and pulling fat clouds consistently, herb is roasting more evenly as well. I think it wasn't 100% before it took a crap, really hoping they've figured out the strap issue and it continues to perform like this. I am using a slow DEEP inhale, alot like Noah did in those old videos and getting similar size hits as well
Definitly same here! I definitly noticed the more even heating through the load as well as the ease of the draw to produce nice thick clouds! Plus another observation is that now I'm getting 4-6 bowls off of one battery where as I used to get 2! Boy I love this thing!
