Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

[Easywider]

Are Splinters can be used like a Mighty for sipping with a 3-4 sec draw time for instant vapor?

Short answer is, Nope. With an on demand 100% convection vaporizer your not putting your material in an oven to be heated ( like the mighty or Vapcap ) you are drawing hot air from a heater through your material. It needs time to become heat soaked before vapor can start production. A typical draw on a 100% convection vape will be about 12-15 seconds. Start your draw off slower and gradually ramp up. Pack your bowls even, keep them loose with just enough tamping that your herb does fall out. I’m sure someone can explain this better but this should get you pointed in the right direction.

 

[DogBoy]

...methinks you pretty much said it...

...I might ad that it is better for "advanced" users...

 

[Summer]

@Catnipmint, to know if it's a device problem or just the tc settings, try using it in wattage mode instead of tc. I say take your 1st hit at 32 watts, & adjust up or down from there (prob. Up) for your sweet spot & see if you are still combusting. If not, it's not your packing or the Splinter, but will strictly be your tc settings. Process of elimination.

 

[DogBoy]

...the Splinter is supposed to be run in watt mode anyway...

...this video might be helpful...

 

[Catnipmint]

How the fuck to not combust at 32W? I can combust at 20W, not to draw or what? Vapexhale EVO is a real pure convection beast, and not combust, doesnt matter how fast or slow I draw. Splinter is not an advanced vape, its just too fuzzy... killing the experience. Vapcap is much of a hybrid on demand, best paired with a glass WPA for Sneakypete or vapefiend. I selled my Mighty and trying to replace it with a Solo 2, just for new experience. Stickybricks also is a beast, but a littlebit too powerful with a proper technique, one draw = one bowl . Ok so I think I have better vapes than Splinter, I'm given up, It doesnt get me the good experience. So for what I have, I think I'm not an inexperienced vaper: Focusvape Pro (sell to friend), Mighty ( sell to friend, best overall), Dynavap Nonavong, Dynavap M Shadow, Dynavap M 2019 (just for the new bowl), Vapexhale EVO, Sticky Brick Flip Brick (mastered with a 180 degree rotated heat shield, now almost combust free), Splinter V2, Linx Hypnos Zero, Sai TAF titanium.

I dont find the sweet spot for the Splinter, too much heat for me. Anybody using with Wismec RX Gen3 dual Arctic Fox please share the setrings, very inconsistent, I like much more my other vapes. Luckily bought only for 75GBP.

 

[Summer]

...the Splinter is supposed to be run in watt mode anyway...

Although the Splinter was designed to be run in wattage mode, it can also be run in tc mode which allows for more customized & nuanced settings.

@Catnipmint, are you completely out of tc mode & purely using wattage mod when you combust @ 32w? If you are solely using wattage mode, I don't think you should be combusting at 20w. I might then think it was your mod. Anyone able to offer more input as my mod knowledge is wanting.

 

[DogBoy]

How the fuck to not combust at 32W? I can combust at 20W, not to draw or what? Vapexhale EVO is a real pure convection beast, and not combust, doesnt matter how fast or slow I draw. Splinter is not an advanced vape, its just too fuzzy... killing the experience. Vapcap is much of a hybrid on demand, best paired with a glass WPA for Sneakypete or vapefiend. I selled my Mighty and trying to replace it with a Solo 2, just for new experience. Stickybricks also is a beast, but a littlebit too powerful with a proper technique, one draw = one bowl . Ok so I think I have better vapes than Splinter, I'm given up, It doesnt get me the good experience. So for what I have, I think I'm not an inexperienced vaper: Focusvape Pro (sell to friend), Mighty ( sell to friend, best overall), Dynavap Nonavong, Dynavap M Shadow, Dynavap M 2019 (just for the new bowl), Vapexhale EVO, Sticky Brick Flip Brick (mastered with a 180 degree rotated heat shield, now almost combust free), Splinter V2, Linx Hypnos Zero, Sai TAF titanium.

I dont find the sweet spot for the Splinter, too much heat for me. Anybody using with Wismec RX Gen3 dual Arctic Fox please share the setrings, very inconsistent, I like much more my other vapes. Luckily bought only for 75GBP.

...sorry for that remark...you are more advanced than I am...it could be the Splinter just suks…???...(grin)

...FWIW, I started to get good results, and would still be messing with my V1+ if it were not for the issues with the heater screen and all the defective glass...

...I hope the Chinese get their production sorted out, but they have scared me off...

...I get the feeling the that dealers are getting hung out to dry on this...

...in any case, I would suggest that you don't just give up...just give it a rest...

...a great many people, many of whom are smarter than I, like their Splinters a lot...

 

[Hippie]

Good advice as usual from @Summer
I'd spend a few bowls getting used to power mode first

Get a cold resistance reading
Set it to about 33w
Press the button for 5 seconds
Continue to hold the button and draw
If u taste it starting to get too hot or scorch release the button
You shouldn't need to do the 5 second preheat for successive draw if it's still warm
I find I get best extraction with regular stem rotation as you go

I've posted lots of tfr files for the Spinter and Zed that all work a few pages back but mostly use TCR mode for temp control myself with ...
No adjustment to the cold resistance, TCR 125, 45W max (50w for the Zed), PID enabled @ about 200 degrees C (with 60 second timeout and double click autofire)
If you think it's too cold for the temp shown on screen, increase the TCR by 5 and test

Don't expect vapour instantly either way as it takes a second or 3 to heat the glass and the load before it before it really starts producing.

 

[Summer]

...it could be the Splinter just suks…???

No, it doesn't suck. But it does have a learning curve to get it dialed in.

...FWIW, I started to get good results, and would still be messing with my V1+ if it were not for the issues with the heater screen and all the defective glass...

Please fill us in on what your issue with the heater screen & the glass defect is. And when did you receive it?

 

[Monk Debate]

Speaking from experience, the Splinter can take some practice to get really comfortable with it. Keep at it and you’ll be a pro in no time.

And try a different mod if you’re combusting at 20 watts!

 

[DogBoy]

No, it doesn't suck. But it does have a learning curve to get it dialed in.



Please fill us in on what your issue with the heater screen & the glass defect is. And when did you receive it?

...I did...# 4521...trying not to focus totaly on the negative here...like taking an obvious jest and quoting it out of context...

...I will elaborate that some of the glass arrived cracked, and some just didn't fit because it was so out of spec...with exquisite irony the cracked pieces were in spec and fit very nicely...

...one piece had only a hairline fracture that would be easy to miss but it was right at the base where it joined the fitting, in an area of thermal stress...I might have just kept that one anyway, if I was not concerned aboot the stuff under the heater screen...I wanted to use the Splinter...

...my package arrived on the 25th...

 

[flammy]

Hi everyone!

Please help me with my Splinter V2 (chinese). I'm always combust, tried in wattage mode only, I can combust and hotspot even at 20W. Usimg with Wismec Reul3aux Gen3 Dual (Arctic fox). With AC tried TC with TCR 100-150 , resistance locked at cold 0.26ohm, but I can combust even in TC. If setting too low temp I had to draw much longer (5+ sec+), or if draw too hard again combusting. What I'm doing wrong, where is the instant vapor like im the reviews, my Vapcaps much more instant and better without combusting. Please advise me some settings, read a lot but always combusted or had to draw for too long. Best instant on demamd vapes only since for me are Vapexhale Evo and Vapcap with a bong, what about the hype I dont understand. Are Splinters can be used like a Mighty for sipping with a 3-4 sec draw time for instant vapor?

Please suggest me some settings or packing technique, using XLR8 long cooling stem, stock screens, also tried with EVO baskets but a little bit big. Are there any dosing capsule which is compatible with the splinter, mightys are too big?

Thanks for your help, I'm really disappointed with my splinter regardig of the hype and reviews.

I recommend trying again but sticking with wattage mode for the time being. Wattage mode will require manual regulation of the temp. One of the easiest ways to do this is by pulsing the fire button which means that you will hold the button and draw and then release the button (for about 1.5 seconds) and push again all while still drawing. This allows the heater to cool down and prevents it from getting too hot. If you hold the button down continuously while drawing in wattage mode, you will most likely combust. I hold the button down for 3-4 seconds max in wattage before releasing and pressing again. You can also regulate temp by increasing draw speed and bringing in more fresh air through the intakes. However, this technique alone won't stop the RBT heater from over heating and combusting though.

What we have here is a powerful heater that takes some technique to tame.

Also keep in mind that your technique will actually differ on your first load compared to any subsequent loads if the heater is still warm. If it is your first load and a cold mod, you will need to heat soak first which just simply involves pressing down the fire button without drawing. Do this for maybe 3 seconds max. What I like to do is to do a few couple of very quick cigar pulls to bring heat through the load and then begin my normal draw (with pulsing). My draw is just a bit quicker than regular breathing.

I start my Splinter at around 26-28 watts and bump to 36 to finish a load sometimes. A finer grind in my experience also helps with the Splinters performance but YMMV. This is a good vape but it does take some technique. You can try TC mode but IMO it will be a more frustrating venture than wattage if you haven't gotten that down yet.

This all said, defects are possible but I would try again before jumping to that conclusion. Hopefully this helps.

 

[VGOODIEZ]

...I really wanted to like the Splinter...I had noted the Glows, but I preferred the simpler form factor...

... some weird stuff under the heating screen involving some sort of spot weld finally put me off...

...I was told this was normal but then a brown spot formed there in just a few uses...

...this was on top of four out of four defective pieces of glass I was basically blamed for at one point...

...you could say this has undermined any confidence I had in the product...

...I tried to return it but that hasn't gone well...at this point I have no Splinter and no $$$, and am not allowed to buy parts for the Glow 14 I ordered...

...but I am considered unreasonable and selfish...LoL...

...if I had been told I was being erratic and indecisive, I might have bought it...

Again you are out spreading inaccurate information. I am not going to respond with the full story at this point but I am asking you again to keep our business our business. Any further attempt to talk about this situation will be met with a factual response by us.

I would suggest sticking to the topic of the thread which is the unit itself.

 

[Summer]

If you hold the button down continuously while drawing in wattage mode, you will most likely combust.

Not true. I never pulse the fire button during a draw. Just one continuous, upto 15 sec. draw with an additional, continuous 10 sec. preheat added to the 1st firing.


@DogBoy, OK, let's get an understandable, concise grip on what's happening without all the surperfluous stuff you posted.

You said:

"...my Splinter Experience was brief, but I was getting good results after a steep learning curve...

...I was actually starting to like the Splinter as I grew more practiced with it"

"... quality control issues and a fundamental lack of support at the wholesale level has, IMHO, undermined a good product..."

Based on these statements, my understanding is that the issue is strictly cracked stems because you have spoken well of the Splinter.

So, of the 4 stem styles you received, I assume 2 are the straight, short, clear stems that came in the Splinter box? And the other 2 are long & short cooling stems? (*Pics of defects would be helpful.)
_________________________

"...a dealer should not have to sort through parts after the sale to provide a functional kit...methinks that's pretty lame..."

"... I was basically blamed for at one point..."

So how exactly were you blamed? And why weren't the stems replaced?
_____________________

"...I am kicking self for not snagging a custom Splinter when I had the chance..."

How would this have changed anything, because it's not the Splinter that's defective, but the stems?

 

[flammy]

Not true. I never pulse the fire button during a draw. Just one continuous, upto 15 sec. draw with an additional, continuous 10 sec. preheat added to the 1st firing.

I should have been more specific but it will depend on what wattage you're running and duration. If you're running mid 30s or lower, you'll get a hotspot but probably not combust.

 

[VGOODIEZ]

Not true. I never pulse the fire button during a draw. Just one continuous, upto 15 sec. draw with an additional, continuous 10 sec. preheat added to the 1st firing.


@DogBoy, OK, let's get an understandable, concise grip on what's happening without all the surperfluous stuff you posted.

You said:

"...my Splinter Experience was brief, but I was getting good results after a steep learning curve...

...I was actually starting to like the Splinter as I grew more practiced with it"

"... quality control issues and a fundamental lack of support at the wholesale level has, IMHO, undermined a good product..."

Based on these statements, my understanding is that the issue is strictly cracked stems because you have spoken well of the Splinter.

So, of the 4 stem styles you received, I assume 2 are the straight, short, clear stems that came in the Splinter box? And the other 2 are long & short cooling stems? (*Pics of defects would be helpful.)
_________________________

"...a dealer should not have to sort through parts after the sale to provide a functional kit...methinks that's pretty lame..."

"... I was basically blamed for at one point..."

So how exactly were you blamed? And why weren't the stems replaced?
_____________________

"...I am kicking self for not snagging a custom Splinter when I had the chance..."

How would this have changed anything, because it's not the Splinter that's defective, but the stems?

Summer I am dealing with this. I would not waste any energy on this. I am taking care of the concerns (stem fit issues and some cracked glass cooling stems we recieved and shipped [we are now checking both of these issues 100% until we run out of stock and discontinue RBT]). I always have been following the process outlined by Ryan but it's been difficult in this case with all the email traffic (nearly everyone a new thread) and lack of patience by the customer for following said process. I will stop there because I don't feel this is the place to discuss.

 

[Catnipmint]

Hi!

First thanks for the tips!
Sadly I can try it only 2 days later because I work. Its my 3rd mod, shitty Dabstorm 2.0, Vaooresso Luxe (died in 20 days, bad charging blard and lack of settings), Wismec Rx Gen3 Dual is new, much better. I'm using TCR because wattage is too hot for me and dont want to pulse. All of my mods read cold 0.26 resistance, its locked. I'm already checked the glass (blow method) its not cracked, 3 month old bought from Vapefiend. If I draw fast experiencing burnt hotspots and green unvaped like somebody mentioned above (XLR8 long stem). Maybe I had to play with TCR setting or resistance in Arcticn Fox for lower temp. After I'm not used to draw for 5 sec and then some vapor starts to come. Also Vapexhale EVO gives instant vapor but its a beast not fair to compare with Splinter. What is the fastest time for vapor coming with Splinter without combust if I'm drawing much faster? Is therr any stem which is compatible with S&B dosing capsule and my chinese Splinter V2?

 

[Shit Snacks]

Hi!

First thanks for the tips!
Sadly I can try it only 2 days later because I work. Its my 3rd mod, shitty Dabstorm 2.0, Vaooresso Luxe (died in 20 days, bad charging blard and lack of settings), Wismec Rx Gen3 Dual is new, much better. I'm using TCR because wattage is too hot for me and dont want to pulse. All of my mods read cold 0.26 resistance, its locked. I'm already checked the glass (blow method) its not cracked, 3 month old bought from Vapefiend. If I draw fast experiencing burnt hotspots and green unvaped like somebody mentioned above (XLR8 long stem). Maybe I had to play with TCR setting or resistance in Arcticn Fox for lower temp. After I'm not used to draw for 5 sec and then some vapor starts to come. Also Vapexhale EVO gives instant vapor but its a beast not fair to compare with Splinter. What is the fastest time for vapor coming with Splinter without combust if I'm drawing much faster? Is therr any stem which is compatible with S&B dosing capsule and my chinese Splinter V2?

Its all relative, theoretically a fast draw would compensate any high wattage for quick hits... If you are combusting at 20 watts (how long holding button?) then I'd guess you were drawing pretty slow?

From cold, try setting to 35watts and holding for 5sec to preheat, then lower the wattage for your hit to 27 watts. Give it a second before you start inhaling, steadily increasing your draw, for a about 5-8sec and let go of the button as you feel the heat and keep drawing as long as you can. This shouldn't really combust, but again depends on your specific technique and how you load...

You will need to order a custom 19/19 stem from Lamart or maybe Alan to fit an S&B capsule. You may need more power with that, though I suppose it'd be robbing enough heat to avoid any scorching for you... Could try to use a screen on top of your regular load too?

The Evo is much different, because it takes 5 minutes to get heat soaked and then you let it sit on. If you try to take back-to-back hits in an Evo, you will find the second to be weaker unless you give it proper time to regain the heat lost from the previous hit... Here that is not the case, and often the second hit is thicker than the first! Instant pure convection on demand can be a tricky beast to tame, just like StickyBricks, some are never quite able to pick it up, but those who do tend to find it very rewarding at least.

 

[bossman]

Instant pure convection on demand can be a tricky beast to tame, just like StickyBricks, some are never quite able to pick it up, but those who do tend to find it very rewarding at least.

Truly

 

[F-UCTD]

How the fuck to not combust at 32W? I can combust at 20W, not to draw or what? Vapexhale EVO is a real pure convection beast, and not combust, doesnt matter how fast or slow I draw. Splinter is not an advanced vape, its just too fuzzy... killing the experience. Vapcap is much of a hybrid on demand, best paired with a glass WPA for Sneakypete or vapefiend. I selled my Mighty and trying to replace it with a Solo 2, just for new experience. Stickybricks also is a beast, but a littlebit too powerful with a proper technique, one draw = one bowl . Ok so I think I have better vapes than Splinter, I'm given up, It doesnt get me the good experience. So for what I have, I think I'm not an inexperienced vaper: Focusvape Pro (sell to friend), Mighty ( sell to friend, best overall), Dynavap Nonavong, Dynavap M Shadow, Dynavap M 2019 (just for the new bowl), Vapexhale EVO, Sticky Brick Flip Brick (mastered with a 180 degree rotated heat shield, now almost combust free), Splinter V2, Linx Hypnos Zero, Sai TAF titanium.

I dont find the sweet spot for the Splinter, too much heat for me. Anybody using with Wismec RX Gen3 dual Arctic Fox please share the setrings, very inconsistent, I like much more my other vapes. Luckily bought only for 75GBP.

Here are my settings for the same mod. TCNi 310f at 30w. That is for the Splinter V1.

 

[DogBoy]

@DogBoy, OK, let's get an understandable, concise grip on what's happening without all the superfluous stuff you posted.

...LoL…!!!...good luck with that...I will give it a shot...

...it is settled...I am sorry to have upset everyone...I can be very confusing, as I am very confused...

...I would not be afraid to buy from this vendor if he had what I wanted and would sell it to me...

...there is stuff there you won't find elsewhere, even Germany...(grin)

...as for the big deal I thought something weird was going on under the heater screen...

...there was this brown spot...the vender needed to see it...the rest......confusion...

...it seems, after all, the man just wants us to be happy...

 

[Catnipmint]

Its all relative, theoretically a fast draw would compensate any high wattage for quick hits... If you are combusting at 20 watts (how long holding button?) then I'd guess you were drawing pretty slow?

From cold, try setting to 35watts and holding for 5sec to preheat, then lower the wattage for your hit to 27 watts. Give it a second before you start inhaling, steadily increasing your draw, for a about 5-8sec and let go of the button as you feel the heat and keep drawing as long as you can. This shouldn't really combust, but again depends on your specific technique and how you load...

You will need to order a custom 19/19 stem from Lamart or maybe Alan to fit an S&B capsule. You may need more power with that, though I suppose it'd be robbing enough heat to avoid any scorching for you... Could try to use a screen on top of your regular load too?

The Evo is much different, because it takes 5 minutes to get heat soaked and then you let it sit on. If you try to take back-to-back hits in an Evo, you will find the second to be weaker unless you give it proper time to regain the heat lost from the previous hit... Here that is not the case, and often the second hit is thicker than the first! Instant pure convection on demand can be a tricky beast to tame, just like StickyBricks, some are never quite able to pick it up, but those who do tend to find it very rewarding at least.

I think the opposite, combusting because drawing too fast. Slow draw = little heat transfered to the bowl (small air), fast draw more air with more heat if the heater is on! This rule working on all of my vapes what I tried.

The EVO for me is really consistent and giving more vapor if drawing harder and for the second, third draw much better because ofnthe residual heat in the basket and goods. Its perpetu heater very strong, around 150W, it can light your J if you dont have a lighter just with air. The glass bamboo at max can be hot like 500 celsius degree, and its just the bamboo glass not the exact heater, using the knob at around 12:10 clock, for concentrates possible minimum.

I think Pure convection doesnt do the job well (stirring, hot spot like first time with the flip brick before using a flipped heat shield, not distributing heat evenly) and with a good hybrid combination tastes more natural for me, thats why I want to use SB capsules just to add some conduction.

Why using TCNi with Splinter, its not SS316L?

 

[Shit Snacks]

I think the opposite, combusting because drawing too fast. Slow draw = little heat transfered to the bowl (small air), fast draw more air with more heat if the heater is on! This rule working on all of my vapes what I tried.

The EVO for me is really consistent and giving more vapor if drawing harder and for the second, third draw much better because ofnthe residual heat in the basket and goods. Its perpetu heater very strong, around 150W, it can light your J if you dont have a lighter just with air. The glass bamboo at max can be hot like 500 celsius degree, and its just the bamboo glass not the exact heater, using the knob at around 12:10 clock, for concentrates possible minimum.

I think Pure convection doesnt do the job well (stirring, hot spot like first time with the flip brick before using a flipped heat shield, not distributing heat evenly) and with a good hybrid combination tastes more natural for me, thats why I want to use SB capsules just to add some conduction.

Why using TCNi with Splinter, its not SS316L?

Yeah I guess if you're talking about a dark scorch in the center, that could be the result of drawing too fast. It really is not descriptive enough to say fast or slow honestly, but you have enough experience with others that work more similarly. Some things aren't for everyone, it does seem like figuring out TCR would help you get better results, perhaps a DNA mod, for a lot of practice with wattage mode over time... I sold my Evo when I had my beta Zion back, only bought it while I was without it bc of the standard it set for me. I will save the Splinter V2 can be a little trickier to master though.

 

[Monk Debate]

I think the opposite, combusting because drawing too fast. Slow draw = little heat transfered to the bowl (small air), fast draw more air with more heat if the heater is on! This rule working on all of my vapes what I tried.

The EVO for me is really consistent and giving more vapor if drawing harder and for the second, third draw much better because ofnthe residual heat in the basket and goods. Its perpetu heater very strong, around 150W, it can light your J if you dont have a lighter just with air. The glass bamboo at max can be hot like 500 celsius degree, and its just the bamboo glass not the exact heater, using the knob at around 12:10 clock, for concentrates possible minimum.

I think Pure convection doesnt do the job well (stirring, hot spot like first time with the flip brick before using a flipped heat shield, not distributing heat evenly) and with a good hybrid combination tastes more natural for me, thats why I want to use SB capsules just to add some conduction.

Why using TCNi with Splinter, its not SS316L?

Usually a slow draw is where the risk of combustion is on an all convection vape because if you draw too slowly, the hot air lingers in the bowl, cooking the herb. If you draw quickly, the air rushes through the bowl and you’re less at risk for combusting. If you draw too fast though, then the air won’t have enough time to generate vapor from the weed and you risk getting a lungful of hot air with not much vapor to show for it. It’s definitely more advanced than a hybrid device.

 

[chlorophyll_man]

Hiya, If I use anything other than a slow draw, the air flow seems to spiral through the load causing a hotspot in the centre. The only way I can get even avb is with a steady, slow draw. For this reason I prefer to use a cooling mouthpiece like the Vapefiend one rather than the Xl8r, because it has slightly more draw resistance which makes a steady and slow air flow easier to achieve for me.