Nycdeisel

Well-Known Member
So tell me, those of you who haved used GG or iso to clean that gunk completely off, whats your exact procedure?

I had tried using both iso and the GG stuff in the same cleaning, first soaking the lower part in a glass of iso for a while, then scrubbing more, then spray on GG and let sit for a bit, then scrub, I still had a terrible time getting it off, but that was on different batteries, so maybe the glue differs....
 
Nycdeisel,

stroh

errl enthusiast
i usually soak the residued parts of the battery overnight in iso, in the morning it is pretty easy to get the remainder off using goo gone and a fingernail.
 
stroh,

Vitolo

Vaporist
I'm gonna go dangerous here, and say try acetone. Well ventilated. Use nail polish remover if you have none.. but be sure it is not remover with "conditioners" in it,... just straight nail polish remover. Acetone will work on the adhesives that alcohol does not.
 
Vitolo,

Nycdeisel

Well-Known Member
Interesting, never though of acetone.

Funny enough, I bought a bottle of isopropyl alochol a while back, and when I finally needed it, I dug it out of my cabinet and as soon as I opened it I knew the only other ingredient wasnt water. It had fucking ACETONE plus alcohol and something else maybe, it was gross, and It was just about to be thrown out, but now maybe I will save it for battery cleaning.

Thanks, an overnight soak sounds like it would help more.
 
Nycdeisel,

Vessel

Well-Known Member
The only way I've found to get a steady thicker stream of vapor, is by blowing through the back into a bag or cup, otherwise it really doesn't work for me.

One thing I've noticed, is the hole in the back that seems to not have a function, I stuck the end of the cleaning brush in there, and its like a foamy,carbon filter type material in there !?!?! Any Idea what this is for ?
 
Vessel,

nedvaper

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know whether any of these batteries (from Thomas Distributing) don't have a goo on them:

Lenmar 2700 mAh
Sanyo 2700 mAh
Nexcell 2700 mAh
Delkin 2900 mAh

Or should I "stick" with MAHA? :(

Any other suggestions (type of battery, place to order them) would be greatly appreciated.
 
nedvaper,

Lak666

Well-Known Member
Related to bateries, yesterday i was fooling around sitting on my couch, and a nice idea came to mind...
Instead of peeling the entire batteries, why not just cut a nice ring out of it, exactly where the MFLB needs to make contact with the battery?

Got out a pair of new batteries i was saving for later and tried it with a normal kitchen knive, and at the beginning it was kinda tricky to know what part exactly i needed to cut, because its difficult to measure, but i made it! now i have two batteries that still have their envelopes (partially) and work with my amazing MFLB!

The reason i did this is because i had troubles charging the batteries, some of them resulting coompletely burned or damaged. I inmediately thought that it was because they were not protected by the lid that avoided voltage shorts. I was not using the original charger, but the one that came with my batteries (Sony CycleEnergy 2700mAh)

Another creative idea: ive been traveling across Europe quite a lot lately, and i want to do some wood inscriptions, pretty much with the flags of all the countries ive visited: something small, delicate, fine and well done, i dont want to have a tacky box, but i want to give it some life...

Im still thinking whether it would be a good idea or not, but first i have to ask, if i do some inscriptions, modify somehow the appeareance, paint or do whatever to the wood, of course without interfering with its normal functionality, would the warranty be void?

I would like some feedback about this idea from you guys as well: i know it kinda sounds cool, but the looks of the MFLB are amazing just as they are, that wood and its natural color is just something beautiful! I certainly do not want to ruin it, but i wanna try something arty and customize it somehow.

Ill post some pictures later about my ideas and specially how the batteries turned out.
Today is friday, lets vape all together and clean the world!
 
Lak666,

mvapes

Scratchin' Glass!
Accessory Maker
Vessel said:
The only way I've found to get a steady thicker stream of vapor, is by blowing through the back into a bag or cup, otherwise it really doesn't work for me.

One thing I've noticed, is the hole in the back that seems to not have a function, I stuck the end of the cleaning brush in there, and its like a foamy,carbon filter type material in there !?!?! Any Idea what this is for ?

I'm not getting the blowing through the back thing? The hole in the back is absolutely functionless, its only used during manufacturing. What are you blowing? No pun intended!
 
mvapes,

Vitolo

Vaporist
mvapes said:
.. What are you blowing?
Owners have found that by blowing through that functionless hole, while battery is depressed, that they can force vapor through the stem.
While this is not a planned purpose of the box, some use this technique to fill small bags.. (as an entertainment, not as a well functioning group "bag activity") :)
 
Vitolo,

al bundy

Vaporist
as long as you can see the serial number you should be fine.

try w d 40 soaked on a old rag and wrap the battery in it ,the glue will come off
maybe goo gone and iso will work. let them soak

and if you have a peeled battery you can see the ring around it that the ground ring rubs on so you should be able to cut measure and cut off half the label

i took off half the label because i also tried the "ring " peel and with the label on i had to use a little force to get the battery in there which means the ground ring might get loose. so i cut label off to where when its pushed in it looks like theres a whole label on it.
 
al bundy,

Surf Monkey

Well-Known Member
I concur with what al bundy and others have said so far. WD40 is useless for most things, but it's an excellent glue solvent. I use it to clean off batteries and it works like a charm.
 
Surf Monkey,

Seek

Apprentice Daydreamer
I wonder how is the box achieving it's IR effect. I see there is 1.2V on sides of the trench, so the screen is doing even and direct convection. There is a parallely connected light, but that is only a indicator (early boxes even didn't have a light).
 
Seek,

Surf Monkey

Well-Known Member
I'm curious about that as well. The company claims that it has an IR element to the function, but it seems to me that it's basically a conductive device. The light has no impact on the vaporization process, so if IR is involved it's coming from the screen somehow.
 
Surf Monkey,

mvapes

Scratchin' Glass!
Accessory Maker
Seek said:
I wonder how is the box achieving it's IR effect. I see there is 1.2V on sides of the trench, so the screen is doing even and direct convection. There is a parallely connected light, but that is only a indicator (early boxes even didn't have a light).


I still have a first gen unit and they have always had the indicator light. I would love to see where the company states that the MFLB achieves vaporization temps through IR...can you post that. As far as I know its using convection and conduction by way of the screen and air flow. I could be wrong but I've had the MFLB since its release and have never thought or heard anything about IR.
 
mvapes,

mvapes

Scratchin' Glass!
Accessory Maker
I just read the MFLB site again, it says that the box is in fact a conduction vaporizer but uses IR charecteristics.

The Launch Box is a conduction vaporizer, how can it be efficient?
While it is true that, in general, convection vaporizers will be more efficient overall than conduction patterns, the performance gap can be narrowed significantly with various techniques and in some cases even dramatically exceeded! The Box performance is much better than any other vaporizer in its class due to the following four factors:

?1 The Box generates vapor only when needed -- it does not waste any vapor by staying hot between hits or by continuing to cook the load after you have had enough. Loaded material can continue to be cycled over any extended period of time, delivering vapor when you want it without ever having to wait or waste. Conscious user technique with the battery can ensure that there is zero lost vapor every time.
?2 The Box makes careful use of infra-red characteristics in its design. While pure conduction designs tend do work very poorly, pure IR vaporizers (although very uncommon and very expensive) tend to be fairly good since they have overall heat distribution characteristics very similar to pure convection designs for smaller loads. The Launch Box is not "just" a conduction vaporizer -- it is also has significant IR characteristics.
?3 The Box incorporates several vapor channel flow features to ensure the absolute minimum vapor condensation. Convection vaporizers necessarily need to use significantly more heat energy to operate efficiently -- heat which must be removed from the vapor prior to ingestion. Any surfaces, piping, or water chambers used to cool the vapor are also condensation sites. Condensed vapor is lost vapor and that means that a big pipe overall is less efficient. Any parts that require occasional cleaning also indicate a significant volume of previously lost vapor. Used naively, the Box rarely requires any cleaning since it delivers the vapor directly to you -- without converting some of it into black gunk along the way.
?4 Since the Box uses only and exactly as much heat energy as is needed for vaporization (the Box is easily one of the worlds most energy-efficient vaporizers), the enclosed chamber can be designed to allow for the simplest and most reliable form of mechanical stirring possible: shaking. By shaking the Box between hits, the previously ground load can be evenly re-mixed to ensure much more even heating. The clear lid also allows for immediate inspection to determine both the effectiveness of the stirring and the degree of completion. In this way, good user technique can result in excellent overall performance and efficiency.
 
mvapes,

Seek

Apprentice Daydreamer
mvapes said:
I still have a first gen unit and they have always had the indicator light.
Magic-Flight doesn't identify specific models, nor do they announce design changes, therefore the exact date of a change is not known. In chronological order, the versions are:
1. The original release. The earliest boxes had a small pinhole on the bottom.
2. The pinhole, which was not intended to be a functional part of the design, was removed.
3. A small light was added to indicate whether a good battery connection has been made, and to act as a basic battery power level indicator.
4. The air intake channel was redesigned to be broader and shallower.
5. An O-ring was added around the trench opening.
6. A pushback ring was added in the battery chamber to prevent accidental prolonged battery contact.
...

mvapes said:
I would love to see where the company states that the MFLB achieves vaporization temps through IR...can you post that.
Official FAQ:
Question: The Launch Box is a conduction vaporizer, how can it be efficient?
One of four answers: The Box makes careful use of infra-red characteristics in its design. While pure conduction designs tend do work very poorly, pure IR vaporizers (although very uncommon and very expensive) tend to be fairly good since they have overall heat distribution characteristics very similar to pure convection designs for smaller loads. The Launch Box is not "just" a conduction vaporizer--it is also has significant IR characteristics.

mvapes said:
As far as I know its using convection and conduction by way of the screen and air flow.
MFLB is not convection vape a bit. The air intake is not heated.
 
Seek,

Seek

Apprentice Daydreamer
I think the screen emits IR photons by heat. Heated objects emit ir photons don't they? When it get hotter and hotter, the photon wavelength decreases, so it begins shining red (IR+red), then yellow (IR+red+green), then white(IR+red+green+blue). The Sun is known to emit all wavelengths.
 
Seek,

stroh

errl enthusiast
been waiting for my PA to get here since 9am, and i told myself i would not vape another trench until i can utilize the greatness that is the PA......patience is wearing thin haha
 
stroh,

Surf Monkey

Well-Known Member
Seek said:
I think the screen emits IR photons by heat. Heated objects emit ir photons don't they? When it get hotter and hotter, the photon wavelength decreases, so it begins shining red (IR+red), then yellow (IR+red+green), then white(IR+red+green+blue). The Sun is known to emit all wavelengths.

Yeah, I assume this is what they mean when they reference IR, but I think it's a somewhat spurious claim. The MFLB is a conduction system. What little IR effect is in play is likely so insignificant as to hardly bear mentioning. At least, that's my read. I could be wrong.
 
Surf Monkey,

stroh

errl enthusiast
if the IR effect was so insignificant, then i don't think Magic Flight would mention it. It must play a somewhat important role in the efficiency of the vaporizer, as pure conduction units are not very efficient.

in other news i am now power adapted :)
 
stroh,

Surf Monkey

Well-Known Member
stroh said:
if the IR effect was so insignificant, then i don't think Magic Flight would mention it. It must play a somewhat important role in the efficiency of the vaporizer, as pure conduction units are not very efficient.

in other news i am now power adapted :)

Yes and no. I mean, let's not forget that Magic Flight is in the business of selling these things. They're going to amp up any and every aspect of the box that reflects positively on it. All I'm saying is that from what I know about IR heating (which is not a great deal, granted) it seems unlikely that an IR effect is particularly significant in the Magic Flight. That said, I'd love to be proven wrong.
 
Surf Monkey,

Seek

Apprentice Daydreamer
If this is how they achieved IR effect, then every conduction vape is a little IR.
 
Seek,
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