stickstones
Vapor concierge
there is a thread on this site comparing the two
Hypno vaper
Well-Known Member
Okay thanks, looks like I need a new piggy bank.
Appreciate the tip, now I just have to find it, this place is massive.
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Hypno vaper
Well-Known Member
Thanks, looks like I made a good choice and for more than half off to boot. Actually the community made the choice for me first mention of the coupon.
Had a great time in California. It was very nice there, but I had to drive through a blizzard in Wyoming and brave freezing temperatures car camping in Nevada. Back to turning wood, glass, stainless, and silicone.
Interesting idea for a tube design mvapes. I'm wondering if it might be easier to just make the connection to the heater a 14mm GonG. Most connections use 18mm. Would need a special roasting bowl. Glad to see that others are using the barbell method.
Somebody asked me if I had a roasting tube that would work in Da Buddha. I thought about it for a little bit and it turns out that I do make some roasting tubes that will work in all of the 7th floor vaporizers that have a 18mm female connection. The same silicone ring that I use for the copper aromatherapy cap and U Tube will also work to allow a 14mm tube (glass or wood) to fit into the 18mm female part of the heater cover. I tried it with my LSV and it worked. Here is a photo of a 14mm WonG tube with the silicone ring installed next to one of my latest HI's. Both the tube and HI is made from Apple Wood. The HI is 1.125" in diameter. The wood flexes when you squeeze it since it is only 1/16" thick. The bottom cap is Walnut.
I better get back to the shop now. Still lots to do.
Edit. I forgot to mention that the U Tube with a 10mm mouthpiece tube will also work for direct draw in the 18mm connection to the 7th floor vaporizers. Just move the silicone ring closer to the glass end of the tube. It should also work in the Arizer tower connection.
Interesting idea for a tube design mvapes. I'm wondering if it might be easier to just make the connection to the heater a 14mm GonG. Most connections use 18mm. Would need a special roasting bowl. Glad to see that others are using the barbell method.
Somebody asked me if I had a roasting tube that would work in Da Buddha. I thought about it for a little bit and it turns out that I do make some roasting tubes that will work in all of the 7th floor vaporizers that have a 18mm female connection. The same silicone ring that I use for the copper aromatherapy cap and U Tube will also work to allow a 14mm tube (glass or wood) to fit into the 18mm female part of the heater cover. I tried it with my LSV and it worked. Here is a photo of a 14mm WonG tube with the silicone ring installed next to one of my latest HI's. Both the tube and HI is made from Apple Wood. The HI is 1.125" in diameter. The wood flexes when you squeeze it since it is only 1/16" thick. The bottom cap is Walnut.
I better get back to the shop now. Still lots to do.
Edit. I forgot to mention that the U Tube with a 10mm mouthpiece tube will also work for direct draw in the 18mm connection to the 7th floor vaporizers. Just move the silicone ring closer to the glass end of the tube. It should also work in the Arizer tower connection.
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cluffy
Vaker
Hello all, just dropping in to say hello. I had a great day yesterday, had to share. 3 weeks ago or so, took my HI to a friend's house for a Sunday afternoon. All went well, but when I got home I neglected to put the HI back into commission, I had a bunch of mediocre stuff to vape and the DBV does that well, so I was set. A week later or so I went into the carrying bag to get the little bubbler that travels with the HI, but still neglected to return the HI to its rightful place on my desk. Cut to last Friday when I obtained something HI worthy: I couldn't find the HI! My apartment is a mess, so I few quick searches to no avail. The bag had the power supply and tubes, but no HI. So yesterday I did some serious hoeing out and finally found the poor girl. She had rolled far under my bed past a maze of socks and underwear. I picked her up, dusted her off and plugged her in. Once she was heated up I took a few mighty puffs, then I unplugged her, took her apart, and after a nice wipedown in Underbutter(I have lots!), I gave her insides a cleaning the likes of which she'd never seen while in my care. Now she's dark and shiny as ever and rests once again on my desk corner... Absence truly makes the heart grow fonder.
Hypno vaper
Well-Known Member
That apple wood is just gorgeous, it being flexible though, that scares me.Had a great time in California. It was very nice there, but I had to drive through a blizzard in Wyoming and brave freezing temperatures car camping in Nevada. Back to turning wood, glass, stainless, and silicone.
Interesting idea for a tube design mvapes. I'm wondering if it might be easier to just make the connection to the heater a 14mm GonG. Most connections use 18mm. Would need a special roasting bowl. Glad to see that others are using the barbell method.
Somebody asked me if I had a roasting tube that would work in Da Buddha. I thought about it for a little bit and it turns out that I do make some roasting tubes that will work in all of the 7th floor vaporizers that have a 18mm female connection. The same silicone ring that I use for the copper aromatherapy cap and U Tube will also work to allow a 14mm tube (glass or wood) to fit into the 18mm female part of the heater cover. I tried it with my LSV and it worked. Here is a photo of a 14mm WonG tube with the silicone ring installed next to one of my latest HI's. Both the tube and HI is made from Apple Wood. The HI is 1.125" in diameter. The wood flexes when you squeeze it since it is only 1/16" thick. The bottom cap is Walnut.
I better get back to the shop now. Still lots to do.
Edit. I forgot to mention that the U Tube with a 10mm mouthpiece tube will also work for direct draw in the 18mm connection to the 7th floor vaporizers. Just move the silicone ring closer to the glass end of the tube. It should also work in the Arizer tower connection.
Vapinghole
Low-Temp Hempist / JedHI Master
Hypno vaper
Well-Known Member
Make I Free....Make I Free!!! Thanks for the welcome.Don't let it scare you, my friend. Let it free you.
And welcome!
I can't stand the anticipation! Alan finished turning my HI last night and sent me some pictures of it:
It's made from Spalted Maple Burl, from the same block that was used in the making of @mvapes unit. I fell in love with the pattern of the wood as soon as I saw his vape posted and knew I had to have it. Hoping that this little guy gets in my hands soon.
It's made from Spalted Maple Burl, from the same block that was used in the making of @mvapes unit. I fell in love with the pattern of the wood as soon as I saw his vape posted and knew I had to have it. Hoping that this little guy gets in my hands soon.
jambandphan03
in flavor country
WOW she's a beauty!! 
Congrats CentiZen!!! 
Congrats CentiZen!!! 
I was going to use some really high-grade wood that gun makers use for pistol grips. Search pistol grip blanks in google and you'll see what I mean. They can be expensive, however. Ultimately I decided to let Alan use his own stock and I'm extremely satisfied with what he made for me.
It is an option, though.
It is an option, though.
Well, I'm just about 7 months into the list, and these awesome HI coming out keep me excited. They look incredible.
I think it's time to start thinking about some high quality wood to get. Is there a good wood supplier anybody can recommend?
You don't have long to wait, I was on the waiting list for eight months myself. Alan has an immense collection of quality wood to choose from as well, I don't think you need to worry about buying your own.
clouded vision
Well-Known Member
I am so excited, I have my HI on the way & thanks to a trade I didn't have to wait 8 months for it. Sorry if it sounded like I was bragging I really wasn't trying to rub it in anyone's face, I'm just very excited for my first log vape.
clouded vision
Well-Known Member
Thanks again I'm sure it will.
Dr. Plutonious
Well-Known Member
So the F-Bomb showed up today. So far I'm loving it with the HI, big smooth rips.
I got a 14mm GonG coming from Alan too so that will be even better.
In the mean time do you guys have any suggestions as to how to prevent weed from falling in the Heater when using something like the F-Bomb? That's my biggest problem right now.
I got a 14mm GonG coming from Alan too so that will be even better.
In the mean time do you guys have any suggestions as to how to prevent weed from falling in the Heater when using something like the F-Bomb? That's my biggest problem right now.
clouded vision
Well-Known Member
@Dr. Plutonious just pack the stem down when you are loading it. I haven't had any issue with herb falling out when using my zap bubbler which has an intake in the bottom as well.
Dr. Plutonious
Well-Known Member
Just did that and already better results with the f-bomb. It's tricky cause I can't do that with my big M&M tech or else I'll combust.
Here's a pic guys:
Here's a pic guys:
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Dr. Plutonious
Well-Known Member
Alright guys, after the first night, I can say the F-Bomb/ HI combo rules. It is finally nice to have a second piece of glass to use, especially a small one. The Lev got a little tiring to use constantly.
Right now I'm waiting on a 14mm GonG to show up, so I've found my best setup is just some silicone with a screen in it. Can't wait for the GonG to arrive since it is working quite well already.
Right now I'm waiting on a 14mm GonG to show up, so I've found my best setup is just some silicone with a screen in it. Can't wait for the GonG to arrive since it is working quite well already.
Way back when I first started making log vaporizers I was looking for input for features people wanted. A glass air path that was exposed to view was requested. I couldn't think of a way that would hold the glass to prevent it from breaking. After I looked at the post by lazylathe where he installed a glass tube over the heater, I gave it another think. Turns out that I had already figured out how to hold a piece of glass tubing securely with the GTV. I just used the same technique with one of my 10mm glass mouthpiece tubes. The heating element fits perfectly into the glass tube.
So now I have a glass core option available for the HI. There are no holes drilled in the side of the glass so the air must come from the hole in the bottom of the HI. The aluminum core plate only gets to 150F since the glass can't conduct the heat very well. I fact, the top of the glass doesn't get very hot. No more worries of little circle burns from the core tube. It is a very durable design and should survive a fall. Two screws is all that it takes to replace the core should it happen to break.
I drilled and tapped a hole through a bottom cap to allow the intake air. I then threaded in a short piece of SS tubing and connected an aquarium pump to it. When I install a silicone Turbo Tube onto the glass core, it blows vapor at me. There is a small valve on the air line that I can shut off / control the air flow.
It doesn't produce the large clouds at 12 volts like the stainless steel core does, but the taste is amazing. It is capable of large clouds at higher voltages. Might have to take it to 18 volts before you get any combustion though. Works with all of my outer style roasting tubes. Has a better fit that the stainless steel core. I may have to make more. It isn't so good for aromatherapy as the glass tube doesn't get hot at the end to heat the copper cap.
I can even install one of these glass cores into a Toasty Top.
Now should I make stainless steel or glass cores? Maybe both?
So now I have a glass core option available for the HI. There are no holes drilled in the side of the glass so the air must come from the hole in the bottom of the HI. The aluminum core plate only gets to 150F since the glass can't conduct the heat very well. I fact, the top of the glass doesn't get very hot. No more worries of little circle burns from the core tube. It is a very durable design and should survive a fall. Two screws is all that it takes to replace the core should it happen to break.
I drilled and tapped a hole through a bottom cap to allow the intake air. I then threaded in a short piece of SS tubing and connected an aquarium pump to it. When I install a silicone Turbo Tube onto the glass core, it blows vapor at me. There is a small valve on the air line that I can shut off / control the air flow.
It doesn't produce the large clouds at 12 volts like the stainless steel core does, but the taste is amazing. It is capable of large clouds at higher voltages. Might have to take it to 18 volts before you get any combustion though. Works with all of my outer style roasting tubes. Has a better fit that the stainless steel core. I may have to make more. It isn't so good for aromatherapy as the glass tube doesn't get hot at the end to heat the copper cap.
I can even install one of these glass cores into a Toasty Top.
Now should I make stainless steel or glass cores? Maybe both?
Dr. Plutonious
Well-Known Member
The HI design just keeps getting better and better...
Can't wait to see what other mad science type stuff you come up with!
Can't wait to see what other mad science type stuff you come up with!