Discontinued The Grasshopper

btka

Well-Known Member
hope they will have enough wpa (mouthpiece for use with 14mm glass) ... and we will not have to wait for over one year to get one... I am very interessted in this new waterpipemouthpieceas I am more or less using my gh strictly with glass...
 

GreenHopper

20 going on 60
Yikes! ToothPICK I meant to say!!!

Yeh sure you did snagle-tooth, we all know you're sitting there gnawing on ya hopper getting buzzed off of the resin. :lmao:

Ok seriously I have also used a toothpick to scrape out built up resin. I flattened a bud into a chip and wiped the resin on it, folded it, placed it in the hopper, hit it and left reality behind rather abruptly. Rough take off with a smooth landing.
 

CroZure

Well-Known Member
I think my question was a little bit confusing. I have some built up in mine too but it is from normal use, not from being in a stand. Does anybody have a stand and notice resin inside the stand where the mouthpiece was sitting? This should help determine if it drips or not. I guess water could be there too if you use a glass piece.
 
CroZure,

Baron23

Well-Known Member
I think my question was a little bit confusing. I have some built up in mine too but it is from normal use, not from being in a stand. Does anybody have a stand and notice resin inside the stand where the mouthpiece was sitting? This should help determine if it drips or not. I guess water could be there too if you use a glass piece.
I have been using Rachett's stand since I got my GH....or close to it. I NEVER put the GH into the stand MP down. I put it in MP up for loading and that's how I put it back when done.

I have NO visible resin migration in my vape so far.
 

lazylathe

Almost there...
Decided to take a T-Break today!
From when i woke up until 4:20 that same day!
Been hitting the vapes pretty hard these past few weeks...

I was also totally lazy... i did not feel like grinding any bud so instead i took a brush to my grinder!
The grinder had not been cleaned in a few days, so some holes were blocked and there was a generous coating of kief! When cleaned, i was left with a nice little pile of mixed ground bud all mixed with shining crystals!! It looked delicious!

Into the Hopper it goes!! Maybe 1/3 of a chamber very loose! Temp setting 5 and
Red...
Blue.Hit........Massive amounts of vapor thanks to the kief....Huge cloud!!!
Not the greatest flavor due to highest heat setting but not too bad!

Very nicely medicated off that one hit!
Total time to medicate, less than a minute and that includes emptying and cleaning the Hopper!
 

ElPic

Take my money
Ok, I'm seriously impress by my first ride with my new hopper!!
Four back to back hit at 4, closing the device between every hit, without the silicone mouthpiece. The last one was hot but not intolerable, lot better than my expectations!
I load the unit with some good blueberry, same stuff I smoke for months now. The vapor is a dry as I expect from such a small unit but also thick and tasty as f*ck, again above my expectations!
For the size of the load I put in the unit, I'm impress by how stone I was! Why do I wait so long to buy that thing was the first question that come to my head after that first session :hmm:
Thanks guys, you clearly guide me in the right direction, now gonna go take an other ride of that beast!

This is Not a review, I'm clearly in Honeymoon!

Edit: I have a total of 4 batteries with my unit, is it ok to charge it back to back in the hopper, or this is not good for the hopper itself?? Not receive my nitecore yet.
 
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sixstringsmash

Well-Known Member
It seems my flashing light issue is now happening no matter which way I have the hopper positioned. I took a video of the problem I'm experiencing. Do you guys think I should warranty again? It's getting to temperature but the lights are just all wonky all the time now and it can take up to twenty seconds to heat up. This is occurring with all of my batteries too.

 

sixstringsmash

Well-Known Member
I can't watch your video right now, but all I need to read is wonky lights and 20 second heat up time to realize you need an RMA. Heatup time should be <5secs give or take a millisecond or 100.
Thanks for the input. Wrote an email to Caroline showing her the same video I just posted here, guess I'll see what she writes back. Sigh, well I guess I at least got a good hour and a half of a fully functioning grasshopper after getting my mouthpiece back. The warranty adventure continues!
 

Gramin

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know what cop lights immediately after clicking means?

My first RMA'ed 4500 range serial would go red as normal then cop light, different behaviour to what I'm experiencing now.

Took battery out and it worked again? This is the second time after a clean I've seen weird cop light behaviour. On this occasion I didn't even unscrew the B/E I only did an external ISO swap and cleaned M/P threads.

I don't like scares like this :(

Also, is it safe to tap/knock the hopper against soft objects for the purpose of emptying the chamber? I'm thinking I should switch permanently to a toothpick just incase I damage something?
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
Also, is it safe to tap/knock the hopper against soft objects for the purpose of emptying the chamber? I'm thinking I should switch permanently to a toothpick just incase I damage something?
I do this occasionally, or just shake the crap out of it.
So far I think it seems alright, but a toothpick is a safer bet and I'd generally use something like that if I can find something at the time of emptying.
The back-end clip works well for scraping out the chamber/mouthpiece too.


On another note, I noticed @mrbonsai420 is selling the same glass piece used for the GH WPA promotion.
I figured someone here might be interested in it
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/grav-labs-7-bubbler-3-etched-label-55-shipped.23489/

wpa.52c23317f270.jpg
 
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vapviking

Old & In the Way
It seems my flashing light issue is now happening no matter which way I have the hopper positioned. I took a video of the problem I'm experiencing. Do you guys think I should warranty again? It's getting to temperature but the lights are just all wonky all the time now and it can take up to twenty seconds to heat up. This is occurring with all of my batteries too.

If it's still making vapor, maybe you have just enough time to order your backup Hopper and get it before this one fails altogether, and before the price goes up, like, on Monday!

On another note;
I had sent a Ti Hopper to HL last week, for cop lights. Mailed out on Tuesday, by Friday I had a note saying it was repaired and waiting for 'final testing'. Then it didn't leave HL until following Tuesday! Now I see that shipping label had even been created previous friday... (Monday was a holiday here, no mail service.) But it is set to land at my house today. So, ten days total, with long weekend included. Pretty good, imo! I'll be happy to have two working again, though the SS has, all in these two weeks, gone straight to blue lights when clicked on, three separate times, each time resolving back to functioning Hopper after an overnight on charger. I have no idea if that is having any effect! I'm hoping for a more pronounced failure before I send it in.
 
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biohacker

Well-Known Member
Also, is it safe to tap/knock the hopper against soft objects for the purpose of emptying the chamber? I'm thinking I should switch permanently to a toothpick just incase I damage something?

I do this occasionally, or just shake the crap out of it.
So far I think it seems alright, but a toothpick is a safer bet and I'd generally use something like that if I can find something at the time of emptying.
The back-end clip works well for scraping out the chamber/mouthpiece too.

Interesting, I can't confirm it right now, but I swear I read something from HL that said to empty the chamber by tapping it on a safe hard surface such as wood. Maybe i'm having GH withdrawal delusions, but I remember starting to do it simply because I read that it was ok. I've got some homework to do.*

I also recall HL stating that there are many RMA's due to ISO cleaning. Well, it sounds like it would be in HL best interested to rewrite the owner's manual to go more inline with their blog post. Starting with their electronic online version, since it suggests using ISO q-tips in the heating chamber.

It felt so weird shipping off my sole and lonely hopper for RMA yesterday! Please let its siblings arrive safely today! It cost me just over $20cdn to ship off that SS w/charger in a small bubble envelope ($2), so about $17-18usd.... hopefully it's the last time lol

*Once every few months, you might want to perform a more extensive cleaning. Follow these steps to avoid any problems:

  • Unscrew your front-end and place it in a sealed container of 99% isopropyl alcohol. Leave soaking for 24 hours. Ensure the front-end is completely dried off before putting it back on the Hopper.
  • Dump out any herbs by lightly tapping your Hopper on a wood surface. Take a dry q-tip and swab the inside of your chamber to remove any loose material that might be inside. Never remove the screen in the bottom of your Hopper as this could damage the device.
  • Turn your Hopper to temp 5 and draw through the device for 15-20 seconds. Let cool for 2 minutes and repeat 2-3 times. This process will further dry out any plant material left behind and make it easier to remove.
  • We do not recommend using a solvent in your chamber. If the solvent leaks down the chamber, through the screen in the bottom, it could damage the device when you turn it on. If you do use a q-tip damp with 99% isopropyl alcohol, hold your Hopper with the chamber facing the ground as you clean. You must let your Hopper dry for 24 hours after this procedure. Failure to do this could cause it to stop working.
  • Clean the threads on the front end with a microfiber cloth damp with 99% isopropyl alcohol. Do not let excess solvent leak down into the chamber.
:D
 
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Gramin

Well-Known Member
Here's my current situation guys. I feel I should be buying a 2nd hopper and RMA'ing this one.

https://vid.me/UR1r

Frequent straight to cop. Unscrew usually revives, but in this video waiting/flick got it to solid blue and she ripped perfectly afterwards.

Every toke could be my last!
 

guyonthecouch

Well-Known Member
Yep I can only get blue when I flick the oven like I do in the video.

Damn I guess toothpick only should be the official method to empty oven?
Def looks like you have a sensor issue. I would suggest not flicking/knocking/banging your hopper to empty it or for any other reason(could move sensors out of place). They're pretty robust but there's no need.

My tool of choice for the hopper has been a plain ol' sewing needle :tup: Empty out my chamber no prob. Can poke open the screen holes in the front end when they get clogged. Also use it to clean the threads.. I have never used the blue tac.
 

lazylathe

Almost there...
Yep I can only get blue when I flick the oven like I do in the video.

Damn I guess toothpick only should be the official method to empty oven?

I always unload directly after i am done. I unscrew the front end and gently work the herb out with a toothpick, always open end down.
Then a quick swab with a dry q-tip to remove anything else left in the oven.
It is so much easier when the GH is still warm.

I am also trying to use only one battery and not unscrew the back end. This is helping a lot with over using the GH! It is just so quick and easy to chain hit this vape and use all of my 3 batteries in one sitting, not a good thing!

So hopefully being gentle, clean and leaving the back end alone will help it last longer....
Never knew Grasshoppers were such fickle creatures!
 

seaofgreens

My Mind Is Free
I dunno, I've done the tap it out method while warm for almost 8 months now with the same hopper and 0 RMA's. Sometimes I worry about tapping it against my shoe or on a table too vigorously, but so far, no harm. Who knows if it is something to worry about? Doesn't seem like it so far.
 

almost there

Well-Known Member
Hey all, I'm about to pull the trigger and pick me up one of these little trouble makers. Seems like more folks with the Ti than SS, is that just personal preference? Are there differences in failure rates between the 2? I'm trying to be frugal and go the economical route, if there is a legitimate reason to pay the extra $50 I'd be willing to do that. From the Hooper site I can't really tell the difference, maybe the Ti is more matte? I do love the look of the bronze Ti but I've read the color Ti scratches very easily, is that so?
 
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