ilovebOObs
can i stick my male joint in there?
Why not just turn down the temp. I normally hit mine at 185-190c.
BillNyeTheHighGuy
Member
Hey guys I have two questions about the Extreme Q Vaporizer and I was hoping to get some insight from a site that specializes in vaporizers =D
First question is using a bong attachment with the Extreme Q. I want to get a "milky hit" but I am having trouble doing so. Should I have the fan on? What setting should it be on? Also whats a good temperature for Vonging? I currently have a small 12" bong, with a diffused downstem and a 4 arm perc, there is a light vapor build up but nothing close to "milky" any suggestions?
Second question is that I want to buy a new bong because the one I was just talking about is only 12" and I'd like a 17" with thicker glass. Any suggestions in terms of glass? I'm looking to spend between 120-160 and I've been looking at a lot of pieces on Grasscity because there aren't early headships near me, anyone have any suggestions off of that site?
First question is using a bong attachment with the Extreme Q. I want to get a "milky hit" but I am having trouble doing so. Should I have the fan on? What setting should it be on? Also whats a good temperature for Vonging? I currently have a small 12" bong, with a diffused downstem and a 4 arm perc, there is a light vapor build up but nothing close to "milky" any suggestions?
Second question is that I want to buy a new bong because the one I was just talking about is only 12" and I'd like a 17" with thicker glass. Any suggestions in terms of glass? I'm looking to spend between 120-160 and I've been looking at a lot of pieces on Grasscity because there aren't early headships near me, anyone have any suggestions off of that site?
WatTyler
Revolting Peasant
12" is perhaps as big as you want to go for vapor bonging. The bigger bongs aren't as popular as you loose more flavour, and it will probably be harder to get those white walls you're after.
I don't use an Extreme so can't help too much WRT temps. As a general rough rule of thumb though you will be looking at the upper sections of the temp range if you are seeking the really cloudy hits. I doubt you would have then fan on, but I'll let someone that uses that vape confirm that.
I don't use an Extreme so can't help too much WRT temps. As a general rough rule of thumb though you will be looking at the upper sections of the temp range if you are seeking the really cloudy hits. I doubt you would have then fan on, but I'll let someone that uses that vape confirm that.
Because I don't think it should run this hot...i've had maybe a 1/2 dozen EQ's before, and none ran this hot. I was curious if it was something I did putting it back together?
I'm guessing it's normal because I don't get much vapour at 180ish, and then i start getting it after 190 and up. Which seems to be the normal around here. BUT i've NEVER combusted until now, and at 230 I thought it shouldn't happen even at 260?
Elbows appear to be almost burnt right in the middle, and almost completely unvaped around the sides.
LOVING the airflow...god what a difference compared to the Solo! Much cooler vapour too (not using water)
I'm guessing it's normal because I don't get much vapour at 180ish, and then i start getting it after 190 and up. Which seems to be the normal around here. BUT i've NEVER combusted until now, and at 230 I thought it shouldn't happen even at 260?
Elbows appear to be almost burnt right in the middle, and almost completely unvaped around the sides.
LOVING the airflow...god what a difference compared to the Solo! Much cooler vapour too (not using water)
MarcellusWiley
Dab Trotter
Place the cyclone bowl in the Extreme Q.
Heat it up to desired temperature (for vapor bonging I like 420 to 437 Fahrenheit) and wait about 5-10 minutes for bowl to pre-heat.
Place the herb in the cyclone bowl.
Wait another 2-3 minutes for herb to pre-heat.
RIP AWAY!
Never fails.
I also like to use the balloon "whip" with the smaller elbow adapter instead of the long whip. This way I hold the EQ in my hand and place the 14mm GonG adapter into my bong thats at the end of the balloon attachment. This way my vapor path is almost 100% glass and I get huge rips with such a small vapor path, still cools down nicely in the bong with ice and water. I was inspired to use it this way because I've been thinking so hard about the Cloud!
Heat it up to desired temperature (for vapor bonging I like 420 to 437 Fahrenheit) and wait about 5-10 minutes for bowl to pre-heat.
Place the herb in the cyclone bowl.
Wait another 2-3 minutes for herb to pre-heat.
RIP AWAY!
Never fails.
I also like to use the balloon "whip" with the smaller elbow adapter instead of the long whip. This way I hold the EQ in my hand and place the 14mm GonG adapter into my bong thats at the end of the balloon attachment. This way my vapor path is almost 100% glass and I get huge rips with such a small vapor path, still cools down nicely in the bong with ice and water. I was inspired to use it this way because I've been thinking so hard about the Cloud!
I think it may have been REALLY dark brown, but it tasted a little like smoke. I think it was the result of the fan and the way the airflow seems to be a pinpoint and thus I get green AND dark brown/near black. I'll continue to experiment but pretty sure everything is working right. I just think elbows aren't for me because they really do need a stir to get somewhat even browning, and very quickly taste like ass.
chib said:
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
If you want elbow pack to vape evenly, you need slower draw/fan setting. At the sides, the airflow is slow and at the center it is fastest. This causes the uneven vaping. When the overall airflow is slower, the difference is lower and the extraction can be more evenly done.
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
Dont set the fan on. It's useless for vapor bonging - simply doesn't have enough force to pull air through water. Connect the EQ to a bong and then slowly inhale, not too slowly nor too fast, there is a sweet spot. If your elbow is clean, you can see the vapor flow in there.
emotion
Member
vape4life said:
I've also had similar issues trying elbow packs where it seems like only the very center of the material actually gets vaped with surrounding material looking almost untouched. To a lesser extent I've experienced similar results with approx. 1/4 or less filled cyclone bowl. I think stirring constantly is a real pia when filling bags (I use bags 98% of the time). My heat settings are generally around 325F to 385F with some occasional experimental sessions going up to 410F - 430F. I always start on slow fan speed until vapor is noticed than increase to max fan speed for bags and "preheat" the unit for 10-30 mins before loading material.
I've tried a few minor adaptations to address my dislike of required stirring with various results.
First thing I did was elevate the unit without blocking the fan intake. There is only a slight clearance under the stock unit possibly resulting in a little drag on the fan. I increased my clearance by a few inches using velcro, wooden dowels and a pair of small "lazy susan" circular bearing sets that have an open center. I can now safely assume any air drag/resistance potentially interfering with the fans efficiency is as close to 0 as possible. I'm not sure how much of a difference doing this actually made but it can't hurt. Worst case scenario is the fans lifespan may increase slightly as it now runs with a slight bit less load - plus - thanks to the bearings my EQ now spins around effortlessly.
The biggest obstacle (as noticed by many here besides myself) to stir-less yet even/thorough/consistent vaping is the design of the cyclone bowl itself - most notably the size of the glass "shoulder" or shelf which supports the flat screen. It just seems WAY too big/wide and severely interferes with even airflow throughout the entire cyclone bowl. The designers had to realize this, but I imagine they used this model/style anyway as its much more economical/faster for the glass producers to manufacture and its easily rectified by ..ugg... constant stirring of vape material.
First method I attempted to overcome this particular issue was to make the screen slightly concave so gravity helps pull more loose material into the direct heated air path at the center of the bowl. Tapping slightly on the side of the unit also helps greatly. As the material in the dead center gets blasted with hot air it dries quickly, vapes and gets slightly "blown" around by the airflow - tapping lightly on the unit assists the removal of this dried/vaped material and allows "fresh" material to fall over into its place thereby starting the cycle over again. By only just ever so slightly "packing" material into the bowl (IMO -unpacked/loose, fine ground is best) and tapping on the unit while filling a bag, I get highly consistent and evenly vaped abv leftover materials.
Still not satisfied and inspired by an earlier posters modification and slight enlargement of this opening to accept an elbow/cup screen, I decided to remove most of this glass "shoulder" and make the airflow opening in the cyclone bowl as big as possible. I took my battery operated dremel with a tile, diamond tip bit and carefully shaved away almost all the shoulder leaving only about a 1/16 inch wide piece intact all the way around - just big enough to effectively support the flat screen. After obsessively cleaning the bowl to insure all leftover glass particulate removal, I tried it out and noticed an instant improvement although making the screen slightly convex and tapping on the unit still helps greatly. OH ...., Just in case anyone also decides to take a dremel to borosilicate glass be forewarned : Don't even think about attempting this without using safety glasses/eye protection and assurances that any glass dust is controlled! Hell, this stuff is tough so full face protection probably isn't a bad idea. Trick to doing this easily/successfully is to use the proper bit, use the slowest rpm speed possible and use water as a coolant or do it under a slight layer of water - this is why I used my battery dremel and not my powerfully precise electric one. Using a dremel "dry" is NOT recommended - It will quickly create lots of very easily inhaled airborn glass/silicon particulates, increase greatly the chances of accidents, overheating, sparks and breakage or even cause sudden shattering. Patience is the key to modifying the opening of the cyclone glass bowl no matter if you use a dremel or do it entirely by hand with diamond files/bits like a previous poster did.
I've even thought about mounting one (or a few) of those small vibrating motors found in cellphones etc to the unit in hopes it would make any "tapping" on the unit (to assist in constant material circulation) unnecessary. These motors are quite tiny, easily available and very cheap. I also have a few other mods I'm trying - most notably different bowl, adapter and lab glass fittings that I found which fortunately are 19mm and fit the EQ perfectly. Perhaps if there is interest I'll post again once I've had the time to thoroughly experiment with this compatible lab glass and have formed opinions.
fidget
Well-Known Member
Great post - please let us know how you get on and include some pics if you can.emotion said:vape4life said:
I've also had similar issues trying elbow packs where it seems like only the very center of the material actually gets vaped with surrounding material looking almost untouched. To a lesser extent I've experienced similar results with approx. 1/4 or less filled cyclone bowl. I think stirring constantly is a real pia when filling bags (I use bags 98% of the time). My heat settings are generally around 325F to 385F with some occasional experimental sessions going up to 410F - 430F. I always start on slow fan speed until vapor is noticed than increase to max fan speed for bags and "preheat" the unit for 10-30 mins before loading material.
I've tried a few minor adaptations to address my dislike of required stirring with various results.
First thing I did was elevate the unit without blocking the fan intake. There is only a slight clearance under the stock unit possibly resulting in a little drag on the fan. I increased my clearance by a few inches using velcro, wooden dowels and a pair of small "lazy susan" circular bearing sets that have an open center. I can now safely assume any air drag/resistance potentially interfering with the fans efficiency is as close to 0 as possible. I'm not sure how much of a difference doing this actually made but it can't hurt. Worst case scenario is the fans lifespan may increase slightly as it now runs with a slight bit less load - plus - thanks to the bearings my EQ now spins around effortlessly.
The biggest obstacle (as noticed by many here besides myself) to stir-less yet even/thorough/consistent vaping is the design of the cyclone bowl itself - most notably the size of the glass "shoulder" or shelf which supports the flat screen. It just seems WAY too big/wide and severely interferes with even airflow throughout the entire cyclone bowl. The designers had to realize this, but I imagine they used this model/style anyway as its much more economical/faster for the glass producers to manufacture and its easily rectified by ..ugg... constant stirring of vape material.
First method I attempted to overcome this particular issue was to make the screen slightly concave so gravity helps pull more loose material into the direct heated air path at the center of the bowl. Tapping slightly on the side of the unit also helps greatly. As the material in the dead center gets blasted with hot air it dries quickly, vapes and gets slightly "blown" around by the airflow - tapping lightly on the unit assists the removal of this dried/vaped material and allows "fresh" material to fall over into its place thereby starting the cycle over again. By only just ever so slightly "packing" material into the bowl (IMO -unpacked/loose, fine ground is best) and tapping on the unit while filling a bag, I get highly consistent and evenly vaped abv leftover materials.
Still not satisfied and inspired by an earlier posters modification and slight enlargement of this opening to accept an elbow/cup screen, I decided to remove most of this glass "shoulder" and make the airflow opening in the cyclone bowl as big as possible. I took my battery operated dremel with a tile, diamond tip bit and carefully shaved away almost all the shoulder leaving only about a 1/16 inch wide piece intact all the way around - just big enough to effectively support the flat screen. After obsessively cleaning the bowl to insure all leftover glass particulate removal, I tried it out and noticed an instant improvement although making the screen slightly convex and tapping on the unit still helps greatly. OH ...., Just in case anyone also decides to take a dremel to borosilicate glass be forewarned : Don't even think about attempting this without using safety glasses/eye protection and assurances that any glass dust is controlled! Hell, this stuff is tough so full face protection probably isn't a bad idea. Trick to doing this easily/successfully is to use the proper bit, use the slowest rpm speed possible and use water as a coolant or do it under a slight layer of water - this is why I used my battery dremel and not my powerfully precise electric one. Using a dremel "dry" is NOT recommended - It will quickly create lots of very easily inhaled airborn glass/silicon particulates, increase greatly the chances of accidents, overheating, sparks and breakage or even cause sudden shattering. Patience is the key to modifying the opening of the cyclone glass bowl no matter if you use a dremel or do it entirely by hand with diamond files/bits like a previous poster did.
I've even thought about mounting one (or a few) of those small vibrating motors found in cellphones etc to the unit in hopes it would make any "tapping" on the unit (to assist in constant material circulation) unnecessary. These motors are quite tiny, easily available and very cheap. I also have a few other mods I'm trying - most notably different bowl, adapter and lab glass fittings that I found which fortunately are 19mm and fit the EQ perfectly. Perhaps if there is interest I'll post again once I've had the time to thoroughly experiment with this compatible lab glass and have formed opinions.
emotion, great post. I'm not that annoyed with stirring all that much, but it is needed. Two things that have helped me tremendously recently... one, i stopped with the elbows. I don't need to be "efficient" and like alot more tokes than an elbow provides, but i'm not just sure how efficient it is when 1/2 my herb is still green. So I 1/3 to 1/2 fill the bowl, and now use the "all glass vapour path" with a mouth piece connected to elbow by 1/2" tube and can easily remove the entire thing from the unit and shake shake shake! Works well, shit loads of vapour from 195-220 with great taste. I can't go back tubing and whips.
ninjamaster
Is ALWAYS THERE
Great Vape! Another Great Product and the Price is good too!
Ah for fucks sake, i've owned so many of these EQ's without a single broken heater cover. I didn't even drop it, I just started the fan on speed 1, at about 220 maybe 225, and then heard something moving around inside the unit. Opened it up, and voila broken and cracked heater cover.
Only thing i can think of is when i overhauled it that when i put the bracket together that holds the heater cover I tightened the screws too tight and when it got too hot it cracked? I don't understand how it could just crack by itself.
EDIT: just watched the assemby/disassembly vid on youtube and no mention of overtightening the heater cover assembly. Only other thing I can think of now and it's quite probable, is that the bowl was stuck and I "twisted" it and pulled too much, resulting in weakness, or crack...then when I fired up the fan it was the straw that broke the camel's back.
Just picked up my replacement ($25) and time to reassemble!
EDIT: Back in business, EQ working flawlessly.
Only thing i can think of is when i overhauled it that when i put the bracket together that holds the heater cover I tightened the screws too tight and when it got too hot it cracked? I don't understand how it could just crack by itself.
EDIT: just watched the assemby/disassembly vid on youtube and no mention of overtightening the heater cover assembly. Only other thing I can think of now and it's quite probable, is that the bowl was stuck and I "twisted" it and pulled too much, resulting in weakness, or crack...then when I fired up the fan it was the straw that broke the camel's back.
Just picked up my replacement ($25) and time to reassemble!
EDIT: Back in business, EQ working flawlessly.
Thanks Chib! This is now the ONLY way I use the EQ. No more whips or bags for me.
chib said:Hey guys,
I ruined my tubing by using iso on it and now it reeks like chemicals (even after rinsing with hot water).
So I took one of my bag glass pieces and attached it via silicone tubing to the elbow which creates an all glass vapor path as seen below.
http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/33/vapor.png
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
This is providing much better air flow which is vaporizing my weed evenly leaving very little to no green in it providing a much cleaner, sweeter taste than my whip was. To top it all off I'm getting an extra 2-3 hit per eblow pack.
I HIGHly
The taste is light years better! However, with elbows i'm still finding alot of green, so i stick with the bowl about 50% filled and shake it every few pulls and stir it too...don't find it annoying at all, and now getting pretty evenly browned ABV. My range depends on the strain but typically 190/195 to about 215/220 rarely above that. thanks again, i think i'm going to extend the glass put with another mouthpiece! lol i'm not sure if it will make a difference but a little more distance can't hurt. hmmmm, LSV transfer wand might fit?
Notice in your sig v 3? are you sure you have the EQ and not the E or is it v4? Didnt think the EQ had a v3?
Notice in your sig v 3? are you sure you have the EQ and not the E or is it v4? Didnt think the EQ had a v3?
chib said:
chib
Kush please
Weird that your not able to get all that green goodness vaporized whilst doing elbows, I literally have no troubles doing it since I switched to this method.
Do whatever you feel is comfortable,I like the mouthpiece shorter just because it's easier to clean and take care of.
Yeah I should change that, I have the extreme q 4.0.
Do whatever you feel is comfortable,I like the mouthpiece shorter just because it's easier to clean and take care of.
Yeah I should change that, I have the extreme q 4.0.
Well i'm not sure what i'm doing wrong then but not only does it not brown evenly, but i get much less vapour. Perhaps i'm not jamming enough in there, or ramping the temp high enough, but i'll keep trying. With regard to efficiency, the bowl browns the herb very well if i stir. And the clouds that are produced are huge.
back to "trying" lol
back to "trying" lol
Stu said:I've never had any problems evenly browning my elbow packs. And I would never waste my weed by putting it in the cyclone bowl once I figured out how much more efficiently this unit works with the elbow pack. IMO it's a no brainer.
thedeserttortoise
Well-Known Member
slowrolling said:thedeserttortoise said:
Does anyone have a current link / video of this? Trying to find a non-dead link to the rubbermaid valve method.
A search on FC for rubbermaid AND valve only gets you dead links and people asking for new links because the old link is dead...
Hey Slowrolling. Sorry about the dead link. I haven't had any herb in age's... miss the shit out of it. Just took a pretty sensitive job with lots of testing... anyway, what you do is just take your silicon or vinyl tubing with you to Walmart. Look at all the new drink containers designed to pack with you while hiking. The tube will fit right over the inside tip of the valve/spout assembly. Its very low tech... but works. Been thinking of quitting this job and getting a med card... Kinda up in the air.. hi to all my old FC friends, hope your all doing well....peace.
Samsquanch
Vapor Astronaut
Hey vape4life , strange issue your having there . I know for me with this unit as with any , every strain vapes differently . Some you can start out at lower temps than others . Elbow pack is the way to go but one better is a 14mm connector with an elbow screen in it . Cut out that middle man , the cyclone bowl , and just use a 14mm straight stem on the heater , the stem is long enough that there is no worry of heat issues for the user . Your not gonna hit harder or more efficiently any other way . From previous conversations I dont think that strain is your problem , that is always solved with temp . If your still having issues with uneven browning after you try a 14mm directly on the heater then you might want to take another look at your heater and make sure it is producing enough heat.
Good luck
Good luck