StemPod by MPL

[KeroZen]

Did they glow? What power were you running at? I keep telling you guys that you shouldn't use such thin wires. They are designed to work immersed in e-liquid, not dry burning in air. Many of you seem to also run in VW mode, so you have zero protection to prevent them from vaporizing.

To be honest, I'm a bit disappointed with what I see here. This vape is just a custom SS RDA with a special body compatible with standard stems. All this metal and machining can be have under $10 shipped from China (most often with glass parts, some coils and accessories, just do a "RDA" search on fasttech and browse over 140 pages of results...) and that's the retail price so I let you imagine how cheap it is to manufacture. Granted it's a custom design but to me it's a bit over-priced for what it is.

It doesn't even come with a special heater, these notch coils cost $2.60 shipped for a pack of 10 (ex: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10022204/8962700-316l-stainless-steel-notch-coil-wire-for-rba) and they are clearly not optimal for convection vaping. The StemPod should be shipped with custom coils at the very minimum.

I'm sorry but the Project costs under $50 shipped and is more efficient (can vape under 30W) Every-time I built a custom 510 attachment using a SS RDA as a base, it ended inefficient. Too much heatsinking, everything getting burning hot (hence the need to have a silicone sleeve here), mod getting hot by conduction too... Plus dual coil setups seem to take more time (or Watts) to heat-up compared to single ones. You often end up in the super low ohms range where the mod DC/DC converter struggles a lot, adding more inefficiency to the mix.

For sure, it's a demand vs supply equation and the two other commercial competitors are also very pricey, but at least they have a well-designed and tuned custom heater, and much more labor put into them. I don't count the Project as commercial, since it was more open source and a hobby to begin with.

I expected to see a collaboration with Ryan @ RBT to put his HSA heater inside a StemPod, that would be novel and interesting... but also probably less efficient than a Splinter and even less than a iHeat. At least it would be nearly unbreakable, and that's a selling point for a portable.

 

[Evilevile]

@KeroZen I'm using the recommended coils that were preinstalled in the SP when it arrived..

They glowed nicely. I ran max at 55w, and usually hovered between 35-55w. I was never too greedy, I never pushed it. I stirred; i charred a few times but I haven't combusted.

I feel the same way and can't help but agree with you regarding the cost production/value.

@Summer this is day 7 only using the Stempod. I've been trying it as my daily driver. Only 2-3 sessions per day.

Did you mean to say 1-6 weeks? I don't know what coils he was referring to, but to estimate 6 months on one set seems like a reach to me.

 

[PaperClouds]

I'm going with TCR then to help prolong my coils life.
Also I'm trying out TCR mode on the P80, but I have to choose between TCR 120, TCR 105, SS 316, Nickel and Titanium. I don't have a TCR 210 like the manual suggests. I always end up choosing wattage mode because it's too confusing. Can someone with a P80 please tell me what works for them?

I know that on my VooPoo Drag I had to hook it up to a computer to enable a TCR setting like that, perhaps is the same with the P80. On my Rx200s I was able to set it through the Funky Junky firmware. I also have mine set at 275 right now. The new-er manuals say to start it at 265 and increase by 10 if it doesn't feel right. My coils are also reading .23, for my friends who's were reading .27~ the TCR 265 was too high.

 

[superdang9000]

@KeroZen I have to agree, unfortunately. I really loved the idea of the StemPod, and I do think it's an innovative idea but one that probably needs some refinement.

As much as I like to tinker, I don't feel terribly comfortable using coils that glow in a dry herb scenario and, so far, haven't been able to create a coil combination that doesn't. The video that was posted a few pages back regarding safety of SS at high temps alleviated the concern for some, but had the opposite effect for me. I'm hanging onto the SP in hopes I'll eventually find the recipe I'm looking for.

 

[KeroZen]

I don't visualize how much space you have to build your coils on the deck. But starting with 22ga or even better possibly 20ga you should be able to build dual parallel coils that don't glow and end up just a golden color at the very most (usually due to the initial burn-in but if you skip it you might even end with shiny grey coils and no oxidation at all)

I re-did a build the other day on a much smaller RDA (using a clone of the Kennedy 24) and I used some 18ga wire and it was a pain. Resistance was way too low in the end, thick wire is hard to work with and you need too much of it to fit such a small space... but that was for a very small 24mm OD RDA, so maybe you got more room in the StemPod?

 

[TNT_error]

@Evilevile these coils in general should last a good amount of time since you're not using it as an ecig. Your coils look gunked. I suggest using like 40-45w in wattage mode to dry burn them then use a brush and dust off the debris. They should look brand new after this. Also tighten the screws as well

 

[superdang9000]

I don't visualize how much space you have to build your coils on the deck. But starting with 22ga or even better possibly 20ga you should be able to build dual parallel coils that don't glow and end up just a golden color at the very most (usually due to the initial burn-in but if you skip it you might even end with shiny grey coils and no oxidation at all)

I re-did a build the other day on a much smaller RDA (using a clone of the Kennedy 24) and I used some 18ga wire and it was a pain. Resistance was way too low in the end, thick wire is hard to work with and you need too much of it to fit such a small space... but that was for a very small 24mm OD RDA, so maybe you got more room in the StemPod?

That's the problem I was running into, limited space on the deck. But, I'm not exactly an expert with building coils so maybe I'll have better luck in the future.

 

[supershredderdan]

Hey guys?

My coils are noticeably splitting open.

That's bad, right? How often should I replace coils? What's the average lifespan?

I only ran about an eighth through these coils. I was hoping they would last longer than that.
I hope nail clippers will do until I can get some proper tools.

I'm going with TCR then to help prolong my coils life.
Also I'm trying out TCR mode on the P80, but I have to choose between TCR 120, TCR 105, SS 316, Nickel and Titanium. I don't have a TCR 210 like the manual suggests. I always end up choosing wattage mode because it's too confusing. Can someone with a P80 please tell me what works for them?

Your coils seem distorted and crumpled, did they look like that when you first installed them or have they gotten that shape on their own? The coils should retain their shape

 

[KeroZen]

Another difficulty with metal body attys (vs glass or wood) is that they conduct. It makes building even more difficult as you can't allow the coils to touch the body otherwise it screws up the resistance reading.

But I'm no expert either, I most of the time end up with a spaghetti mess instead of coils...

 

[Summer]

@Summer ... Did you mean to say 1-6 weeks?

From FAQ @ website:

"The included coils should last around 6 months under proper use." And in a stream he did say 1 - 6 months depending on usage. And I'm fairly certain that Dan said that one set of coils he's been have been in play for 6 months.

Yeah, Evilevile, your coils do look pretty distorted.

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

@Evilevile what firmware are you using with the sinuous p80? If using stock would suggest a change to Sur_evic or Artic Fox.

Waiting on stock coils to post my p80 settings since currently using a hive coil. I like the sur_evic firmware and plan on writing up little guild on using it with stempod.

Surprised to see the coil splitting like that. I haven’t had a chance to check out the new Clapton coils but been hearing good things about them.

On the DNA mod it diffently a better vape experience the temperature fluctuations are much less than on most other chips in tc. If my stempod was for home use I would be looking at a DNA mod. Just a smoother richer better hit.

My stempod for travel use so the p80 a better match I feel.

Once I get the new coils will update the DNA files and see if can get some kind firmware file up for the sinuous p80 with sur_evic.

 

[Evilevile]

@supershredderdan
They looked proper to begin with. They got distorted like that on their own.

@TNT_error
That's a great suggestion and I just tried that. I followed your instructions and it started promising, however the splits became all the more obvious as I removed the gunk.
I ended up tossing them aside and trying my hand at putting on some new ones. Following the video over and over to make sure I do it right.

I don't want the same thing to happen.
So am I supposed to burn off and brush the coils to maintain them? Is that why they degraded so quickly?

@HerbieVonVapster
I'm using Arctic Fox. I couldn't get my_evic on the p80 for some reason. I've been using wattage (even though it fluctuates) because the TCR setting on the p80 is either TCR 105 or TCR 120 and I don't want to pick the wrong one. (I know I can adjust the temp but what do those TCR values mean)

I put the new coils in and they are reading at 0.31 ohms, not the suggested 0.23-0.26ohms. Is that a problem?

 

[TNT_error]

@Evilution I think they could've been bunk coils to begin with. Not sure how it got that way. If you have good wires or buy good premade coils, they'll last a while. I dry burn my coils after like 3-5 sessions just to keep it fresh. Tr staying in TC/tcr mode so it doesn't glow so much or try pulsing in wattage mode.

Coils are easy to make. If you got a 3mm stick or something of that size laying around you can just wrap it around that (like those packs of screwdrivers with different heads. Those should be around 3mm) .

Also a good trick is if you have a 3mm screw. You could just wrap it around each thread to fit your preference and then unscrew the screw, and you got perfectly spaced coils

 

[Evilevile]

@TNT_error great advice man thanks

I accidentally pulled the thin wires out of the leads a bit when I was snipping them, hope that doesn't matter much

I took a picture of the replacement coils I installed after a nice little session outside. 30-42w pulsing patterns. The ohms are reading 0.27-0.28 now. Looks much better now, do you think?

Im using AF, still trying to figure out which TCR profile to select: nickel, titanium, SS 316, TCR 105, or TCR 120. Can someone please recommend?

I keep choosing variwatt instead because I don't know the proper TCR profile.

 

[TNT_error]

The SP coils are stainless steel so ss316. I don't use a joyetech, but in previous post there's a lot of info on which settings you should use and whatnot

 

[ray_b]

I don't visualize how much space you have to build your coils on the deck

Not a lot.

That's the problem I was running into, limited space on the deck.

Same here, it's what's holding me back on the single wire coil builds.

 

[Risk]

Guys, I'm not familiar with box mods at all. I just got the Epsion 200w from joy tech and can not for the life of me figure out how to get this vape to start rolling like I've seen in videos. any help would be awesome thanks~!

 

[AJS]

Sup guys,

I got a StemPod vid up on YouTube for anyone who's interested, more to come as well. Vid had a slow start but the clouds start coming.

Really been loving the mostly open airflow / very high temp fast draw milks. Temp around 470 then I just draw very fast to keep the temp down. I'll do this if I need a real quick rip. It is still probably the fastest 0-100 fat rip vape I've used, or definitely up there at least. After that first high temp rip, I'll turn the temp down to around 430 for the next few hits, as the vapor forms very quickly after the first rip and everything is heated. Perfect vape for those super fast massive rips. This vape holds flavor surprisingly well even at the top end of temps; something I had been worried about following the thread, but was quickly relieved upon first uses to find this vape has great flavor.

I think some people may see coil and be turned away (others may have the opposite reaction tho), I know I was at first glance. Can't be fooled though, this vape competes with the best of them. It was heavily tested until Dan found the perfect combination for massive, flavorful rips. If you've watched Dan's streams and heard how he talks about convection and seen his tests for massive rips, you'll know he's very analytical and will take into consideration tons of variables for the best results. I think he's someone we can trust to continuously bring great products, or at least improvements, to the vape community. It may not be as pretty as a FireFly2, but it has the rugged usefulness of something like the LSV. It is there to serve a purpose as effectively as possible. (Personally I find StemPod and LSV both sexy).

Anyway...this is a hell of a vape. It has served its purpose of filling my hard hitting needs since I've received it. I don't think I've had a single complaint since using it, it's just awesome.

 

[supershredderdan]

Guys, I'm not familiar with box mods at all. I just got the Epsion 200w from joy tech and can not for the life of me figure out how to get this vape to start rolling like I've seen in videos. any help would be awesome thanks~!

start with 40 watts half open airflow, preheat for a second or two then pull slow till you feel the vapor in your throat and speed up. be sure to retrigger the power button before the 10 second cut off timer to extend your hit, I recommend a 10 to 15 second draw

 

[Risk]

start with 40 watts half open airflow, preheat for a second or two then pull slow till you feel the vapor in your throat and speed up. be sure to retrigger the power button before the 10 second cut off timer to extend your hit, I recommend a 10 to 15 second draw

What is a good stopping wattage? So i know not to go past that? Im also looking into installing red panda and figuring out the TC and TCR modes as well. So any information on that would be awesome.

I still plan on sticking with the wattage mode for at least another weak so any tips in wattage mode would be awesome as well!

 

[TNT_error]

@Risk I have the same mod although I'm not using it with the SP. I didn't know how to use TC TCR with that mod, but found 31-33w with a 1 sec preheat at around 38-40w worked well for me in wattage mode. Like Dan said, you gotta pulse the trigger in this mode, and be sure you're not overloading or tamping too much.

 

[Hippie]

I made some new coils

Dual 9.5 wrap 26/32 316L SS Clapton wires, wrapped around a new 6x2mm lolly stick (mmmm Peanut Magnum ) which reads at .52ohms on my Cuboid
It took a minute to balance the coils as it's springy stuff but I'm not seeing any glow now at working temps.
Temp control seems a little tighter than the 6.5wrap 22/32 4x2 lolly coil.
It's keeping temp effortlessly after a 10 second preheat with less overshoot at the end of the draw than the 22/32 coil
Getting better flavour throughout the bowl now too. U
Usingone of DDave's water pipe adapters as a mouthpiece performance is v.similar to my Splinter

 

[Summer]

Hey, Hippie, how 'bout coil pics?

but found 31-33w with a 1 sec preheat at around 38-40w worked well for me in wattage mode.

After you preheat, you have to manually turn the temp down or do you have it programmed to do so?

 

[TNT_error]

@Hippie do you find using a higher resistance better?

@Summer it's programmed. Once the preheat is over it just switches back to wattage mode. It's like NOS lol, but I find the temp is just right if you're not using tc/tcr

 

[Hippie]

Not sure yet. I was expecting the resistance to be higher than my last build and hoping that would lead to tighter temp control but .52 was a bit of a surprise to be honest.
I like it so far tho and the bongs have been rinsed ready for full testing later