Discontinued Purple-Days Vaporizer

[jeffp]

Agreed, that is really stunning. I know PD's are "tools" and not "art" but hell, that's so damn beautiful just the same...

I tend to rotate between the PD and whip vapes; I guess whip vapes when I have company, PD when I'm by myself. The one word that sums it up for me in terms of vaporizing with the PD is "sublime" because it's a more refined experience.

 

[HighSti]

Wow that ash is gorgeous! Has anyone gotten an alder pandora yet? They must be equally gorgeous! Man it's a real tough decision between those three custom woods, they are all quite unique.

I pulled the trigger on an alder unit last week. It should come within a couple weeks and pictures will be up as soon as I build it. Boy does that ash look stunning. It was one of the woods I was debating but for some reason chose alder instead. Im sure I wont be disappointed though. Now the wait...

 

[sour]

Just in time for baseball season, a new DH, Ashley!

I've got a few vapes but man, nothing excites me like a new PD, Especially when it looks like this. Thank you so much, Tom and Pammy! Love it!

http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/3839/img4221.jpg
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/6209/img4222z.jpg
http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/962/img4223.jpg
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/5082/img4224y.jpg
http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/9122/img4226e.jpg
http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/6752/img4227.jpg

WOW nice! Looks better than my cherry PD.

 

[Lo]

Wowsers! That is some beautiful grain!! Congrats Nothing like a new PD to make you smile lol!

 

[IAmKrazy2]

I just want to own every PD i see. I want them all to be mine.... VTac, killer Ash unit. How does it feel to have built it yourself?? I true sense of pride and accomplishment i'd assume. Enjoy the little slugger.

 

[HighSti]

Vtac, I noticed you sanded the logo off. Looks great! How long did it take using what grit? (I have no idea how deep the laser engraving is yet..)

 

[Purple-Days]

Tac I love the baseball shot. Couldn't figure the DH designation. You American League folks play a bit different game, finally figured it out.

Just to clear things up, that Ash unit, is a Purple-Days. A custom unit for a friend. It is not a Pandora or Tac would have put it in the Pandora thread, I think. And please don't ask for custom Purple-Days in Alder or Ash or Walnut... they are not available. This is a one off. Well one of maybe 3 or 4 to friends, the rest are all here in Port Orford.

 

[panasonic]

Hey all,

I've read up a bunch on the PD, and just registered a little while ago (though I've been lurking for some time). I just wanted to say thanks to Tom and Pammy for "doing the right thing" so to speak, I've been through a non-profit where we started sacrificing the quality of the experience for the quantity of members.

Even though I don't think I'll end up with a PD due to my paranoia about solder in the air path (yeah, I know, it's lead-free, etc etc. I'm being irrational), I think the PD crew has the right tack with the transparency, and the incredibly prompt support (I think I got an email back like 10 minutes after I sent a question).

Which does make me wonder--would it be possible to modify a PD to segregate the electronics from the heat exchanger using some sort of stainless steel 'lid' like a mini shot glass or piece of tubing (though I doubt they make tubing caps in the right size in stainless).

Or would the extra layers of conduction (through the stainless lid) and convection (through the imperceptibly small air gap between the lid and the heat exchanger) reduce its efficiency so much that it wouldn't work great?

 

[DevoTheStrange]

I don't think you would want to use stainless steel to segregate the electronics. The way it is set up now works better, the electronics are segregated from the HE (with exception of the heat source) by wood. The only thing that touches the HE is the heat source and if you want to segregate that with an outer shell, I doubt it would be easy to do without radically changing the design of the HE. And you run the risk of the wires shorting out if the outer sleeve isn't made right.

 

[baurman]

I just have a quick question here... If you unplug the PD and plug it into the car charger within 5 minutes time... do you still need to wait 30 minutes when you plug it back in? How long does the unit need to be OFF/unplugged before you have to wait 30 minutes to use it again?

 

[Big Dick Baller]

Obviously, if its still hot, you won't have to wait 30 min for the PD to be ready, just enough time to heat everything.

 

[Purple-Days]

A while back someone was questioning the Dark Fins, sorta making fun of them. And even I have said, without some scientific evidence, or reasoning, I was making no claims about the effectiveness of Dark Fins vs. shinny. Just doing it cause it was fun, and probably the right thing to do.
I was right.

Why use Dark Fins?
Physicists calculate how much light (or heat) a perfectly
emitting object would give off at a given temperature, and then
they multiply that by a number between 0 and 1. Objects that
are black at room temperature are close to 1, objects that are
shiny or white are close to 0. Thats because to conserve
energy, the best absorbers (those looking black) have to be the
best emitters. Anton Smirnov

I was pretty sure there was an explanation. And I was pretty sure the last sentence was the reason, but needed hard science (physics) to back it up.

ps. whoever sent the purple Tritium-MAX betalights. Thanks, I think... It came listed as a backorder and no other info on who sent it just the Mfg. info. Then they sat around here a while cause I didn't really know what they were, then it hits me that these are glow in the dark purple lights, no batteries. Tritium... double duh, but I have no idea who sent them or why. Well I have an idea why, but not a clue who... BTW they are " user and environmentally friendly"... interesting but not cheap. Very interesting.

 

[SkeletonLips]

Tritium does end up fading over time, it just takes a while. I think their half life is 12 years, meaning they will be half as bright in 12 years, and so on I think. They use them for handgun night sights. You could perhaps make a way that the end user can replace it themselves. If that is what you were gonna use them for, I am guessing. At least I think it would look cool on a PD, instead of a laser burned logo. And extremely durable. They use them on guns, and those things are put under way more "stress" than a vaporizer ever would. I wanna see what you do with them if you do anything, though. Keep us updated.

 

[Purple-Days]

Well I assume this 'fellow', and I may have guessed who he is , sent these along as a development tool. Pretty 'bright' fellow.

Just the opposite here. I had no idea what they were but thought they might be a mini mag-lite bulb or something (from the packaging) . The Tritium designation just didn't click.

So I think a long time ago someone suggested an led to light up the bore of the top hole. An interesting but not so good an idea because of the heat and LED's dislike of heat.

But these aren't meant to illuminate something, like the bore, just designate it's position. I think directly in back of the Heat Exchanger tube on the PD's top rim. In the wood.

Jesus, 12 years and still working? I can't find a toaster that lasts 1... Cool to know. Like I say, I just now figured out what they were. Just now thinking about how and why to use them.

I bet I know who to thank now...

 

[IAmKrazy2]

So this would be used as a glow in the dark plug and go PD upgrade? Meaning, you could more easily place your stem in the dark? I might like this, as i often have a pre packed stem or two close to bed, and could plug in and go in pitch dark when needed? Maybe a glow in the dark stem would complement this feature well Tom.

 

[SkeletonLips]

So I think a long time ago someone suggested an led to light up the bore of the top hole.

Yeah, I remember that coming up when I read through this thread. That is a great idea. Would like to see how you implement it. And glow in the dark stems sounds badass too, IamKrazy2. Or black-light sensitive, lol.

 

[Purple-Days]

Well, you folks know how I feel about material safety. This is just now in the WTF? stage... A very cool place, but I always want to see what, "user and environmentally friendly" might mean, on a more stringent level. I haven't looked into it at all. But I see this as a possible bedstand need.

 

[mmk]

wikipedia.

The electron's kinetic energy varies, with an average of 5.7 keV, while the remaining energy is carried off by the almost-undetectable electron antineutrino. Beta particles from tritium can penetrate only 6 mm of air and are incapable of passing through the dead layer of human skin.[2]

Tritium is dangerous if inhaled or ingested. It can combine with oxygen to form tritiated water molecules that can be absorbed through pores in the skin, leading to cell damage and an increased chance of cancer.

Tritium is relatively similar to hydrogen, which makes it bind to OH as tritiated water (HTO), and that it can make organic bonds (OBT) easily. The HTO and the OBT are easily ingested by drinking, through organic or water-containing foodstuffs. As tritium is not a strong beta emitter, it is not dangerous externally, but it is a radiation hazard when inhaled, ingested via food, water, or absorbed through the skin.[13][14][15][16] HTO has a short biological half life in the human body of 7 to 14 days which both reduces the total effects of single-incident ingestion and precludes long-term bioaccumulation of HTO from the environment.
:/

..
of course the Tritium gas and phosphorus coating is encapsulated in a glass vial
so very little if any chance of gas being inhaled.

 

[Purple-Days]

So draw a conclusion. Tell us what you think. Nice quote, but what did you learn?

Like I said, "I haven't looked into it at all." BTW welcome to the forum.

ps. Footnote numbers without reference sources and footnote references are not footnotes... you probably know what I mean. post up (Edit in) the link.

 

[mmk]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tritium (footnote refrence at bottom at page)

Ok to me this is no problem. I don't see a big chance of the coaintainer breaking and you would have to inhale at the same time to get any Tritium gas in your system.
But people on this forum can be a bit pedantic

 

[elhoel]

just outta curiosity what's the typical.......ritual for unboxing/using a PD?

do people clean out the tubes n stuff before they use everything or do you just kinda go?

also does anyone have any pics of the purple days from above i don't know what it looks like from directly above and im curious......


would someone mind posting one?

 

[Purple-Days]

I can tell you what happens in the shop before packaging. I keep a bottle of Dawn dish soap in the shop use it a lot. All metal parts get washed in very hot, soapy water. Working hard metals requires cutting oils and after the parts are completed they get washed and dried. Other parts such as washers, that don't get 'worked' are washed when they arrive. The polypropylene tubing is also washed the same way before vapor tubes are assembled. I have clean hands when packaging and am a regular hand washer. But, you may still choose to wash the tubes. Up to you, hot soapy water to clean them again. After using the tubes use ISO because the build up is not water soluble.

mmk, I figured it was a Tritium look up on wiki, but with 10s of thousands of articles... You know? Thanks I will try to find time to read up on this stuff. It will never be a standard issue item. But might be fun to play around with. Got a note from the fellow who sent them. Wasn't who I thought.

I've gotta find a tiny 2mm bit and do some experimenting. But I have lots of other things to do, so it may be a while. Like I say these weren't cheap, pretty damn expensive, about $10 a dot.

 

[elhoel]

lol i was actually going to ask what up with the dawn soap in one of the pictures on the site or maybe here too

that's really cool, didn't know about having to cut the oil when working with metal

just wasnt sure if they were dusty or something

damn, thats a pretty insane level of care for the individual parts lol

 

[sneezyjesus]

One question for Tom: When I looked down into the tube of the heat exchanger, I saw what I'm pretty sure is the ceramic resistor. Is that correct? Just curious, as I wasn't sure where exactly in the airpath the resistor was.
Really great device Tom, loving the craftsmanship and the dynamic practicality that this vape seems to embody to me. Thanks for a great Purple Days unit!

Question bump from page 211

Also some developments:
I've been dislodging something within my unit on an off for a while now. Back when I was researching the PD I asked several people as to whethere you could smack the shit out of the bottom of the unit to clear the vape-debris that builds up inside it. Since on several occasions i have had herb fall onto the resistor in the main tube, that i wasn't initially aware of see above, and burn up a bit. I'm not a big dude so i thought some smacking was no problem given the durability tests and the "hennesy" user-named dude's quote of "smack it like it owes you money".
Though I've had a solder bead knocking around intermittently as well, this noise is not that; i can do what I'm pretty sure is what people have been referring to resetting the clip with a hammer and the wooden resetting tool, but with some use and a smack or two things start to jostle a bit again.
I haven't been using mine recently a lot because of school and smoking restrictions i've placed on myself, but come summer i'd like this, a pandora, or one of the similar brands to be my go to vape for work and commute, so i hope to get this resolved as soon as possible.

Any thoughts to hit me back with Tom?

 

[Purple-Days]

Sure, if you are having a problem e-mail us. The forum isn't the place to handle individual transactions. We will get you fixed up.

I have said a few times that you can turn the unit over and tap the side of it with your hand. I almost never do it, but if your gonna do it that's the sensible way to do it. And the way I have suggested. After all you are only trying to get rid of some dusty debris, not trying to dislodge the Heat Exchanger.

Maybe you have heard of Newton? Action and Re-action. The heat exchanger is a 100 gram mass, sandwiched in place by a spring clip. The unit has an obvious top and bottom and orientation. IE. the clip doesn't just levitate. It gets dislodged by the unit striking something or something striking the unit. Striking the unit on it's top is how the clip becomes dislodged, and it takes a pretty good strike to do that (or multiple repeated stikes). Beating "...the shit out of the bottom" just doesn't make sense, and going by the advice of some forum member... well, as Dad used to ask, " if they told you to jump off a cliff...".

Once the clip is dislodged, letting the heat exchanger rattle back and forth will widen the 1" throat of the body and even with another clip it may be impossible to fix.

Yes, I did durability tests. As I say on the tests page, "Tested beyond reasonable expectations. If a unit ever fails we want to know about it. Please don't try these tests on your unit, we did it so you don't have to."

The tests weren't a challenge to find a way to break the unit. Beating it till parts loosen is an obvious way to cause an eventual failure. Once parts are loose beating it further may cause non-repairable damage.

Yes, that is a ceramic resistor. RoHS compliant of course. The energy is conducted and radiated to the heat exchanger wall and further conducted to the Heat exchanger mass and fins.