Life Saber (LSV) by Elev8 Vehicles
- Thread starter aesthyrian
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- 7thfloor
Norlin
Classic Rocker
Yes I stir every hit, yeah I think the particulate matter is what's causing this, originally thought it was me smoking rather than vaping because it happens daily and there's not that much plant matter in the bong itself.
I've been told though if I was smoking I'd know it, because stuff would turn black and it would taste like shit. I've been noticing little bits of black, so I'm gonna turn my dial down a bit and see if that remedies the problem.
Frederick McGuire
Aggressively Loungey
IME, yes, at least every 2nd hit (though preferably every hit) you'd need a stir.
It's incredibly easy though with the WPA, since you will be separating the LSV from the WPA after each hit, the WPA is nice and open for a quick stir.
I often stir my load before I've exhaled my current hit.
It's incredibly easy though with the WPA, since you will be separating the LSV from the WPA after each hit, the WPA is nice and open for a quick stir.
I often stir my load before I've exhaled my current hit.
( I want to use it in bed while laying down...elbow packing with EQ does that pretty well)
stickstones
Vapor concierge
Who knows? You know I never change my water!
sempervirens
New Member
Question for those of you who use WPA's: do you pull the WPA when you clear your hit? Or do you just pull the LSV away from the WPA and clear it with WPA still in the joint?
Deadshort480
We're here to fuck shit up.
I pull the WPA to clear.
If you are going to use it in bed then I recommend a screen inside the wand, then the material, then the EQ screen to cap it off. You get a perfect sized load and instead of stirring, pull the wand out and give the GonG joint a few little taps. Your also don't have to worry about material falling on to the inner screen of the heater cover.
If you are going to use it in bed then I recommend a screen inside the wand, then the material, then the EQ screen to cap it off. You get a perfect sized load and instead of stirring, pull the wand out and give the GonG joint a few little taps. Your also don't have to worry about material falling on to the inner screen of the heater cover.
Frederick McGuire
Aggressively Loungey
I've never worried about material hitting the HC screen...
Isn't that what it's there for?
I always pull my WPA to clear my piece, it eliminates any chance of blowback that'll send my herb to the floor.
Isn't that what it's there for?
I always pull my WPA to clear my piece, it eliminates any chance of blowback that'll send my herb to the floor.
Deadshort480
We're here to fuck shit up.
It is, but I've had a few small pieces fall on that screen and they've combusted. It is a nasty surprise when you inhale that, hence the EQ screen to keep everything tidy.
Frederick McGuire
Aggressively Loungey
Ahh, gotcha.
I've never had a crumb combust in my black LSV.
I did accidentally combust once or twice when I first got it (my silver one), but that was just before I dialled in my temps
I've never had a crumb combust in my black LSV.
I did accidentally combust once or twice when I first got it (my silver one), but that was just before I dialled in my temps
Deadshort480
We're here to fuck shit up.
Temp ranges from unit to unit. Like Freddy said, you have to dial it in. I've drawn lines around my dial and if I go past a certain line, I will achieve combustion. I always check my dial to make sure it doesn't move out of the vaping range into the combustion range. It also depends in draw speed. If I draw very slow at one temperature setting, it could combust the load, but if I inhale faster, it won't.
My best advice would be to start low and work your way up while using the same draw technique each time.
My best advice would be to start low and work your way up while using the same draw technique each time.
Frederick McGuire
Aggressively Loungey
A good starting point for 7th floor vapes IME is start at 12 (note, all my LSV clock references have the heater pointing upward) and adjust accordingly.
Factors that can affect the LSV temp that I've noticed are
The size of the inlet hole on your heater cover (smaller seems to give higher temps),
The length of the Heating element (further out gives higher temps),
Power source (sometimes when I've got my LSV plugged in at a buddies place, I find I need to up my temps a little bit)
Then there's obvious Dial position and Draw speed
Oh, here's my latest LSV storage solution (ignore the extreme messiness of my man cave![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
)
1 small screw in my cheapo IKEA coffee table =
Factors that can affect the LSV temp that I've noticed are
The size of the inlet hole on your heater cover (smaller seems to give higher temps),
The length of the Heating element (further out gives higher temps),
Power source (sometimes when I've got my LSV plugged in at a buddies place, I find I need to up my temps a little bit)
Then there's obvious Dial position and Draw speed
Oh, here's my latest LSV storage solution (ignore the extreme messiness of my man cave
)
1 small screw in my cheapo IKEA coffee table =
Deadshort480
We're here to fuck shit up.
My LSV is crazy with its temp settings. One slip up and the load will combust. This picture shows my temp range for safe vaporization without combustion.
The mark that the dial is set on is where I start. Great flavor and decent sized clouds. I then bump the temperature up to the T mark. Thicker clouds, but the flavor starts to drop off. If started at the T mark the clouds are huge, the flavor is intense, but the flavor doesn't last as long as the lower temperature setting. The next small mark is where I finish. ABV is dark dark brown and spent. Anything over that mark and I risk combustion. I have to draw hard and fast to keep from getting smoke.
The mark that the dial is set on is where I start. Great flavor and decent sized clouds. I then bump the temperature up to the T mark. Thicker clouds, but the flavor starts to drop off. If started at the T mark the clouds are huge, the flavor is intense, but the flavor doesn't last as long as the lower temperature setting. The next small mark is where I finish. ABV is dark dark brown and spent. Anything over that mark and I risk combustion. I have to draw hard and fast to keep from getting smoke.
stickstones
Vapor concierge
I prefer to start low and injoy the flavor when I am trying to find the sweet spot. Start at 10 or so and work your way up to 2 if necessary.
stickstones
Vapor concierge
I'm with you, lwien...once I find that spot I usually just stay there for the whole load all the time. Until I am ready for some abv to put me to sleep!
lwien
Well-Known Member
So I've had a 2pc ti SpaceCase for years and the reason that I went with the 2pc is that it provided a finer grind which was ideal for the small bowled PD that I was using exclusively.
My question is this. Would a 4pc SCS work well for the LSV or should I stick to my 2pc for a finer grind?
My question is this. Would a 4pc SCS work well for the LSV or should I stick to my 2pc for a finer grind?
stickstones
Vapor concierge
I wouldn't want a finer grind with the LSV unless I also got a finer screen.
Vitolo
Vaporist
I personally only pull back the LSV, and do not pull the wpa till load is done.
lwien
Well-Known Member
I pull the WPA to clear.
Vitolo
Vaporist
I use water VERY rarely:
When I do, the reason I clear with the WPA still in place, is to remove the vapor remnants that cling to and around the herb and the WPA.
After the first period with the LSV I did pull the wpa to clear... and found after a time much residue inside the GonG portion of the WPA.
I then began clearing the bong with the WPA in place, and after greater time, found that I never had tacky residue inside that GonG portion any more.
All subjective, as I do not employ water much these days.
When I do, the reason I clear with the WPA still in place, is to remove the vapor remnants that cling to and around the herb and the WPA.
After the first period with the LSV I did pull the wpa to clear... and found after a time much residue inside the GonG portion of the WPA.
I then began clearing the bong with the WPA in place, and after greater time, found that I never had tacky residue inside that GonG portion any more.
All subjective, as I do not employ water much these days.
sempervirens
New Member
Thank you Vitolo, excellent response! (and others as well!)
I asked because I was deciding if I should get that spherical joint metal clip they offer with the LSV. Still not completely decided, but that's ok since I have a few weeks before I order it anyway.
I asked because I was deciding if I should get that spherical joint metal clip they offer with the LSV. Still not completely decided, but that's ok since I have a few weeks before I order it anyway.
Bouldorado
Well-Known Member
A good starting point for 7th floor vapes IME is start at 12 (note, all my LSV clock references have the heater pointing upward) and adjust accordingly.
Factors that can affect the LSV temp that I've noticed are
The size of the inlet hole on your heater cover (smaller seems to give higher temps),
The length of the Heating element (further out gives higher temps),
Power source (sometimes when I've got my LSV plugged in at a buddies place, I find I need to up my temps a little bit)
Then there's obvious Dial position and Draw speed
ambient air temperature affects the lsv a lot too. I've used it at my friends cold apartment (about 55-60F) and had to crank it all the way up to get anything