Fully Purged?

[tepictoton]

well here in Europe a quarter would be? Like 8g?

'Normal' yields from flowers should be in between 10% and 15%, with exceptions even topping that.

For me personally what has increased my yield:
Changing from honeybee to queen bee extractor. One way or the other the simple redesign of the tube definately gives higher returns.

Freeze the shit out of everything, so try to keep your tane and material frozen during the proces, only getting it back to room temp or higher after spraying. Freezing everything has helped me with getting higher yields, and I am sure it is also responsible for not having too much water comming into the final product. Because f it is frozen it will stay in the tube and on the material.

Also for vape pens, winterizing might be necessary and/or adviced, especilly if you want to turn it into a liquid to use in atomizers...

 

[Patrick Hughes]

shit... this advice is about eight hours too late for you. Your hash weight should be between ten and twenty five percent (i.e. .2 yield from one gram trees best case, from two grams worst case). The rest is still in yer bud!! IF YOU LET YOUR STUFF DRY (by storing it in an open container) YOU MAY STILL BE ABLE TO GET IT!! just put it in the freezer for an hour, grind fine and run again. Just know that long solvent soaks will strip alot more wax from the plant as well. Optimal time for a second run would be very short. The product from a long soak will be thinner and purge quickly, but the flavor will be bad and the quality will suck. If your allready-run material was in an airtight container it might be trash (worth a can of butane vs. a potential 1.5 g's of hash though.
People will tell you how simple bho is, but you definitely have to develop your technique. Check these links out.
http://forum.grasscity.com/harvesti...ss-testing-really-nice-waxshatter.html?hl=bho

http://www.liquidizer.com/

 

[chronickiller7]

Thanks. The material still looks and smells good. Maybe I over packed the tube? Also wouldn't the queen bee extractor be too big to run just a quarter? I think with my sstb butane is leaking out because the seal isn't perfect and I go through a bottle or two just for a half. And should I put a little iso in the pan I'm blowing into? I've heard is good but if I'm winterizing, maybe I shouldn't do that. And how do I prevent the oil from getting on the side of the pan? But I'll freeze all my material and tane tonight when I run more.

And I'm running into a pan that sits on another Pyrex dish with water on top of a hot plate.

 

[poonman]

Well more importantly, my yield is really low. Like .2. Can someone point me towards a bho or some kind of hash oil (to use in a vape pen) tutorial that goes step by step detailed either with pics or a video? I really need details. I want to make good, healthy oil for whatever vape pen I get. I mean if I could yield a gram per quarter, I'd be happy.

From my own experience , the return yield is about 5 to 1 .
5 g of weed to make 1 g of oil .
Here's some vids .

Hope this helps .

 

[Patrick Hughes]

The material still looks and smells good. Maybe I over packed the tube? Also wouldn't the queen bee extractor be too big to run just a quarter? I think with my sstb butane is leaking out because the seal isn't perfect and I go through a bottle or two just for a half. And should I put a little iso in the pan I'm blowing into? I've heard is good but if I'm winterizing, maybe I shouldn't do that. And how do I prevent the oil from getting on the side of the pan? But I'll freeze all my material and tane tonight when I run more.

And I'm running into a pan that sits on another Pyrex dish with water on top of a hot plate.

it sounds like you are good, but be aware that the material still smells pretty good when it is totally broken down and the stuff is not so great. Im just saying to keep this run seperate from your next batch for comparison. The queen bee is eight times too large for your purposes though. I run 2 oz per run, and it is not at all packed full. You want the smaller one. I have found that with any honey bee some oil leaks around the bottom seal, but never the top, unlike every other extractor I have used. In my own personal experience I have found the yield from honey bee's to be the best, but I did improve one glass extractor by wrapping an elastic around the tip of the butane canister.
Don't give up!! it seems like you are on the right track. I would skip the hotplate until after you spray for safety. Good luck man!!

 

[mlo4sho]

@poonman - I think he means the Cloud Pen v2. I've never used it. From what I've read from pretty much everyone there are much better choices for around the same price. You would be better off with a Dabbler, Dr. Dabber, or VIP1/2 from SSV, in my opinion, of course.

@chronickiller7 - Did you see this one? It has a lot of good information.

http://forum.grasscity.com/harvesti...ss-testing-really-nice-waxshatter.html?hl=bho

Edit: Oops... didn't see someone posted this already.

 

[chronickiller7]

So should I switch from the sstb to the honey bee?

And how can I prevent oil from getting on the sides of the dish?

Finally, what should I use to scrape the pan?

 

[Patrick Hughes]

I can only tell you that I started out with the small honeybee, but I became worried about the plastic composition... not for any reason, glass just seemed better. I tried many different glass and steel setups, but I couldn't match my yields from the bee, so about a year ago I switched back. Six months ago I upgraded to the queen bee, and I love it but it is more work purge the big runs properly. You still end up needing a lot of pots. I intend to buy the glass version when I get paid, and I will tell you if it is good.
The oil will always get on the sides unless you line your pyrex with a slick mat. Scrape with a razor blade, and use a lighter to melt it into yer hash holder.

 

[chronickiller7]

I can only tell you that I started out with the small honeybee, but I became worried about the plastic composition... not for any reason, glass just seemed better. I tried many different glass and steel setups, but I couldn't match my yields from the bee, so about a year ago I switched back. Six months ago I upgraded to the queen bee, and I love it but it is more work purge the big runs properly. You still end up needing a lot of pots. I intend to buy the glass version when I get paid, and I will tell you if it is good.
The oil will always get on the sides unless you line your pyrex with a slick mat. Scrape with a razor blade, and use a lighter to melt it into yer hash holder.

Ok. Can you blow directly onto a slick mat? I heard you can't because of some chemical reaction. Also can someone link me some razor blades because the ones I use are too flimsy.

Really I just need to figure out why my yield is so low. That's my biggest problem

 

[Patrick Hughes]

you can spray onto official slick mats only. The fakes look exactly the same though, only no package. Oil Slick. The fakes are awful poison. But they take some getting used to. Just use pyrex for now.

 

[chronickiller7]

you can spray onto official slick mats only. The fakes look exactly the same though, only no package. Oil Slick. The fakes are awful poison. But they take some getting used to. Just use pyrex for now.

I can order one directly from them if it will make it easier to collect the oil and work with. Is it?

 

[Patrick Hughes]

totally. get one standard and also the small duo. when your stuff is dried, lay the big pad with the stuff on it out flat, and rub the small one along the top of the material to gather it up. It takes practice, but when you get it, it is so worth it.

 

[chronickiller7]

totally. get one standard and also the small duo. when your stuff is dried, lay the big pad with the stuff on it out flat, and rub the small one along the top of the material to gather it up. It takes practice, but when you get it, it is so worth it.

what's the point of rubbing both together?

 

[chronickiller7]

I think I found the problem that was causing low yield/going through tane fast. I didn't mod the injector on the sstb or put it in right. I screwed it on like normal and used an adapter from the tane lid. But I think it wasn't a good enough fit. I will retry soon! So this next time around I will freeze my tane and bud. Is 91% ISO good enough to winterized with?

 

[chronickiller7]

So this time around I'm going to fix the injector on my sstb tube and winterize after. What else should I make sure I have or do?

 

[Busta]

I spray my bho into a mason jar with a shot of 99% iso. I stick it in the freezer after all the butane evaporates. After 24 hours I take another mason jar with a coffee filter over the top shaped like a funnel dipping into the jar held with the rim part of the lid of the mason jar to filter while in the freezer.
Then evaporate as desired.

 

[Patrick Hughes]

So this time around I'm going to fix the injector on my sstb tube and winterize after. What else should I make sure I have or do?

One thing- you might want a cheap magnifying glass or even one of these (Link):
Amazon.com: 420 Scope 60-100x LED Handheld Microscope: Toys & Games
and a led flashlight (also cheap) to check for trichomes right after you run. Shine the light on the material and look for little crystal structures... if they are still there, freeze, shake, run again immediately.

 

[chronickiller7]

I will be making a batch later today. Will post some pics if I can.

 

[chronickiller7]

Running into a problem again! Used a can of vector and fixed the tube ands not yielding anything but a little powdery shit. Tell me how to post pics because I need to get this working ASAP.

 

[chronickiller7]

Is there a better place to get help for this?

 

[meduser#420]

I spray my bho into a mason jar with a shot of 99% iso.

do you put in the ISO first? will you elaborate on your method?

 

[poonman]

Running into a problem again! Used a can of vector and fixed the tube ands not yielding anything but a little powdery shit. Tell me how to post pics because I need to get this working ASAP.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/how-to-post-pictures.155/

 

[Busta]

do you put in the ISO first? will you elaborate on your method?

-> Pour a small amount of iso into your mason jar. I do 28 gram runs and have been getting about 4 grams of wax out of it. I use a glass tube to blast 1 can of Colibri through the tube into a 500ml mason jar with the iso already in it.
-> After the blast I take the mason jar with a coffee filter over the top so nothing gets into it and the butane can evaporate. I put the mason jar in a warm water bath to get rid of the butane. (Tip: Mark off your initial ISO level on the mason jar with some tape or a marker. That way you know all the butane is gone).
-> Take your mason jar and seal it with the lid and place it in the freezer for 24 hours. Have another mason jar in there sealed but empty.
-> After 24 hours take the empty mason jar, fab up a cone filter with a coffee filter which would dip into the empty mason jar and is held in place with the rim cap of the mason lid.
-> Pour your ISO mixture into the coffee filter cone and keep it in the freezer while it filters through.
-> Once filtered I purge the iso in a pyrex dish lined with an oilslick pad so I don't have to scrape. The pyrex is on a skillet and purged with the temps never exceeding 120F.
-> Once you have the majority of the ISO purged I take it off the skillet. It's a gold thin oil slick on the pad.
-> I then place the oil slick pad in a toaster oven for about 20 minutes to make sure all the ISO is purged and no more bubbles come up. If they do I pop them with my dabber.
-> Then I take the oilslick pad and place it in on the shelf for a day to dry out to a wax.

I'm sure there could be improvements in the tech I use. However I'm happy with my results thus far.

 

[chronickiller7]

So I did get a little oil after throwing a fresh gram or two in the tube. I just think the bud was done after sitting like it did for a week. I will post some pics soon.

 

[chronickiller7]

Having a little ISO in the Pyrex dish helped a lot. Made for some very clean oil