Dynavap VapCap

[KurtSmoooth]

Howdy gang love seeing all the cool dynavaps that everyone uses.
I use 3 dynas all SS tips cause I love that heat soak. :kewl:

1. 19m
2. 19m tip on a Hula glass stem.
3. 18m tip on a Fury edge WPA.

Glass offers such a good flavor but sometimes the experience with the metal condenser and stem is nice too.

 

[TommyDee]

Well so it is! What a dumb name for a car!

You and I load the same @Planck . The difference may be that when you draw, the flower is already expanded to its maximal state for that heating cycle. The subtle variation is that I am drawing on a load that is continually getting hotter and expanding accentuating the effect. I am working on maintain the swollen state of the herb by applying heat continuously or in bursts. The direct draw gives me both pressure and temperature feedback. When the pressure drops again, the cells membranes are in a different state and no more copious clouds of vape gets released*.

The asterisk is to say "if you applied enough heat." It is easy to vape a bud 'dry' at to low a temp. This is where combustion is the greatest risk on subsequent heating. You have completely ripped the 370-380'F stuff off leaving a nice dry husk trapping the larger molecules. It will come out eventually. My take on this very process is that the heavier molecules are 'lubricated' by the delicates and the whole concoction gets released from the bulk matter all at once if you have the right temp and the appropriate duration of the draw.

This is either counter to, or in conflict with temp stepping. Others with better rigs would know more in a true study and collaboration. Maybe it is the ability to more closely control heat that makes the above observation simply crude and unrefined, which I fully admit that it is. However, I will stand by my findings as this has been my solid experience for last month of testing the various IH options.

Thank you for weighing in @Planck . I have no idea if this can be done with continual torching between draws. I suspect so. Basically you make sure that you never let the load cool to below what a 1-2 second draw would do. Reheat, draw, repeat in rapid succession taking in mouthfuls of cloud.

 

[notams]

@Planck you mentioned you use a SCS grinder. On that note...

You suggested a Blazer Firefox a while ago. I bought one on your suggestion. Best DV lighter. Ever. And I'll fight any man to the death who challenges that statement.

So, please allow me to return the favor and strongly suggest you research the Brilliant Cut Grinder by Grinders for Life.

On HEATING:

I used a single flame as my lighter for about 2 months straight. This morning, I used my triple flame* for the first time after that pause. Wow! I forgot how different the experience is with triple flame vs. single flame.

I consider myself a newbie (only 6 months of daily driver use). Free advice to fellow newbies: get very familiar with a single flame. Be able to go 100 bowls in a row with no combustion. Do 10 straight bowls down deep and dark and then 10 more graham cracker toasted. Master that single flame with your eyes shut and loud music playing.

Then, you'll be like frickin' Yoda with a light saber when you pick up your triple. This bitch gets in heat QUICK when my triple-dog comes barkin'!

*Reason for triple today - it was windy on my porch watching the hummingbirds. When it's windy those guys are even more amazing. But, DV... ehhh not so amazing in the wind, especially a single flame, thus triple.

 

[proz9c]

We may do a lot of screwing around here but we do like real vapcap related discussions.
Having said that, no. Then again, I've never used a torch. I am trying to get a half bowl heated well for a single draw extraction from a Ti tip using an IH. I suspect the IH heats up the clicker quiet nicely in the same way you mention.

How much is a one hit for you? I get 2 good draws from a vapcap. One flavor, one for the money. The dregs have some medicinal value. I can't quiet fully extract in the Ti tip half full. It goes dry before it releases all the goodies. Have to wait for some humidity to encroach to blow the structures apart.

1 hit is hit for me, sometimes their is 2 in it - I haven't perfected it yet. I try to roast my AVP so its very dark brown (both hash and grass)

It only works when I heat very low, below the cap on the last "A"

I am an current bong smoker so the session thing is not for me, I am trying to convert to vaping only

 

[TommyDee]

Very cool @proz9c - indeed, these techniques require a little finesse. With the different tips I have I have learned there is a very important balance between conduction, where the tip imparts heat to the load in the bowl, and convection, where the heat of the cap and clicker are drawn through the load. My '18 SS tip is best to give it a very powerful dose of heat and to sustain that heat. The '19 SS tip is a little bit cooler on conduction. The Ti tip is a roaster meaning it doesn't conduct heat as well as the SS in my opinion, and the '20 is just a different animal. It is very cool and with my cap, the mass is less in the thin metal so it doesn't hold as much heat as the older caps. Strange nuances but after a while, you get to know them. Understanding them is another matter all together.

Good on you for wanting to ditch the bong. I came to vaping August last year from a very nice glass bong that I was hitting hard daily for nearly 3 years. It was an interesting transition as only a week before the bong developed a chip in one of the joints. Ruined it for me! I kept that thing spotless. I would be ashamed to give it away with the blemish.

Vaping hit me like a brick with a Magic Flight Launch Box. I attribute this to the alluring smell of a well treated Launch Box. Okay, mine was abused before I got it but it had the aroma already baked in and I couldn't get enough of it. Catnip to a cat. I cut my vape teeth on that box and finally got a VapCap proper. An '18-M that's never seen a torch and never needs too! It sucked! The harder I sucked, the more it sucked! But I was able to make it my own with a little encouragement by way of a spacer in the bottom of the cap. That worked for basic medicating. Still hard to draw and still not a pleasurable vape but usable with care. This is what got me interested in trying the others. Well, VAS and holdays is a bad combination due to all those advertisements. So 2 '19-M, a '20M and a Ti tip later I decide that the '18 is now perfect! Why? I also learned to make it flow better! I learned to turn the CCD, the screen in the tip, upside down! Now the damn thing breathes as it always should have. Finally! I now medicate daily with draws that could rival my favored 1/4-G bong hits. That also doesn't come free. That required significant work with induction heaters. But it works. I can extract vape in real time from a VapCap.

It took me 9 months to go from "what the hell is vaping?" to being pretty close to bong rips without combustion. That is what I call Fucking Combustion. And a very satisfying learning experience on so many levels. Cannabis is back in my life due to favorable winds. As medication, it will remain a part of my life. I don't miss the bong anymore.

 

[proz9c]

@TommyDee

Very interesting post, thanks for sharing.

I have the M 2020. I have yet to try the Ti tip but I really want to. I dislike the draw resistance in the SS tip (reminds me of a cigarette)

I think the tip on the 2020 model and the way they designed the airflow thing is kinda odd. The 18 model tip looks way better to me just looking at the design. (Like the Ti Tip but with fewer ridges)

Why do you turn the screen upside down? And what work have you done with IHs?

I want one that only heats the last "A" part, nothing above. I don't know how good it will work in practice, but I think its the best way to simulate what I am doing now with the 1 flame torch(?) - Currently in dialog with @mr_cfromcali to see hear what is possible

 

[Bad Dog]

@proz9c it will take a little time to convert to vaping fully or even mostly. I vape 95% of the time, mostly only smoke when I go see my cousin. Dynavap is great for micro dosing and still fine for seshing a load but for ultimate bong rips look into the New Vape flower pot line of desktops. They produce even thicker vapour than a Dynavap that lasts as long as your hit. It's the closest thing I've found to combustion. Check out this demo

https://newfuckcombustion.com/index.php?threads/newvape-flowerpot-twax-vaporizer.195/post-2762

Once you get use to vaping you might find that you start to use less weed and a single on demand hit off your Dynavap might feel stronger. Check this out for a laugh the things you can do with a Dynavap and induction heater

https://newfuckcombustion.com/index.php?threads/dynavap-vapcap.203/post-4726

 

[TommyDee]

In the '18 and '19 SS tips, the CCD sits concave in the bottom. The cone of the CCD is being blocked on the outer edges by Ledge of VapCap. By making the CCD convex, pointing at you, it opens up those extra breather holes along the edges. This is accomplished by pushing out the CCD and maintaining its cone shape as it came out. Now orient the CCD in the tip in this convex orientation and use a 5/16" tube [or similar] to push the CCD in all the way. Do not collapse that crown in the center. When you're done, it will look something like this;

IH... The IH heats lengthwise based on the coil. A coil should limit the heat imparted to the cooling fins [D'uh!]. But you do want to heat the hole cap eventually. That is what a torch does. If you heat just 'Digger', you are heating a lot because it takes so long for the heat to stabilize to make the clicker click. IH required a lot of tuning by the makers to make it universal to some extent, or at least give it attitude. I can honestly say, attitude or not, they all heat and they all provide excellent service. And @mr_cfromcali will definitely take care of you.

This is one of my more interesting coils. It is in fact about 1-turn short of being long enough...



@Stu would rather us discuss these elsewhere though

I made the '20 stem part of a Lego VC along with the Ti tip at 1/2 bowl and a very hot '19 cap that has reliable click-pairs, and a XL condenser. This thing is the real one hit monster when I toast it to the click in a hot IH. No need to find the air port. Poor man's Omni for some ...a Beast to me! The best taster in my collection. And I don't have functioning receptors anymore.

Welcome to your new reality @proz9c - This thing might just 'click' for you; pun intended to the highest degree of course

edit; @Bad Dog 's post reminded me to add that I also have a situation where more complex setups are not even conceivable so I obviously overlook them. My discussions are very much portable-centrist. Thx @-Dog!

 

[FunkShui]

@TommyDee i wonder if the titanium CCD's benefit from this type of convex placement? the titanium holes are shaped differently. Very cool induction heaters! I'm interested in building my own. I tried building a mechanical keyboard which needed soldering once so I have the whole kit. I messed up the keyboard though so I was kinda soured on the whole thing.

I started looking into buying the parts for a custom IH but my first item arrived (arcade buttons) which turned out to be wayyy too large. I didn't realize a button needed such a large base. The button is over the height of my existing IH! I was really pumped about using an arcade button so now I've gotta work up the motivation again and come up with a way to put my own spin on one.

 

[TommyDee]

We should talk IH in the other thread linked in 'elsewwhere'.

Ti CCD sit flat now in my Ti tip. It came Concave in the bottom. Upon removal for cleaning it never sat that way again. It is flat in the bottom of my Ti tip and it is flat in the first groove of my Ti tip. Fuckin' A'h - Ti CCD's do in fact shrink. I'll stick with the stainless ones. More repeatable

 

[FunkShui]

wow I thought so! I couldn't figure out why my screen wasn't working well anymore. cant adjust a bowl with it. granted, i used the same screen for at least a year

 

[TommyDee]

Now you too can tell people "Ti CCD's Shrink, no shit!" @FunkShui

 

[LabPong]

Now you too can tell people "Ti CCD's Shrink, no shit!" @FunkShui

Try using only a normal screen cut down with little sides bent in them... and no CCD's. It's how I roll in all my tips now....so much better performance !

You can get them to grab the etches in the Ti tips (all I use) or just let them go to the bottom for a big chamber.

 

[thejackalsmark]

Try using only a normal screen cut down with little sides bent in them... and no CCD's. It's how I roll in all my tips now....so much better performance !

You can get them to grab the etches in the Ti tips (all I use) or just let them go to the bottom for a big chamber.

Yep. I do the same, almost exclusively, now. Great pics of this, btw.

Happy Vaping!

 

[Mono Loco]

Try using only a normal screen cut down with little sides bent in them... You can get them to grab the etches in the Ti tips (all I use) or just let them go to the bottom for a big chamber.

I know DDave sells them pre-cut to "size", but I believe he states that his will not catch into the alternate height setting grooves (etches) and that his are only for use in the full-size chamber. How do you cut yours? Do you merely trim them with wire cutters, of quality scissors, or do you use a punch and die set?

 

[TommyDee]

I have a few screens to try. It would do the same thing just because it is a round wire. Have you tried a fine screen like #400 mesh @LabPong ?

 

[Ganjora]

Well, my titanium stem arrived today, but it's too big.
If I stick the tip in, all the way, and then hold the device pointing straight down, the stem drops off the tip...
I am sure the local agents will replace without question, just a bloody hassle with couriers etc.
I suppose though, one it is done, that's it.
Years of happy use.

 

[TommyDee]

Which stem is that @Ganjora ?

 

[Ganjora]

titanium omnivap XL

 

[TommyDee]

Oh that so shouldn't happened!

 

[LabPong]

Yep. I do the same, almost exclusively, now. Great pics of this, btw.
Happy Vaping!

Good deal fellow normal screen only dynavaper! Thanks

I know DDave sells them pre-cut to "size", but I believe he states that his will not catch into the alternate height setting grooves (etches) and that his are only for use in the full-size chamber. How do you cut yours? Do you merely trim them with wire cutters, of quality scissors, or do you use a punch and die set?

With all my screen needs....I cut and shape them all myself. I have 1 inch 3/4, and 1/2 inch stock. I simply use some small metal scissors and cut as close to shape as possible. The quality of scissors will help or hinder this process....you just need strong sharp ones....dont get any with plastic handles.

I have a few screens to try. It would do the same thing just because it is a round wire. Have you tried a fine screen like #400 mesh @LabPong ?

I do no like the finer meshes......too weak and all they do is clog and gunk up quick. I am talking the mesh that is fine like a typical rimmed basket screen. When I tried using the smaller meshed ones..even like a arizer stem screen.....they just do not have enough strength to stay in place...as soon as you use a pick to stir...they move around. So early on I found a normal 3/4 inch SS screen works for everything.....you just have to cut or shape them.

 

[TommyDee]

Great point of view @LabPong - hadn't though it through from that perspective.

I have #40 screens

 

[TheThriftDrifter]

@LabPong Do the mesh screens change the airflow characteristics much?

 

[LabPong]

@LabPong Do the mesh screens change the airflow characteristics much?

I can not notice anything with airflow directions....but there is more airflow through the load as there is less restriction. I can extract a larger load much faster.

IE....bigger loads, bigger taste, bigger vapor.

 

[letter never sent]

I know DDave sells them pre-cut to "size", but I believe he states that his will not catch into the alternate height setting grooves (etches) and that his are only for use in the full-size chamber. How do you cut yours? Do you merely trim them with wire cutters, of quality scissors, or do you use a punch and die set?

Yeah, DDave's screens definitely won't fit in the smaller bowl grooves. The ones I got from him wouldn't stay put at all, though. Haven't really been able to use em because of that.