Dynavap VapCap

[paehtod]

Great pics, I do the same with the SS mesh although I use 120u rosin pressing mesh.

The finer mesh is much easier to cut as it still holds together.

I gave up on the hemp filter because it always grossed me out and I was changing weekly but with the SS screen I can get away with monthly. I do however tend to run mine through an MFLB Orbiter:

These days I don't even bother with the water.

Man i just try it dry with my D020 and it is awesome! the vapor is just cool as like with water but keep more the favor.

 

[hinglemccringleberry]

10 months into ownership, yet 1 week ago I made another technique adjustment that increased the performance of my titanium tip VC. I decided to try harder mouthpulls followed by a lungpull but overall a much shorter draw length than before. What a difference. THERE are my monster clouds! I basically cut my draw time in half or more. I mouthpull vigorously w/ carb closed at the beginnng followed by a brief lungpull w/ open carb at the end. Now Im blowing big-ass satisfying clouds from a 5-6 second hit that easily rivals my best e-vape.
So my tips for best performance out of the Ti tip are:
-very dry herb (ground or unground), this is so important.
-stay out of the cold weather unless you have a quad flame torch. i use a dual and its great for moderate to hot ambient temps. I dont like single flames, they take too long and roasting wont be as even. Unless youre in death valley in the middle of July.
-strong mouthpulls w/ closed carb at the beginning of the cycles where its up to temp, with your draw duration just a fraction of the time between hot and cool clicks. End with an easy lungpull for that big lungbusting feeling. Drawing steadily for the entire cycle doesnt work as good.

 

[VanCough]

I only have the Vapcap M, but do you all realize that it fits PERFECTLY in a 10mm glass?
I got a 14mm male to 10mm female and it works incredibly with no adapters.

I read this a while back and have been curious ever since.

If I understand correctly that means you can use any standard cigarette shaped vapcap with any bong that has a 10mm female?

Does it form an airtight seal?

I've been too scepticle to purchase a 10mm piece to try it because all female joints are tapered so I'm doubtful it'll seal well?

Hope I'm wrong though as there are some awesome 10mm pieces about atm with the market changing towards dabbing and portability. Also, it means I could afford some proper glass (not china) because smaller pieces tend to be a little cheaper

 

[Dynalowrider]

Someone, (a stem maker), told me that wood sands easier with the grain than across the grain. Makes since, which means "wong"s are slightly out of round. That being said wongs leak in a ground glass joint. Do you want to fix that leak?
Stop by your local hookah shop and pickup "hose grommets". They are little silicone cones. The ones I like are called "Nyla" style. I turn one wrong side out, and leave it in my glass joints. No matter what you use in that joint, it doesn't leak. It also keeps you from clinking the metal mouthpiece against the glass. Doc

 

[Winegums]

I read this a while back and have been curious ever since.

If I understand correctly that means you can use any standard cigarette shaped vapcap with any bong that has a 10mm female?

Does it form an airtight seal?

I've been too scepticle to purchase a 10mm piece to try it because all female joints are tapered so I'm doubtful it'll seal well?

Hope I'm wrong though as there are some awesome 10mm pieces about atm with the market changing towards dabbing and portability. Also, it means I could afford some proper glass (not china) because smaller pieces tend to be a little cheaper

Any circular object will pretty much seal in a female glass joint. There might be a slight bit of leakage but it will work.

Someone, (a stem maker), told me that wood sands easier with the grain than across the grain. Makes since, which means "wong"s are slightly out of round...Doc

It's the end grain that really has a huge difference in hardness when sanding. Which causes high and low spots on the sides of the stem, which is the long way of saying an "oval" shape => 0. If the grain is oriented parallel to the axis of rotation when the stem blank is constructed it avoids this problem. So it's possible to make a very round stem that will seal nearly perfectly if the right steps are taken, just not as easy as one would hope.

I want to try to make a taper grinding setup that will allow me to use any orientation and materials I'd like while maintaining a good surface finish. I think if I can get it up to 220 grit it won't change shape too much and I can hand sand it from 320 to 600 grit with no issues.

 

[GreenHopper]

I’m sure I’ve mentioned before that my ‘caps just do not gunk up. Perhaps I just don’t use it as much as I think I do, but my other gear gets cleaned every couple weeks, and I’ve not bothered to clean M or Omni in months.

Just checked Omni, and it looks like it will want an ethanol wash in the next couple months: some resin in the throat, and in the condenser shaft, but not much at all & the screen and bowl interior are bare of any buildup. Flavor is still fine.

Hello bud, I'm curious what your draw technique is like.

I too don't find my VC's clog up all that often either.

I tend to load up a full bowl (SS-Tip ATM) and do a long lung pull click-to-click. If I still see vapor in the glass water tool I keep pulling until it's mostly clear, then I pull the VC out of the glass for a final carb/clearing of the glass. All done in one continuous lung draw.

The reason I'm curious is I'm wondering if draw technique affects how much vapor condenses on the inside of the VC.

10 months into ownership, yet 1 week ago I made another technique adjustment that increased the performance of my titanium tip VC. I decided to try harder mouthpulls followed by a lungpull but overall a much shorter draw length than before. What a difference. THERE are my monster clouds! I basically cut my draw time in half or more. I mouthpull vigorously w/ carb closed at the beginnng followed by a brief lungpull w/ open carb at the end. Now Im blowing big-ass satisfying clouds from a 5-6 second hit that easily rivals my best e-vape.
So my tips for best performance out of the Ti tip are:
-very dry herb (ground or unground), this is so important.
-stay out of the cold weather unless you have a quad flame torch. i use a dual and its great for moderate to hot ambient temps. I dont like single flames, they take too long and roasting wont be as even. Unless youre in death valley in the middle of July.
-strong mouthpulls w/ closed carb at the beginning of the cycles where its up to temp, with your draw duration just a fraction of the time between hot and cool clicks. End with an easy lungpull for that big lungbusting feeling. Drawing steadily for the entire cycle doesnt work as good.

Hi @mccringleberry, as above I'm curious to see if you notice a difference in the amount your VC gunks up now that you have changed your draw technique.

I have no evidence to support this hypothesis but I'm going to put it out there anyway.

I'm wondering if the long continuous lung pull keeps the vapor moving through the VC so that it has less opportunity to condense on the inside.

While a slower more staggered mouth pull or mouth pull + lung pull method causes a short period where vapor is suspended in the VC giving it more time to condense.

Will be interesting to see what you guys observe.

 

[Jethro]

Curious, do the Vong bodies seal well in a 14mm piece? I will probably skip a Vong body if they need an additional seal or gasket because it's easy to make a standard cap work in a 14mm piece with a rubber mouthpiece.

 

[Winegums]

Curious, do the Vong bodies seal well in a 14mm piece? I will probably skip a Vong body if they need an additional seal or gasket because it's easy to make a standard cap work in a 14mm piece with a rubber mouthpiece.

They should seal well in a 14mm piece without any sort of gasket needed. If it doesn't seal I would recommend contacting the stem/body maker about the fitment. Pefecting that (wooden) taper and ensuring it's round through all your processes is arguably the hardest part about making a VonG unless you have CNC or a taper cutting lathe.

 

[Jethro]

Good news. I'm sure the ones directly from DynaVap are good.

Winegums, you also have some tasty pieces. I need to do some thinking...

 

[snackmaster]

Honestly, I don't think the v1 nonavong bodies sealed all that well, and I imagine that may have been one factor that drove the redesign. The new v2s look much better.

 

[Drexciya]

My v1 seals good enough. And my 10 mm Wong works perfectly with my omni without additional sealing.

 

[WoodVillain]

I put the 7 fin Ti tip on the M.
I put the modified M tip on the straight gong.
I put the new 5 fin Ti tip on the old omni body.

I'm waiting on an 18/14mm reducer before i can try through water. The glass gong works well as a stem and mouthpiece too though. The fit is very tight and secure. Doubt I'll vape through water often but i want to try it. This glass piece will get used straight up mostly... Until i break it. Which is a guarantee... I give it 2 weeks

The M with Ti tip works wonderfully as lots of us already know. A nice improvement on air flow. More than just filing grooves on the ss tip. Which i have also done.

The omni is still the most bestest... I can't say i honestly notice much if any functional difference between the old and new tip... I'm not timing the heat up and cool down either... but they seem close to the same as far as in use performance.

 

[Dynalowrider]

Try dry glass. It works to cool the vapor, without losing flavor. Even if I want to use water, the first draw is without water so I get as much taste as I can get. I then move on to water. Geez folks, it doesn't cost anything to leave the water out of the glass. Just try it you will like it. Doc

 

[WoodVillain]

Try dry glass. It works to cool the vapor, without losing flavor. Even if I want to use water, the first draw is without water so I get as much taste as I can get. I then move on to water. Geez folks, it doesn't cost anything to leave the water out of the glass. Just try it you will like it. Doc

I would... But I'm waiting on a reducer... Ordered yesterday. Bubbler is 18mm.. Stem is 14mm.

I don't have any problem with hot vapor or harshness... Actually i think i enjoy it. I'm only trying the water bubbler just to say i tried it.

 

[xlr8shun]

you know what they say @Dynalowrider, cant teach an old dog new tricks..

 

[Dynavaper]

Try dry glass. It works to cool the vapor, without losing flavor. Even if I want to use water, the first draw is without water so I get as much taste as I can get. I then move on to water. Geez folks, it doesn't cost anything to leave the water out of the glass. Just try it you will like it. Doc

Oh dear! The idea would never have come to my mind (a water bubbler without water - eh?), but I just tried it. One should listen to the elders more often! Great stuff. I really feel no difference to using it with water, just that the flavour is even more intense. Thank you very much for the great hint. I will now go through your posting history and am sure to find some more real gems there! Damn, I wish I could hit the "like" button more than once...

 

[Nilsson]

I am a long time vapman user. I use the Vapman with a storm 14mm glass adapter as mouth piece. In the glass adapter i put a 9mm active charcoal filter. This works really well and i already found a solution to use a smoking pipe with the vapcap and an ac filter.

But its a big setup and it would be really nice to have a filter-midsection for the vapcap. Does something like this exist already from an independent maker? It could be a little metal/titanium pipe with a filter insert as midsection between the body and the bowl.

Do you have other solutions for using ac filters with the vapcap?

 

[LabPong]

I use 2 FG silicone o-rings. The clear one is larger and acts as the depth setting and the black one seals it off perfectly in 10 or 14mm joints.

stop drooling all over my nectar collection bro! hehehehe


notice the nice ring of buildup off the drip tip edge......one of these days ....just one of these days......to the moon!

 

[Summer]

I put the modified M tip on the straight gong.

Where did you get that gong? Are both ends 14mm or 10mm on the tip end. Do you have silicone or something securing the tip in?[/QUOTE]

 

[WoodVillain]

Where did you get that gong? Are both ends 14mm or 10mm on the tip end. Do you have silicone or something securing the tip in?

[/QUOTE]

The gong came from member @Alan and was like $13 with a couple silicone sleeves.

It's 10mm on the tip end and there is a small silicone sleeve to insure a real tight fit.

Works well! He also has 18mm gongs that work too!

I also got a few of his fine mesh basket screens that fit the vapcap, but haven't played with them yet.

 

[hinglemccringleberry]

@mccringleberry, as above I'm curious to see if you notice a difference in the amount your VC gunks up now that you have changed your draw technique.

I have no evidence to support this hypothesis but I'm going to put it out there anyway.

I'm wondering if the long continuous lung pull keeps the vapor moving through the VC so that it has less opportunity to condense on the inside.

While a slower more staggered mouth pull or mouth pull + lung pull method causes a short period where vapor is suspended in the VC giving it more time to condense.

Will be interesting to see what you guys observe.

Hmm, Im not sure. I would think it wouldnt make a big difference, not enough to influence cleaning schedules. And I cant use the condenser tunnel to tell because I run cotton filters between the tip and body, which get changed every 2 sessions, so the tunnel stays clean. The cotton collects stuff but its impossible for me to say which method collects more.. I would have to go by what collects in the tip and it would take awhile to determine because i clean the tip every few weeks. (takes like 30 seconds to clean w/ qtips and alcohol lol)

 

[snaffle]

I am a long time vapman user. I use the Vapman with a storm 14mm glass adapter as mouth piece. In the glass adapter i put a 9mm active charcoal filter. This works really well and i already found a solution to use a smoking pipe with the vapcap and an ac filter.

But its a big setup and it would be really nice to have a filter-midsection for the vapcap. Does something like this exist already from an independent maker? It could be a little metal/titanium pipe with a filter insert as midsection between the body and the bowl.

Do you have other solutions for using ac filters with the vapcap?

Out of curiousity what are you seeking to filter out with an active charcoal filter? Is there much other than terpenes and cannabinoids that is vaporised at the temperatures we use? I haven't seen anything dangerous listed.

A quite common filter technique is @Squiby's "hemp filter sandwich", which is explained in detail here: http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/dynavap-vapcap.18853/page-295#post-1034430 You need a Ti tip (so not an M), and then put a disc of hemp fiber in the bottom of it, sandwiched between two screens. This works well for filtering out plant matter.

But maybe with an ac filter you're looking to remove other things? I haven't seen anyone mention any ac filter modifications to vapcaps.

 

[Nilsson]

@snaffle: I am not sure what these filters are filtering, but it makes the vapor much more comfortable for me. I am not using it for healthy reasons. Without filter, i have to cough a lot. With filter, it is way less coughing for me. It is also less taste with a filter, but has imo the same effect as without a filter.

 

[snaffle]

@snaffle: I am not sure what these filters are filtering, but it makes the vapor much more comfortable for me. I am not using it for healthy reasons. Without filter, i have to cough a lot. With filter, it is way less coughing for me. It is also less taste with a filter, but has imo the same effect as without a filter.

Great, sounds like the hemp filter sandwich option I linked above should work well for you. Several others with sensitive lungs have found it makes a big difference to their comfort. Give that thread a read and see what you think.

 

[Summer]

@Nilsson, some users even insert the organic hemp or cotton in between the condenser & the tip or instead of sandwiching between 2 screens, just behind the screen. I guess you can try putting a thin piece of charcoal filter between 2 screens.

@LabPong,

-what are FG o-rings?
-what is that black tip made of?
-where did you get the glass -- just a straight 10mm piece?


When lubing the o-rings, can I leave them in place & just do it on the outside of the ring or do I have to remove the them?