Dustin McKief

Well-Known Member
I don't know if the Koil Boi has a depth adjustment, but if it does you need to increase it so the tip is farther inside the induction field. If the field is focused closer to the click discs, you'll get zero to light vapor. Keep adjusting it deeper until you're happy with the vapor production and then make a mark so you can return to it.
 

Perfect_Speed4069

I am the beetle in a box that only you can see
im pretty sure they wont fit my IH.
You can also buy some amazing torches from AE. I'm not sure anyone would want to use an IH using one of these even if it fitted. They work very differently to captive caps
 
Perfect_Speed4069,

Gnome34

Well-Known Member
I don't know if the Koil Boi has a depth adjustment, but if it does you need to increase it so the tip is farther inside the induction field. If the field is focused closer to the click discs, you'll get zero to light vapor. Keep adjusting it deeper until you're happy with the vapor production and then make a mark so you can return to it.
Unless they increased the height of these new tips I don't think a depth adjustment would change anything. The induction heater works perfectly on all of my other dynavaps and with the old caps.

It's these new captive caps me thinks.
 
Gnome34,

Dustin McKief

Well-Known Member
Unless they increased the height of these new tips I don't think a depth adjustment would change anything. The induction heater works perfectly on all of my other dynavaps and with the old caps.

It's these new captive caps me thinks.
I would return that particular cap if it clicks in 4-6 seconds while all of your others are clicking normally (at the same depth).
 
Dustin McKief,
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Gnome34

Well-Known Member
I would return that particular cap if it clicks in 4-6 seconds while all of your others are clicking normally (at the same depth).
If it was just a one off experience I would. Every single captive cap I've used has been far worse than the 2018-2021(I think?) caps.

It's my only complaint with the entire dynavap ecosystem. The cap quality has tanked. You're right though, I think I will reach out to them and see if I can swap these for the old style or something.
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Does the captive cap rattle on the m7?
Pretty much does not. The indent is captured by a groove which significantly limits the amount it can move. You can easily turn it by hand but there's not much room for it to rattle. The Helix has this feature too. With my M7 there's no rattle; with the Helixes there's a very slight rattle, but that may have to do with cap tightness, etc. Below is the cap pulled slightly off; you can see the groove the indents snap into just below the cap and above the bulbous mass.
IMG-7314.jpg
 

Gnome34

Well-Known Member
Pretty much does not. The indent is captured by a groove which significantly limits the amount it can move. You can easily turn it by hand but there's not much room for it to rattle. The Helix has this feature too. With my M7 there's no rattle; with the Helixes there's a very slight rattle, but that may have to do with cap tightness, etc. Below is the cap pulled slightly off; you can see the groove the indents snap into just below the cap and above the bulbous mass.
IMG-7314.jpg
Does your captive cap provide vapor after the second reheat in an induction heater?

None of my 4 caps provide vapor until the third cycle. Making sure they click twice, fit properly, etc etc. not my first dynavap rodeo.

Apparently people here think it's funny to have this many defective caps. Must just be my luck!
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Does your captive cap provide vapor after the second reheat in an induction heater?
On my M7? Generally yes. I think my IHs heat it more conservatively than I do with a torch.
None of my 4 caps provide vapor until the third cycle. Making sure they click twice, fit properly, etc etc. not my first dynavap rodeo.
This sounds to me like your IH is tuned too 'fast,' not allowing for a full heatsoak of the bowl before the cap heats to the clicks. Which IH are you using? Does it seem much different heating an SS tip compared to a Ti one?
 

Gnome34

Well-Known Member
On my M7? Generally yes. I think my IHs heat it more conservatively than I do with a torch.

This sounds to me like your IH is tuned too 'fast,' not allowing for a full heatsoak of the bowl before the cap heats to the clicks. Which IH are you using? Does it seem much different heating an SS tip compared to a Ti one?
I'm using a Koil Boi induction heater. It works well with *any* tip using my older caps. It does not produce vapor with the new captive caps until the 3rd heat up cycle regardless of the tip.

Seems kind of impossible that I got 4 bad captive caps in a row and no one else here has had issues with their captive caps.
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
I'm using a Koil Boi induction heater. It works well with *any* tip using my older caps. It does not produce vapor with the new captive caps until the 3rd heat up cycle regardless of the tip.
I'm afraid I don't know much about those but I wonder if they have any built-in adjustability, or known hacks? Like some have a movable tube, others can be adjusted with cork or silicon discs, etc. Have you seen discussion of this cap phenomenon or these types of adjustments in the KB threads?

Maybe your KB is tuned for older, ferrous caps and doesn't interact as well with the newer formulation, but it's interesting that it's that stark. My IHs all work differently but most differ more by tip than by cap.

If you go have a look at the Fluxer thread, iirc, there was a good bit of examination around this issue, that there were some older caps with metal content that was very interactive with induction. As I recall, DV altered that with the rising IH popularity because it made them too susceptible to combusting. In any case the members identified different caps and their metal content, their reactivity, etc. It's mostly over my head but really interesting. I'm almost sure key info resides there.
Seems kind of impossible that I got 4 bad captive caps in a row and no one else here has had issues with their captive caps.
Indeed. Do you ever torch them? How different do they seem torched?
 

condition

Well-Known Member
Does your captive cap provide vapor after the second reheat in an induction heater?

None of my 4 caps provide vapor until the third cycle. Making sure they click twice, fit properly, etc etc. not my first dynavap rodeo.

Apparently people here think it's funny to have this many defective caps. Must just be my luck!
Follow these steps:
- heat your DV empty in the IH until it clicks
- load herb
- heat the loaded DV with the IH until 2nd click
- without drawing, place the DV in a magnet to cool, until you hear 2nd click
- repeat step 3
- draw and enjoy

I have had 5 different IHs and always follow this method - I don't draw from the first heat cycle.
 

Gnome34

Well-Known Member
I'm afraid I don't know much about those but I wonder if they have any built-in adjustability, or known hacks? Like some have a movable tube, others can be adjusted with cork or silicon discs, etc. Have you seen discussion of this cap phenomenon or these types of adjustments in the KB threads?

Maybe your KB is tuned for older, ferrous caps and doesn't interact as well with the newer formulation, but it's interesting that it's that stark. My IHs all work differently but most differ more by tip than by cap.

If you go have a look at the Fluxer thread, iirc, there was a good bit of examination around this issue, that there were some older caps with metal content that was very interactive with induction. As I recall, DV altered that with the rising IH popularity because it made them too susceptible to combusting. In any case the members identified different caps and their metal content, their reactivity, etc. It's mostly over my head but really interesting. I'm almost sure key info resides there.

Indeed. Do you ever torch them? How different do they seem torched?
Interesting, the difference in metal in the newer caps is likely what I'm experiencing.

They do perform better with a torch. I'm going to grab a YLL 2.0 at some point this week. That way I can adjust settings to compensate for the weaker caps.
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Interesting, the difference in metal in the newer caps is likely what I'm experiencing.

They do perform better with a torch. I'm going to grab a YLL 2.0 at some point this week. That way I can adjust settings to compensate for the weaker caps.
That might be your solution. The folks in that thread may have workarounds and so forth they'd share if that's indeed the issue with your KB. But a new, adjustable IH sounds like it'll do it. :tup::clap:
 
coolbreeze,

Smokey McVape

Well-Known Member
If I am out of dynavap titanium CCDs, would it make more sense using dynavap steel CCD on a titanium tip, or a CCD from Vestratto Anvil?
Try using small whole nugs.
Better flavour on consecutive heat cycles compared to grinding.
Alternatively use the steel CCD from Dynavap.

I have pretty eclectic tastes in vapes but I think dynavaps will always have a place in my rotation. I've only every used a Wand with them so perhaps I'm missing out on the full experience but I love what they bring.

I love the cigarette format. The indestructibility. All the trappings associated with smoking. For me it scratches that itch. I almost always puff slightly while heating with the Wand to get all that low temp goodness. That's one thing that's harder to pull off with a torch.

For me it's like re-lighting a cigar as I puff and wait for that click. The click comes really quickly and evenly with the Wand, like a match to a cigar. These are the things I've enjoyed about the dynavap ecosystem. They slap. they're easy to load and easy to use and reliable.

The last "dynavap" I acquired before my purchase of the current M7 deal was a glass dynavap compatible stem from PTGlass that I used with a low-temp cap. When I bought my Couchlog they once again had a new way to be used. They're great.
Never tried a torch?
IMO you are missing out because the hit is different. More potent and just as tasty.
Could be because I'm an ex smoker but give me a torch over an IH any day.
 

Lipax

Well-Known Member
yeah i like the heavy one hit too thats why im still using steel tip. im to lazy to torch tho :D
 
Lipax,
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Moody

Active Member
Interesting. I just bought the m7 xl and m+ combo a week ago or so along with a wand. It takes about 30 secs (not sure, i just double click wand on to auto and put the vap in)? Or so i think for it to click and i get a really nice hit. After my second hit, ill put the vap back in the wand for about 5 or 6 secs..my hits are great. Must be your IH. Also, I do not use an insert in the wand. Maybe that matters too. I usually get two clicks on the cap also. Rarely do i only get one.
 

El Duderino

The Dude abides.
I got an awesome little DV stem from a new maker, TurningHappiness on Etsy. It's not standard length but I intend it primarily for the log and the blackwood mouthpiece has a permanent condenser. Really gorgeous work!
IMG-7354.jpg
IMG-7350.jpg

The orange was my purchase, the blue was a factory second graciously gifted, turning happiness into even more happiness!

Wow, they’re gorgeous! I absolutely LOVE the orange one! :love:
 

Moody

Active Member
I got an awesome little DV stem from a new maker, TurningHappiness on Etsy. It's not standard length but I intend it primarily for the log and the blackwood mouthpiece has a permanent condenser. Really gorgeous work!
IMG-7354.jpg
IMG-7350.jpg

The orange was my purchase, the blue was a factory second graciously gifted, turning happiness into even more happiness!
I really like these...my only concern is how these sleeves handle the heat? I see there is an insert in the acrylic...what is the material? SS? Has anyone used acrylic on metal inserts? Do they get too hot or not? Thanks for any info.
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
I really like these...my only concern is how these sleeves handle the heat? I see there is an insert in the acrylic...what is the material? SS? Has anyone used acrylic on metal inserts? Do they get too hot or not? Thanks for any info.
I have a couple others I've used extensively, one with an Omni tip which can get pretty hot: no worse for the wear. But I'm glad you asked the question because I'd love to know if these are still ok for much hotter systems, like the Thermal Accumulator. I will no doubt try that out at some point; I think it will be ok, but I'd hate to melt anything.
 

jbm

Well-Known Member
I have a couple others I've used extensively, one with an Omni tip which can get pretty hot: no worse for the wear. But I'm glad you asked the question because I'd love to know if these are still ok for much hotter systems, like the Thermal Accumulator. I will no doubt try that out at some point; I think it will be ok, but I'd hate to melt anything.
I’ve been using a TA3 with the wooden (Ti crowns) VonG stem and it’s been fine. I am only using it with the Wand at 600F, no torch. YMMV.
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Yo, I found some pretty nice Ed'sTnt-style glass DV WPAs. Only 14mm and 18mm, no 10 unfortunately.
Ed_s_TNT_DynaVap_Glass_Water_Pipe_Adapter_14mm_-_The_Herb_Cafe.jpg

I've bought a couple and they seem to fit decently--a little thinner than Ed's I think--and they're so useful.
 
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