Divine Tribe atty's

[fernand]

Yup, looks great, and I'd think the more squat joint will be more resistant to breaking. In my case, the female hydratube joint is recessed a bit, so the shorter neck will make it especially nice to hold the glass assembly with one hand.

With the longer tube it was a 3 piece, with one section always looking for a chance to fly off and distract you so the hydratube can topple, causing a chain catastrophe. Duct tape? Duct tape and elegant glassware is kinda like old boxer shorts and victoria's secret. The shorter neck adapter solves it better. Way to go, Matt!

 

[Steven]

[QUOTE="

[/QUOTE]

Nice. The missing piece to the puzzle us coming soon. This is great news. I hope you will be providing more robust orings with the adapters. I'm loving the test adapter Matt sent me to try. After replacing the orings with a silicon band, I can tilt my huge Hydratube 45 degrees one handed no problem.

The shorter height will only further the stability. Can't wait. It's messy but here is my home hydratube

Sorry, it's dirty and blurry. It's an inline perc below 3 honeycomb s. Not sure if the inline at the bottom is being fully utilized but this thing looks like foam inside once it is functioning.

This one below is probably my favorite because of its streamline design and the mouthpiece is superb. Very well designed, no need to duck mouth this bad boy. This one stays in the car

@OF, I used to have the Recycler hydratube you are talking about I think, but tbh, the Recycler function on that piece doesn't really work unless it's unpracticaply overfilled. Idk why you would think Hydratubes r overkill with the v3, I thoroughly love em and am never looking back

 

[looney2nz]

[QUOTE="

Nice. The missing piece to the puzzle us coming soon. This is great news. I hope you will be providing more robust orings with the adapters. I'm loving the test adapter Matt sent me to try. After replacing the orings with a silicon band, I can tilt my huge Hydratube 45 degrees one handed no problem.

The shorter height will only further the stability. Can't wait. It's messy but here is my home hydratube

Sorry, it's dirty and blurry. It's an inline perc below 3 honeycomb s. Not sure if the inline at the bottom is being fully utilized but this thing looks like foam inside once it is functioning.

This one below is probably my favorite because of its streamline design and the mouthpiece is superb. Very well designed, no need to duck mouth this bad boy. This one stays in the car

@OF, I used to have the Recycler hydratube you are talking about I think, but tbh, the Recycler function on that piece doesn't really work unless it's unpracticaply overfilled. Idk why you would think Hydratubes r overkill with the v3, I thoroughly love em and am never looking back[/QUOTE]

It looks like the silicone and glass are partially blocking the air holes for the atomizer?

 

[Steven]

Nice. The missing piece to the puzzle us coming soon. This is great news. I hope you will be providing more robust orings with the adapters. I'm loving the test adapter Matt sent me to try. After replacing the orings with a silicon band, I can tilt my huge Hydratube 45 degrees one handed no problem.

The shorter height will only further the stability. Can't wait. It's messy but here is my home hydratube

Sorry, it's dirty and blurry. It's an inline perc below 3 honeycomb s. Not sure if the inline at the bottom is being fully utilized but this thing looks like foam inside once it is functioning.

This one below is probably my favorite because of its streamline design and the mouthpiece is superb. Very well designed, no need to duck mouth this bad boy. This one stays in the car

@OF, I used to have the Recycler hydratube you are talking about I think, but tbh, the Recycler function on that piece doesn't really work unless it's unpracticaply overfilled. Idk why you would think Hydratubes r overkill with the v3, I thoroughly love em and am never looking back

It looks like the silicone and glass are partially blocking the air holes for the atomizer?[/QUOTE]

The glass doesn't block any airholes. The silicon band is indeed blocking the airholes. There's 1 band used as orings and 1 band used to restrict airflow. I only do this on the og large cups with superb air flow. Just to mention, this set up still has more airflow than the newer cups without any molding to the housing. This perfectly counteracts the cooling effect of the superior airflow of the v3 for my kind of draw. Percs in water pipes need constant steady flow of air to function properly and I found this is the best way for me to slow down airflow while still keep the perc function without having to think about it too much. I rather do this than raise the heat (my settings are hot already)

 

[SameOldTim]

OF always points me in the right direction, might include a few turns but I'll get there! lol

V3 took over as the primary today (power was out, enail was down), throughly converted 2 people from a previous version and maybe converted a regular dabbers.

Hopefully the link works, but I would love it if there was something like this that fit on top. https://www.instagram.com/p/BNo9YY-j-5M/

As for my settings.... it's probably a little higher than suggested 20watt on OFs M1 setting (270 I think?) @ 420-480. I also load more than sugjested, from completly empty I'll put in about a .1 up to .2 of shatter.... I never let it go dry, always keeps a wet look on the heater, that should even out hotspot on the disc and maintain a decent life out of it. 10g through it, 2 cleaning cycles, and ceramic disc is still great.

Cheers!

 

[OF]

As for my settings.... it's probably a little higher than suggested 20watt on OFs M1 setting (270 I think?) @ 420-480.

You might want to check that. If you didn't change it it should be 170, not 270 (which is higher than m2 for V2.5 and medium V3). If it somehow got bumped up that explains the higher temperature setting.

You may be power (rather than temperature) limiting by using the higher temperature, which is of course just fine. Traditional even. If you say vapor is coming out I sure don't doubt it, 'cuz you know vapor for sure. I've watched you disappear behind your personal fog bank when exhaling in my direction.....Destroyers should lay down such smoke screens......

Then again, you're well known for coloring outside the lines, sure to find results if there are any about.

10 grams? My you have been testing now haven't you? Exactly what I'd hoped, Tim, for those that don't know him, is kind of a 'one man shakedown cruse' in these cases. When he couldn't break TV Beta stuff overnight it stood a strong chance for sure. Stress Test Plus.

Thanks for the update, confirms we've got a winner here boys and girls! Viva Matt!!!

OF

 

[Steven]

Also for those who already have a hydratube, I'm guessing you all store them separately right? Kinda almost sure cuz it's so dangerous to keep them stored attached to the mod. I have been storing my Hydratubes at home in the fridge and it's icy smooth for my dt hits. I used to do this with my bongs but as they grew it began to just take too much space. These Hydratubes are the perfect size for the fridge. Just thought I'd share a routine that improves the quality of my vape. I know there are some who like warm hits too tho.

 

[electricblues42]

Hi, I just got the Divine Tribe dry herb atomizer and I am having trouble getting the temperature control to work with my Joyetech Cuboid 150w mod. When I click on the button 3 times and go into the Temp Ni control page and after I changed it to 420 degrees I press the fire button and it reverts to wattage mode. Also I have yet to get any vapor out of it by doing this, even once the atomizer has gotten warm. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

 

[OF]

Hi, I just got the Divine Tribe dry herb atomizer and I am having trouble getting the temperature control to work with my Joyetech Cuboid 150w mod.

If you check back in this thread you'll find nobody has made it work. This trait, dropping out of TCR mode 'on it's own' happens with all mods tried (or at least reported).

Best advice is to run it in VW mode. My Cuboid with the herb cart on top (how's that for coincidence?) is set at 9.9 Watts from the last time I was playing with it, but IIRC I normally run about 13?

There was a lot of activity with this guy when they first came out, you might go back to that point in time and read what we were doing until we kind of collectively wondered off to play with V2.5/2.7 and lately of course V3.

Merry Christmas to all.

OF

 

[electricblues42]

If you check back in this thread you'll find nobody has made it work. This trait, dropping out of TCR mode 'on it's own' happens with all mods tried (or at least reported).

Best advice is to run it in VW mode. My Cuboid with the herb cart on top (how's that for coincidence?) is set at 9.9 Watts from the last time I was playing with it, but IIRC I normally run about 13?

There was a lot of activity with this guy when they first came out, you might go back to that point in time and read what we were doing until we kind of collectively wondered off to play with V2.5/2.7 and lately of course V3.

Merry Christmas to all.

OF

Well shit.....I bought this because I though I had a temp control mod....fuck. Looked everywhere I could too, searched this thread even and couldn't find that. This sucks.....does it work properly in VW mode?

Edit: Now its working? I'm Ron Burgundy? I used it at 35w for a while then tried again and its working in the Ni mode. I see why he sent the silicone inch of tubing, this thing is hot as hell.

 

[fiveskin]

I just got my DC Dry Herb and an Aspire NX75. After some trial and error I got it working.

M1. 380 Degrees. 35W. TCR 330. It works incredibly well. I'm a bit of a dry herb vape noob so I had some trouble with packing and settings.

I don't know what's wrong with your Cuboid but I can say with these settings it works.

I'll go into more depth and post pictures tomorrow. I'm wrecked. Eating cookies and vanilla frosting.

[/IMG]

 

[dsanch420]

If you check back in this thread you'll find nobody has made it work. This trait, dropping out of TCR mode 'on it's own' happens with all mods tried (or at least reported).

Best advice is to run it in VW mode. My Cuboid with the herb cart on top (how's that for coincidence?) is set at 9.9 Watts from the last time I was playing with it, but IIRC I normally run about 13?

There was a lot of activity with this guy when they first came out, you might go back to that point in time and read what we were doing until we kind of collectively wondered off to play with V2.5/2.7 and lately of course V3.

Merry Christmas to all.

OF

The Sigelei 213, fuchia 213, 100% never ever drops out allows for a TFR making it the most accurate next to the sliceOHM which has tc for ceramic is the 218 snowolf or snowwolf mini by sigelei now coming is around 30 bucks.

The ohmslice mod is by far the most accurate because of its ceramic tc abilities but too much extra power, dna 40s are nice and small and compact and work great if programmed in escribed, also they can easily be made...

whoever has access to the engineering process of the products please contact me at Dsanch310@gmail.com. I have been tinkering with this Idea for the better part of the decade and the set up I have for 30 bucks in 2014 is better than all the stuff out besides an enail, and it's just as good in it's one way as its made for allowing to taste and make your concentrates last and be passed around as bowls of dry would be. I also found two simple key things on dry herbal attachment that you have either started on or are staring right at it and haven't noticed. Please let me help you make an amazing product and guide in the direct way with what available now in 2016. I have moved at the opurunity of a second shot at a free degree and am no longer in LA L.A. and need widely available and effective price at a low price, and since it seems to excisit with out having it made for you my vape modders and glass blowers. I minus contribute how to make a effective well priced one that surpasses up to the most expensive set ups. If your dedicated if your craft apart from reading the post an email is not any more of a risk waiting your time (not that it will be). Dsanch310@gmail.com

 

[whatavape]

If you check back in this thread you'll find nobody has made it work. This trait, dropping out of TCR mode 'on it's own' happens with all mods tried (or at least reported).
OF

Wait a minute! Maybe I haven't been clear yet, but my v3's work absolutely swell with my Tesla TC40W and eleaf iStick TC40. I use them both in Ni mode. The iStick @ it's standard (and permanent) setting of 40W works for both medium and new large donuts. The mediums I usually run @280-320F and the new large are generally kept @360-380F and those temp settings give me readings around 390-425F depending on the concentrate used and the donut size. The medium runs way hotter than labeled, the new large runs much closer. In the Tesla I use the medium donuts exclusively so far (EDIT: @13.5-16W), and run them @260-300F depending on the concentrate. I have tried the large donut but prefer the medium one for the Tesla, since I prefer to load less at a time when out and about. Thicker waxes need a higher temp setting so far for me, while more fluid extracts go more toward the lower end of that. I'm not sure how much I've run through them so far - but at least a good 15g's of one run of wax on the Tesla and iStick alone (not just by myself - the Mrs. is always happy to help me test, and double my consumption...). Not once has either of these mods jumped into VW mode, not on any settings.

My DNA75 device (Hcigar VT75) is another story... it takes around 15 minutes of fiddling to get it to stop jumping into VW mode. Since I have so much trouble with this one... it doesn't get used as often.

 

[OF]

Wait a minute! Maybe I haven't been clear yet, but my v3's work absolutely swell with my Tesla TC40W and eleaf iStick TC40.........

If you check, the discussion was about the Herb cart, not V3. Important detail, that.

It's easy enough to run them in VW mode, but in TCR mode they have a history of 'slipping out' of TCR mode and defaulting to VW without warning. A lot of speculation as to why, and some experimenting, but nobody reported a configuration that was reliable and repeatable for TCR. The other day I had this (slipping out of TCR) happen with a V3, I believe because of a loose screw. Lots of loose screws at FC you know......... I'm wondering if 'the problem' might be dicey contacts in the HC?

As to driving doughnuts at 40 Watts by default that was popular early on with V2.5 and the iStick TC40W but was considered bad practice so we all migrated to the current generation of mods like Pico, Cuboid, eVic Mini and so on that allow us to set the default power level to something more appropriate. I'm currently using 18 Watts for the large doughnut, 12.5 for the medium one (basically the V2.5 settings I was using for the medium one).

Merry Christmas and best wishes to all.

OF

 

[divinetribe]

i hope to have these in a week or so ..

 

[Steven]

i hope to have these in a week or so ..

That's a mighty familiar set up u got there Matt. I hope you think the Hydratubes live up to the hype I been giving them. That video was awesome. Gotta love that white walled glass

Update:
To be clear, I just asked Matt and both the Hydratube and the adapter will be sold at ineedhemp.com. The hydratubes are available elsewhere, but you will get them quicker going through Matt's super quick shipping

 

[jpdnkstr]

I want one...

 

[fiveskin]

Lots of DC Dry Herb testing yesterday which left me a drooling zombie. Final conclusion, for my first herb vape, I'm in love.

Preface:
My very first vape after setup didn't go well. I hit the temp button on accident and switched to Ni mode. At 60w I got some huge clouds but burnt everything and made a big mess. Thankfully I didn't ruin the atty.

My Mod:
Aspire NX75. It's a brick. All zinc no plastic, heavy, single 18650, and it works beautifully. You could kill someone with it though, it's heavy as hell w/ the battery and has sharp edges. It never slips out of TC mode no matter what I do. It does take 20 to 30 seconds to get it up to temp and the mod will get warm but not dangerously hot. Very scientific testing! I tested everything at 35w & TCR = 330. I will play with those later. The only thing I changed was the temp. I tried 360/365/370/375/380 & 390 (I forgot 385). The different temps obviously gave different looking abv, clouds, and taste. I think I like 360 but need to test further. I only kept the 360 & 380 abv segregated for pics sorry.

The Atomizer:
It rocks. Stuff in the product, screw it in, get it hot, and hit it! First hit while warming up the tank gives some vapor but it's VERY flavorful vapor. The second hit is where the meat is. I'm guessing because the tank is already heated the hit is huge (depending on your settings) while the 3rd is the finisher in case you missed any. I do have the product fluffing up after the first hit if I don't pack it down enough which can cause the mouth piece to get clogged. No biggie. Open it and push it back down. The top of the atty doesn't really get that hot. Not hot enough that I can't touch it.

Conclusion:
Not much else to add except I love it. I do wonder if a more powerful mod could get it to temp quicker/more efficiently? I'm new to TC mods so I have to do some reading. Nawww fuck that, I bought an Hohm Wrecker G2. I'll let you know how that works! Until then here's some random pics. Don't make fun of my vape tools! It's all I've got!

 

[SameOldTim]

You might want to check that. If you didn't change it it should be 170, not 270 (which is higher than m2 for V2.5 and medium V3). If it somehow got bumped up that explains the higher temperature setting.

You may be power (rather than temperature) limiting by using the higher temperature, which is of course just fine. Traditional even. If you say vapor is coming out I sure don't doubt it, 'cuz you know vapor for sure. I've watched you disappear behind your personal fog bank when exhaling in my direction.....Destroyers should lay down such smoke screens......

Then again, you're well known for coloring outside the lines, sure to find results if there are any about.

10 grams? My you have been testing now haven't you? Exactly what I'd hoped, Tim, for those that don't know him, is kind of a 'one man shakedown cruse' in these cases. When he couldn't break TV Beta stuff overnight it stood a strong chance for sure. Stress Test Plus.

Thanks for the update, confirms we've got a winner here boys and girls! Viva Matt!!!

OF

Oh yea... 170.... :/ where I got 270, we'll never know... I pretty much left it on your M setting, don't remember how to adjust it ATM so I think were safe.

I have messed with the wattage however, got bumped up to 28W now and 450deg. Still going strong on the first heater and getting dab size hits. It's great while on the go, at altitude in no time! I only have a week on it at these settings so there's no telling what the reliability will be, just having fun with it for now.

It's messy work though, I find I have to put more in it to keep the heater covered so it doesn't burn. If I leave it with a few hits (dab size hits) then its so much product that it starts leaking through into the bottom. Got some ideas to resolve this, I have some ceramic washers and pins en-route. I'll let you know what comes of it OF.

T

 

[Danksta]

Any ETA on the crucible cups?

 

[Bad Ocelot]

Copied @whatavape & got my Tesla Stealth TC 40w in the other day (good sale on vaporbeast btw). Been using it with the medium donut (~0.7Ω) at 17.5w & 270-290F & getting good results. Clouds aren't as big as with the large (low resistance) donut with custom TCR on the VTC Basic, but it's a very serviceable & compact setup. Will likely be my go to for out & about. Plus with both the mod & V3 in black it's very discreet, and quite sharp looking

 

[suppa]

Hey guys I have a target mini 40W battery (similar to eleaf istick 40W but smaller) for my white DT V3 and I was wondering how do I clean my preinstalled large donut and at what temperature settings/wattage? I cannot set my watts for temperature it is preset at 40W.

 

[fernand]

@Bad Ocelot That Tesla Stealth sure looks cute. What metal setting on it do you use with the medium donut? Does it show changing resistance as it heats up? You can set watts in TC mode? What's your impression of the temp control?

 

[Bad Ocelot]

I use it in Ni mode, you can basically follow Matt's instructions for eleaf/joyetech/wismec mods with the Teslas as well. I don't believe it shows changing resistance but you can easily adjust wattage in TC mode, lock resistance, and it displays the changing (calculated) temp. My impression of the temp control is pretty good. As good as eleaf/wismec, better than artery. I think Joyetech's TC is a little better than the others though. I plan to try the larger, high resistance donuts on the Tesla soon, will definitely let you guys know how that goes.

Regarding TC in general, I was watching the numbers on my VTC Basic the other day as I was testing a new donut I'd just installed and I noticed when it hit temp protection the wattage fell at a staggered rate while "TEMP PROTECT" was on the screen, instead of just cutting the power all together, which is what I assumed these mods do when target temp is reached. I did it again & watched carefully & it begins to reduce wattage just before it hits the target as well. This further supports my (somewhat) educated guess that you can benefit from TC mode without actually hitting the target. Has anyone else noticed this on Joyetech or other mods with TCR that we've been using?

 

[OF]

I did it again & watched carefully & it begins to reduce wattage just before it hits the target as well. This further supports my (somewhat) educated guess that you can benefit from TC mode without actually hitting the target. Has anyone else noticed this on Joyetech or other mods with TCR that we've been using?

Yes, this is common for so called "PID Controllers". The curse control in your car is another example. The 'on/off' action of your home heater is an example of the other (common) kind of temperature control.

PID depends on the power control being Proportional (the P in the name), that is you have to be able to 'throttle back' not just turn on and off. It also watches the "error signal", the approach of the 'process variable' (temperature in our case) to the target, anticipating to avoid overshoot. Imagine your car at full throttle at 64 looking for 65 MPH.....

So the controller throttles back early and uses time (the I, Interval) to 'sneak up on the goal'. In some cases, probably not ours here, the third factor, Derivative (the D....) is added to control 'hunting' or oscillations around the target (setpoint).

PID controllers are standard fare in the trade.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller
http://www.csimn.com/CSI_pages/PIDforDummies.html

So, short answer is yes. Good observation on your part, IMO. And it points to a good thing, really.

OF