Divine Tribe atty's

[Vape Donkey 650]

[Rant mode off]

I just got one of Matts evaluation WPAs to try out. Dangerous in a word. It's basically the same height as my PNWT (six inches) and works naturally one or two handed. A powerful tool for good and right for sure.

IMO it might be worth making it a bit shorter overall. I think half an inch or so can easily be cut off without having the bell of the adapter (where the atty plugs in) contact the WT above. But that's what evaluations are for? BTW it makes a useful MP without a WT. But put Mister Hydrotube on top and hang on!

OF

OF! Your TC rant is so detailed I don't know if I agree with the whole idea!

I surely agree that the new glass adapter mouthpieces can have the extra gap space in the middle reduced. Some 18mm hydratubes and the PPWT 14mm tube have the glass joints sunken in a little bit, so we don't want the male-tipped glass joints sitting directly on top of the "bell" with no gap at all. But the gap can be smaller. Right now, my 14mm male top adapter has about 7/8" in between the bell top and the start of the angled glass joint. That gap can be as little as 1/4" or 3/8", at the most. The space underneath the bell can be reduced also. The bell has about 3/8" space on top of the o-rings, when installed, but it only needs to be about 1/4" or so.

Also, the new glass tops aren't as tight with the stock o-rings. It's pretty snug, snug enough, but much less than the regular ceramic MP. We don't want it super tight with the glass top, but the glass is thick and it can be a little tighter and survive. Maybe Matt can source o-rings that are barely bigger, like the red o-rings for the pyrex top for the v2.5?

But they surely do work, I've tried em out

Hey all, haven't been here in a while.

Is there new v3 donuts/cups for sale yet on the DT website? I want to buy a bunch of them, but can't figure out how to order. Thanks!

I don't think Matt has put all the spare parts and random small items on his website always. The best way to get at him for these random odds and ends is to just e-mail him and he'll get back to you.

Is there? IS THERE???? Does the pope crap in the woods? I'll say!

http://ineedhemp.com/product/divine...mic-donut-atomizer-fcombustion-discount-link/

@1DMF re:
"Perhaps I need to look at some rehydration system which I have seen mentioned something about Bodeva and adding moisture back to the plant?"

I've been using these little Boveda 62 hydrapacks in sealed jars and even thrown in a chest with little 1g packets of various strains, and they keep the humidity at 62%, which is perfect. Prevents drying out, prevents molding, herbs retain potency much longer. These packs can be re-humidified if they get too dry. They don't recommend it of course, but it's just physics, so they can last a long long time.

I don't think that's the link fern, for replacement donuts by themselves.

I didnt see where 1DMF inquired about rehydration (another thread?) but I can attest to the boveda packs' utility....for flowers!

I keep them in all my jars for flowers, mostly OXO brand and those italian glass jars with the metal wire hinge and plastic gaskets. I find it amazing how long the big boveda packs can last...over 2 years so far! I know that my tight jars that are infrequently opened helps the bovedas last longer, but I would have expected them to dry out and get hard by now! Not even close! Barely a little gravely and rocky in some packs, but they still hydrate. And the effect they have on preserving and curing flowers is noticeable. My old flowers have never been so nice.

But for concentrates, I don't think boveda packs offer much help You'd have to keep your little jars in a tight humidor with the boveda? I'm not even sure how much and how well different types of concentrates age and what exactly are the best storage practices (low consumption + big stash = you get to watch your concentrates change!)

It seems like stable shatters can be good forever at room temperature. Sometimes they 'sugar over' and I don't think that's a bad thing. Mid-grade dry and oily crumbles and waxes can get even drier and less oily over time at room temp...they'll degrade, but how much and in which way I'm not sure yet?

Live resins...have an expiration date, unfortunately Watch it look like a richy oily sheen when you buy it, only to watch it "sugar over" and have the wet oily parts evaporate and mix with the solids, over a few weeks. Even if you refrigerate! I think cooling some concentrates can help but it can't prevent terpene evaporation 100%.

co2 oils have a shelf life seemingly forever...especially in a syringe, no air is getting in there at all!

That said, I think freezing / refrigerating your concentrates is the best way to store and preserve them for longer periods, but I'm sure there's more to it than that...

Have they stopped making the Cubis Pro Mini? I can't find anything but the Cubis Pro tank anywhere

The mini version of the cubis pro is actually the newest version, and very few US based retailers are stocking them. Several more retailers do sell it as a kit with the evic basic 60w TC mod. Seeing that you can't get the tank alone for much less than 20, and you can get the whole kit for about 40 bucks, or the mod alone for at least 30, the kit does seem like a good deal

101vape has the kits at a reasonable price. You'll have this real quick, but they only have the whole kit, not the tank alone
https://101vape.com/starter-kits/13...40w-tc-tcr-starter-kit-by-joyetech-white.html

other colors too but not the crinkle version
https://101vape.com/9_joyetech

This guy has just the cubis mini tanks on ebay and is based in NY. I bet the shipping cost will make the price less attractive. edit: i guess not, free shipping? for ten bucks, seems suspicious
http://r.ebay.com/gINkJH

I ended up getting a tank over here, I've bought stuff from them before and they're legit. Most any shenzhen-china-based e-tailers will be legit, since they're located just down the street from the joyetech factory. It's harder to pass off counterfeits when the original manufacturer can just walk down the street and knock angrily on your door haha
https://www.heavengifts.com/product/Joyetech-CUBIS-Pro-Mini-Atomizer.html
theyre on ebay too http://r.ebay.com/hgF4SJ


And this place seemed to have the best price on the wrinkle version - I've never bought from them before, but they're in shenzhen also, so I'm not expecting a fake product.
https://vapesourcing.com/joyetech-cubis-pro-mini-atomizer-kit.html

My new evic basic kit for the new co2 oil project and an extra tank for Matt are on the way, hope to have them sometime this week. I've got the holes drilled in our coil casings, (swiss cheesed up) and I'll get to assembling the insides later today and tomorrow. If the shipping gods allow, we can have new donut coil tanks by the end of the week!

Now...

r@ndom d0nut p0rn! ! !

where my larry flynts of melted concentrates and ceramic discs at? Been a while

This large cuboid was the last mod of mine running a large donut with the revised cup, but I grew tired of over-feeding oil to it to get large vape clouds, so now my whole donut collection is 10mm.

Berry white shatter, mild pre-melt (I havent been pre-melting my shatters that much, on a dirty sticky donut I find it unnecessary, but this is an initial load - unmelted shatter can move on a clean donut)

 

[Danksta]

I got the medium donuts in over the weekend. They are the ones with higher raised holes.

I've already switched back to the large donuts.

The medium donuts produce too much waste and don't seem as efficient with the base as the large do. The large donuts seem to create an oven and most oil will fall to the bottom and vaporize. With the mediums, oil that is stuck to the sides will remain stuck to the sides. I played with different settings, but just could not get the same experience as I did with the large.

I think the ones with lower airholes would be better. That was something I liked about the large. The donut was very close to the cup and seemed to vape the oil better.

Very much interested in the upcoming crucible cup. Is that going to be similar the Source Terra 2's? Heated walls and such?

The large V3 paired with my Evic Mini V2 is truly the best vape (pen) experience I've had. Good luck prying it away from me.

 

[Volteric]

Finally jumped on the V3. As an aside, I tried a natural terpene sauce as a little wash for my 2.7. If you don't use too much it's a nice taste refresher.

 

[looney2nz]

OF! Your TC rant is so detailed I don't know if I agree with the whole idea!

I surely agree that the new glass adapter mouthpieces can have the extra gap space in the middle reduced. Some 18mm hydratubes and the PPWT 14mm tube have the glass joints sunken in a little bit, so we don't want the male-tipped glass joints sitting directly on top of the "bell" with no gap at all. But the gap can be smaller. Right now, my 14mm male top adapter has about 7/8" in between the bell top and the start of the angled glass joint. That gap can be as little as 1/4" or 3/8", at the most. The space underneath the bell can be reduced also. The bell has about 3/8" space on top of the o-rings, when installed, but it only needs to be about 1/4" or so.

Also, the new glass tops aren't as tight with the stock o-rings. It's pretty snug, snug enough, but much less than the regular ceramic MP. We don't want it super tight with the glass top, but the glass is thick and it can be a little tighter and survive. Maybe Matt can source o-rings that are barely bigger, like the red o-rings for the pyrex top for the v2.5?

But they surely do work, I've tried em out



I don't think Matt has put all the spare parts and random small items on his website always. The best way to get at him for these random odds and ends is to just e-mail him and he'll get back to you.



I don't think that's the link fern, for replacement donuts by themselves.

I didnt see where 1DMF inquired about rehydration (another thread?) but I can attest to the boveda packs' utility....for flowers!

I keep them in all my jars for flowers, mostly OXO brand and those italian glass jars with the metal wire hinge and plastic gaskets. I find it amazing how long the big boveda packs can last...over 2 years so far! I know that my tight jars that are infrequently opened helps the bovedas last longer, but I would have expected them to dry out and get hard by now! Not even close! Barely a little gravely and rocky in some packs, but they still hydrate. And the effect they have on preserving and curing flowers is noticeable. My old flowers have never been so nice.

But for concentrates, I don't think boveda packs offer much help You'd have to keep your little jars in a tight humidor with the boveda? I'm not even sure how much and how well different types of concentrates age and what exactly are the best storage practices (low consumption + big stash = you get to watch your concentrates change!)

It seems like stable shatters can be good forever at room temperature. Sometimes they 'sugar over' and I don't think that's a bad thing. Mid-grade dry and oily crumbles and waxes can get even drier and less oily over time at room temp...they'll degrade, but how much and in which way I'm not sure yet?

Live resins...have an expiration date, unfortunately Watch it look like a richy oily sheen when you buy it, only to watch it "sugar over" and have the wet oily parts evaporate and mix with the solids, over a few weeks. Even if you refrigerate! I think cooling some concentrates can help but it can't prevent terpene evaporation 100%.

co2 oils have a shelf life seemingly forever...especially in a syringe, no air is getting in there at all!

That said, I think freezing / refrigerating your concentrates is the best way to store and preserve them for longer periods, but I'm sure there's more to it than that...



The mini version of the cubis pro is actually the newest version, and very few US based retailers are stocking them. Several more retailers do sell it as a kit with the evic basic 60w TC mod. Seeing that you can't get the tank alone for much less than 20, and you can get the whole kit for about 40 bucks, or the mod alone for at least 30, the kit does seem like a good deal

101vape has the kits at a reasonable price. You'll have this real quick, but they only have the whole kit, not the tank alone
https://101vape.com/starter-kits/13...40w-tc-tcr-starter-kit-by-joyetech-white.html

other colors too but not the crinkle version
https://101vape.com/9_joyetech

This guy has just the cubis mini tanks on ebay and is based in NY. I bet the shipping cost will make the price less attractive. edit: i guess not, free shipping? for ten bucks, seems suspicious
http://r.ebay.com/gINkJH

I ended up getting a tank over here, I've bought stuff from them before and they're legit. Most any shenzhen-china-based e-tailers will be legit, since they're located just down the street from the joyetech factory. It's harder to pass off counterfeits when the original manufacturer can just walk down the street and knock angrily on your door haha
https://www.heavengifts.com/product/Joyetech-CUBIS-Pro-Mini-Atomizer.html
theyre on ebay too http://r.ebay.com/hgF4SJ


And this place seemed to have the best price on the wrinkle version - I've never bought from them before, but they're in shenzhen also, so I'm not expecting a fake product.
https://vapesourcing.com/joyetech-cubis-pro-mini-atomizer-kit.html

My new evic basic kit for the new co2 oil project and an extra tank for Matt are on the way, hope to have them sometime this week. I've got the holes drilled in our coil casings, (swiss cheesed up) and I'll get to assembling the insides later today and tomorrow. If the shipping gods allow, we can have new donut coil tanks by the end of the week!

Now...

r@ndom d0nut p0rn! ! !

where my larry flynts of melted concentrates and ceramic discs at? Been a while

This large cuboid was the last mod of mine running a large donut with the revised cup, but I grew tired of over-feeding oil to it to get large vape clouds, so now my whole donut collection is 10mm.

Berry white shatter, mild pre-melt (I havent been pre-melting my shatters that much, on a dirty sticky donut I find it unnecessary, but this is an initial load - unmelted shatter can move on a clean donut)

looks like the PopNaturals I painted onto the 10mm last night!

Ordered another eVic VTwin Mini, with the Cubis Pro Mini and a couple of the LG H2 batteries.

I've only been exposed to the Joyetech stuff, what about these DNA devices?

 

[WKONE]

Is there? IS THERE???? Does the pope crap in the woods? I'll say!

http://ineedhemp.com/product/divine...mic-donut-atomizer-fcombustion-discount-link/

Where do I order JUST THE CUP AND DONUT? I don't need an extra base or mouthpiece. I'm looking for replacement donuts& cups, and i see that there's a new version out now?

 

[fernand]

I will never stop railing against "natural terpenes" as additives. Ever heard of Turpentine? That's natural as all hell, right off the plant (like hemlock too, BTW). Happy natural vaping!

Yo, @Vape Donkey 650 what do you mean about all your donuts being 10 mm? You mean Matt's medium V3 donuts? What's this you're drilling? With donuts inside? I missed something.

@WKONE I'm sorry I thought ... no idea, ask Matt, just e-mail him.

 

[1DMF]

I'm loving this v3 doughnut, I am using 21w / m=369 / 380F , and took it to a friends for the weekend who still smokes.

He took one hit and thought I'd passed him a crack pipe, he said this dabbing malarkey is the 'needle of cannabis'.

OK, a bit of an extreme view, but I did just blow his mind with a V3 and a lump of home pressed rosin

@OF Can you advise on settings to avoid, eg, what's the max W or M or F ?

@WKONE As for replacement doughnuts for V3, I asked Matt and it turns out there isn't anywhere you can purchase them from currently, and you have to email matt direct to get replacements.

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

I got the medium donuts in over the weekend. They are the ones with higher raised holes.

I've already switched back to the large donuts.

The medium donuts produce too much waste and don't seem as efficient with the base as the large do. The large donuts seem to create an oven and most oil will fall to the bottom and vaporize. With the mediums, oil that is stuck to the sides will remain stuck to the sides. I played with different settings, but just could not get the same experience as I did with the large.

I think the ones with lower airholes would be better. That was something I liked about the large. The donut was very close to the cup and seemed to vape the oil better.

Very much interested in the upcoming crucible cup. Is that going to be similar the Source Terra 2's? Heated walls and such?

The large V3 paired with my Evic Mini V2 is truly the best vape (pen) experience I've had. Good luck prying it away from me.

Hey, nice to see another guy enjoying his V3 donuts, large or medium, welcome to the club!

That's too bad you're not liking the medium donut, I'm liking those alot more, although I haven't really tried the newer batch of high-TCR "squiggly" large donuts either. (i only used the first batch)

Maybe part of the problem is if you have the "revised" medium cup with the air holes raised higher up from the floor, exiting closer to the underside of the donut, decreasing airflow and increasing likely leakage? I only have the short air hole medium cups, so that's not a problem for me there.

As for the oil falling to the side, I get that too. You can get to that mostly good melted oil with a skinny dab tool (sewing needle) and scoop it back on top, but it would be nice if this wasn't necessary. 2 or 3 nice puffs then scoop, for me. The other option, as has been noted, is to just keep on loading over the fallen oil in the cup.

Also, if your medium (or large) donut can't sit flush on the bottom of the cup when it's installed in the posts, you may want to trim a tiny section of the lead wire. I've found 3 or 4 of my donuts wouldn't sit flat on the bottom of the cup until I trimmed a meager 1-2mm from the wire. Then you can get it to sit low and flat, and it vapes that low-lying oil better. Only 3 or 4 out of about 20+ new v3 donuts I've used have had the wire a wee bit too long.

Yo, @Vape Donkey 650 what do you mean about all your donuts being 10 mm? You mean Matt's medium V3 donuts? What's this you're drilling? With donuts inside? I missed something.

Hey fern, maybe I wasn't clear earlier. I meant that I've got all my DT v3s running 10mm medium donuts now. I've retired my numerous, proud, and venerable fleet of v2.5 donuts now, and I've switched out the last couple of large donuts I was running in my big cuboids over to medium also. So all my DTs attys are 10mm now, but I think you did miss something. I don't blame you, with all the posts on this thread and the essay-like nature of mines.

But you might have overlooked this and this.

Remember when I was seeking out your advice on solutions for my RTAs constantly leaking out on me when I filled em with co2 oil and ceramic coil heads? You only offered the tip to let the mod and tank lie sideways when not in use to prevent leaking, but then this happened to me too

Fast forward to now, I'm making a new round of 7mm double donut coil heads for me and my FC homies, since this project has been a success for me, and I still can't find any complete, off-the-shelf RTA kits on the market that suit my needs

Want me to make a donut coil head for you too? I think you're a handy & crafty guy with the juice vaping thing, so if you're interested in this stuff, I'm sure you can make one yourself if you take a look at what I did and why. You can skip out on the ceramic fiber wick and use organic cotton or hemp fiber wick instead, if you want. (but I'd advise against that)

I will never stop railing against "natural terpenes" as additives. Ever heard of Turpentine? That's natural as all hell, right off the plant (like hemlock too, BTW). Happy natural vaping!

Ha, that's funny you mentioned that, because I just obtained a bottle of ɑ pinene to use in my "aromatherapy diffuser" vape. I don't plan on vaping it, direct-inhalation, for reasons you already know about, fern. I'm using very small amounts (a few drops in 100ml of water) and the aroma is much more subtle than I expected, but even the whole bottle when open: it just smells like turpentine or paint thinner? It doesn't smell "piney" at all to me, surprisingly. But turpentine consists mostly of ɑ pinene so no surprise there?

looks like the PopNaturals I painted onto the 10mm last night!

Ordered another eVic VTwin Mini, with the Cubis Pro Mini and a couple of the LG H2 batteries.

I've only been exposed to the Joyetech stuff, what about these DNA devices?

Can't go wrong with a genuine joyetech mod. I'm using like 14? of them and I find them pretty reliable and accurate enough with the TC, a little more so than the few eleafs I have.

The DNA mods are tempting but I'm hesistant to jump in there. I've never tried one, but clearly, there's tons of stuff you can do with the escribe software that you can't do with joyetech firmware. Much of that stuff is cosmetic, but from what @whatavape has posted, it seems there is some performance benefit to be gained by fine-tuning your DT donuts with a custom profile. But how much benefit, can you really notice it, is it worth the extra cost and effort and size, over a well tuned evic? Subjective questions, but maybe whatavape can throw in his since he's used a variety of TC mods and chipsets with DT donuts.

I'm hesitant because if I did get a DNA75 mod and set it up well and found it to be that much better, I'd then be tempted to replace my whole collection with DNA mods But to give the joyetech's and eleaf's a fighting chance, there's a variety of hacked, 3rd party firmwares that you can download & use, maybe you can gain some of the features that escribe gives you, but I haven't jumped into that rabbithole either (yet?)

 

[OF]

@OF Can you advise on settings to avoid, eg, what's the max W or M or F ?

Only advice based on my modest experience, perhaps subject to revision?

I'm running the medium doughnut at 12.5 Watts, cleaning it (carefully) at 17 Watts. The larger one I run at 18 Watts and clean at 24. M and F settings interact since they are divided mathematically (F as dividend, m as divisor) and the answer (which is a prediction of percentage of resistance rise) used as the target for TCR once it's multiplied by the 'cold' resistance of the heater. You have to consider the limits of one factor in light of the other. Their combined effect either overrides the power applied (goes into 'temperature protect' and reduces power) or it doesn't. If you stay with 12.5 and 18 Watts you should be safe enough.

Regards,

OF

 

[1DMF]

@OF I'm definitely getting 'temperature protect' on the settings I have, though I'm confused as I also get 10s time-out.

I thought the point of TCR was to act like taking your finger off the button so you could hold the button permanently and the TCR mode would pulse the power to maintain constant temperature.

Do you use ISO when cleaning or just cotton buds and the higher temp?

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

@OF Can you advise on settings to avoid, eg, what's the max W or M or F ?

Only advice based on my modest experience, perhaps subject to revision?

I'm running the medium doughnut at 12.5 Watts, cleaning it (carefully) at 17 Watts. The larger one I run at 18 Watts and clean at 24. M and F settings interact since they are divided mathematically (F as dividend, m as divisor) and the answer (which is a prediction of percentage of resistance rise) used as the target for TCR once it's multiplied by the 'cold' resistance of the heater. You have to consider the limits of one factor in light of the other. Their combined effect either overrides the power applied (goes into 'temperature protect' and reduces power) or it doesn't. If you stay with 12.5 and 18 Watts you should be safe enough.

Regards,

OF

@OF I'm definitely getting temperature override on the settings I have, though I'm confused as I also get 10s time-out.

I thought the point of TCR was to act like taking your finger off the button so you could hold the button permanently and the TCR mode would pulse the power to maintain constant temperature.

Do you use ISO when cleaning or just cotton buds and the higher temp?

I know my opinion was not solicited here, to side-bust on your conversation, and I hate to re-hash this, because I think my views on TC mod watts and OF's are wildly divergent, but @1DMF asked what is the MAXIMUM safe and/or usable watts and temp settings to use? Well the max temp setting is subjective to the user's preference and the TCR # they set. But I think we have some light on what's the max watts to use with the new sets of donuts.

Using 12 and 18w on the 10 and 13mm donuts I would consider to be minimum watts settings, in TC mode. Much less than that, and you'll barely get any vapor. It also takes forever to warm up at these settings, which is why you may not be getting satisfaction before the 10-second timeout. (All TC mods will cut off the power after 10 or 15 seconds for a single button press) You'll have to cycle the button past 10 seconds if you want much any vapor if it takes your donut 6 seconds to warm up, dragging the oil to the floor in the process.

I've found out that you can easily use up to 32w for the 10mm donuts and 40w at least for the old-batch, low-TCR (non-squiggly) large donuts. I've since backed down to 28w for medium donuts, and ditched the big donuts, but you could probably go a little higher than that and be safe. But I wouldn't. Much higher than that, you're going into the danger zone, where you might bust out a donut, shorten it's lifespan, or have it fail if the resistance is off on your mod.

Using these higher watts in TC(R) mode makes your donut warm up in a more reasonable ~ 2 seconds, and the watts are instantly reduced when the mod hits protection, so you don't have to worry about the donut or vapor getting too hot or blowing the donut. And you can still cycle the fire button if you want more than 10 seconds of vape.

I've vaped about a gram or so on a single disc so far using these settings, and I think it has plenty more grams to go if I don't break the wires during cleaning. That's not Steven-level consumption levels, but it's something to go off of.

To clean the V3, if it's thoroughly gummed-up, it's best to fully dissemble, wipe and soak all the parts in iso, and BURN clean the donut in watts mode to remove the last residue. Matt has posted videos of this several pages back and on his youtube. It also helps to wipe / scrape away gross reclaim oil away after usage to prevent buildups in between full-on disassembly, burn-cleans.

I've also found you can burn clean the mediums with as little as 10w and the large with as little as 14w, it just takes longer holding the button down to burn off the crust. IDK if this is any better or worse than burning clean the donuts at 17 and 24w for shorter pulses. I'm pretty sure than burning clean the donut is the most stressful parts of it's normal usage cycle, though.

BTW, I believe I've made an excellent tool for loading the V3. I want to play a bit more, take a photo or two, before I try to explain it.

OF

I quote you from the future!
edit: I'd like to see this handy loading tool, plus that gun-cleaning wad that doesn't leave fibers when you wipe

 

[OF]

@OF I'm definitely getting 'temperature protect' on the settings I have, though I'm confused as I also get 10s time-out.

I thought the point of TCR was to act like taking your finger off the button so you could hold the button permanently and the TCR mode would pulse the power to maintain constant temperature.

Do you use ISO when cleaning or just cotton buds and the higher temp?

If you reach protect (and override VW) you're in TCR mode. You can indeed 'leave the hammer down' and let the autopilot control the temperature (your job is to enjoy the vapor......). Raising F or lowering m will make it hotter. I vape up what I can reasonably, then carefully wipe the top clean with a 'tight wound' bud (used for gun cleaning, no shedding......) saturated with ISO. Get it damp for 15 seconds or so then wipe away what I can and dry with the heater. I only burn it off every couple dozen uses. Depends on concentrate, of course, some foul quickly, others not so much.

BTW, I believe I've made an excellent tool for loading the V3. I want to play a bit more, take a photo or two, before I try to explain it.

OF

 

[looney2nz]

Hey, nice to see another guy enjoying his V3 donuts, large or medium, welcome to the club!

That's too bad you're not liking the medium donut, I'm liking those alot more, although I haven't really tried the newer batch of high-TCR "squiggly" large donuts either. (i only used the first batch)

Maybe part of the problem is if you have the "revised" medium cup with the air holes raised higher up from the floor, exiting closer to the underside of the donut, decreasing airflow and increasing likely leakage? I only have the short air hole medium cups, so that's not a problem for me there.

As for the oil falling to the side, I get that too. You can get to that mostly good melted oil with a skinny dab tool (sewing needle) and scoop it back on top, but it would be nice if this wasn't necessary. 2 or 3 nice puffs then scoop, for me. The other option, as has been noted, is to just keep on loading over the fallen oil in the cup.

Also, if your medium (or large) donut can't sit flush on the bottom of the cup when it's installed in the posts, you may want to trim a tiny section of the lead wire. I've found 3 or 4 of my donuts wouldn't sit flat on the bottom of the cup until I trimmed a meager 1-2mm from the wire. Then you can get it to sit low and flat, and it vapes that low-lying oil better. Only 3 or 4 out of about 20+ new v3 donuts I've used have had the wire a wee bit too long.



Hey fern, maybe I wasn't clear earlier. I meant that I've got all my DT v3s running 10mm medium donuts now. I've retired my numerous, proud, and venerable fleet of v2.5 donuts now, and I've switched out the last couple of large donuts I was running in my big cuboids over to medium also. So all my DTs attys are 10mm now, but I think you did miss something. I don't blame you, with all the posts on this thread and the essay-like nature of mines.

But you might have overlooked this and this.

Remember when I was seeking out your advice on solutions for my RTAs constantly leaking out on me when I filled em with co2 oil and ceramic coil heads? You only offered the tip to let the mod and tank lie sideways when not in use to prevent leaking, but then this happened to me too

Fast forward to now, I'm making a new round of 7mm double donut coil heads for me and my FC homies, since this project has been a success for me, and I still can't find any complete, off-the-shelf RTA kits on the market that suit my needs

Want me to make a donut coil head for you too? I think you're a handy & crafty guy with the juice vaping thing, so if you're interested in this stuff, I'm sure you can make one yourself if you take a look at what I did and why. You can skip out on the ceramic fiber wick and use organic cotton or hemp fiber wick instead, if you want. (but I'd advise against that)



Ha, that's funny you mentioned that, because I just obtained a bottle of ɑ pinene to use in my "aromatherapy diffuser" vape. I don't plan on vaping it, direct-inhalation, for reasons you already know about, fern. I'm using very small amounts (a few drops in 100ml of water) and the aroma is much more subtle than I expected, but even the whole bottle when open: it just smells like turpentine or paint thinner? It doesn't smell "piney" at all to me, surprisingly. But turpentine consists mostly of ɑ pinene so no surprise there?



Can't go wrong with a genuine joyetech mod. I'm using like 14? of them and I find them pretty reliable and accurate enough with the TC, a little more so than the few eleafs I have.

The DNA mods are tempting but I'm hesistant to jump in there. I've never tried one, but clearly, there's tons of stuff you can do with the escribe software that you can't do with joyetech firmware. Much of that stuff is cosmetic, but from what @whatavape has posted, it seems there is some performance benefit to be gained by fine-tuning your DT donuts with a custom profile. But how much benefit, can you really notice it, is it worth the extra cost and effort and size, over a well tuned evic? Subjective questions, but maybe whatavape can throw in his since he's used a variety of TC mods and chipsets with DT donuts.

I'm hesitant because if I did get a DNA75 mod and set it up well and found it to be that much better, I'd then be tempted to replace my whole collection with DNA mods But to give the joyetech's and eleaf's a fighting chance, there's a variety of hacked, 3rd party firmwares that you can download & use, maybe you can gain some of the features that escribe gives you, but I haven't jumped into that rabbithole either (yet?)

lol... I capish I downloaded the firmware update for the eVic VTwo Mini, have to read what to do to install it. But for all who have these units, there is new firmware, not sure what the changes may be yet... I think there is a 'warm-up ramp' setting. The learning curve for these things has been interesting... I think I'll stick with these for now. all this to try and medicate! thankfully it's been worth it

I have to look at the cups... Matt sent 'em out to me probably 10 days ago, I think they are just like the larger cups (but with finer lead holes it appears), 2 air holes underneath the donut. I've tried this @ TCR of 180, 210 and 245. Using 245, 20W, 430F.

If folks want these smaller donuts (he's got 10mm and 7mm), e-mail Matt (info@ineedhemp.com) and tell 'em what you want, he'll ship you a PayPal link and Bob's your Uncle! I rather like the 10mm so far. I VERY much recommend the Silicone tool kit he has, VASTLY better quality silicone tips than the easily shredded stuff that is included in most tools.

 

[OF]

Gentle Friends,

Here's the details on my home made loading tool for V3, and the cotton 'buds' (swabs) I use for cleaning.

That's it at the top. Under that are two views of the basic tool I started with, something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Veroda-Silve...UTF8&qid=1480425835&sr=8-24&keywords=ear+pick

A kind of scary traditional ear cleaner from Asia, in modern SS form. Often included with vapes as a cheap loading tool (probably a few cents each at most?). At least some are SS, which is what you want, avoid the plated steel ones (I made that mistake......). After some experiments I found most useful for me was to cut about 2/3 of the 'spoon' off, just where it gets to full width. I then filed a bevel on the 'back side' like you'd find on a wood chisel (one side flat, the other at maybe 40 degrees). A wedge in cross section so the concentrate can easily flow off. Notice the nose is slightly rounded (important). I then polished/deburred it with some 320 grit carbide paper.

In use it's easy and effective. I 'chop' off a small bit more with the tip (adding to what's left over from the last loading) and press it vertically to the preheated doughnut (I run to about 200F and shut it off). The heat melts a bit of oil/wax from the center of the nose which forms a small puddle on the doughnut adding better contact for more heat transfer. You can then 'paint' a bead of concentrate around the top of the doughnut like it was a small paint brush. If it cools too much, hit the power button to help melt more off the tool. It's actually very easy to do once you sort it out. When you have an even, complete, film just pull the tool up with the remaining concentrate (add a bit more at the tip for the next loading). It easily and quickly lays a neat thin layer on the doughnut with you in complete control of the process.

To clean the doughnut I use special swabs, 'tight wound' ones that don't shed and are very firm. The grades sold for Gunsmith use are cheap enough:

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...ning-swabs/gun-cleaning-system-prod65703.aspx
http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...-swabs/g-tip-cotton-applicator-prod27198.aspx

The pointed ones can be handy, but I don't use them with DT currently. I find the size intended for .38 caliber guns (about .20 inches across) to be the best for the V3. The same sorts of swabs are sold for Cleanroom use a higher cost:
http://www.americancleanstat.com/swabs/cotton-tipped-swabs.html

but IMO 'no reason to go there'. As I recall the story here, common 'bathroom' swabs are wound soft and loose to save material (cotton ain't cheap.....) and appeal to the customers visually. They don't care about shedding fibers. Basically the opposite of what we want. To make the 'industrial strength, non fouling' version the linters (broken fibers, usually where the seeds are) are removed by careful 'carding' but then it's twisted into a long fine thread (no exposed ends of fibers) which is then wrapped under high tension around the stem. Like string around a broomstick. Makes for a hard, compacted end that doesn't shed fibers. Not much good cleaning your ears, but 'just the ticket' for gently wiping the doughnut off.

Like I said, dampen the swab and run it gently around and around keeping the doughnut moist to dissolve the junk for maybe 10 seconds. Then, rolling the swab a bit, wipe it clean. Sometimes a second (clean) swab is needed, but if you keep after it it's easy and fast to keep it plenty clean for routine use. A few seconds of heating will evaporate off the ISO remaining.

Now you know as much as me on the subjects?

OF

 

[Volteric]

I will never stop railing against "natural terpenes" as additives. Ever heard of Turpentine? That's natural as all hell, right off the plant (like hemlock too, BTW). Happy natural vaping!

Yo, @Vape Donkey 650 what do you mean about all your donuts being 10 mm? You mean Matt's medium V3 donuts? What's this you're drilling? With donuts inside? I missed something.

@WKONE I'm sorry I thought ... no idea, ask Matt, just e-mail him.

Please enlighten me. I have no experience or understanding about dangers from natural terpenes. I was under the understanding that they were nothing different than what is on the plant.

 

[Steven]

Since we are on the topic here are the tools I been using for a few years for the dt attys. I also use a sewing needle for cleaning

Not the usual quality of shatter i get but it's pretty stable. I use the wax paper the shatter comes in to roll the shatter into a log or snake. Then I use one of the tools in the right to cut the log into bb sized sections. I use the pointy end to pick up the shatter balls to load onto the v3. I used to use the flat end of the tool to paint the shatter on but now I just use the tools to cleanly place the ball on the donut. The little surface area of the tools makes transfers clean. Then I press power just enough to have the ball melt and fixed onto the donut (making sure it doesn't touch the side wall). Next I put the mod horizontally, flash the atty with power and rotate as I let gravity and heat move the ball to spread across the donut perfectly. The pointy tips are nice because it's less surface area for wax to stick on. These are stainless steel tools u can get on Amazon I think. These were old tools I found in the closet long ago. They kinda remind me of dentist picks as well

 

[fernand]

Just got a 14mm adapter.
NOW we're tokin' !
Matt's a great demon of activity.

 

[fernand]

Please enlighten me. I have no experience or understanding about dangers from natural terpenes. I was under the understanding that they were nothing different than what is on the plant.

This is an important issue. People are easily cheated by claims of "natural" or "organic". In this case it's all about amounts. Or "dosage". Or proportion.

For instance CBD, among other effects, blocks or reverses some of the effects of THC. In the natural ratios that occur in the plant the ratio regulates actions of the oil. Too much CBD and there's no alerting effect. Too much THC and it's scrambling.

That's just one example, as there are hundreds of subtle interactions between components in hemp oil that contribute to its low toxicity and dependence potential. The same is true of the many terpenes and flavonoids. The unique properties of each hemp strain comes from the ratio of elements. We can see that synthetic analogues in the THC family, stripped of the naturally occurring protecting mix, like the various "spice" products, are in a different hazard class altogether.

In addition, the percentages of the fragrant terpenes and flavonoids in hemp are normally very low. We have no knowledge of what they do in larger concentrations. Just because it's in the plant doesn't mean that a larger amount is harmless. As with CBD/THC even just slightly different ratios can produce unexpected changes.

Nobody nowadays would consider turpentine harmless just because it comes from a plant. After years of use for thinning oil paints it's now known to be too dangerous to use by artists in an enclosed spaces. With so many substances we have never even considered the toxicity. Almonds and cherries are great. But an extract can concentrate a lot of cyanide. It makes sense to respect the proportions that occur as-is, not because everything "natural" is holy, but because humans have safely used it that way for thousands of years.

The people who are selling "terpenes" are in business to make money, and under no obligation to disclose what exactly is in them. Why should they care? They are encouraging the pollution of hemp extracts with artificial proportions of fragrances to either simulate a better quality material, or to emulate specific strains. We don't need any more bullshit and confusion. That's like all the other fake crap that's on the market in other areas, from dollar store perfumery to phony "15 year old single malt".

We should reject the unsound arguments that they use, unmask the profiteering and stick to genuine Cannabis extracts.

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Some good posts there guys I wanna get back to some of those later, but for now, I'll do a rare short post. I wanted to show this little vid I made of Matt's new glass-on-glass adapters, the 14mm male version. As you can see, the fit and function of these pieces is great. I still need to play around some more with the female-slot glass adapters which work great with my OGB dab bulbs, except for the extra glass height. I'll try to post that later this week, but for now:

I wanted to get a better view of the mod's screen so those of you who don't look at the screen while using or are unfamiliar with TC can get an idea for what's goin inside the mod. Missed that Maybe I'll try another time in portrait version, but everyone hates viewing people's cell phone videos at 9:16. It's 16:9!

And it was two little clumps of sugar cookie shatter as the initial load on a clean medium donut on the evic basic for a rather moderate, tasty cloud

Here is what was left after that: good for a couple more, decent reclaim hits

As you can see, if you don't follow precise loading methods like steve and OF, you will see splatter and melted oil touching the side walls and getting underneath the donut more easily. I tend to just drop a couple specs of unmelted shatter, on the hotter spot of the donut away from the wires, but maybe I should try the "paint the moon" type loading methods more to see how it differs.

Also, if I'm a prawn-ographer of oily donuts, would that be the money $hot?

 

[Volteric]

Now that I finally have some time, here is where I am at with the v3, and my current settings and setups...


I'm using e=0.6, I believe @fernand is using 0.5, and our results that are comparable seem to agree relatively well. Watch out, here comes my post about my dna75 trials and tribulations.....



Interesting that you have settled on 170 - my initial prediction was 1760 ppm (for Alumina w/ NiCr wire in the middle - my "educated" opinion on what the value might be), or TCR176. I believe many of the mods go by 5's, could any of your mods dial in at 175? Maybe this will be even better (even closer to actual temp)?

The curve I am using for my large donuts that came with my white v3's (**this is important and I'll get to it!) is a modified curve that started with the curve equivalent to TCR176. I originally created one that was slightly off of TCR190, but re-assessed after my preheat wasn't working too well. Here is my curve for the "old" v3 large donuts. See below why I call them old. These agree with my IR gun set at e=0.6 within 2 degrees C, since I aim for 200C (sometimes 210 when I am feeling higher temps).

This is my v3 "old" large donut curve. Tested thoroughly.



Well, my vt75 will kick out when the post holes are "gunked up" and it is cold - when it is heated up, this goes away. The DNA75 chips are super sensitive to stable resistance - they are really good at TC, but rely on very stable resistances to do it. The gunk messes with the stability, from what I see. Loosening and re-tightening the screws on the posts clears this up for me, but necessitates a screwdriver being handy. So far, the vt75 stays at home, which is probably good since it is so large. I am also using an iStick TC40W that came from one of Matt's auctions, and a Tesla Stealth TC40. The Mrs is now using my minivolt, which she for some reason loves (even though it is more difficult to use with the v3...).

The 26650 is there for scale (diameter of about the size of a quarter). That's the spare battery for the vt75 - I am charging one battery every week on this thing, and using it almost exclusively at home. As you notice, the Tesla with the v3 is almost identical in height to the 26650... You can see I have the vt75 set to my v3 large profile, since it's at 18.6W. I use the medium donut on it at 12W.

I've created custom screens for most of the possible screens on the vt75 (at least the ones I will see for my usage). The first 3 shown are pulled from evolv's forums, and the rest are custom, with some symbols borrowed/derived from. Kanthal isn't used and for temp protection I have it show the reached temp, so I do not need a custom screen here either. I leave alone the new coil screen, because I want to see my measurements, and I haven't created a screen with holes in the right place yet.

Now, for the profiles I created for the different setups:

For the medium donut, the above is still in "testing" - with its own "profile screen" that tells me what it is!

And for the "old" large donut, again with a custom screen for the profile, and with my final settings. This is what I am sticking with.

And when I'm playing around and want to mess with TCR, I use this profile (wattage is currently set for use with medium donut but can be changed on the mod):

Since I just got the black v3's (and medium donuts) this week, I am still working on the curve for them. I am dedicating one black v3 to the Tesla TC40, which I use in the Ni setting at 13W with the medium donut. With temp set at 290F, I am getting a reading of around 375F with peaks around 380F, which is a little low, but this mod is less intuitive to use and that is "safe" enough for me, so I am sticking with it. It produces solid vapor for 2-3 hits after loading and then gets a few wispy hits before tasting dry. To clean the donut I turn it up to 15W (in VW, not TC-Ni) and pulse until it is white.

As for the eleaf iStick TC40W, I am using it in the TC-Ni setting at 280F. When in TC mode with this mod, you cannot select the wattage - it is automatically 40W until temp protect, when it is then throttled. This works wonders for my large donut, sorta functions like the DNA75 preheat in this way, and heats up way faster. These settings give me readings of around 395-405F, so I am happy. I tried a medium donut on here and POOF! Now, this is probably just me messing something up, because @divinetribe told me via email that he has used the medium donut with no issues. It should work, and I will test with another donut, at lower temp, but just a caution that it could blow a medium donut, since the wattage isn't adjustable in TC mode. Be careful, but it is workable.

I will continue to try out the medium donut on my vt75, and when I have a solid curve for it I will update with that, here.
[[Spot for v3M DNA TC curve....]]

Now for some weird stuff...
**Why is it important that these large donuts came out of my white v3's? Well..... now that I have ~15 or so donuts, I've done some serious fooling around. Something odd was noticed.... all 3 of my donuts that came with my first v3 (white) clocked in under 0.5 ohms. I recently won one of the auctions for another white v3 coupled with the eleaf iStick TC40W, and those also all 3 clock in under 0.5 ohms. I'm not sure if Matt asked for this, and I haven't run it by him yet, because I didn't realize.. but the "large" donuts that shipped with the black v3's are NOT the same! They all (I got 2 v3 black, or 4 of these "new" large donuts) clock in at exactly 0.63 ohms on my vt75. I have blown 3/6 of the "old" large donuts, but of the 3 left, I have tested two extensively, and both still clock in under 0.5ohms (0.45 and 0.47), even on the same (unused) base that now shows 0.63 ohms for the "new" large donuts. So, what's going on??

Well... I think they have a different coil inside! Yikes! More unknowns! I can tell that they are different, because on the "old" large donuts, I cannot see the coil inside. On the "new" ones, I can! Can anyone else (@Bad Ocelot I know you have both, and anyone else with both too) comment on anything you've noticed about the "new" large donuts? Are you getting a different base resistance?


Now... for the WEIRD stuff... (to come in the morning.... cause I am too vaked by this point to go any further...)

At @fernand 's suggestion for a good v2-alike to use with the crucibles, I set out to find one with the shallow bowl that looks like his. I found, accidentally when the glue at the base failed, that the model I found on eBay... it's totally rebuildable - but since I haven't torn apart an authentic v2, I'm wondering if anyone else has seen anything like this, with a genuine unit or an "alike." This is super weird, but I'll add some photos in the morning!

Edit: Saw @Steven 's edit about the cup heater.. Matt sent me some autocad previews and it looks pretty good so far. It appears like there will be 2 sets of airholes near each other like on the v2.7 base on the inside. I don't know how this compares to the v2-alikes some of us have, but I like the airflow of those (which are 4 separated by 90 degrees, instead of two pairs)

The V3 sits in the Telsa Stealth? That looks sick! Any draw backs? I'm thinking of picking up that Telsa if the V3 works well in it.

 

[divinetribe]

Cleaning The Donut

 

[Volteric]

Cleaning The Donut

Thanks for shipping so rapidly! Dumb question: should I load the half bb size into the hole or around it? Can I use more since this is larger than the 2.7? I'm using the pico battery mod and wondered what temperature you prefer and wattage?

 

[SameOldTim]

Ive been doing some heavy testing of the V3...... Spectacular results!!!

 

[Volteric]

Ive been doing some heavy testing of the V3...... Spectacular results!!!

What temp and wattage have you found spectacular results?

 

[StickyShisha2]

the white ceramic of the DT and the white Pico look sexy together.