Divine Tribe atty's

[bizwaxzion]

Check the wiki tab on the top of the arcticfox page and click on the nighly builds - looks like support for the primo was added in build 170214.
170214
Eng:
[+] - eVic Primo support

Primo mini showed up today. Used the stock firmware a couple times - nice little mod. Just visited the arcticfox site and see that the primo line is now officially supported in the latest release. New screen option available for large screen mods too. Speaking of screens, if I have one complaint about the primo mini its that the screen is flat behind a curved plastic cover which makes reading the screen outdoors almost impossible.

Reflashed wtih arcticfox firmware.

 

[looney2nz]

I was thinking that's another possibility @looney2nz
I only swapped the donut last night, I didn't do a full cleaning so if that's the case it could be giving me a higher reading on this 10mm donut too. I need to pull a Vape Donkey and get another v3 so I can swap parts while others are cleaning.

Interesting thought looney on the mounting, as I mentioned above I have a donut in my drawer where the leads broke off too short and caused early retirement too.

I've got 2 v3's, and will likely buy another Although they just supplement the new Vape Donkey version of the Cubis Pro Mini that Matt is now working on with Vape Donkey (I've got 3).
On top of that I've got replacement kits for both the 10mm and 13mm donuts and cups. Not very expensive, and makes for a quick solution to most problems. That reminds me, I've also got to order a couple more batteries and a new charger to keep up with all the units in rotation!

These have all been lifesavers of late, I've been medicating @ 4x my normal rate due to changes in my cancer. (all together now... 'FUCK CANCER!!!')

In another life I built recording studios and mixing/mastering rooms... I could swear I remember a connector (much larger) that used 2 broad blades to distribute the force on the wire (which would save the early mechanical failure of the leads, and at least shield the lead wells from oil). I can't draw for sh*, or I'd try and twist up a jpeg.

ok, so between the more recent eVic firmware, the articfox code, and that code on github (brain-farting on the name)... any preferences sorting out?

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

I've got 2 v3's, and will likely buy another Although they just supplement the new Vape Donkey version of the Cubis Pro Mini that Matt is now working on with Vape Donkey (I've got 3).
On top of that I've got replacement kits for both the 10mm and 13mm donuts and cups. Not very expensive, and makes for a quick solution to most problems. That reminds me, I've also got to order a couple more batteries and a new charger to keep up with all the units in rotation!

These have all been lifesavers of late, I've been medicating @ 4x my normal rate due to changes in my cancer. (all together now... 'FUCK CANCER!!!')

In another life I built recording studios and mixing/mastering rooms... I could swear I remember a connector (much larger) that used 2 broad blades to distribute the force on the wire (which would save the early mechanical failure of the leads, and at least shield the lead wells from oil). I can't draw for sh*, or I'd try and twist up a jpeg.

ok, so between the more recent eVic firmware, the articfox code, and that code on github (brain-farting on the name)... any preferences sorting out?

D'oh! F that cancer! Looks like you need to medicate in as many ways that can help you, dosing as much as is beneficial. Maybe it's about time to get a dab rig and try a SiC dish? But when the donut isn't already loaded up for you, it's nice to be able to dispense about 2-4 tasty mg's at the press of a button, always ready as long as the oil level in the tank and the battery are good. Closest thing to a v2.5 in a tank, right?

Trying to keep my horde of V3s clean and loaded up is a task that keeps me busy, and I've been slacking on some important stuff too. I should be trying to draw up some coil designs, and get around to dissecting some of these prototypes that SZ crossing sent us. (busy, lazy) But at least I can rely on my donut tanks to always be ready when I pick them up. And it's even better to be able to choose from over a dozen different strains on demand, if I actually manage to keep all of my V3s loaded

Thanks again for your support and feedback early on with this project, I hope we can nudge those #'s back in the other direction . . .

and also; I have posted up some excessively detailed guides for all on how to make your own "vape donk" cubis atomizers if you can't wait for the factory version, and you're a handy coil builder.

double post sorry

And in the meantime...chieftain of the @divinetribe has been busy in his own dab lab with new ideas and concepts? A quartz cup with a heated bottom? I hope the inside floor of that quartz cup / crucible can be flat, with tubes heating it from the bottom, not like a quartz cup with trenches inside?

And what happened to the ceramic crucible cup? It's not so easy to make cutting edge vape ideas into reality I guess

Primo mini showed up today. Used the stock firmware a couple times - nice little mod. Just visited the arcticfox site and see that the primo line is now officially supported in the latest release. New screen option available for large screen mods too. Speaking of screens, if I have one complaint about the primo mini its that the screen is flat behind a curved plastic cover which makes reading the screen outdoors almost impossible.

Reflashed wtih arcticfox firmware.

Nice...that is my ideal screen, it's showing just about every possible useful measurement and setting all at once, (except TCR #?) with many of them being live figures too? Squeezing in alot more info than the old smaller screens.

Sucks about the rounded screen outside though.

I'm starting to think the AF is the better 3rd party firmware for these devices now, especially with @clockselect no longer working on myevic. I think some other developer might have picked up a fork off his myevic, but it's hard for me to follow.


Ok, who wants to buy 5 or 6 vtc / vtwo minis from me? (make space for some primos)

 

[Beardome the Cautious]

Hey Y'all, longtime lurker here! Loving the V3 & Hydrotube it's excellent! I'm having a little trouble with ArcticFox though, I can't get the latest releases on my cuboid or Pico. Anyone else had this problem?

 

[Other Side]

I know that your requirements are slightly different (DT attys being rather short) but now even if I find the Primo Mini very attractive, I wouldn't want anything else than a side-by-side mod design (at least for attys below 23mm diameter)

I'm re-posting here the good ECF thread about that "SBS" trend, it explains indirectly how it evolved: https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/listing-side-by-side-mods.706607/

I've been enjoying the Smoant Knight V2 myself, and for longer attys and stem-as-a-bowl's like the Project the form factor is so much better. It also offers some protection for the atty and this is quite welcome with the latest version which is all-glass.

Being only interested by single cell mods (I don't need more than 40W in practice, and I don't mind swapping cells as long as it's quick and easy) here's a selection of candidates for your next MAS surge:

- Tesla Stealth 70W ($33) >> interesting but no custom TCR and no USB port
- Athena eNVy Plus 75W ($34) >> bad reviews about TC implementation
- KangerTech JUPPI 75W ($44) >> some poster in the thread said Kanger TC implementation is crap
- Wismec Reuleaux RX75 ($26 on sale @ FT) >> not really SBS, compatible with custom firmwares
- Vaporesso Attitude 80W ($38) >> barely SBS but nice
- JomoTech Lite 76ERS ($30) >> not really SBS but kind of a Pico clone (they also make herb vapes)
- Smoktech SMOK AL85 ($37) >> another very similar to Pico

Note: the last two are for reference, unless you find them prettier I think the Pico would be a better choice due to the availability of custom firmwares.
Note2: for the Kanger JUPPI the guy said that TC was crap for previous devices but wasn't talking about this particular model. I don't know how well or bad it works.
Note3: the Tesla is not bad at first glance but I think the Knight V2 is a better choice.
Note4: I didn't list SBS mods with integrated batteries but there are quite some nice ones, refer to the thread for reference.
Note5: there's also the Innokin VTR but it's only VW AFAIK.

I'm on a shopping spree! I like the Vaporesso, I'll try to find some reviews... And maybe a metal finish Pico...and damn that Primo Mini is sweet too! Wait?!! Didn't I just say...?! Doh!

- Smoktech SMOK AL85 ($37) >> another very similar to Pico

Note: the last two are for reference, unless you find them prettier I think the Pico would be a better choice due to the availability of custom firmwares.

I own both the Pico in SS and AL85 in black. While I do find the Smok "prettier" I like it it better for other reasons beyond that.

They are very similar in size. The Alien is actually a touch bigger but the difference is negligible. But the Alien feels like it has a bit more heft. I like the trigger better than the button (something I like about all the Smok mods). I like the control buttons being on the side as opposed to the bottom. Lastly I like the display much better. More info and easy to read yet you can black it out for stealth mode should you wish.

That said I have not tried any of the custom firmwares so can't speak how that would influence my feelings but based on the stock setup, the Alien has it in my book.

Just wanted to provide some alternative perspective for those who may be researching both.

 

[bizwaxzion]

Hey Y'all, longtime lurker here! Loving the V3 & Hydrotube it's excellent! I'm having a little trouble with ArcticFox though, I can't get the latest releases on my cuboid or Pico. Anyone else had this problem?

I just applied build 170510 to a pico, rxmini and vtwo mini without issue. Can you be more specific about the problem(s) you are experiencing? Have you reflashed these mods with a previous version of the arcticfox firmware?

 

[Beardome the Cautious]

I just applied build 170510 to a pico, rxmini and vtwo mini without issue. Can you be more specific about the problem(s) you are experiencing? Have you reflashed these mods with a previous version of the arcticfox firmware?

Thanks for answering!

I have, currently these mods have 170215 on them, but when I try any versions from May the firmware installer states the firmware isn't suitable for the device

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

@Beardome, welcome to the tribe

So you have already flashed your device with a previous AF build; did you also download and install the latest version of the NFE toolkit (v7.07, released 10 days ago) when you got the latest .bin file?

I ask, because when I tried plugging in my newest mod (a primo) into an older build of the NFE updater to flash the latest .bin, it didn't recognize my mod with the usb cable. I didn't think it was necessary, but the latest version of NFE was necessary to recognize the primo, then I was able to flash the latest build, no problem.

That's just one possible reason I can think of, and the other one being to use a data-capable USB cable, not one that is just for charging. But since you've already flashed the FW, that's probably not the problem... hope that helps

 

[bizwaxzion]

I think @Vape Donkey 650 has likely pinpointed the issue. For any given release of the firmware, the specific release of the toolkit is also needed.

 

[Beardome the Cautious]

@Beardome, welcome to the tribe

So you have already flashed your device with a previous AF build; did you also download and install the latest version of the NFE toolkit (v7.07, released 10 days ago) when you got the latest .bin file?

I ask, because when I tried plugging in my newest mod (a primo) into an older build of the NFE updater to flash the latest .bin, it didn't recognize my mod with the usb cable. I didn't think it was necessary, but the latest version of NFE was necessary to recognize the primo, then I was able to flash the latest build, no problem.

That's just one possible reason I can think of, and the other one being to use a data-capable USB cable, not one that is just for charging. But since you've already flashed the FW, that's probably not the problem... hope that helps

I think @Vape Donkey 650 has likely pinpointed the issue. For any given release of the firmware, the specific release of the toolkit is also needed.

Thanks guys, but with the latest NFE toolkit it still won't flash to my Pico. I'm going to keep messing with it, will post an answer when/if I find one!

 

[codyppc]

OK, FC

I just got my DTv3 with Pico 75w from Matt@divinetribe. Thanks Matt.

I have read this thread for days. Been looking for best setting for DTv3 on my Pico 75w. A lot of people used a lot of different settings when the V3 first came out. I'm sure most of those recommended settings have changed from since. things like TC vs TRC, TRC settings, ect. I am totally new to this, so please, be easy on me.

I have flashed it with Articfox.

I would love to hear What your Current Best/Recommended settings for the V3?

Thanks, Cody

 

[looney2nz]

OK, FC

I just got my DTv3 with Pico 75w from Matt@divinetribe. Thanks Matt.

I have read this thread for days. Been looking for best setting for DTv3 on my Pico 75w. A lot of people used a lot of different settings when the V3 first came out. I'm sure most of those recommended settings have changed from since. things like TC vs TRC, TRC settings, ect. I am totally new to this, so please, be easy on me.

I have flashed it with Articfox.

I would love to hear What your Current Best/Recommended settings for the V3?

Thanks, Cody

so far the general rule of thumb for a starting point has been as follows:
TC=245 24W (I generally run mine up to 430F)
hopefully that will get you up and running...

 

[codyppc]

Another silly noob question...

How do you know when to clean dtv3? It seams as if I have slot of wax all over the inside of cup and housing, but it doesn't appear to be vapable anymore. I've tried to clean it off the sides with dab tool, but...

I just can't keep from thinking... if I do the "paper towel, then 20w clean disk white" now, I will be wasting precious wax.

I don't live in legal state, so wasteful I can not be.

I have watch the videos on cleaning, but it really doesn't say when?

How much do you consume before first paper towel cleaning? (Gram, 1/2 gram?)

How much consumed before complete tear down and ISO cleaning?

Thanks, Cody

 

[codyppc]

so far the general rule of thumb for a starting point has been as follows:
TC=245 24W (I generally run mine up to 430F)
hopefully that will get you up and running...

So, I've went back to the beginning (Post 1941, the release of the V3) and while re-reading this thread, I've started taking notes to everyone settings. LOL. Its now a full blown spread sheet with user info, post number in thread, link to that thread, ect.

I've only gotten halfway and see 245 has been the m value for TRC since the beginning really.

I still don't quite understand how wattage matters much in TCR or TC. Aren't we really just focusing on Temp. If I understand this correctly, M value is just a way of calibrating real temp with display temp. Once the 245 was found, temp was temp.

In TC or TCR mode, how can I better understand "Watts"?

Maybe I have Temp misunderstood. Common sense says once you find temp material vapes at, temp is temp.

Thanks, Cody

 

[jpdnkstr]

So, I've went back to the beginning (Post 1941, the release of the V3) and while re-reading this thread, I've started taking notes to everyone settings. LOL. Its now a full blown spread sheet with user info, post number in thread, link to that thread, ect.

I've only gotten halfway and see 245 has been the m value for TRC since the beginning really.

I still don't quite understand how wattage matters much in TCR or TC. Aren't we really just focusing on Temp. If I understand this correctly, M value is just a way of calibrating real temp with display temp. Once the 245 was found, temp was temp.

In TC or TCR mode, how can I better understand "Watts"?

Maybe I have Temp misunderstood. Common sense says once you find temp material vapes at, temp is temp.

Thanks, Cody

TC and TCR are the same, temperature control and temperature control regulation respectively. Higher wattage will get you to your set temperature faster, the TCR numbers are a relationship of rise in resistance of your coil, which is how the mod actually determines temperature. I'm sure someone with a little more knowledge(@OF) will chime in shortly but I believe this is correct.

 

[OF]

TC and TCR are the same, temperature control and temperature control regulation respectively. Higher wattage will get you to your set temperature faster, the TCR numbers are a relationship of rise in resistance of your coil, which is how the mod actually determines temperature. I'm sure someone with a little more knowledge(@OF) will chime in shortly but I believe this is correct.

'Close enough for Jazz' as the saying goes. Actually TCR is "Temperature Coefficient of Resistance", as you said a way of measuring temperature. Like you do with a thermistor (a resistor that changes value in response to temperature) in say Solo/Air or with a thermocouple (thermal based generator) in a furnace or even mechanical schemes like in gas ovens in kitchens 'everywhere'. TCR is a sensing scheme, not a control per se.

The key is the resistance of the metal changes with temperature. A lot, fortunately, in this case. This is not always so, some metals change very little, some are even compounded not to charge at all (for practical purposes). Ours changes about 1/4 of one percent per degree C rise, it's a so called 'positive TC' material. Not all are positive, some are negative. Here "TC" means Thermal Coefficient, not a control scheme since it describes the material characteristics. To be specific ours is about 2450 parts per million per degree C, .245%, entered as an m value of 245 in our vapes.

So TCR based vapes temperature control using them, like thermistor based ones do?

Details probably not as important as enjoying the results? That said, this here Gen 2 and I are bound for the garden......gotta see why the birds are making so much noise.....

OF

 

[looney2nz]

'Close enough for Jazz' as the saying goes. Actually TCR is "Temperature Coefficient of Resistance", as you said a way of measuring temperature. Like you do with a thermistor (a resistor that changes value in response to temperature) in say Solo/Air or with a thermocouple (thermal based generator) in a furnace or even mechanical schemes like in gas ovens in kitchens 'everywhere'. TCR is a sensing scheme, not a control per se.

The key is the resistance of the metal changes with temperature. A lot, fortunately, in this case. This is not always so, some metals change very little, some are even compounded not to charge at all (for practical purposes). Ours changes about 1/4 of one percent per degree C rise, it's a so called 'positive TC' material. Not all are positive, some are negative. Here "TC" means Thermal Coefficient, not a control scheme since it describes the material characteristics. To be specific ours is about 2450 parts per million per degree C, .245%, entered as an m value of 245 in our vapes.

So TCR based vapes temperature control using them, like thermistor based ones do?

Details probably not as important as enjoying the results? That said, this here Gen 2 and I are bound for the garden......gotta see why the birds are making so much noise.....

OF

You're really diggin' that thing!

Sorry I didn't answer quickly, health is kicking my ass.

@OF of course nails the TCR definition.

the reason I set my power level to 24W (10mm donut), is to control how quickly it heats up and how much power is consumed (stretch them 18650's!), plus if something causes it to kick out of TCR, you won't necessarily risk blasting the donut with 75W (thermal fractures, etc.).

I'm sorely tempted to upgrade my prototype Vape Donkey dual donut atomizers... true synergy that I happened into the mix I think I love these things in the Cubis Pro Mini tanks as much as you love that Gen2

@codyppc I hope you got up and running ok, and are enjoying your donut!

Cleaning... I sometimes use the q-tip method, and save them up to stuff into my Herbie (which vapes all that stuff nicely! good medium to try and squeeze every drop out of the variety of dispensing packages.

Sometimes I heat the donut up, and use some wrist/arm action to whip some of the reclaim out of the cup so it can be grabbed (still has active compounds like CBN) from the chamber wall or mouthpiece.

I clean with 92% ISO, break the v3 down, soak, use an old toothbrush to get into crevices, blast with compressed air <don't let it be COLD>, re-assemble and heat to burn off any remaining ISO... if I do a burn-off, I do it at this point and omit the cup briefly (I prefer not to mess with the donut legs anymore than is necessary), I'm pretty sure the donut cup should handle the higher temps without removing it.

Oh... when it's soaking in ISO, I use a fine (jewelers) flat edge screwdriver to clear the lead wells as well as running some of the nylon bristols of the brush in and around the screw holes and lead wells.

 

[codyppc]

Thank you for the cleaning tips.

I feel as if i'm catching on with this whole wax vape thing, but i'm still YEARS BEHIND everyone. Its hard to ask some question with such an experienced group and not sound like a 15 year old.

I need to still seek out some elementary wax vape questions. I thought this wax vape thing was basically just put wax in cup and vape til gone. I didn't know we would have this unvaped left overs. Reclaim, I think its called. I still dont quite know whats still usable to vape and what to throw away. I don't want to waste any.

Thanks everyone for the help, Cody

 

[codyppc]

Ok, I not really having very much luck here.

I went through a gram of Craft710 Sesh PHO in 3.5 days. I was really hoping on a week. I normally smoke a 1/4oz a week, but wife has me trying to convert to a healthier choice. She first had me trying the oils. I thought the oils were too expensive, so I figured I would try the oils. I think I was better medicated with the oils or flower. I really didn't like the oils and felt as if I was always missing something.

I did get a few nice hits. Like my very first one. I have no idea what setting that was on, but that's not the point. I think my biggest problem is I don't know what I'm doing.

I've spent hours reading this thread. I started with post 1941 when Matt first released v3, and worked my way to 2085 documenting everyone settings and watching how you guys first used this setup.

The things I am missing are the basics I'm afraid...

I paint on a BB size load on clean donut.
Take hit at desired temp.
Then what? take another? Keep hitting it until no more vape? Am I suppose to be seeing vape cloud? Taste is awesome at low temp with no vape cloud, but am I properly medicating?

Then the next question...
Do I just reload another BB size load? Matt said not to over load, Ok.
What is this reclaim stuff building up that doesn't seem to be getting used up? Do I need to remove it before I load next hit? I dont want to waste ANYTHING, does the reclaim have anything left to medicate with? The oil had got thinker toward a .5g cartridge, but eventualy got all used up. Why isn't his reclaim getting used up? Can I just Turn up the temp to a more "Reclaim Cooking" Temp and get the leftovers? Kind of like scraping your pipe and smoking the resin. LOL. Got to admit, those were my favs.

And then the last questions...

How often should I be cleaning this and which way? I cleaned after first .5 gram. Everything went into ISO and came out like brand new. Burned off extra ISO and then did other .5g. I never did the 20w pulse clean donut white like Matt does in his video, because nothing was cooked on, or stuck to donut. ISO cleaned everything up very easy.

I have no problems taking everything apart and what not. Infact, I kind of like it. I just feel as if I'm either wasting the product, or something. I just thought I would last a lot longer than it did.

Any help would be great. I'm just going to give the wax a break and hit the flower for a few days. I have 3g of wax left and would rather continue my research on this v3 before I keep doing what I'm doing. Plus, I spent all this money on the Pico and v3, I dont want to think I blew it. I would love nothing more than to be able to make this work. Not giving up yet.

Thanks, Cody

 

[invertedisdead]

You're going to get different effects doing low temp hits with no visible vapor. Try turning up the temp until you find a good balance. You can also try doing longer hits when at lower temps, try pulsing the fire button once or twice and do a long slow draw. I've also been experimenting with covering the side air holes to act somewhat as a carb cap. I think the v3 as is may actually have a bit too much airflow which ultimately cools the vapor instead of increasing vapor production.

Reclaim and residual gunk are two different things, I like to barely wet a Q tip with water and use that to swab the donut while heating to mop up loose gunk on the donut or the ceramic housing, I then switch to the dry side and repeat. This goes a long way towards refreshing the taste though.

Ultimately you're gonna lose some material due to leaking and running due to the design of the donut. I finally figured out how to design a proper ceramic crucible cup which should solve the majority of the problems of losing concentrate.

 

[KeroZen]

Kind of like scraping your pipe and smoking the resin.

Awww! Please, no!!!

 

[codyppc]

You're going to get different effects doing low temp hits with no visible vapor. Try turning up the temp until you find a good balance. You can also try doing longer hits when at lower temps, try pulsing the fire button once or twice and do a long slow draw. I haven't got it too hot becuase i didn't want to burn andthing out, but i have been thinking a little more could do good. I like the taste of the cooler vapes and start to cough when it gets too hot. I dont mind coughing though. lol.

I've also been experimenting with covering the side air holes to act somewhat as a carb cap. I think the v3 as is may actually have a bit too much airflow which ultimately cools the vapor instead of increasing vapor production. I've been watching temps and keep inhale slow as too not pull unit out of Protection too long. i want to go faster, but understand doing so is not good.

Reclaim and residual gunk are two different things, I like to barely wet a Q tip with water and use that to swab the donut while heating to mop up loose gunk on the donut or the ceramic housing, I then switch to the dry side and repeat. This goes a long way towards refreshing the taste though. So, this is where you basicly remove all remaining residual? How much product is used before this is done?

Ultimately you're gonna lose some material due to leaking and running due to the design of the donut. I finally figured out how to design a proper ceramic crucible cup which should solve the majority of the problems of losing concentrate. Matt was great to work with, but I cant help to think that I'm going to waste more with the v3 than its worth. The taste is great.

Thanks for the reply. My replied (Questions) are in green.

Thanks, Cody

 

[invertedisdead]

Well what settings are you using? Protection just means it's at temp, it's not a bad thing.

I've been using one daily for about 6 months, I don't find it that wasteful, there's always going to be some loss to reclaim with concentrates whether dabbing or using a pen.

 

[codyppc]

Awww! Please, no!!!

I didn't think that would take long. I threw that out there because I wanted it to be known that I don't like to waste. Yes, sometimes the left overs are harsh, but there was always a good high there. I don't grow my own, or live in one of the lucky states where you can get what ever you want. its a lot harder to get this than flower. I work hard for my money and with wife, 4 kids, and 3 grand babies, I don't get a lot of money to play with.

Thanks everyone at FC for all the help and for not making me feel too stupid.

Cody

Well what settings are you using? Protection just means it's at temp, it's not a bad thing.

I've been using one daily for about 6 months, I don't find it that wasteful, there's always going to be some loss to reclaim with concentrates whether dabbing or using a pen.

You've been using the same cup and donut for 6 months without cleaning out the residual out? Thats what I wanna hear. I didn't have that much leakage because I kept trying to use up was in the cup. Infact, no real leakage under cup. most of it went over the top sides of cup and was running down. Minumal splatter once i slowed down inhale.

Cody

 

[invertedisdead]

You've been using the same cup and donut for 6 months without cleaning out the residual out? Thats what I wanna hear. I didn't have that much leakage because I kept trying to use up was in the cup. Infact, no real leakage under cup. most of it went over the top sides of cup and was running down. Minumal splatter once i slowed down inhale.

Cody

No I've been using the v3 atomizer, not the same donut. I've blown up a few seeing how far they go. I swab with a Q tip every couple days and do a full tear down deep clean every week or two-ish.