Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer

[Baron23]

The new adjusta-bowl has the same exact ID size bowl as the one your currently using .750" +/- .005.
Only the grove is larger.
I'm not trying to pull a fast one over on anyone. The screens are .78 and work exactly as intended.

It's the little lip that caught me by surprise. The second gen bowls that most people are using have a small lip protruding above the groove. This lip was left from reworking the bowls and removing the radius and modifying for the evo screen baskets. This lip is what prevents the .780 screen from being fully installed and clicking into the groove. Everyone here has used a bowl and screen before without a groove. Well these would work like that. Please don't purchase this screen for any other bowl than the new adjusta-bowls. I purchased a errlectric screen over a month ago and can confirm it will pass by the lip of the current bowl. The screen I received from errlectric did not ship with a material certificate.

So why the F did Edwyn purchase .78 screens?

My supplier had the .780 tooling on the shelf and allowed me to keep the cost of the screen down and reduce time to market. I'm not against purchasing the .750 tooling in the future but for now this is what we have. I believe they work perfect in the new Adjusta-Bowl.

@NewVape710 - Hi Edywn, if you say that both will fit fine, I'll take that to the bank. I'll order one tomorrow when they are back up on the site. Thanks

Yes, I thought the little lip was intended as a screen hold down feature. If I understand correctly, this was actually not intended and the groove into the side wall is where the screen retention happens. With that implementation, I can see where you might (will?) accomodate different size screens with equal precision.

Once again, thank you for your participation here and your willingness to directly engage with your customers. Very few vape companies will do that.

Cheers

Man all this grief over a screen

Well, my thought on this is if any of us was @steama who couldn't get his new screens to fit his bowl, we might not think it so inconsequential. Best to you, not trying to start an argument at all, just offering a slightly different POV.

 

[dontmindme]

Since theres talk about a insert...

I was wondering if a two piece that forms or confines the herb by a disc with two tapered ends and side intakes or spaces when they're combined. Like a funnel above and below and then in take air slots so they join with a dispersed air flow...

Maybe thats the flaw of conduction is that air never travels within the containment from the heated surface.

It'd be hot to handle, but you could also make it twist it to a restriction or more air flow.

So in the end... hot air would flow from above and when thats tapped out it goes in from the sides. The bottom insert will block the screens outer passages so its concentrated specifically to the herbs containment.

Complex, aint a kiss... but it might switch from conduction to convection in a instance and we are talking about micro-dosing...

I've gotten really good at typing with my thumbs.

I mean the showerhead could be modified to the upper portion so it is just a single insert and spin that handle to control side hot air intake... but thats up to the manufacturer.

 

[buddingglasshead]

The new adjusta-bowl has the same exact ID size bowl as the one your currently using .750" +/- .005.
Only the grove is larger.
I'm not trying to pull a fast one over on anyone. The screens are .78 and work exactly as intended.

It's the little lip that caught me by surprise. The second gen bowls that most people are using have a small lip protruding above the groove. This lip was left from reworking the bowls and removing the radius and modifying for the evo screen baskets. This lip is what prevents the .780 screen from being fully installed and clicking into the groove. Everyone here has used a bowl and screen before without a groove. Well these would work like that. Please don't purchase this screen for any other bowl than the new adjusta-bowls. I purchased a errlectric screen over a month ago and can confirm it will pass by the lip of the current bowl. The screen I received from errlectric did not ship with a material certificate.

So why the F did Edwyn purchase .78 screens?

My supplier had the .780 tooling on the shelf and allowed me to keep the cost of the screen down and reduce time to market. I'm not against purchasing the .750 tooling in the future but for now this is what we have. I believe they work perfect in the new Adjusta-Bowl.

Thank you for letting us know. I don't think anyone thinks you are trying to do anything negative to the customer base. It was just unfortunately mislabeled at the beginning as compatible with all flowerpot bodies I'd have been upset like @steama had I decided to go through with my purchased (before alpha was even released)

I really appreciate that you are going to keep the same design cosmetically as an option. It's really stunning and I think will make a great addition to my lineup. I think it'll look especially nice with the SH. Can't wait to get a double weave filter for it as well. However, I'd like to have them on all of my FP bodies so a .75 in the future would be great since I doubt the other bowls will get any use if what I'm told is to be believed about the double weave. Is this your ploy to make me spend more money!? /s

The people who really make me spend the money are these wonderful people in this thread. @steama's edit of his last post is going to have me adding more double weaves to a future cart.

I also like having dedicated bowls. two of my stubbies live in the double 14mm adapter for on demand destruction and the other is strictly dedicated to concentrates so I can still have the traditional enail style dabs.

 

[Hogni]

@steama ,Good advice! And how do you keep the screens clean?

 

[EmDeemo]

@steama ,Good advice! And how do you keep the screens clean?

Torch that sucker!

 

[EmDeemo]

I use a toothbrush with a l'il bit of ISO and brush with the grain of the screen on both sides and blow it dry with an electric air blower, takes about 30 seconds. If the screen is not clear when I hold it up to the light I just heat the clogged section with a bic lighter, flick the screen a couple times, and viola, clean as a whistle.

I never soak in ISO or full on torch the screen so they get handled very gently but are always clean.

bah!

theres only one way to be sure! -

 

[buddingglasshead]

hehe, yeah, most everyone I know torch clean their screens. I'm a fucking weirdo no doubt about it.

Guess I'm a fucking weirdo too.. I just clean my screens with qtips after emptying the bowl every so often and clean the body at the same time. I flip the filter and qtip after my first use to clean that side. The only time that wasn't enough was with the OG bowl and stainless screens because it would build up under the filter. Didn't matter though because I only replaced it ever 2-3 weeks and bought 50 with my first order.

 

[Pyr0]

Had to clean my screen for the first time yesterday.
I brush out the bowl and screen after each use but I noticed the edges getting clogged

I've been using a cheap SS screen I had laying around (new)

I just dipped it in a little iso and used some kitchen roll to dry it out but there was a lot of crud in the bowl too under the screen, around the ledge.

Would a larger gap below the screen work to get better airflow around the edges?
Or more of a taper?
It just seems at the moment that the screen sits quite low and almost in contact with the shoulders/ledge

 

[Square4Life]

Well, I did something different last night and I got to say, I think it may have changed my main method of use with the FP. Previous to this, I was all about temp stepping...large loads, tasty low temp hits in the beginning, temp step throughout, finish out at high temp and then start over. The FP was doing this just fine although...1.) I felt like I was blasting through material 2.) The temperature control on the controller is quite annoying to me. It's either changing 1 degree at a time or a hundred (joking but if I hold the button down and try the 'fast' mode, I usually overshoot my temp a good bit and have to then go in the opposite direction. Regardless, because of this, temp stepping can be kind of annoying with this controller. 3.) It just felt like it was more 'work' than it was worth.

Anyhow, last night, I did the complete opposite. Loaded up .025-.03 (this was done with the current handle bowl on NV (not adjustabowl), temp was set to around 700 (started at 730 and kept bringing it down, felt 730 was a bit scorchy), get one really nice hit that was just about perfect for me (.025 for the wife), take the packing end of the pax loading tool and smash the material, get a little whispy hit (this depends on the coarseness of grind, finer grind and the 2nd hit wasn't needed), and then dump it all out. With this bowl and this temp, I was able to microdose AND achieve the dark brown ABV like I wanted...AND in essentially one hit. Not only that, as everyone already knows, the effects from the material is much more powerful than temp stepping. At the end of the night, I used WAY less than I normally would have if I had been loading half to full size bowls. I was so impressed, I'll be doing this again but with weights so I can figure out how much more efficient (for me).

I know some people do not like the higher temps (or their body does not appreciate them as much) although this is a game changer for me. The amount of material the 'FP' was consuming was going to become a problem! haha

Edit: that funnel shaped insert would still be awesome as it would hopefully allow for this same method but the ability to do so at lower temps with better flavor

 

[pxl_jockey]

Buncha fucking weirdo clean screen loving screen-cleaners.

I want to be like you when I grow up.

 

[Danksta]

Torch that sucker!

If you're using the Errlectric screens, I recommend keeping the screen in the bowl when you torch it. Constant removal killed one of my screens after about 3 weeks of use, maybe 2. The edges start to fall off. They become a health hazard at that point as one could inhale bits of Ti without knowing. If you keep the screen in the bowl it will last longer.

 

[Hogni]

Edges felt off? Perhaps a good way to make the NV ti screens fit to the regular bowls?

 

[EmDeemo]

hehe, yeah, most everyone I know torch clean their screens. I'm a fucking weirdo no doubt about it.

Hey, see the post by @Danksta (thanks by the way, noted), your screens will last, mine will die, which makes you a careful user and me a careless tit

Would a larger gap below the screen work to get better airflow around the edges?
Or more of a taper?
It just seems at the moment that the screen sits quite low and almost in contact with the shoulders/ledge

Yup, this is something I would like to see. Full airflow around the screen.

 

[Baron23]

So, I said yesterday that I would order the adjustabowl today when it went back on sale (this is after giving Edwyn some degree of shite about the screens! LOL).

Just want you to know I'm good at my word....but they aren't back up for sale quite yet.

I'll check back later today.

He does have pics of both styles of adjustabowl bodies up....no sure which to get, though I do really like the looks of the one with the two thin rings at the top.

Cheers

 

[muunch]

How are you torching it clean while keeping it in the bowl? It's really hard to effectively clean until I pulled it out and held it with some tweezers while I torched it... but holy fuck what a difference... I put probably 1oz thru and the most cleaning I did was a soak in iso... after torching it, the airflow difference is really night and day.

 

[Danksta]

How are you torching it clean while keeping it in the bowl? It's really hard to effectively clean until I pulled it out and held it with some tweezers while I torched it... but holy fuck what a difference... I put probably 1oz thru and the most cleaning I did was a soak in iso... after torching it, the airflow difference is really night and day.

I use pliers and and adjust the flame length to fit inside the bowl. It works really good. Or if you can put the bowl on something safe (not a rig joint), you can torch the entire bowl and the inside lip will get clean too. I was removing the screens because of that lip. But torching the crap out of it seemed to solve that issue for me.

Fire looks really cool when you aim it in the bowl.

 

[Hogni]

We want pics of burning bowls!

 

[muunch]

Yeah, I put mine on the extra HOT-post stand thingy on my circle stand and torched it but it wasn't good. I'll bust out the pliers next time. There was a ton of goop in that ring but I suppose it'd all be good if I just torched it for a bit?

 

[Danksta]

Yeah, I put mine on the extra HOT-post stand thingy on my circle stand and torched it but it wasn't good. I'll bust out the pliers next time. There was a ton of goop in that ring but I suppose it'd all be good if I just torched it for a bit?

Yea just get that thing glowing red for a decent amount of time. Looks cool as shit.

 

[invertedisdead]

I know some people do not like the higher temps (or their body does not appreciate them as much) although this is a game changer for me. The amount of material the 'FP' was consuming was going to become a problem! haha

Edit: that funnel shaped insert would still be awesome as it would hopefully allow for this same method but the ability to do so at lower temps with better flavor

The way I see it is higher temps on the PID increase the thermal mass of the Showerhead body but don't necessarily mean a higher temp draw; it's up to us to fine tune our experience with grind size, packing density, draw rate, and carb capping. I've been getting some big thick hits at higher temps with a faster draw and still getting good flavors. It takes quite a bit more power on the PID to one hit hand torn flowers than fine grind flowers.

There's always going to be that fine line between getting max flavor or max cannabinoids though.

 

[Square4Life]

The way I see it is higher temps on the PID increase the thermal mass of the Showerhead body but don't necessarily mean a higher temp draw; it's up to us to fine tune our experience with grind size, packing density, draw rate, and carb capping. I've been getting some big thick hits at higher temps with a faster draw and still getting good flavors. It takes quite a bit more power on the PID to one hit hand torn flowers than fine grind flowers.

There's always going to be that fine line between getting max flavor or max cannabinoids though.

I definitely agree about the faster draw can compensate for higher temps and essentially bring the air temperature down allowing for tastier hits. It's a really neat process to play around with although I think I'm figuring out my preference more and more.

Yeah, I put mine on the extra HOT-post stand thingy on my circle stand and torched it but it wasn't good. I'll bust out the pliers next time. There was a ton of goop in that ring but I suppose it'd all be good if I just torched it for a bit?

Was the screen itself sitting on the post? I did mine by holding the handle on the bowl and torched the screen but you may not be using one with an equipped handle.

 

[Pyr0]

The way I see it is higher temps on the PID increase the thermal mass of the Showerhead body but don't necessarily mean a higher temp draw; it's up to us to fine tune our experience with grind size, packing density, draw rate, and carb capping. I've been getting some big thick hits at higher temps with a faster draw and still getting good flavors. It takes quite a bit more power on the PID to one hit hand torn flowers than fine grind flowers.

There's always going to be that fine line between getting max flavor or max cannabinoids though.

I've been slowly creeping up the temps on the PID along with my draw speed.
Last night I was at 680 and nowhere near combustion. ABV was a nice toasted brown, not dark at all

 

[EmDeemo]

How to keep your double weave screens clean and extend their life.

When you torch a screen red hot it will heat fatigue the small wire filaments and make them brittle and easily broken. I know titanium can handle higher temps than SS but because the wires are so thin screens really do not hold up well under high heat. It changes the character of the metal and not in a beneficial way.

I have had stainless steel screens last over a year and part of that is because I do not torch clean. An ISO dip for about three minutes can clean most dirty screens. If the screen is still dirty just soak a little longer.

Cleaning dirty screens never really mattered in the past because they are so cheap, still I was making a screen last for over a year.

Now with these expensive double weave Ti screens cleaning them in this nondestructive way will keep them lasting easily for over a years time and longer.

Yup. And I dont have money to burn so I'm going to end my destructive tyranny.

 

[Square4Life]

How to keep your double weave screens clean and extend their life.

When you torch a screen red hot it will heat fatigue the small wire filaments and make them brittle and easily broken. I know titanium can handle higher temps than SS but because the wires are so thin screens really do not hold up well under high heat. It changes the character of the metal and not in a beneficial way.

I have had stainless steel screens last over a year and part of that is because I do not torch clean. An ISO dip for about three minutes can clean most dirty screens. If the screen is still dirty just soak a little longer.

Cleaning dirty screens never really mattered in the past because they are so cheap, still I was making a screen last for over a year.

Now with these expensive double weave Ti screens cleaning them in this nondestructive way will keep them lasting easily for over a years time and longer.

If you're using the Errlectric screens, I recommend keeping the screen in the bowl when you torch it. Constant removal killed one of my screens after about 3 weeks of use, maybe 2. The edges start to fall off. They become a health hazard at that point as one could inhale bits of Ti without knowing. If you keep the screen in the bowl it will last longer.

I guess there's trade-offs either way...I haven't needed to remove the Errlectric screens yet but because of that lip, I'd imagine it'd be a pain to get out as it was quite snug going in past the lip. Thanks for the heads up though. When I heated mine the first time, I was worried about getting the titanium wires too hot. Definitely makes sense.

Next time I have to clean, I'll remove it and see how it goes.

 

[Justpassedu]

Just a heads up i took the plunge and ordered one of these cheap ultra sonic cleaners off ebay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/600-ML-Ult...0f75c:g:rr8AAOSw5bFZZEkV:sc:Other!11518!US!-1 , i take some warm-hot water and fill it than take my flowerpot parts/ screens in a ziplock of iso and submerse them. They are spotless in a few minutes , great investment for a few $. Plus my girl is happy as i clean her jewelry in it also. Using cold water will not work as well as i have tried it. This is not top of line by any means and better can be had but i figured for a few dollars why not try it and it does the job .