BOOST ULTRA Vapor System

[Scripto23]

Instantaneous vapor at a second's notice. A plug-in vaporizer that goes from room temperature to set vaping temperature in less than a second for on demand vaping has never been done before, until now. The BOOST ULTRA Vapor System reaches full operating temperature almost as fast as flicking a BIC!

The mouth piece of this "whip style" vape uses a capacitive touch sensor to detect when it is in contact with skin. Using this sensor the BOOST ULTRA is able to detect exactly when the user starts and stops drawing air. There is no need to leave a heater constantly running, burning away your herbals.

Once contact is detected, two fan cooled, 200 amp, power MOSFETs enable an ultracapacitor to instantly unload current into the heating element. Simultaneously, an LED illuminating the glass vaping chamber will fade from cool blue to hot orange. Desired temperature is reached in 1 second.

The MOSFETs' power discharge rate is regulated by pulse width modulation (PWM) which is set by a four way slide joystick on the front of the unit. Up and down for temperature, left and right to set LCD brightness. All user relevant information, such as temperature setting, capacitor voltage, LCD brightness, and heating element power meter, are displayed on the largest LCD screen to ever be put into a vaporizer.

There is an additional 12 volt auxiliary ceramic heater which will activate (alongside the stainless steel ultracapacitor heater) when capacitor voltage drops below 2.4 volts. This occurs after multiple rapid fire hits, such as a party situation, when the capacitor is depleted quicker than it recharges.

After 2 minutes of inactivity, the unit will go into standby mode, displaying the current time on the LCD screen. While in standby, the unit is still ready the microsecond it senses your mouth on the whip, instantaneously becoming vapor ready. While not in use, the Boost Ultra wastes no energy continuously powering a heat source, nor does it use any type of heat mass to retain heat. Thus there is no need to worry about leaving the vape on slowly burning away your herbals. It will also not present a hazard if forgotten about. In fact, the BOOST ULTRA is designed to be left powered on, as it will just patiently await your next toke all the while displaying the correct time (is it 4:20 yet?!).


Pictures can be viewed here

Video can be found here


Features:
* Touch sensitive whip, electrically connected with a magnet to the main unit

* Instant heat up

* Uses the well-proven Arizer bowl and whip system (also makes replacement parts easier to get).

* Modular power cable (standard computer cable that can disconnect for storage or transport). Also easy and cheap to find replacements.

* Will work on 110 or 220volts (can be adjusted via a small switch on the side)

* Blue and Orange LED illumination to show state of heater.

* Clearly visible glass vaping chamber let's you see the state of your herbals at anytime (even in the dark)

* Clock which will retain the correct time even after being unplugged. Runs on a small button battery which will last over 10 years.

* Handmade in the USA

Safety:
* Food grade materials. The ultracapacitor heater is made of stainless steel and copper (very similar to the Magic Flight Launch Box) There are no chemicals used in the formation of the element, but instead uses a physical bonding process with no solder and no lead. The 12 volt auxiliary heater is also ceramic, and the airpath through the unit is all glass.

* Power supply has automatic over voltage and short circuit protection.

* Safety sensor by the heating element that will not allow the heater to activate unless the glass bowl is inserted and sitting correctly.

* Heater will automatically turn off if it is on for longer than 30 seconds.


Technical information:
At the heart of the BOOST ULTRA is the 2.7 volt, 3000 Farad BoostCap Ultra capacitor. Put simply, ultracapacitors are able to output a ridiculously high current. The amperage that comes out of your wall for instance maxes out at 15 amps before the breaker trips, the short circuit current for this ultracapacitor is a whopping 9300 amps. To my knowledge, this is the largest production capacitor made and the capacitor alone retails for $95. The ultracapacitor is charged at 3.3 volts through ten 10watt power resistors at an exponentially decreasing current (at a max 28 amps) from the power supply. Charging state is regulated by a microcontroller which disables charging once the capacitor has reached 2.7 volts.

Pricing and Availability:
Currently this prototype unit is the only one in existence and is finishing going through alpha testing. Please excuse some of the "rough edges". Production units will be made in extremely limited quantities and I plan on creating 10 beta testing units next. The price for these will be set when finished but will most likely not be more than $490. Im not sure exactly when beta units will be finished production, but it will probably be about two months from now. In accordance with forum rules, please do not request to be a beta tester in this thread. If you would like to purchase a beta unit please email me at boost.ultravs@gmail.com

 

[AGBeer]

Interesting concept, and from the looks of your other posts you are for real (for real).

Good luck to ya when you get this project off the ground!

 

[lwien]

Gotta love this kind of innovation.

/salute

 

[WatTyler]

Hey Scripto, always good to see a new design- especially one with an auxillary heater! I think thats a first for the vape world?

So just to clarify- it seems from the vid that the heat begins when your lips touch the whip, rather than on the actual draw, right?

And are you able preheat the load a little in preparation for a hit, or do you take a quick draw kinda 'priming' the load?

Cheers

 

[Scripto23]

Yes, sorry if that wasn't clear, but heat begins when your lips touch the whip. You are able to preheat the load if desired by putting your lips on the mouthpiece then just waiting a little before inhaling. So far in testing I've found that preheating in this manner isn't necessary for longer than a second, but I'm still adjusting the extensive algorithm that governs the rate for heat up. There's over 1200 lines of code so there's a lot to sort out.

Also I've found that, as with almost any vaporizer, draw speed influence vapor consistency. Long slow draws are best.

 

[ThCombustion]

For some reason, it reminds me of the backpack The Ghostbusters have, lol.

 

[lwien]

For some reason, it reminds me of the backpack The Ghostbusters have, lol.

You're right.

 

[Scripto23]

Don't cross the streams

 

[pakalolo]

Thanks for a thorough description of what looks like an interesting unit.

It looks heavy, is it? You mention an all-glass path and Arizer-style cyclone bowl, does that mean there is an internal glass heater cover or similar? With a huge ass fan like that, I assume it will blow bags as well, but you don't mention that.

What is that thing that dangles from the whip in your video as you attach the whip to the bowl? What is the whip tubing?

I assume at some point there'll be a sleek casing to hide the guts.

 

[lwien]

Or.........change the name to......The FluxCapacitor Vaporizer !!

 

[Stu]

Very interesting indeed, Scripto. Would there be a secondary means of starting the heater? I prefer to hit my vapor through a bong, so the lip-on-mouthpiece "on" switch wouldn't work for me.

I will definitely be keeping my eyes on this thread.

 

[Scripto23]

Or.........change the name to......The FluxCapacitor Vapor System !!

I actually considered this I originally had three MOSFETS arranged in a triaglular shape that even resembled the flux capacitor. Though I ended up only needing two.

It looks heavy, is it?

It is quite solid, making it a bit on the heavy side. I don't have a scale though.

does that mean there is an internal glass heater cover or similar?

The heater element is merged with the glass heater cover, which is what the bowl "docks" onto. I will post a picture of the heating engine soon.

EDIT: here are a couple of pictures of the newest heating engine. Green is the ceramic heater. Acts as an auxiliary heater to the upper stainless steel one which sits a few millimeters below the screen. Please bear in mind that this is a prototype.

With a huge ass fan like that, I assume it will blow bags as well, but you don't mention that.

Well that fan at the back is for cooling, though everything is very overengineered, so that much cooling isn't really necessary, but better to be overengineered rather than underengineered. There are currently no plans to add a fan which will blow bags. I wanted to focus on making one really great whip vape rather than just a good whip/bag vape. It is possible that I might create another version in the future which does this, but not now.

What is that thing that dangles from the whip in your video as you attach the whip to the bowl? What is the whip tubing?

That is a magnet on the end of a wire which is what makes an electrical connectino from the mouthpiece sensor to the main unit. This way the whip is removable (very necessary) and no plugs or connectors are needed.

I assume at some point there'll be a sleek casing to hide the guts.

Production units will differ cosmetically but not drastically. In the design I was actually going for a industrial looking "techno art piece" and I kind of like how many of the components are visible. Though I understand this may not be for everybody.

 

[Scripto23]

Would there be a secondary means of starting the heater? I prefer to hit my vapor through a bong, so the lip-on-mouthpiece "on" switch wouldn't work for me.

Ha I actually hadn't considered this, but that's why this forum is great! Yes, it wouldn't be too hard at all to create another way to trigger the heater. The sensor on the whip is simply a thin wire connected magnetically to that black screw by the bowl. You can actually even activate it by just touching that screw, as I do towards the end of the video. Though I will now be looking into how to adapt it in a better way to work with external glassware.

 

[WatTyler]

Flux Capacitor


So another quick question I've got- what's the temp range? And at what point is it measured?

The instant heat up kinda reminds me in a way a little of the AroMed which has that bulb that once up to temp itself and in 'keep warm' mode, kicks into full life again once you start drawing. For me my Aromed works best at its max temp (220C), and it still takes a big primer draw to get the vapor going. This is a far higher temp than i'd ever use on a regulated airflow system like the volcano. But I think that it's because on the volcano I can put the bowl and airpump on for 5-6 seconds before adding the bag, to get the load up to temp and the vapor flowing. With whips I like the higher temp so the load doesn't have such a gradual thermocline and less need for airy initial draws.

 

[Scripto23]

WatTyler, I'm still working on calibration, but I expect the temp range will probably end up being 100-450F (maybe 500 but you would never need to go that high anyway). I'm running the auxiliary heater at a very low temp, and it's only even on when the voltage on the capacitor becomes low, but at full power (12 volts, 12 amps) I can get the ceramic heater up to 500F in about 10 seconds. Though this isn't necessary. With the instant heat up I've also found no need for a "keep warm mode".

With whips I like the higher temp so the load doesn't have such a gradual thermocline and less need for airy initial draws.

You said this pretty well and I definitely agree. I am running mine at around 370F (with calibration this may change slightly) since the heating element is just a few millimeters from the screen with the herbals, heat up is rapid and temp can be a bit lower.

 

[pakalolo]

does that mean there is an internal glass heater cover or similar?

The heater element is merged with the glass heater cover, which is what the bowl "docks" onto. I will post a picture of the heating engine soon.

Interesting. That looks less fragile than the Arizer heater cover, but be3ing glass it is still subject to breakage by klutzes like me. Would users be able to replace this? What is the anticipated warranty, or have you thought that far ahead?

Well that fan at the back is for cooling, though everything is very overengineered, so that much cooling isn't really necessary, but better to be overengineered rather than underengineered.

Agreed, but how noisy is that sucker?

What is that thing that dangles from the whip in your video as you attach the whip to the bowl? What is the whip tubing?

That is a magnet on the end of a wire which is what makes an electrical connectino from the mouthpiece sensor to the main unit. This way the whip is removable (very necessary) and no plugs or connectors are needed.

Now I understand why the whip was enclosed in a sleeve; you need a way to run the connection along the length of the whip. This will raise replacement issues, and possibly cleaning issues as well.

I assume at some point there'll be a sleek casing to hide the guts.

Production units will differ cosmetically but not drastically. In the design I was actually going for a industrial looking "techno art piece" and I kind of like how many of the components are visible. Though I understand this may not be for everybody.

If that's the intended look I have no problems with it, especially if it does the job. It would certainly blend into my surroundings here in my office, not so much in the living room where I keep the Extreme to enhance our TV viewing. That wouldn't keep me from using it there, I'm just saying my living room is not techno-industrial in motif.

 

[hereatlast]

Very interesting design and prototype Scripto23.

I think using the Arizer style glass is a great idea especially in terms of the future compatibility it will offer.

I'm with Stu in his interest for an alternate activation process that would allow a user to utilize their preexisting glass. Would an alternate mouthpiece allow the same function for touch activation (e.g. another piece of glass like a GonG H20 adaptor)? I could see it as a very cool feature if a bong/bubbler user could just touch their GonG piece during their hit.


I'll swack the emoticon pakalolo just used as I'm tuned into this project
Best of luck in the next steps and it seems to go without saying that you'll keep us informed.

 

[Scripto23]

pakalolo, you are a smart man (or woman). In your post you touched on the two biggest, and perhaps only, issues I foresee.

First, since the heater is integrated into glass, replacement could potentially be an issue. On a previous version of the heat engine I had high current plugs so it could be pulled out if necessary. However, these were bulky and I was still worried about current being wasted as heat. I plan on running what I'm terming a "glass break test" which will be very sad, but necessary. I'm going to expose the unit to all types of stresses that it would encounter in everyday (and abnormal) usage. I'll find the weakest link which I am hoping is the bowl, because this is the cheapest and easiest to replace. I'll report back with my findings once complete. I haven't thought too much about warranty just yet, but I plan on including some form.

Secondly: Yes, the whip is covered to protect and hide the sensor wire. Since the whip is custom, replacement could be an issue. I plan on making the whip as user friendly as possible to make replacement of the silicone hose easier. I would encourage cleaning over replacement of the silicone though.

The fan noise isn't an issue at all. I actually had to install a light on the front of the unit during testing so I could tell when it was on because I kept thinking it was broken since I couldn't hear anything. The fan is only on during charging anyway. Surprisingly the small top mounted fan is noisier and I've slowed it down making it significantly quieter as well.

hereatlast,
I'm not familiar with the GonG H20 adaptor (could you maybe point me to a source?) but it would be a very easy modification to allow a sensor to be placed perhaps on the side of a glass piece so that if you put your hand or finger in a certain spot it would activate. Or even have the sensor wire by the mouth opening so when you put it to your face it activates.

 

[hereatlast]

(available from several online retailers, this particular product is available at http://www.vaporwarehouse.com/vbh20adgg.html)

The backside is mated to the tubing just as a regular mouthpiece would be...the other side offers a male ground-glass connection (usually in a standardized 14mm or 18mm size though the dimensions can vary greatly) that mates with a female ground joint on the bong or bubbler. This is a common set-up that allows an airtight seal between the whip and water-filtration.

 

[s0n0fabeach]

Very interested in this design... A bit on the bulky side but that really wouldn't bother me as it would most likely just sit on my desk anyways... The instant heat up is CLUTCH if it indeed gets to vaporizing temp that quick without combustion...

Any ideas of a smaller, portable, possibly EPIC sneak-a-vape?

The instant heat up is what I am really excited about as if somehow you could make a portable version the instant heat up would allow me to walk out and take a quick vape rip while at work and no one would ever know...

As it is right now I have to pull the double sneak, once to let my current portable heat up and once to get a rip or two...

Either way I will continue to follow this thread as you have a very cool design here!!!

 

[Scripto23]

hereatlast,
Ah I see now, thanks. If you were to use something like that I can see three options on how to proceed.
1) you could wrap the sensor wire around the hose that connects from this adapter to your glass, then place the tip of the sensor where you want to touch for heater activation to occur. This is the way the hose on my unit is setup, the wire is wrapped around the hose, covered in the protective sheath, then the tip is exposed to your skin on the mouthpiece.

2) Alternatively if you don't mind the two being separate, you can setup everything normally then just take the wire directly from the front of the unit, without having it wrapped around the hose, and place it where you desire.

3) This is probably not the best option, but you could even completely do away with the wire, set up everything normally, then just put your finger on the screw sensor (where the wire magnetically connects to the unit) and activate it like that. Though this way requires you to devote a whole arm to activating the sensor rather than it being integrated. But I guess it's not any different than using a hand to flick a lighter.

s0n0fabeach,
I was thinking about doing a portable version. It would have to be on the larger side to contain the capacitor, maybe something like a water bottle. Combined with two AA rechargeables this would be entirely possible, but would have to do away with the microcontroller which controls heat (runs on 5v). A portable could even use the BOOST ULTRA to charge itself up adding additional functionality to the unit. But again, this would be a future project. I love all the ideas!

 

[Stu]

I think if you just built in some sort of "heater on" button on the unit itself (like when you just touch that screw on your prototype) would suffice just fine. I personally wouldn't want to be threading wire here and there on my glass or on the male downstem joint.

Another option maybe would be to put a small button at the end of the whip instead of the (admitedly cool) touch sensor to activate heating. It would be more handsfree as you could press it while holding the whip in your mouth, or press it as your putting your downstem GonG joint into your glass piece.

 

[Scripto23]

Stu,
I considered using buttons, but a touch sensor has the same features as a button and more, whereas a button is like a touch sensor but limited. The sensitivity can be adjusted from really sensitive (can sense you from inches away without even touching it) to acting as a force sensor (where you have to squeeze it real hard to trigger). After a lot experimentation, I settled on the setting it currently resides at.

Also "threading wire" isn't as bad or as messy as it sounds. It's a single wire, even simpler and less obtrusive than a headphone cable. And I haven't found it to be a problem at all with the prototype unit. But if you still don't want a wire, the screw essentially acts a little metal button anyway.

 

[charliedontsurf]

Holy monkey, it's awesome to see nearly fully-developed, aggresively innovative vapes show up in apparently near-production status, let alone at all!

My biggest question when seeing this very impressive vaporizer is what the price point is likely to be, and when will it be available?

 

[Scripto23]

Holy monkey, it's awesome to see nearly fully-developed, aggresively innovative vapes show up in apparently near-production status, let alone at all!

Thanks for the compliment It's funny that you mention how it just shows up because to me I've been working on it for months so it's good to have some "fresh eyes" take a look at it I have some pictures of it in various stages of development, but I don't know if people would be interested in that.

My biggest question when seeing this very impressive vaporizer is what the price point is likely to be, and when will it be available?

Currently this prototype unit is the only one in existence and is finishing going through alpha testing so please excuse some of the "rough edges". Production units will be made in extremely limited quantities and I plan on creating 10 beta units next. The price for these will be set when finished but will most likely not be more than $490. Im not sure exactly when beta units will be finished production, but it will probably be about two months from now. In accordance with forum rules, please do not request to be a beta tester in this thread. If you would like to purchase a beta unit please email me at boost.ultravs@gmail.com