Good luck Rick! Hopefully this change will get you even more business, or as much as you want, in any case, and put some of the criticisms to rest.
Hope all turns out well in Zapville!
Hope all turns out well in Zapville!
Howie Feltersnatch
Scalawag
When I saw your announcement last night over on the other thread I saw it as a well-thought move and hope that it will put an end to that whole ugly ongoing derogatory episode.
Now, this change to RoHS compliance doesn't REQUIRE an 8-12 week wait to be added on does it?
Ok, OK, I'll stop!
Maybe.
Now, this change to RoHS compliance doesn't REQUIRE an 8-12 week wait to be added on does it?
Ok, OK, I'll stop!
Maybe.
lwien
Well-Known Member
It did get ugly and derogatory at times but it was also a very informative thread, and I have no doubt that many, including myself, learned quite a bit. The fact is, is that I know of no other site where an in-depth discussion like that could take place. It's threads like those that makes FC such a great site for comprehensive info and a great resource for vaporizers.Howie Feltersnatch said:
momofthegoons
vapor accessory addict
I'm still practicing away and have a question for those of you who have had your MZ for a while. I've read that the MZ runs hotter after it's been "conditioned" and run a while. My ABV is quite green still and I'm considering buying the 13.5v from Rick to help speed things up a bit. For those of you who have used a koozie, has that helped significantly? I don't like the looks of it, but am a little leery of upping the voltage.
Also, do you find that if your grind is too fine that you have a hard time drawing? I'm struggling a bit trying to get the right grind. I might need to change grinders for this as mine grinds quite fine.
Ah, the learning curve...... Wouldn't it be nice if all learning curves were this much fun?
And something that all log vape owners can probably relate to; I just love putting on that Zapolish! Get a little on your finger, smear it around, lovingly stroking that wood......
Also, do you find that if your grind is too fine that you have a hard time drawing? I'm struggling a bit trying to get the right grind. I might need to change grinders for this as mine grinds quite fine.
Ah, the learning curve...... Wouldn't it be nice if all learning curves were this much fun?
And something that all log vape owners can probably relate to; I just love putting on that Zapolish! Get a little on your finger, smear it around, lovingly stroking that wood......
^^ well, the 13.5 v will be good. but i think for most people this is a temporary phase. once the mz dries out, you will get hotter vapor. getting the 13.5 v is great though for variety though depending on how hot you want your vapor, a coozie temporarily might do you just fine. this thing is totally your preference. if you got the 15 bucks, i'd say pick up the 13.5 and experiment. it can be fun. it will definitely make your mz more versatile.
the abv should NOT be green even for a new piece at 12 volts i don't think. though this is very strain dependent. i had some mids the other day that never went brown whatsoever. funny. and psychologically damaging. lol
grind. a fine grind lends itself to a harder pack. so i'd say if you are having a tough time drawing, it is because you packed your bowl too tight. even with the mz, i'd try just doing a light suck to fill up the bowl. leaves air tunnels between the herb for good even browning and also makes your mz even more efficient.
lol @ polishing the log. i like oiling mine too, though it does make me feel guilty and too self involved. hehe
the abv should NOT be green even for a new piece at 12 volts i don't think. though this is very strain dependent. i had some mids the other day that never went brown whatsoever. funny. and psychologically damaging. lol
grind. a fine grind lends itself to a harder pack. so i'd say if you are having a tough time drawing, it is because you packed your bowl too tight. even with the mz, i'd try just doing a light suck to fill up the bowl. leaves air tunnels between the herb for good even browning and also makes your mz even more efficient.
lol @ polishing the log. i like oiling mine too, though it does make me feel guilty and too self involved. hehe
momofthegoons
vapor accessory addict
By jove I think she's got it!
Just had another little practice session to lube me up for the morning and I can say that I think I've got the grind texture down now. The ABV is still much lighter than that of my whip style or LB, but has browned slightly. I'd say it's somewhere in between fresh and the ABV from the other vapes I have, so yes obelisk, I think it's a matter of the wood drying out with time. I think I will be picking up one of those 13.5v for the mean time.
Ah, these wood vapes are so cool. Hitting them (at least in the beginning) you get a little taste of the wood. Reminds me of my favorite wine, Retsina. It's a Greek wine, aged in pine barrels. Now either you love it, or hate it. Those who hate it say it tastes like turpentine. Those who love it say it has a "little magic."
Just had another little practice session to lube me up for the morning and I can say that I think I've got the grind texture down now. The ABV is still much lighter than that of my whip style or LB, but has browned slightly. I'd say it's somewhere in between fresh and the ABV from the other vapes I have, so yes obelisk, I think it's a matter of the wood drying out with time. I think I will be picking up one of those 13.5v for the mean time.
Ah, these wood vapes are so cool. Hitting them (at least in the beginning) you get a little taste of the wood. Reminds me of my favorite wine, Retsina. It's a Greek wine, aged in pine barrels. Now either you love it, or hate it. Those who hate it say it tastes like turpentine. Those who love it say it has a "little magic."
IAmKrazy2
Darth Vapor
Momofthgoons When i first used my Zap, i had a very difficult time browning my herb in a way i had grown accustomed with my PD. Weeks and weeks passed, same problem. I began using a 13v adapter (not 13.5v like most people) during sessions, and i would take it off after. This helped, but i still wasn't satisfied. Vapor seemed dryer and hotter then what i liked, but i was able to blow fat clouds.
Finally after having not even so much as tried the Zap for probably 5 or 6 weeks my friend brought it back from a loan. He raved about how great it was. So i packed one more stem, on the 12v adapter. It was working a lot better, much more satisfying.
A coozie will help too during the break in stage. If you attach some tubing to your stem or try and hit it though glass, you may be able to darken the herb more. But the easiest, try a coozie for a week or two.
Finally after having not even so much as tried the Zap for probably 5 or 6 weeks my friend brought it back from a loan. He raved about how great it was. So i packed one more stem, on the 12v adapter. It was working a lot better, much more satisfying.
A coozie will help too during the break in stage. If you attach some tubing to your stem or try and hit it though glass, you may be able to darken the herb more. But the easiest, try a coozie for a week or two.
pyronym
Harry Mooseknuckle
@mom I used to grind up all my herb for my zap and I used the straw method for filling the stems. My new method I call the punch method. I get way way way more out of the same amount of herb. take your dry buds and punch a hole through it with the stem It usually only takes 1 to 3 punches to fill it up(I also find that if I only want to vape half a stem this keeps the airflow correct.) I hit the stem until it is more or less cached(5 to 10 monster hits) I then remove the "plug" and shred it in my palm I use the straw method to get every thing back in the stem and then I have 5-10 more monster hits. I keep my zap wrapped in a sweatshirt so it runs a bit warmer but I never combust and I get every last oz of goodness out. It may be worth a try. Oh and with my zap wrapped the outside temp of the wood is around 170 degrees. the heater port(I think that's what the stem insertion area is called is around 245 degrees. so I also use the sweatshirt as a handle to keep my hand cool.
reece
Well-Known Member
momofthegoons, I love your sense of humor. And using a koozie will work as well as a higher voltage adapter in my opinion. I used a koozie at first. Not all of the time, only when I wanted to feel more stoney, usually later in the evening. But even before I used a koozie the herb browned well, no green. Although now it gets a darker brown.
I also used a higher voltage adapter later on because I hated covering up my Zap (even though it was with a SUPER BOWL CHAMPION NEW ORLEANS SAINTS! koozie). But by that point my Zap had broken in a bit and the vapor was too harsh.
And to me the stem packing reminds me of a dugout, especially the way pyronym loads his. I used to do it that way but now I do more of a combination of a very light straw method and then pressing and twisting the tip against my grinder screen to level the material in the tip.
But once you get it like you like it, you got it. But I still over pack sometimes. Just like a dugout batty.
Hey Rick,
In that other thread you said the heat sink was made of the same alloy as the tubing but a different manufacturer. Did you later find out it wasn't the same alloy?
Sorry to hear about your troubles. I hope all goes well.
Life is always throwing these humps in our way. But without humps, there would be no getting over. I have confidence you guys will get over the hump and be stronger for it. Good luck.
I also used a higher voltage adapter later on because I hated covering up my Zap (even though it was with a SUPER BOWL CHAMPION NEW ORLEANS SAINTS! koozie). But by that point my Zap had broken in a bit and the vapor was too harsh.
And to me the stem packing reminds me of a dugout, especially the way pyronym loads his. I used to do it that way but now I do more of a combination of a very light straw method and then pressing and twisting the tip against my grinder screen to level the material in the tip.
But once you get it like you like it, you got it. But I still over pack sometimes. Just like a dugout batty.
Hey Rick,
In that other thread you said the heat sink was made of the same alloy as the tubing but a different manufacturer. Did you later find out it wasn't the same alloy?
Sorry to hear about your troubles. I hope all goes well.
Life is always throwing these humps in our way. But without humps, there would be no getting over. I have confidence you guys will get over the hump and be stronger for it. Good luck.
DevoTheStrange
Ia! Ia! Vapor Fthagn!
hey rick I was wondering since you are changing out the metal in your heat exchanger... are you going to offer a service for your past customers to change out their heat sink if they so choose?
momofthegoons
vapor accessory addict
I was wondering that same thing. I'm lucky if I get 3 from half a stem. Maybe the herb? 
I've also found that addiing kief will extend the amounts of hits, but haven't had much success with the MZ stem yet, mostly due to the draw issue. That really makes it hard to draw.
Thanks for all the responses to my queries. Nice to know you've got my back!
I've also found that addiing kief will extend the amounts of hits, but haven't had much success with the MZ stem yet, mostly due to the draw issue. That really makes it hard to draw.
Thanks for all the responses to my queries. Nice to know you've got my back!
pyronym
Harry Mooseknuckle
lwien I keep my zap wrapped with a sweatshirt and I wrap a sleeve around the stem. After every hit I thumb the stem because it's always so thick with vapor and I don't want to loose it. So I would think that between me vaping at a slightly higher temp and covering the stem every hit. Oh and I think some people pull the stem between every hit I leave it in so maybe the extra conduction???? I draw very slow and I spin the stem while I draw. I just went to lunch and loaded a half a stem took 6 really nice hits 3 of which were way too much and I haven't even finished with it yet I will finish it on my way home. It probably has at least 4 hits left before I grind it.
I feel like a scoop of ice cream on a hot metal sliding board.
I keep all my herb in mason jars no matter what grade is and I leave it in my car under the seat with in a few days of getting slightly moist herb it gets dryer than a nun's holy bits.
Also because I'm not grinding it im not separating out the keif so maybe that's why it hit's longer. When I grind I do get less but I've never paid attention to how much it's just easier in a car to punch it than suck it. I said suck it. hehehe
I feel like a scoop of ice cream on a hot metal sliding board.
I keep all my herb in mason jars no matter what grade is and I leave it in my car under the seat with in a few days of getting slightly moist herb it gets dryer than a nun's holy bits.
Also because I'm not grinding it im not separating out the keif so maybe that's why it hit's longer. When I grind I do get less but I've never paid attention to how much it's just easier in a car to punch it than suck it. I said suck it. hehehe
Rick
Zapman
Devo
Glad you asked that question. I have had a couple emails asking the same question. Being the great businessman that I am, I never even thought about this happening as a result of changing the heatsink. That's how stupid I can be.
My main problem currently is I cannot get the old heatport out without ruining the wood. The top hole shrinks considerably as soon as the heat is turned on. After some time it is too small to get the heatport out through the top as it has to come out. So I have to rebore the top hole but the old heatport is right in the middle which will not let me bore the hole. I did have an idea with a forstner bit that I grind the middle out but that was not satisfactory the first time I tried, long ago. Right now I am trying to catch up on orders that got delayed by about three days because of the redesign and lots of time on the phone. I am using over the counter brass washers currently that make me take some extra stems in fabrication. I just ordered 1000 made exactly to my spec which will speed up the fabrication and increase my heat mass which up the heat a tad. If they work, 10 times that are on the way as I use right at 20 washers per unit.
I have to get some ideas on how to proceed with your question and am open to suggestions. One thing I thought about is to replace the entire unit at a super discount but no decisions yet as I do not want to start a landslide here but I also have to realize a few folks are interested in some option.
Edit for:
Just had a long talk with my oldest son who is very handy at much stuff. McGyver type guy. We have an idea that may work on removing the old heatport while saving the wood. I will keep us updated on that subject but for the next couple days I have to get caught up so no experimenting. Will not be long though. Even though this was a simple change, I am back to a new process fabricating the heatport assembly which takes way longer than the routine I have done for years.
Glad you asked that question. I have had a couple emails asking the same question. Being the great businessman that I am, I never even thought about this happening as a result of changing the heatsink. That's how stupid I can be.
My main problem currently is I cannot get the old heatport out without ruining the wood. The top hole shrinks considerably as soon as the heat is turned on. After some time it is too small to get the heatport out through the top as it has to come out. So I have to rebore the top hole but the old heatport is right in the middle which will not let me bore the hole. I did have an idea with a forstner bit that I grind the middle out but that was not satisfactory the first time I tried, long ago. Right now I am trying to catch up on orders that got delayed by about three days because of the redesign and lots of time on the phone. I am using over the counter brass washers currently that make me take some extra stems in fabrication. I just ordered 1000 made exactly to my spec which will speed up the fabrication and increase my heat mass which up the heat a tad. If they work, 10 times that are on the way as I use right at 20 washers per unit.
I have to get some ideas on how to proceed with your question and am open to suggestions. One thing I thought about is to replace the entire unit at a super discount but no decisions yet as I do not want to start a landslide here but I also have to realize a few folks are interested in some option.
Edit for:
Just had a long talk with my oldest son who is very handy at much stuff. McGyver type guy. We have an idea that may work on removing the old heatport while saving the wood. I will keep us updated on that subject but for the next couple days I have to get caught up so no experimenting. Will not be long though. Even though this was a simple change, I am back to a new process fabricating the heatport assembly which takes way longer than the routine I have done for years.
IAmKrazy2
Darth Vapor
Thanks Rick, can't say the thought didn't cross my mind. Didn't realize the wood would need to be ruine
d though.
A solution is tough, and as much as a new zap at a discounted rate sounds awesome, i really like the one i have now. It's a great looking unit. But, guess i wouldn't be apposed to a new one at a great rate, and my current one could be on permanent aroma therapy duty. Thanks for the thoughts.
d though. A solution is tough, and as much as a new zap at a discounted rate sounds awesome, i really like the one i have now. It's a great looking unit. But, guess i wouldn't be apposed to a new one at a great rate, and my current one could be on permanent aroma therapy duty. Thanks for the thoughts.
You can try just wrapping some cloth or a thick sock or two around it at first to see if that helps.momofthegoons said:I'm still practicing away and have a question for those of you who have had your MZ for a while. I've read that the MZ runs hotter after it's been "conditioned" and run a while. My ABV is quite green still and I'm considering buying the 13.5v from Rick to help speed things up a bit. For those of you who have used a koozie, has that helped significantly? I don't like the looks of it, but am a little leery of upping the voltage.
Also, do you find that if your grind is too fine that you have a hard time drawing? I'm struggling a bit trying to get the right grind. I might need to change grinders for this as mine grinds quite fine.
Ah, the learning curve...... Wouldn't it be nice if all learning curves were this much fun?
And something that all log vape owners can probably relate to; I just love putting on that Zapolish! Get a little on your finger, smear it around, lovingly stroking that wood......
Also I assume you are leaving it on 24hrs/day, right? (I wouldn't leave it wrapped with a sock or koozie 24/hr day, personally; I think just a few hours a day and an hour or so before you use it - again, also without the diffuser on, should increase the temp enough for a unit that isn't broken in yet.
Make SURE to take the oil diffuser out at least an hour before using it.
I'd recommend leaving the diffuser out of it at least half the time, until it gets broken in. That should make it break in faster.
Mine took about a month to get broken in. Still, I need to have the diffuser out for awhile before I use it.
Grind is relative, it depends on the strain. Yes, if you pack too tight it can be a very eye-popping experience. Try puffing like a cigar, several hard pulls in a row and exhale until you see vapor. Then take a couple puffs more and then a longer puff and see what you got. I blow my vapor across a bright light to see how much I got, clearly.
Once you get it broken in and have more of a "feel" for it, you'll get good hits almost all the time. It does depend on the mj you're using, too, to some degree.
Since as far as I know, no one ever proved that any lead can enter one's lungs through inhalation of the MZ, I don't think it's *necessary* to replace the heat sink or buy a new unit. On the other hand, I do think it's great that the new Zaps are RoHS compliant.Rick said:
Since changing the heat sink or getting a new Zap is a "luxury" not a necessity I don't think it is necessary for Rick to eat the cost of replacing or providing new Zaps. Some kind of discount might be nice for those who do want to get the new RoHS compliant version.
momofthegoons
vapor accessory addict
Am I understanding this right Rick, will your unit run hotter now than before?
And as far as changing out the unit, I would never risk ruining mine. She's way too special.
@pyronym - It's amazing that wrapping your Zap, and using that method of stem pack works so well for you. I'm going to give it a try. I do collect kief, as a rule. But rules are made to be broken. And summer is coming. I've noticed the kief doesn't collect as well in humid weather, so what the heck? Why not try something new? Thanks for the tip.
@Moe - thanks to you also. No, I don't leave my diffuser cup in. I do leave it plugged in 24/7. But this little gal is a newborn; only about a week old. I know she'll "mature" in time. And hopefully, so will my technique.
Howie Feltersnatch
Scalawag
Agree completely. I think it is great that the new ones will satisfy the "non-risk takers" but I hardly think Rick needs to absorb even part of the cost of replacement.MoeOnTheMoon said:
Retrofitting, if possible is a great option. Offering that service at a reasonable rate would be a nice alternative but not necessary to me. I don't believe that the lead can escape from the brass any more than I believe that cell phones cause dain bramage!
I agree, except for this: I DO think cell phones may cause brain damage! Certainly some studies indicate they may cause it for children. But that's another thread altogether, in another forum!Howie Feltersnatch said:Agree completely. I think it is great that the new ones will satisfy the "non-risk takers" but I hardly think Rick needs to absorb even part of the cost of replacement.MoeOnTheMoon said:
Retrofitting, if possible is a great option. Offering that service at a reasonable rate would be a nice alternative but not necessary to me. I don't believe that the lead can escape from the brass any more than I believe that cell phones cause dain bramage!
The sock around the MZ really makes a big difference. Even so, mine took about a month to get really perfect. But I did not leave the sock on it all the time, only a few hours a day. Not sure if it's a good idea to leave a sockoozie or regular koozie on it 24/7. Anyone?momofthegoons said:@Moe - thanks to you also. No, I don't leave my diffuser cup in. I do leave it plugged in 24/7. But this little gal is a newborn; only about a week old. I know she'll "mature" in time. And hopefully, so will my technique.
Wow I gotta say I got the 13.5v power supply from Rick and have found what I have been missing, I am a hard charger kinda guy. I don't do anything half ass, I like full body hits that I can feel deep down inside, and if you ain't chokin you ain't token. I felt like I had to work harder to get a solid charge from the 12v, that ain't cool, but with the 13.5 I get those heavy hitters with much less work.
Work smarter, not harder!
I thought I was missing something, but know I have found it with the 13.5.
Thanks Rick for your info, support, advise, cooperation, and most of all your friendship! You're the man!
Work smarter, not harder!
I thought I was missing something, but know I have found it with the 13.5.
Thanks Rick for your info, support, advise, cooperation, and most of all your friendship! You're the man!