Arizer Solo

[CarolKing]

I think using a bubbler is better than a water tube like the FBomb or the Pnp WT. Theres no worry when the Solo is riding on top.

 

[OF]

I've tried a couple of PWT clones and they both leaked.

Really? Leaked where? Are you sure they weren't over filled?

TIA

Needless to say I've never had this problem and I've bought clones for several friends. No guaranty it's the same clones of course (I got mine mostly from DHGate.

I also have a 'real' F-Bomb and a PWT. They will leak if overfilled as well, like the clones. And of course none of them have upper traps so upending them (or laying them on their side) is going to leak.

As the Lady suggests, a desktop bubbler while less handy is more stable and less likely to leak.

OF

 

[h3rbalist]

Hi Solo owners,

I wish to treat my Mum to an upgrade for her Solo.

I'm thinking water attachment, the f-bomb or the cheap Chinese version? But I see there are a world of accessories for the Solo.

My Mum absolutely adores her Solo (otherwise I'd consider an Air) so I would love to find her something to further her experience with it.

What do you guys think?

 

[kilrtjat]

Hello,
my Solo unfortunately damaged at the bottom. With this issue I'm not the only one. I attempt to prepare and produce "Indestructible Solo". This is the first prototype. That worked, and after a slight modification of plastics, part fits perfectly. Maybe in time I will try to create a metal front panel. Should the interest of anyone else? Either let it make or provides drawings for production.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fs0yem0ylwo1gus/03.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/miutchf5yx69edj/02.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kfjo021hjv2ec89/01.JPG?dl=0


tajtrlik

 

[Quetzalcoatl]

Hello,
my Solo unfortunately damaged at the bottom. With this issue I'm not the only one. I attempt to prepare and produce "Indestructible Solo". This is the first prototype. That worked, and after a slight modification of plastics, part fits perfectly. Maybe in time I will try to create a metal front panel. Should the interest of anyone else? Either let it make or provides drawings for production.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fs0yem0ylwo1gus/03.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/miutchf5yx69edj/02.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kfjo021hjv2ec89/01.JPG?dl=0


tajtrlik

Looks great! Is that the original Solo cable? I noticed the screws are not sitting flush with the metal body. I forget what it's called, but you use a slightly oversized bit and drill down a little bit but not through, so that when you go in with the regular size bit and drill through and add the screws, they sit flush or "under" the plate. That way when you set it down upright, the whole bottom of the metal is making contact with the table instead of just the four sharp screws jutting out. Perhaps for a version 2? Might also be able to do that with the charging port to get the original cable to go through if you're not using it. Honestly the most elegant bottom fix I've seen. Might look even cooler on a silver Solo

 

[Stu]

I forget what it's called

I believe that's called a countersink. I remember my dad always saying it, so it's probably true.

 

[little maggie]

Hi Solo owners,

I wish to treat my Mum to an upgrade for her Solo.

I'm thinking water attachment, the f-bomb or the cheap Chinese version? But I see there are a world of accessories for the Solo.

My Mum absolutely adores her Solo (otherwise I'd consider an Air) so I would love to find her something to further her experience with it.

What do you guys think?

I'd still recommend the orbiter. Unless it's a surprise, why not show your mom a few of the water attachments like f-bomb, orbiter, bubbler and see what she likes.

 

[OF]

I believe that's called a countersink. I remember my dad always saying it, so it's probably true.

Exactly right, countersinks come in two standard angles and are what you use for flat head screws. You can also 'counterbore' (make a short flat bottomed (rather than slanted) hole and then use a normal screw with a head short enough to not stick up.

Not to be confused with 'counter sink' a device deployed by damaged boats and their occupants trying to stay afloat until help arrives.......

OF

 

[VapeHeadz]

@kilrtjat That looks awesome! My solo is chipped at the bottom corner too.

 

[kilrtjat]

Looks great! Is that the original Solo cable? I noticed the screws are not sitting flush with the metal body. I forget what it's called, but you use a slightly oversized bit and drill down a little bit but not through, so that when you go in with the regular size bit and drill through and add the screws, they sit flush or "under" the plate. That way when you set it down upright, the whole bottom of the metal is making contact with the table instead of just the four sharp screws jutting out. Perhaps for a version 2? Might also be able to do that with the charging port to get the original cable to go through if you're not using it. Honestly the most elegant bottom fix I've seen. Might look even cooler on a silver Solo

Yes I know the tool :-) I have to do in the workshop. This was the first test. Yes cable original charger. There's a hole for the connector.

 

[kilrtjat]

@kilrtjat That looks awesome! My solo is chipped at the bottom corner too.

Yes mine was also cracked. I was treated with the device carefully. I contacted the producer and was not willing to give me the part. This approach me a little angry. That's why I invented this.


PS: sorry for my English. I speak with the help of my little knowledge and gogle translator :-)

 

[Quetzalcoatl]

Yes I know the tool :-) I have to do in the workshop. This was the first test. Yes cable original charger. There's a hole for the connector.

Yeah I saw there was a hole for the connector, my question/confusion was if the actual connector was long enough to fit, given that the metal part looks thicker than the plastic part it replaced. Your English is also understandable, don't worry too much about it

 

[CarolKing]

This is the @Pipes bottom for the Solo. No taking the bottom off the unit. I wasn't interested in unscrewing the bottom, with those little tiny screws. Just cover with a new one. I like charging my Solo standing up. This stand allows you to do that. Thanks @Pipes. It has a soft bottom that won't scratch your wooden tables. I should have brushed the ABV off.

 

[OF]

Yeah I saw there was a hole for the connector, my question/confusion was if the actual connector was long enough to fit, given that the metal part looks thicker than the plastic part it replaced

I think it's a cover plate over the original plastic plate. The Solo is now several mm taller? You can see the plastic bottom in the side view. The hole in the Al plate is big enough for the body of the connector by the looks of it.

Remember the bottom is the same piece as the main frame (heater screws to the far end) and front panel. It also carries the serial number, which raise some issues with replacements.

OF

 

[kilrtjat]

I think it's a cover plate over the original plastic plate. The Solo is now several mm taller? You can see the plastic bottom in the side view. The hole in the Al plate is big enough for the body of the connector by the looks of it.

Remember the bottom is the same piece as the main frame (heater screws to the far end) and front panel. It also carries the serial number, which raise some issues with replacements.

OF

Nooo, the original plastic base can be removed and there my "invention". The connector is long enough. Charging is without problems ..

 

[OF]

Nooo, the original plastic base can be removed and there my "invention". The connector is long enough. Charging is without problems ..

Indeed? The (several) I have opened up are not. Are you sure your unit is genuine? Here's what mine look like on 'the inside" (where the battery is):

As I hope you can see (you might have to blow it up some), the base plate is the same piece the PCB screws into and the battery cover clips onto and if you look all the way to the right you'll see it has the four bosses that the over screws into.

The other side:

I hope clearly shows the bottom plate and front panel are the same injection molded part? There is no seam showing when it's assembled.

I have to admit I've never stripped the parts off to bare plastic, but it sure looks like one piece to me. What would be holding this loose base plate on the sub assembly above? It's pretty much a single piece.....

TIA

OF

 

[kilrtjat]

Hello,
It's simple. On the photo you can see how it works. There now I do not have a battery, but normally there fits. Just delicate saw a bit of skill. But there is a reserve for it to be a bit awkward.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fhul8thooy9tby9/04.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/es6blqlrl6mrbbh/05.JPG?dl=0

I wonder, have produced the second part of a whole piece would consist of two ... my bottom and the rest. But it is quite complicated, and the price would not be the lowest.

I've had feedback that should be of interest to anyone. Not possible to produce it by one. Only that it will be more interested.
Cost estimate cca 25$ + postage. But I say ... one can not be produced because of the cost


tajtrlik

 

[OF]

On the photo you can see how it works.

Just delicate saw a bit of skill.

Ah, so! You sawed the bottom plate off? That makes sense now, but not something the average guy is likely to want to do.

And, since the serial number is on the part you sawed off the warranty is probably toast (where a simple cover should not cause problems). More importantly while serial numbers are voluntary in all but a few cases (like firearms, autos and so on), removing one (even from something you otherwise legally own) is a crime. Seriously. It automatically becomes contraband and is assumed stolen. In most states it becomes illegal to sell or offer for sale and if found in possession by the cops they're gonna take it if then know the number is removed.

While it's a fun idea, and clearly useful, I tend to shy away from it for those two reasons (requires cutting up your Solo and makes it contraband). A cover, as others have done, dose not have these drawbacks.

Thanks for setting the record straight, like I said the part you first left out (bottom cover cut off) had me confused for sure. To the original question (how does the plug still reach......he assumed it was a cover as well?) I agree that if the replacement is the same thickness and it's OK to connect the case to charger minus (which it evidently is, although I haven't tested that) the original connector should be fine.

Thanks again, it can get confusing sometimes.

OF

 

[kilrtjat]

Oh yes. The serial number is the last thing I was interested. I was out of warranty. In our country it would be the last thing the police solved. But your idea is interesting. But for me it is important to get my device to work properly. Cut off the bottom of the course, I had. For the average guy's problem this cut? What was your region? (joke)

Therefore I withdraw my offer. I wanted to go to the US to get me arrested at the airport as criminals :-)

 

[OF]

Oh yes. The serial number is the last thing I was interested. For the average guy's problem this cut? What was your region? (joke)

Therefore I withdraw my offer. I wanted to go to the US to get me arrested at the airport as criminals :-)

It's a State issue, not Federal, since the background crime is theft. I'm in California but understand basically all the states have similar rules. Here, the cops aren't likely to know the number was ever there, or care, but they also have a history of using petty crimes if they don't like you/what you're doing and can't get you otherwise. That's the biggest risk probably. Some my be fine with it (perhaps even most?) but in all fairness you should include the concern so it's a better informed choice? I agree, we don't want to see anyone getting busted for such an oversight.

Otherwise, with some suitable advice to be sure the S/N somehow stays attached to the unit I think it's a great product. Although I do suspect only a small fraction of the owners would go out and buy a saw.......

If you change it to a simple cover, better still with a window for the S/N, that screws on with no modifications I think you've got a winner.

OF

 

[kilrtjat]

Hello,
I received notice that I do not have anything to offer, though I do not have a merchant account. So there is nothing else for not offering, until I create a business account.

tajtrlik

 

[pakalolo]

Hello,
I received notice that I do not have anything to offer, though I do not have a merchant account. So there is nothing else for not offering, until I create a business account.

tajtrlik

To clarify: our rules require that a manufacturer register with vtac and follow stricter rules than those for regular members. Your notification was a precaution in case you decided to proceed with offering these for sale. In any case, you should stop making public posts about them because they could be interpreted as advertising. Anyone who has more questions can contact you through a PM.

 

[blackstone]

When I saw one of these secondhand about 2 hours drive away, I just knew I had to join the legions of FC members who have sucked on the shiny pipe!
I might have done better buying new as these have come down I think, but that could've turned into an import duty nightmare too, maybe next time.
So it came with both standard stems, and I think the bowls are a bit too big for very regular use, fine for occasional, for me.
Looking into ways of reducing bowl size on here, I eventually splashed out on a PVHES straight shorty turbo, holy hell the things are great.
It got me and all my pals coughing mostly on settings 5-7, and I'd say some of those (combusting) pals were stunned at the strength of the vapor. Great design, but unfortunately only about two months in I dropped the stem from its protective tube on to a tiled floor while singing a little song and preparing to get high, and it is no more.

Do PV offer ANY loyalty scheme, or a system where they feel a little sorry for you if you smash a stem by mistake?!

Funnily enough I was just thinking I should buy another, possibly non-turbo model as that is what I originally wanted but they were out of stock and I didn't know that PV update their stock quite regularly.
I initially wasn't fond of the thicker turbo stem feel in the lips, but I think I grew to like it.
The other things I liked about the turbo stem are those hard hitting tasty hits, and it seems quite minimal and hence, easy to clean inside.
So now I dont know if the non-turbo shorty would even do the job anymore? or are they just as good/potent?
Are those PVHES Vortex stems worth the extra few dollars?
I need to read more about the wooden stems, they're pretty unbreakable compared to glass? Hard to clean? You dont soak these in alcohol, right?
And are they only available in a standard large bowl size?

I think if someone (or Arizer) made shorty standard stems cheaply, that would suit me. Or if I can find a way to knock 3 or 4 mm from the bowl of a standard stem!
I'm back using the standard stems now and I have the salvaged custom PVHES screen levitating halfway up the bowl, that's working out ok-ish, but could fall out and get lost easily.
I'm open to any suggestions!

I was also toying with the idea of having a custom stem tooled locally from stainless , but this must be a bad idea as I've never seen one!
Perhaps the mouthpiece end would quickly reach the same temp as the bowl ha ha!

This being a mid priced secondhand vape is great in that I can be quite careless with it and really make the most of that build quality and reliability.
It was unmarked when I bought it but now has a few dents from falling out of my pocket to the ground,
and the bottom edges are getting chipped as discussed already in this thread

Also I'm amazed how people use it only as low as setting 4.
Being a total noob, I used to do 4 or 5, then always ramp to 7.
Then I started just starting on 6, and leaving it on 6,
so I can see how gradually I could lower my temp.
Minimum recommended temp for shorty turbo was 5 and for the Vortex stems I think it's 6 or 7!

For research sake I will try two small bowls on setting 4 now, even though I'm already smashed, it's late here, and I have to be up early!
(I have one of the bowls finished while reading over my post, and yes, it does work blindingly well on setting 4 too it seems! All the way to the 10 minute mark!)
Goodnight FC!

 

[OF]

I think if someone (or Arizer) made shorty standard stems cheaply, that would suit me. Or if I can find a way to knock 3 or 4 mm from the bowl of a standard stem!

Glad you got on board. Solo's good gear for sure.

You might try the screens suggested by our own Sinclue a while back (for the Air, but same bowls.....):
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-arizer-air.16415/page-96#post-730350

They look like this in action:

They not only reduce the load size but control fouling much better, you can go longer between cleanings since the screen doesn't foul as fast as the holes alone do.

BTW, you might want to order an Air stem or two (like the photo above) as they will fit Solo, are shorter and mate up directly with 14mm connectors on Water Tools. Ten bucks here.

OF

 

[Quetzalcoatl]

When I saw one of these secondhand about 2 hours drive away, I just knew I had to join the legions of FC members who have sucked on the shiny pipe!
I might have done better buying new as these have come down I think, but that could've turned into an import duty nightmare too, maybe next time.
So it came with both standard stems, and I think the bowls are a bit too big for very regular use, fine for occasional, for me.
Looking into ways of reducing bowl size on here, I eventually splashed out on a PVHES straight shorty turbo, holy hell the things are great.
It got me and all my pals coughing mostly on settings 5-7, and I'd say some of those (combusting) pals were stunned at the strength of the vapor. Great design, but unfortunately only about two months in I dropped the stem from its protective tube on to a tiled floor while singing a little song and preparing to get high, and it is no more.

Do PV offer ANY loyalty scheme, or a system where they feel a little sorry for you if you smash a stem by mistake?!

Funnily enough I was just thinking I should buy another, possibly non-turbo model as that is what I originally wanted but they were out of stock and I didn't know that PV update their stock quite regularly.
I initially wasn't fond of the thicker turbo stem feel in the lips, but I think I grew to like it.
The other things I liked about the turbo stem are those hard hitting tasty hits, and it seems quite minimal and hence, easy to clean inside.
So now I dont know if the non-turbo shorty would even do the job anymore? or are they just as good/potent?
Are those PVHES Vortex stems worth the extra few dollars?
I need to read more about the wooden stems, they're pretty unbreakable compared to glass? Hard to clean? You dont soak these in alcohol, right?
And are they only available in a standard large bowl size?

I think if someone (or Arizer) made shorty standard stems cheaply, that would suit me. Or if I can find a way to knock 3 or 4 mm from the bowl of a standard stem!
I'm back using the standard stems now and I have the salvaged custom PVHES screen levitating halfway up the bowl, that's working out ok-ish, but could fall out and get lost easily.
I'm open to any suggestions!

I was also toying with the idea of having a custom stem tooled locally from stainless , but this must be a bad idea as I've never seen one!
Perhaps the mouthpiece end would quickly reach the same temp as the bowl ha ha!

This being a mid priced secondhand vape is great in that I can be quite careless with it and really make the most of that build quality and reliability.
It was unmarked when I bought it but now has a few dents from falling out of my pocket to the ground,
and the bottom edges are getting chipped as discussed already in this thread

Also I'm amazed how people use it only as low as setting 4.
Being a total noob, I used to do 4 or 5, then always ramp to 7.
Then I started just starting on 6, and leaving it on 6,
so I can see how gradually I could lower my temp.
Minimum recommended temp for shorty turbo was 5 and for the Vortex stems I think it's 6 or 7!

For research sake I will try two small bowls on setting 4 now, even though I'm already smashed, it's late here, and I have to be up early!
(I have one of the bowls finished while reading over my post, and yes, it does work blindingly well on setting 4 too it seems! All the way to the 10 minute mark!)
Goodnight FC!

Level 4?? When I vape dry I start at level 2, the lowest applicable level!! The taste is divine!