The Arizer Air

Joining you all today as my Air is out for delivery! POW!

EDIT: The eagle (Air) has landed!

EDIT (again): Props to Agracan for such a sweet deal, I received two of the longer plastic tip mouthpieces as well as a 1/2 size Solo stem which is sweet! Also ofcourse received the extra free battery!

Air is on the charger! Nice to Arizer to have upped the game with their packaging, my previous airs were just in plain box.

Thinking I may need the shorter plastic tip stem! What is "supposed" to be "stock" anyway?

biohacker said:

Joining you all today as my Air is out for delivery! POW!

EDIT: The eagle (Air) has landed!

EDIT (again): Props to Agracan for such a sweet deal, I received two of the longer plastic tip mouthpieces as well as a 1/2 size Solo stem which is sweet! Also ofcourse received the extra free battery!

Air is on the charger! Nice to Arizer to have upped the game with their packaging, my previous airs were just in plain box.

Thinking I may need the shorter plastic tip stem! What is "supposed" to be "stock" anyway?

Click to expand...

STOCK
Plastic tip (my personal fave), and short sraight are in box. They are quite different.

Bravesst said:

STOCK
Plastic tip (my personal fave), and short sraight are in box. They are quite different.

Click to expand...

Yep. The very first ones came with two different length plastic tipped stems and a straight Solo stem. Kinda doesn't fit with the idea Solo and Air stems don't fit Air. The shorter stem came several weeks later. My guess is they got to release and decided they needed an 'all glass stem' to keep the all glass vapor path thing a feature for folks so they included what they had (Solo stems). There wasn't a spot in the package for it, the stem was stuffed in the case instead.

I too mostly use the plastic tipped ones and can't detect adverse taste because if it.

OF

I think I have only used the shorter glass stem twice. Cleaned it, put it in the stand, and hasn't been touched in months. The plastic tipped work great but I mostly find myself using the gong/hydrotube combo.

Received and unboxed my Air today. Got it on the charger now while I eagerly wait to leave the office and use it.

As I'm sitting here and looking at it tho, I really can't quite wrap my head around the design, as far as these "vents" around the top section of it go. What is the purpose of this? Shouldn't a vape be designed to retain heat and not vent it off? People have mentioned the silicone sleeve helping with heat retention a bit possibly, which seems like it would be a good thing, yet other people have expressed concerns over it covering the vents and mentioned cutting the sleeve to accommodate them?

Also, does the Air use the same battery as the ones in the solo? If so, has anyone tried salvaging batteries from a solo to use in the air? How about the charger? I didnt notice if the size is different on the connection really, but it would be nice to have a spare charger to leave at my gfs or something.

steiner666 said:

As I'm sitting here and looking at it tho, I really can't quite wrap my head around the design, as far as these "vents" around the top section of it go. What is the purpose of this? Shouldn't a vape be designed to retain heat and not vent it off?

Also, does the Air use the same battery as the ones in the solo?

How about the charger? I didnt notice if the size is different on the connection really, but it would be nice to have a spare charger to leave at my gfs or something.

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The vents are, I think, proper design. They compensate for the lack of metal to conduct away the heat that 'leaks through' the oven body. Heat management is a complex thing sometimes, calling for serious use of 'heat flow' (thermodynamics). Raising the temperature by blocking the vents is probably not going to be fatal, at least right away, but heat is an enemy of both battery and electronics.

No, while they share the same chemistry, the two batteries are very different and not interchangeable (Solo uses two right off, welded in). It looks like this with the cover cut away:


Under the tape are the protection circuits and over temperature protection, which are built into the Air PCB.

The chargers are different, one is 5 Volts, the other 12. Very important. Although they share the same diameter plug, the Air's is longer. Should you push too hard on the Solo cable or otherwise overcome the tiny difference in length it will destroy the Air, at least the charging part. Keep the chargers separated, don't let 'accidents' happen. IMO they should have used a different size connector, but they didn't ask my advice.......so second best is my advice to be very careful?

OF

I had put my silicone wrap on the other day when it was cold and my unit performed pretty good. I left the wrap on and everything seemed normal except that it started to seem like everything was beat quicker (no vapor at all) after only maybe 2 sessions on blue or white. I was starting to wonder if I had let my stuff get too dry or something but can't easily get anything right now. I took off the wrap just a minute ago and am getting nice vapor for session 3 on white (one blue, switched to white halfway through second session)
Anyone else have something similar when they use the wrap?
Such a shame the wrap would save the day so well moment and then crap on my sidewalk the next...

hey guys, got a question..

i recently burned/melted plastic inside corner chamber (dont ask as i was high stupid mistake..) i tried to clean it off with alcohol iso, but it doesnt look clean at all unless i should use more.. is there anything i can do to remove it at all? im a bit worried of vaping knowing its still has plastic inside the chamber

Ghosts said:

i recently burned/melted plastic inside corner chamber (dont ask as i was high stupid mistake..) i tried to clean it off with alcohol iso, but it doesnt look clean at all unless i should use more.. is there anything i can do to remove it at all? im a bit worried of vaping knowing its still has plastic inside the chamber

Click to expand...

ISO won't 'cut' most plastics, that is it's not a solvent for them, like it does with vaping residues (which it will dissolve.....). Depending on what plastic you melted, there may be a solvent that will work if carefully done (stuff like MEK, Toluene, Acetone, Fingernail polish remover, and so on). Some nastier than others.

What plastic did you melt on?

I suggest you first try to remove it mechanically. Starting with "Magic Eraser".

Good luck.

OF

OF said:

ISO won't 'cut' most plastics, that is it's not a solvent for them, like it does with vaping residues (which it will dissolve.....). Depending on what plastic you melted, there may be a solvent that will work if carefully done (stuff like MEK, Toluene, Acetone, Fingernail polish remover, and so on). Some nastier than others.

What plastic did you melt on?

I suggest you first try to remove it mechanically. Starting with "Magic Eraser".

Good luck.

OF

Click to expand...

thank you for the replay, it was a BIC pen lid i burned the pointy end. so theres no point using iso to clean it? :/.. really miss using my air

EDIT: ive used nail polish and ISO after and it seems to be very clean from before, i dont know if i should use it right away or not. only thing i can smell out of it inside is the orange flaver iso i used (its a bong cleaner)

Ghosts said:

thank you for the replay, it was a BIC pen lid i burned the pointy end. so theres no point using iso to clean it? :/.. really miss using my air

Click to expand...

Thanks.

No chance on ISO, try it on the cap and see. Won't even soften it. You need a solvent for that plastic. And a steady hand to confine it exclusively to the bo-bo since it will also attack other plastics it can get to. If I were against it I'd use a pipette or maybe a q-tip to moisten the plastic only for long enough to get it soft then wipe with steel wool (000 or 0000), being careful to not spread it down the holes or into the gap at the top of the cup.

Again, fingernail polish remover is probably the easiest to get of the serious solvents to try (It's pretty mild, really). The cap is probably a styrene alloy, Acetone would probably cut it?

Again, first I'd go with Magic Eraser which I think might solve it with less trouble and risk.

Good luck.

OF

Edit: Another idea comes up. Since we know the Air will melt the plastic in question, how about heating it up to soften it? You might be able to scrape it away with wood or bamboo, even spreading it into a thin film might help since the plastic will expand and contract differently than the cup. Putting it in the freezer for a while might make it chip off if it's thin enough?

OF

OF said:

Thanks.

No chance on ISO, try it on the cap and see. Won't even soften it. You need a solvent for that plastic. And a steady hand to confine it exclusively to the bo-bo since it will also attack other plastics it can get to. If I were against it I'd use a pipette or maybe a q-tip to moisten the plastic only for long enough to get it soft then wipe with steel wool (000 or 0000), being careful to not spread it down the holes or into the gap at the top of the cup.

Again, fingernail polish remover is probably the easiest to get of the serious solvents to try (It's pretty mild, really). The cap is probably a styrene alloy, Acetone would probably cut it?

Again, first I'd go with Magic Eraser which I think might solve it with less trouble and risk.

Good luck.

OF

Edit: Another idea comes up. Since we know the Air will melt the plastic in question, how about heating it up to soften it? You might be able to scrape it away with wood or bamboo, even spreading it into a thin film might help since the plastic will expand and contract differently than the cup. Putting it in the freezer for a while might make it chip off if it's thin enough?

OF

Click to expand...

EDIT: ive used nail polish and ISO after and it seems to be very clean from before, i dont know if i should use it right away or not. only thing i can smell out of it inside is the orange flaver iso i used (its a bong cleaner)

Ghosts said:

EDIT: ive used nail polish and ISO after and it seems to be very clean from before, i dont know if i should use it right away or not. only thing i can smell out of it inside is the orange flaver iso i used (its a bong cleaner)

Click to expand...

Quoting my PM a moment ago:

If you got all the plastic all the solvent smell should evaporate off. Too bad you used 'flavored' ISO in a way. I suggest cranking it up and letting it cook?

OF

Broke both my plastic tip stems .. been using an old solo stem and that stem is much better. The holes in it are huge compared to the air. Any recommendations on a good new stem? How is the mini all glass one that some later air adopters received with theirs?

SiDankies said:

Broke both my plastic tip stems .. been using an old solo stem and that stem is much better. The holes in it are huge compared to the air. Any recommendations on a good new stem? How is the mini all glass one that some later air adopters received with theirs?

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Bummer. I guess I rank the short all glass at the bottom use wise. I like the plastic topped ones for Air, they seem 'natural' given it's compact nature. When it comes to glass I like the full size Solo version more, I assume you were an early buyer and got a straight Solo stem instead of the new shorter one?

In your spot I'd be buying a couple more Air stems. I'm not there, I have several spares (I like keeping a few loaded and capped) and thus far haven't broken one (knocking this here wooden chair with the other hand.....).

Ed's excellent stems are also worth considering as well, IMO.

OF

First post on FC, long time lurker. love the community you guys have cultivated here.

Recently recieved my arizer air to replace my now lost MFLB, and I am a huge fan. portability and discretion are top for me and the Air satisfies in both. Other than the battery life, non USB 2.0, and charge time (which I have seen immensely covered here) its a total winner.

That being said, I fear i may have screwed up my unit.

Low on supply yesterday, was vaping Kief in my air, when i realized that it had actually fallen out of the glass stem and instead of evenly cooking, it was smoldering on the top surface. in my panic to prevent combustion in the unit, i used my car key to shuffle around the kief for another hit and then disposed. since then I have noticed that on the lowest settings of blue and white, my Air thoroughly and quickly toasts medicine that previously lasted me the full 10 minutes on yellow (producing large clouds the whole time, whereas now after 2-3 minutes there is nothing left). Did i short something by using metal to shuffle the kief around? Am i just being paranoid? is this something I should use my warranty on?

Thanks for any replies, very happy to finally be a part of the FC community.

@eunosRoadster Welcome to the forum. So glad you were able to find us.

Maybe it is your cannabis? Try different strains if you are able. If I have dry cannabis I need to turn down the temperature. Good luck with that, I hope your unit is OK. There have been very few faulty units, but you never know. If it is faulty get a hold of the vendor that sold you the vaporizer.

eunosRoadster said:

Did i short something by using metal to shuffle the kief around? Am i just being paranoid? is this something I should use my warranty on?

Thanks for any replies, very happy to finally be a part of the FC community.

Click to expand...

Welcome to the Forum! I see you've figured us out already, lots of good folks with sound advice to offer.

To the case in point, no you cannot 'short' anything that way. All the electricity is deeper inside. And well protected. While you might have managed to get some kief down the holes (where it will smell at worst) I can't see any other cause for concern.

I'd look to differences in herb.......

OF

CarolKing said:

@eunosRoadster Welcome to the forum. So glad you were able to find us.

Maybe it is your cannabis? Try different strains if you are able. If I have dry cannabis I need to turn down the temperature. Good luck with that, I hope your unit is OK. There have been very few faulty units, but you never know. If it is faulty get a hold of the vendor that sold you the vaporizer.

Click to expand...

OF said:

Welcome to the Forum! I see you've figured us out already, lots of good folks with sound advice to offer.

To the case in point, no you cannot 'short' anything that way. All the electricity is deeper inside. And well protected. While you might have managed to get some kief down the holes (where it will smell at worst) I can't see any other cause for concern.

I'd look to differences in herb.......

OF

Click to expand...

haha i read the rules, but didnt realize we could speak that freely.

Usually, weaker strains like Green Kush and Sour Diesel only last about 5 minutes on hot settings, whereas my Mango Kush (best strain i have ever tried btw, recommend you do if you can get your hands on it) easily last 10 minutes producing large clouds on high settings.

Sour D/Green K only lasts about 2-3 minutes now, with mango lasting around the 5-6 minute mark. this is all on low temps

come to think of it, i used damp qtips coated with ISO to clean the interior of my unit shortly after disposing of the aforementioned kief experience. i held the unit upside down and gently rubbed the plate's surface before letting it sit cap open for around a half hour. after which i ran a cycle on green with nothing in the unit to kill any alcohol residue. was my mistake made there?

EDIT: Sorry mods for double post, been going through my strains and timing the sessions to see if there is an issue. effects have been...dazzling.

Mod note: posts merged

eunosRoadster said:

i held the unit upside down and gently rubbed the plate's surface before letting it sit cap open for around a half hour. after which i ran a cycle on green with nothing in the unit to kill any alcohol residue. was my mistake made there?

Click to expand...

Nope, don't think that's a mistake. Lots of guys wipe it down with ISO, just don't flood it and you'll be fine.

Any chance your issue with 'useful session time' is due to increased tolerance on your part?

OF

OF said:

Nope, don't think that's a mistake. Lots of guys wipe it down with ISO, just don't flood it and you'll be fine.

Any chance your issue with 'useful session time' is due to increased tolerance on your part?

OF

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i've been good for a gram a day for quite some time, i would think i would see any changes in tolerance

on another note, i just ran another 2 passes of Mango K on Yellow setting and it seems to be functioning normally again. well check back in if there are any changes. could have been something in there that has been burned away

@eunosRoadster Glad to hear all is well with your AA. This is such a great little vaporizer with its user replaceable batteries. I ended up buying the Nitecore charger to charge up the batteries. The folks here at FC have given it the OK so I felt safe about using it. A very easy vaporizer for that first time vaporist.

I just wanted to add this here since it's a brief comparison of the Crafty and Air. Not a full in depth review but a few things I've noticed after using both devices for a while.


I recently picked up a Crafty because of all the rave reviews and wanted to give it a try. I currently own an Arizer Air as well so I use this as my baseline for comparisons.


Taste wise they're pretty close. In fact I would say the glass stems on the Air provide slightly better flavor but the difference is negligible.

Resistance wise the Crafty wins hands down. It's literally a night and day difference between the two. The Air feels like you're pulling through a straw with a super thick milkshake. This requires long, slow pulls of at least 10-12 seconds to produce thick noticeable clouds.

The Crafty on the other hand is like sipping on a soda. Easy flowing and quite deceiving because it's so smooth.

My biggest complaint is efficiency and number of hits per bowl on each unit. With the Crafty on default temp settings I can only get 5-6 pulls before the vapor starts thinning and becoming less visible. Even on boost mode I only get maybe 2 more light hits that are hardly noticeable.

With the same amount of herb in my Air on the green setting (392*F) which is about 40* higher than the Crafty's default setting I can get about 10 good, visible draws and if I boost it to red (410*F) to finish it off I manage at least another 6-7 hits before it's "cashed".

I'm seeing about double the hits from my Air with the same amount of herb. This is the only drawback with my Crafty. I've read reviews and seen several online video reviews of guys averaging 10-12 draws per bowl and it makes me wonder if my unit is defective.

Sure the strain and how finely ground the herb is makes a difference but I'm using the same material from the same grinder in both and in terms of quantity of draws the Air makes my herb last longer, more from my money so to speak

So, after first use(s) with Air last night, I can definitely say I love it It is much better to use than my aging m105 solo. The taste is, of course, great. The temp settings work well, green gave me many hits. I love how secure the stems fit, and it's so nice to use on the go, feels like using an ecig.

Question: Looking to buy a spare battery or two and charger. Suggestions? amazon links a plus (yay for Prime). I'm sure OEM is best/easiest recommendation, but I'll settle for the next best thing that is probably a fraction of the price.

steiner666 said:

So, after first use(s) with Air last night, I can definitely say I love it It is much better to use than my aging m105 solo. The taste is, of course, great. The temp settings work well, green gave me many hits. I love how secure the stems fit, and it's so nice to use on the go, feels like using an ecig.

Question: Looking to buy a spare battery or two and charger. Suggestions? amazon links a plus (yay for Prime). I'm sure OEM is best/easiest recommendation, but I'll settle for the next best thing that is probably a fraction of the price.

Click to expand...

Check this post - it's just some pages back:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-arizer-air.16415/page-278#post-862399

Maybe you find something... Your call of course goin non-OEM