Arizer Solo

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
hey all, quick cleaning/maintenance question:

is there a recommended way to soften and then remove the dark oils that build up near the base of the arizer solo's stem? i'm contemplating leaving the stem overnight in a bag of iso alcohol, would that be a solid way to go?
I'm a hacker so take it for what it's worth:

I take a drill and attach a wire brush and ream out the stainless steel bowl.
I polished both of my solos this way.
Burning keif caused the build up to begin with.
Now I use my SOLO'S for FLOWERS only.
EVERCLEAR to clean my stems.
ISO is cheaper and does the job as well.
I use other things for concentrates.
Clean stems and clean bowls are the way to bring out the best flavor of the CANNABIS.

A clean SOLO is BLISS!

HARBOR FREIGHT less than $10.00 however useful.
We are medicating correctly when are devices are clean!
 
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GSH

On a Möbius plane
Saturday afternoon, brought to you by Arizer Solo, Super Lemon Haze, JhanPixel bubbler, Pipes PA, and Kopparberg :D

cRRH6yE.jpg
 
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shredhead

Specialist
Flavor central on Saturday morning. First hit of the day:
Solo on 5 vs UD on 12.8volts first warm up of the day so she isn't runnin mega hot
So so tastey. Modded my solo bowl with a dome screen to fit the same as an UD bowl now. It rocks for at home! Anyways her it is..
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Saturday afternoon, brought to you by Arizer Solo, Super Lemon Haze, JhanPixel bubbler, Pipes PA, and Kopparberg :D
Flavor central on Saturday morning. First hit of the day:
Solo on 5 vs UD on 12.8volts first warm up of the day so she isn't runnin mega hot
So so tastey. Modded my solo bowl with a dome screen to fit the same as an UD bowl now. It rocks for at home! Anyways her it is..
Now were talking!
 

GSH

On a Möbius plane
Flavor central on Saturday morning. First hit of the day:
Solo on 5 vs UD on 12.8volts first warm up of the day so she isn't runnin mega hot
So so tastey. Modded my solo bowl with a dome screen to fit the same as an UD bowl now. It rocks for at home! Anyways her it is..
That's awesome man, I like your style :nod:
 
GSH,

dos equis

Well-Known Member
GSH send me over some SLH? Finally got PA and my setup feels close to perfect, and I'm out of fine botanicals!
 
dos equis,
  • Like
Reactions: GSH

Snappo

Caveat Emptor - "A Billion People Can Be Wrong!"
Accessory Maker
My PA/Charger power system from Tim is amazing! Overall, first initial impression is A+! Easy to use, a quality beta build! Makes no sense not to have it when you can have it all! I'm hooked!!!
  1. 2 Solos can charge together with the Y splitter!
  2. It's safe to leave the heater module in/on for an extended period of time while not in use!
  3. All parts received have a good n sturdy look and feel i.e., excellent quality, even for beta. The included extension cable as part of the system is a very handy idea. The car plug adapter is a godsend, and reaches easily with the Solo plug adapter to my back seat drivers . With the Y splitter and module, you can charge AND heat in the car!
  4. Heater module becomes only barely warm when plugged in to the Solo, then very quickly cools to neutral temp when unplugged. The heater module casing forms a very adequate insulator/heat dissipator.
  5. I LOVE IT!!!
ixfmhl.jpg
 
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marvil701

Active Member
I wasn't quick enough to pull the trigger on the Solo massdrop, which is why I'd like to get it on ebay for $127 instead (big seller who seems to be fairly trusted).

I'm from Europe though, so I need the 230V euro-plug. Does anyone know if there is an European version of the charger for the Solo?
Any Europeans here who have bought this thing from the US / Canada? Which kind of adapter did you buy?
 
marvil701,

VaporsVaporizer

On the Stoop
I wasn't quick enough to pull the trigger on the Solo massdrop, which is why I'd like to get it on ebay for $127 instead (big seller who seems to be fairly trusted).

I'm from Europe though, so I need the 230V euro-plug. Does anyone know if there is an European version of the charger for the Solo?
Any Europeans here who have bought this thing from the US / Canada? Which kind of adapter did you buy?
Can't say anything about what adapter to buy, but i got one on Ebay the other day for that price and registered it with Arizer without a problem if that helps you feel better about getting one. I love it :D
 

samirfuzzywuzzy

Well-Known Member
Pipes "CARPA" is just amazing so far!!!
the "OF" PA is also just amazing!!!!
I cant believe the difference a little bit of steady power makes in this little unit!!!!

All I can say is......Powerful shit man!
I cant really remember what I've done all day since I've gotten the PA. Its just to hazy!!!!
 

Krizzle

Hi Very high
I wasn't quick enough to pull the trigger on the Solo massdrop, which is why I'd like to get it on ebay for $127 instead (big seller who seems to be fairly trusted).

I'm from Europe though, so I need the 230V euro-plug. Does anyone know if there is an European version of the charger for the Solo?
Any Europeans here who have bought this thing from the US / Canada? Which kind of adapter did you buy?

From the UK here, my solo (ebay) came with the required adapter. So guessing yours should too. If its any help its the same adapter you need for the MFLB. Just a standard Canada/EU adapter I think. Someone else should be able to confirm 100% I am a little vaked.
 
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Krizzle,
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max

Out to lunch
I wasn't quick enough to pull the trigger on the Solo massdrop, which is why I'd like to get it on ebay for $127 instead (big seller who seems to be fairly trusted).

I'm from Europe though, so I need the 230V euro-plug. Does anyone know if there is an European version of the charger for the Solo?
Any Europeans here who have bought this thing from the US / Canada? Which kind of adapter did you buy?
I hope you're looking at the 'vapovape' seller (or another worldwide seller) and not 'myrubberneck', who claims to be an authorized seller for everything, and isn't.

notorio said:
is there any difference between the newer models M1A, M1B... M1D? Or are they all the same?
Those aren't model numbers, no matter what anyone says. They're just production runs. All Solos have been the same for quite a while now.
 

notorio

Member
Those aren't model numbers, no matter what anyone says. They're just production runs. All Solos have been the same for quite a while now.

Good to know, I guess I'll place an order right now! Thanks for your fast response.
 
notorio,

Seren

Away with the fairies
Does anyone know if there is an European version of the charger for the Solo? .....Any Europeans here who have bought this thing from the US / Canada? Which kind of adapter did you buy?

I bought mine in the UK, it came with a Canada to UK adapter plug to use with the standard Canadian charger. You can pick them up for just a couple of £'s if your unit comes without one.
 

Maine420

GROOVY GRANNY
Im getting a second solo ( i cant see waiting and saving and spending $$$ on an Ascent) as backup, but before I ordered, I emailed Arizer and asked them if they were planning an update to the most recent model in the near future, they said no, so Im gonna get me another as backup. I am overly satisfied with the Solo- and I can't go back to smoking. Just CAN'T go wrong with this! It is a workhorse!
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Gentle Friends,

The other day I posted that I'd got a new toy, able to read temperatures using a thermocouple (welded pair of wires). By way of getting to know it (and a spot of fun) I put a probe in the cup and packed it in with cotton. This is known (or strongly assumed....) to read low since the metal of the wires sucks heat out as it tries to read it so the temperature builds up to a lower level, but usually such losses are pretty uniform and predictable. This is what I reported, the bold is the Maximum number I read 'on the fly' in each step while in parenthesis is the factory temperature:

Step 2: 300 to 310F (365)

Step 4: 345 to 360F (383)
Step 5: 365 to 380F (392)
Step 6: 385 to 400F (401)
Step 7: 405 to 420F (410)

In a following post I rambled on about all the things that had to be done to get more accurate (to the load temperature) information (standardizing load, draw speed, resistance and so on as well as checking the calibration of the sensor (although it seems 'right' to me).

So, curiosity got the best of me......turning my back on science I decided to see what happened if I just tried it with what I had at hand. I poked the TC through one of the holes on a new straight stem and then 'corked' it in place with the rubber mouthpiece from an old Omicron cart with the very tip cut off (to remove the extra restriction), basically a soft rubber stopper with a 3/6 or so inch hole in it. I oversealed this with some tape, it was plenty gas tight. I put the TC as close to the center of the action as I could then, after a photo or two, filled it with bud carefully. In the photo there's a folded up post-it note to make seeing the details easier:


Now for the fun part. Temperature at that point definitely depends on draw. Basically it got hotter the faster I drew up to a point when it seemed to drop off again? I rapidly found out, as I expected, using your humble experimenter as part of the experiment is not wise. My head was quickly spinning and the numbers wondering around aimlessly. Fun, but not useful. No, fun is useful....

So I decided to only check maximum temperature I could get on 3 steps, about all I could trust myself to be at least somewhat objective. At step 2 I got 340, 390 at four and 430 at six. Yes, 430, the factory calls for 401 at that step, a serious difference of opinion. Before I measured 400. Summarized below are the factory number, my cotton pack (no draw) number and finally the highest I could toke to without passing out:

Step 2: 365, 310, 340
Step 4: 383, 360, 390
Step 6: 401, 400, 430

Again, (really) raw data and far from being reproducible, but probably relatively accurate and useful?

I see two things. First off the step sizes seem to track right. Before there was 40 degrees difference 2 to 6, same as we see now. The offset is I think a result of lots of factors, but it seems clear the Solo is taking 20 degree steps, not 9? I raced back to check the degrees C number, probably calculated one from the other, but it called for 5 degrees per step, exactly right.

The difference between the 'dialed up step temperature' and what's actually measured is very dependent on draw. I think you can make it match at most any point you want by changing the draw. It's a pretty good match at Step 4 for instance. But still the scale issue remains? Why are my steps 20 degrees each and theirs nine?

FWIW I don't doubt that 430 degree number, knowing what I do about the technology measuring it. It really is (at least) that high in the center. That means there's something hotter in the system somewhere and a sensor that's somehow controlling that temperature (since it's not sensing the load). Fun stuff.

Time to think some more, and figure a better way to rerun the experiment. Any thoughts? I mean past 'will step seven go to 450 then???'. Not sure what to think about that, either, but by experiment I think I can claim combustion does not happen at 430F...... Coughing fits happen at 430F, but no combustion. I sholda had a bubbler.....or a stunt man. I won't fall for that one again, I hope.

Thanks.

OF
 

Dreamerr

Always in a state of confusion and silliness♀
In all honesty without every knowing temps on a vape I settle into a certain number or dial setting. Every time it was around 370-375 so I am not sure those numbers are right. Do level 3 just for me out of curiosity. I have also noted that there is a difference between models and or serial numbers. In my case models as the 102 is hotter then the M1a3. I just don't think we can get an accurate temp. Ask someone in the digital vape business how they do it if you know such a person.
 

Detonator

Well-Known Member
Gentle Friends,

The other day I posted that I'd got a new toy, able to read temperatures using a thermocouple (welded pair of wires). By way of getting to know it (and a spot of fun) I put a probe in the cup and packed it in with cotton. This is known (or strongly assumed....) to read low since the metal of the wires sucks heat out as it tries to read it so the temperature builds up to a lower level, but usually such losses are pretty uniform and predictable. This is what I reported, the bold is the Maximum number I read 'on the fly' in each step while in parenthesis is the factory temperature:



In a following post I rambled on about all the things that had to be done to get more accurate (to the load temperature) information (standardizing load, draw speed, resistance and so on as well as checking the calibration of the sensor (although it seems 'right' to me).

So, curiosity got the best of me......turning my back on science I decided to see what happened if I just tried it with what I had at hand. I poked the TC through one of the holes on a new straight stem and then 'corked' it in place with the rubber mouthpiece from an old Omicron cart with the very tip cut off (to remove the extra restriction), basically a soft rubber stopper with a 3/6 or so inch hole in it. I oversealed this with some tape, it was plenty gas tight. I put the TC as close to the center of the action as I could then, after a photo or two, filled it with bud carefully. In the photo there's a folded up post-it note to make seeing the details easier:


Now for the fun part. Temperature at that point definitely depends on draw. Basically it got hotter the faster I drew up to a point when it seemed to drop off again? I rapidly found out, as I expected, using your humble experimenter as part of the experiment is not wise. My head was quickly spinning and the numbers wondering around aimlessly. Fun, but not useful. No, fun is useful....

So I decided to only check maximum temperature I could get on 3 steps, about all I could trust myself to be at least somewhat objective. At step 2 I got 340, 390 at four and 430 at six. Yes, 430, the factory calls for 401 at that step, a serious difference of opinion. Before I measured 400. Summarized below are the factory number, my cotton pack (no draw) number and finally the highest I could toke to without passing out:

Step 2: 365, 310, 340
Step 4: 383, 360, 390
Step 6: 401, 400, 430

Again, (really) raw data and far from being reproducible, but probably relatively accurate and useful?

I see two things. First off the step sizes seem to track right. Before there was 40 degrees difference 2 to 6, same as we see now. The offset is I think a result of lots of factors, but it seems clear the Solo is taking 20 degree steps, not 9? I raced back to check the degrees C number, probably calculated one from the other, but it called for 5 degrees per step, exactly right.

The difference between the 'dialed up step temperature' and what's actually measured is very dependent on draw. I think you can make it match at most any point you want by changing the draw. It's a pretty good match at Step 4 for instance. But still the scale issue remains? Why are my steps 20 degrees each and theirs nine?

FWIW I don't doubt that 430 degree number, knowing what I do about the technology measuring it. It really is (at least) that high in the center. That means there's something hotter in the system somewhere and a sensor that's somehow controlling that temperature (since it's not sensing the load). Fun stuff.

Time to think some more, and figure a better way to rerun the experiment. Any thoughts? I mean past 'will step seven go to 450 then???'. Not sure what to think about that, either, but by experiment I think I can claim combustion does not happen at 430F...... Coughing fits happen at 430F, but no combustion. I sholda had a bubbler.....or a stunt man. I won't fall for that one again, I hope.

Thanks.

OF


Wow, you wrote and worked alot to figure out temp is dependant on draw. Ever load a bowl crank it up to 6 then have the phone ring or something, forget about the solo and then when you hear the beep as it turns off you grab it and the bowl has just toasted it self up? I have. I think it gets extra hot if you just let it sit, while on. I've lost a few bowls like this.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Do level 3 just for me out of curiosity. I have also noted that there is a difference between models and or serial numbers. In my case models as the 102 is hotter then the M1a3. I just don't think we can get an accurate temp. Ask someone in the digital vape business how they do it if you know such a person.

Sure, I can check step 3, but it's a bit silly with the sort of accuracy/resolution I can get watching running numbers I think. I'd be very surprised if it wasn't half way between 2 and 4, same as I measured 5 between 4 and 6. I put more stock in '80 degrees from 2 to 6' than how different 3 is from 2 or 4. But, like I said, we can put it on the list....I hope.

I disagree somewhat, I think we can say that the load at the tip of the TC was 430F with fair confidence. Good even? Precision of such gear is very good. Moreover there's almost trivial scale issues if the system is 'clean'. Basic physics of the two metals used forces a small but very repeatable voltage to be generated, which can easily be very accurately read and 'looked up' for display. The system is, I think, very precise and probably quite accurate. Within a percent or so? The basic meter is rated at .4 degrees, plus or minus sensor error, which I hope to confirm is accurate enough for our uses. I'm waiting on another set of probes for that part.

I know basically how Arizer does it (they use a thermistor, temperature dependent resistor, a 'NTC' one in fact. Negative Temperature Coefficient, the resistance goes down as temperature goes up. More limited in range, but cheaper and easier to deal with, common digital thermometers use them. TC are industrial stuff, this one goes to like 2300F, used to control furnaces, experimental rigs and so on. I've used them a long time, we're old friends. AFAIK this system, modest as it is, is far superior to anything used in vapes or any other routine production item. It really does sense the temperature at the center of the load, although it probably still reads artificially low for heat flow reasons.

This is much like using a very precise thermometer in your living room to tell you how hot the room is as opposed to the setting on the thermostat. Literally.

Thanks for the thoughts. I fully agree, most of us 'play it by ear'.....and I'm cool with that. What's the old joke, 'I don't know what kinky is, but I know what I like...'? But I'm finding it kinda fun when I try to put real (or what I think are real) numbers on that it's not making sense here? Still 'results not expected' are the meat of the scientific method, or so I'm told.

Wow, you wrote and worked alot to figure out temp is dependant on draw. Ever load a bowl crank it up to 6 then have the phone ring or something, forget about the solo and then when you hear the beep as it turns off you grab it and the bowl has just toasted it self up? I have. I think it gets extra hot if you just let it sit, while on. I've lost a few bowls like this.

I think you missed the point. I think everyone knew it would depend, the question is how much and why? I'm looking for numbers, mostly 'cuz that's the kinda guy I am.

Sure, I've had it idle vapor away, I don't think at anything like the same rate as actively drawing on it. From what I just reported again above, I've measured 400 F in a cotton packed bowl at step 6, it can get at least that hot. I think we all expect the goodness to wonder away at 400F given enough time, don't you?

As far as getting 'extra hot' just sitting I don't agree. I saw drops of ten degrees in a few seconds. It would fall 20 degrees sometimes as I tried to catch my breath between hits. It never went up. It might be different at other places in the load, but I tend to doubt it will be much so?

OF
 
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salivape

Well-Known Member
@OF Interesting stuff as always! I'll come back with a clear head and read it thoroughly as I got a little lost haha, but your readings seem hot and varied! Maybe this explains the solos phenomenal cloud ability? Higher temps than we think?

I think you need to write a v2 for most of your posts, as in a dumbed down version for us plebs :lol:
 

Detonator

Well-Known Member
I probly did miss the point, I going to back out slowly now. You scientist carry on, I appreciate all your doing.

SIWPFSWIPTLS - sorry I was pretty fucking stoned when I posted that last shit

I'm still learning to appreciate vaping more and more.

When I first switched to vaping only level 7 on the solo would satisfy me and I think it is close to combusting, now I like 6 better, and I'm actually going to try 5 now and see if in get extra flavor.
 

salivape

Well-Known Member
@Detonator I was exactly the same! Nothing but 7 would do. I am backing off slowly, I now start at 4 and creep up to 6. You'll be amazed by the flavour difference at lower temps. I still miss the high temp cannabinoids if I stay lower, but I've said before that I need to do it because the high temps kill my lungs.. but I love it

We'll get there, slowly but surely
 
salivape,

Dreamerr

Always in a state of confusion and silliness♀
OF, I have a stranger question. I think you haven't used the ascent yet but I have a unit to try from another member. I will report my full test on that thread but it brought up an interesting question. Some people think that the solo is convection leaning hard, and someone told me they think it is alllllllllllllll conduction like the pax. In my testing using the same load size...solo size the ascent ran through the herb way faster, again my full thoughts will be in that thread but not today as I am in a fucked up mood and apologize in advance for a bit nasty leaning posts as my mental is out of control. Anyhow my question to you OF is in your opinion how much convection vs conduction do you think the solo is? I know when I have left my herb in the solo burning on 3 and unused it got brown but vaped as normal when I did a new session. Taste did suffer but not meds IMO. The same thing happened with the pinnacle which I did on purpose to test.
 
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