Dabpress Rosin Plates

Cilleire

Cilleire

EuroVapeSim2
elmomuzz said:
Thank you. I’m quite proud and happy. This one is all me from seed to sensation. :)
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elmomuzz said:
The press in the video was at 200 degrees.

I used to collect seeds from especially good bags of herb. This particular plant came from a early 2000s seed. I love bringing a strain back from the dead. I’m calling it Lindbergher. :D
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You are living the dream, I hope someday to have a house with space to grow and have 100% control over your own final product.
 
Hogni

Hogni

Honi soit qui mal y pense
Would be interesting to compare the results of this method to

2. method
Your method but boil the water with weed between every exchange of water

3. method
Don't try to purify the weed before making butter. Just put the ready cannabutter to freshwater, let it boil for a few minutes and let the solution cool down until the butter separates from the water, is hard and lying on the water. Take the butter off and repeat this process with fresh water until your water doesn't get murky and greenish anymore.
 
Doktor Dub

Doktor Dub

Well-Known Member
Hogni said:
Don't try to purify the weed before making butter. Just put the ready cannabutter to freshwater, let it boil for a few minutes and let the solution cool down until the butter separates from the water, is hard and lying on the water. Take the butter off and repeat this process with fresh water until your water doesn't get murky and greenish anymore.
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Don t know if this would have the same fx, but this definetely cleans up butter a lot - i do it always with butter.

And i would like to ad: making cannabutter out of the spent pucks is great, my last batch was some of the best edibles i ever had and quite strong

:2c:
 
pxl_jockey

pxl_jockey

Just a dude
@elmomuzz holy moly dude, WTF?! What kinda witchcraft is this and how can I get some?! From BAGSEED?!!! :bowdown: I do look forward to pressing material where I know every lil thing about it and the care it’s received. :nod:

@Hackerman Thank you sir! Cut & pasted for posterity just in case FC explodes. I like to cook and bake when I’m feeling like good and am comfortable in the kitchen, however I’ve never done much candy-making. I know that you and psychonaut have lots of experience in this department, both rosin and chips, and I can’t wait to try it all out. I’d love to be able to call myself a candyman someday :D Glad to see you back around the FC jawn!

@Hogni same for you sir! You’ve been sorely missed during your sabbatical; we’ve barely muddled through without you... way too much peace and love around the place! :haw: Like Sesame Street without Oscar the Grouch!

Whoooo-hoooooo! Happy Humpday! Had two medical appointments at two different hospitals in two different cities today and it’s high time for me to get my attitude adjusted so I bid you all a fond adieu for now! :peace:
 
psychonaut

psychonaut

Company Rep
Company Rep
Been post processing my rosin for testing using our 7x7" terp sauce plate. I've tried 2 different strains and I feel like the material that budders up rather quickly if not immediately requires a different process than if you have more sappy or runny material.

I pressed out some skunk #1 auto flower at 210F in 160u filter, with a consistency mixture of budder and a shatter. Bud is over 3 months cured in jars. I have to run the PID on the terp plate controller about 20F hotter as my set temp than what I wish to achieve at the base of the jar. This is due in part to how the jars are designed, they don't rest flat like say a beaker would. Unfortunately I dont have any flat glass bottom jars with screw on lids so it is what it is, no matter, it all works the same so long as you know your jar floor temp. I chose a PID temp of 160F to achieve about 140F on the jar, this temp was needed to melt the rosin, and it melted very, very slowly. Temps will vary based on material. The higher temps will decarboxylate your oil faster, so it pays to be mindful of the time.

The rosin started off in a 0.84g ball, pretty hard, I guess pull and snap consistency with the emphasis more on snap. Sorry I didnt get a pre-picture, but it looked like a little cloudy ball of glass, definitely not a crystalline type consistency. I put the ball of rosin in the middle of the jar and tightened the cap then onto the sauce plate.

After about 5 hours on the plate, it was time for bed so I took it off to avoid it fully decarboxylating while I slept. This morning I opened the jar for the first time to get a look. So far this is looking a lot like it just muffined up sort of like what BHO does while in a vacuum. Those spots on the bottom look like crystals and there may be there but those large voids appear to be air bubbles. I haven't stirred it as I want to see how long it takes to decarboxylate so will run it again for part 2 this afternoon while I can babysit it.

The consistency has definitely changed, the jar still smells stinky so I guess I'll have to have a dab towards the end of this experiment before it's decarb'd then again after. Color hasn't changed much.

 
DogBoy

DogBoy

know fear
FlyingLow said:
Finding out older=darker and less return (10%).
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...older whut…???...

...I got brave and sacrificed another 1/8th of Taytenate to the press with much better results...

...I got .5 grms out of 3.5 in two presses @ 220 F 2:30 or so...nothing blew out....

...the first press was .4 and the second was not really any darker...

...it is like the dark sticky shatter I got the first time I did a second press...

...I don't much like that but it vapes well and cleans up as well as the commercial concentrates...

...I am thinking to try lower temps...
 
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BabyFacedFinster

BabyFacedFinster

Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
psychonaut said:
Been post processing my rosin for testing using our 7x7" terp sauce plate. I've tried 2 different strains and I feel like the material that budders up rather quickly if not immediately requires a different process than if you have more sappy or runny material.

I pressed out some skunk #1 auto flower at 210F in 160u filter, with a consistency mixture of budder and a shatter. Bud is over 3 months cured in jars. I have to run the PID on the terp plate controller about 20F hotter as my set temp than what I wish to achieve at the base of the jar. This is due in part to how the jars are designed, they don't rest flat like say a beaker would. Unfortunately I dont have any flat glass bottom jars with screw on lids so it is what it is, no matter, it all works the same so long as you know your jar floor temp. I chose a PID temp of 160F to achieve about 140F on the jar, this temp was needed to melt the rosin, and it melted very, very slowly. Temps will vary based on material. The higher temps will decarboxylate your oil faster, so it pays to be mindful of the time.

The rosin started off in a 0.84g ball, pretty hard, I guess pull and snap consistency with the emphasis more on snap. Sorry I didnt get a pre-picture, but it looked like a little cloudy ball of glass, definitely not a crystalline type consistency. I put the ball of rosin in the middle of the jar and tightened the cap then onto the sauce plate.

After about 5 hours on the plate, it was time for bed so I took it off to avoid it fully decarboxylating while I slept. This morning I opened the jar for the first time to get a look. So far this is looking a lot like it just muffined up sort of like what BHO does while in a vacuum. Those spots on the bottom look like crystals and there may be there but those large voids appear to be air bubbles. I haven't stirred it as I want to see how long it takes to decarboxylate so will run it again for part 2 this afternoon while I can babysit it.

The consistency has definitely changed, the jar still smells stinky so I guess I'll have to have a dab towards the end of this experiment before it's decarb'd then again after. Color hasn't changed much.

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Thanks so much @psychonaut for posting on this. It is an area I want to learn so much more about. Can't wait to hear on how it turns out, and also any experiences with sappy starting rosin.

I mentioned that starting a separate thread on post processing would be quite helpful. I might do that tonight if time allows. It would be great @psychonaut if you might transfer a copy of your post over to that thread if I got it going. Decarbing is a whole other aspect of post processing that I didn't consider.
 
psychonaut

psychonaut

Company Rep
Company Rep
Sure I can offer up some novice advice at the moment at the very least =) I have the jar back on the heat and it's melted down now. I stirred it before putting it back on the heat and the consistancy was pretty much paste which is nothing different from how it would have changed on it's own. We'll see if this extra heatup gives me something more runny when cooled.
 
psychonaut

psychonaut

Company Rep
Company Rep
No, I dont expect I will with this flower. Right now I took it off the heat again, it did get a little darker? This is after it had cooled for an hour or so. More sticky less waxy it seems. Taste is still great. I am thinking it's close to decarboxylating and actually like where it's at now. Nice effects dont seem any different.

 
ZedsFiction

ZedsFiction

New Member
Greetings rosineers!

I just recently purchased a 3t dab press as my entry point to making rosin. I'm pretty excited!

While I was reading up on the specifications of the other models, I noticed the 6t makes mention of the bottle jack being upgradable. Is there any reason that would stop you from upgrading the 3t model's jack as well, say after this one dies?

I'm quite certain the 3t will meet the requirements of what I want to do for now (personal dabbling), but it was just a thought for in the future/repairs.

Thanks in advance guys.
 
psychonaut

psychonaut

Company Rep
Company Rep
ZedsFiction said:
Greetings rosineers!

I just recently purchased a 3t dab press as my entry point to making rosin. I'm pretty excited!

While I was reading up on the specifications of the other models, I noticed the 6t makes mention of the bottle jack being upgradable. Is there any reason that would stop you from upgrading the 3t model's jack as well, say after this one dies?

I'm quite certain the 3t will meet the requirements of what I want to do for now (personal dabbling), but it was just a thought for in the future/repairs.

Thanks in advance guys.
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The frame can bear 4 tons if force so if you find a suitable jack height wise that will fit, it will work just fine. I would not recommend to exceed 4 tons, and preferably, get a replacement 3t jack from us as the tapped holes are in place to secure the jack to the frame.
 
ZedsFiction

ZedsFiction

New Member
psychonaut said:
The frame can bear 4 tons if force so if you find a suitable jack height wise that will fit, it will work just fine. I would not recommend to exceed 4 tons, and preferably, get a replacement 3t jack from us as the tapped holes are in place to secure the jack to the frame.
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Right on. Thanks for the informative and quick reply!

It was just a thought that crossed my mind upon seeing the other one being upgradable, and I couldn't find an answer anywhere.

Now I'll go back to finishing all 121 pages of this thread, hehe.
 
LesPlenty

LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
DogBoy said:
I got brave and sacrificed another 1/8th
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I used to say sacrifice as well, now I call it value-adding.:myday:
DogBoy said:
...ok...these buds were getting on...I had them two months...
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I have pressed buds that are over 12 months old and still get nearly 20% return.:tup:
ZedsFiction said:
Now I'll go back to finishing all 121 pages of this thread
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Worse reading around, I found reading the lot gives you a sound basis to start, fewer heartaches for sure and a lot less testing to boot.:science:
 
JohnnyMauser

JohnnyMauser

Well-Known Member
jag_ed said:
Silicone and parchment paper aren’t a healthy solution for long term storage due to the fact that the terpenes will act as a solvent and will leach the silicone into your product. I use PTFE paper or glass jars for long term storage and reg parchment for squishing.
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What is long term storage? I Press on the Silicone Sheets and storage them on it. They last about 3-7 days... my glass jars wont release the trates as good as the paper do...

If i use RAW Parchment, everytime it breaks....
 
psychonaut

psychonaut

Company Rep
Company Rep
I always recommend rosineers move their oil to a glass containers and store at room temp or in the fridge if you feel like it may be a while before you start using it. If you dont plan on using the oil for a month or two, freeze it in glass jars in a freezer bag, it should keep for quite some time. Let the oil come to room temp before opening the jars to use.

I don't recommend to store in silicone for very long as the non-stick surface can contribute to evaporation IME, at least at room temps, your budders may turn into crumble with extended storage.

With glass it sticks to it and seems to be better for storage in general, the drawback as mentioned is oil sticking to the glass. If that's a problem, the other options are limited. People are also using PTFE sheets for storage. I've not used them as I am pretty much on the glass bandwagon presently.

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In regards to my post processing on the oil, it really did change up the consistency for the better IMO, It is still stringy buddery not like it was before more of a hard pull and snap. I will likely be doing it again with more flower rosin, not in hopes to grow crystals but to take an undesirable consistency and change it.

I will try growing crystals if I can get my hands on some good quality hash! So expensive out here and my skills don't give me enough yields to be able to do it myself yet.
 
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