Discontinued The Grasshopper

Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
many hopperists like that harshness which emulate smoking. and those holes wouldn't help when milking up a bong ether. this is good idea if holes can be closed/opened as necessary. but it is hard to imagine how to make an adjustable airflow without compromising Hoppers pen looking camouflage.
I think there's a simple solution for that, assuming the drilled holes idea works. Ghl could just offer a drilled holes mouthpiece as an accessory. That way you'd have 2 to swap out depending on your use of choice.
 

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
Yeah maybe over time. Mine is stainless steel, I think they used 316?? Even if it was 303 or 304. Corrosion would be one of the things I would be least concerned about with respect to rain.
It's not the outside, its the inside of the unit.... If water or moisture is allowed to seep in, it will corrode the non-stainless steel metals (electrical contacts) inside. I doubt very much they use gold for the contacts, probably nickel-plate at best.
 
JoeMama,

Vaperist

Well-Known Member
I think there's a simple solution for that, assuming the drilled holes idea works. Ghl could just offer a drilled holes mouthpiece as an accessory. That way you'd have 2 to swap out depending on your use of choice.

they could start by selling extra mouthpieces like they are in original shape and form. i asked Caroline if i can add extra mouthpiece to my order, so that i can use one while other is soaking in ISO. that was my civilized excuse. the real reason is that i want extra mouthpiece so i can open it, taking that plastic thing out and use it for bong hits only. so latter i could torch it up and take a reclaim dab trough a rig. :evil:

but anywayz, she said NO. we can't add extra mouthpiece at this point in time. if it was possible i see no problem to drill a holes as much as you like.

BIG TIME EDIT: i just asked a same question again. see what she answered
Hi There,

We can certainly sell you an extra Front End. The cost is $25. If you wish to proceed, let me know and I will send you an invoice via PayPal.

Best,
Caroline

fuck yeah i wanna proceed. :evil:
 
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kingfisher

Well-Known Member
It's not the outside, its the inside of the unit.... If water or moisture is allowed to seep in, it will corrode the non-stainless steel metals (electrical contacts) inside. I doubt very much they use gold for the contacts, probably nickel-plate at best.


OK so at this point I am just trying to point you in the right direction.
1. They may be gold plated. They are certainly brass/gold looking.
2. Nickel actually is an expensive metal and highly corrosion resistant. Nickel is an alloying metal commonly used in some stainless steels for its anti corrosion properties.
3. If i was concerned about corrosion, which would happen after the device shorts it's electronics. Though water could get in and the device could be without a battery. In that case I wold be concerned about corrosion on the circuit board.
 
kingfisher,

Moe_

Active Member
Is it normal for the blue LEDs to flicker while drawing on the hopper? Mine flicker like a lil strobe, but a couple seconds after stopping the inhale they go back solid...
No. When mine did that it also caused the back end to get hot and performed worse. They shortened my body because my back end wasn't making a good enough connection with the battery.

The only time the lights should flicker is when the battery is about to die.
 

snorcan

Stay charged, my friends
Interesting! For the most part I haven't noticed the back end get too hot. A few days back, the back end got scorching hot over a few pulls. I emailed GHL and the advice I got was to (a) ensure that the battery end threads are screwed relatively tight (no gap), and/or (2) make sure that the threads on the back end are free of debris.

I checked the threads and removed that looked like a bunch of metal shavings leftover from the machining process, and tightened it. Now my back end performs like it did before. It gets warm but not HOT.
 

pushpaw

Well-Known Member
Is it normal for the blue LEDs to flicker while drawing on the hopper? Mine flicker like a lil strobe, but a couple seconds after stopping the inhale they go back solid...
I remember reading some time ago, and I don't remember if it was in this thread or not, that the flickering is showing that the heater is drawing power and that the flickering gets more noticeable as the battery gets depleted, which seems accurate from my own usage. It will start off as a faint flicker, but after a bowl or so it gets more prominent and shortly after that will blink red to show the battery needs to be recharged.

I don't know if that was intentional or not, but seems consistent for me through 2 bodies and now 2 backends (one old, and now one newer type.)
 

Vaperist

Well-Known Member
Interesting! For the most part I haven't noticed the back end get too hot. A few days back, the back end got scorching hot over a few pulls. I emailed GHL and the advice I got was to (a) ensure that the battery end threads are screwed relatively tight (no gap), and/or (2) make sure that the threads on the back end are free of debris.

I checked the threads and removed that looked like a bunch of metal shavings leftover from the machining process, and tightened it. Now my back end performs like it did before. It gets warm but not HOT.
try that magic anti clockwise twist of clicker when it is at ON position if hot end come back. i don't know why, how or if it works, but here was a positive feedback in this thread saying that this quick fix helped.
so it was said to do so:
a) click your unit ON
b) give an anticlockwise half a turn for that clicker
c) take a big bong hit at temperature 5 from a full chamber of herb. preferably with some kief sandwiched between it. ;) and enjoy your cooler backend while you are having a hot THC sweating yourself :myday:
 
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MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
No. When mine did that it also caused the back end to get hot and performed worse. They shortened my body because my back end wasn't making a good enough connection with the battery.

The only time the lights should flicker is when the battery is about to die.
What batch was your hopper from?
Pre-order or retail?
 
MoltenTiger,

Moe_

Active Member
I remember reading some time ago, and I don't remember if it was in this thread or not, that the flickering is showing that the heater is drawing power and that the flickering gets more noticeable as the battery gets depleted, which seems accurate from my own usage. It will start off as a faint flicker, but after a bowl or so it gets more prominent and shortly after that will blink red to show the battery needs to be recharged.

I don't know if that was intentional or not, but seems consistent for me through 2 bodies and now 2 backends (one old, and now one newer type.)
It is definitely 100% not supposed to happen until the battery is just about to die.

What batch was your hopper from?
Pre-order or retail?
First batch of Ti hoppers from Vapefiend.
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
It is definitely 100% not supposed to happen until the battery is just about to die.


First batch of Ti hoppers from Vapefiend.
Hmm I think mine was from the second batch..
what date was batch 1?

Mine will flicker from a charged battery but it's not very noticeable until just before it's flat (flashes red) when it more noticeably strobes.
 
MoltenTiger,
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Moe_

Active Member
Hmm I think mine was from the second batch..
what date was batch 1?

Mine will flicker from a charged battery but it's not very noticeable until just before it's flat (flashes red) when it more noticeably strobes.
Don't remember exactly, but I'm guessing you and everyone else with flickering lights have a body that's too long causing a bad connection with the battery.
 
Moe_,

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
Don't remember exactly, but I'm guessing you and everyone else with flickering lights have a body that's too long causing a bad connection with the battery.
Mine burns through batteries fast, so perhaps.
I'll compare it with my pre-order and if needed send it away for a service.
It'll have to be pretty dead for me to part with it before I have a back-up.
 

vapor.man

Well-Known Member
I have the SS GH and also noticed this blue flickering light. Most of the time it starts during the 2nd bowl. It happened that the light started flickering in the middle of the 2nd load when I heated it up for the first draw. Then at the second draw there was no flickering.
For me it doesn't look like a problem. It just gives u an idea of the battery status. Heating from cold consumes more power so it starts flickering. This flickering gets much more noticeable before the battery is empty and it switches to red blinking.
Don't have any problem with a hot backend. Once or twice it got a little bit warm when I used it throug a bubbler. But I've received my hopper only 3 weeks ago so lets hope it stays as it is...
Oh, and my battery is lasting 2 -3 loads, depends on the usage.
 

kingfisher

Well-Known Member
Don't remember exactly, but I'm guessing you and everyone else with flickering lights have a body that's too long causing a bad connection with the battery.

It's amazing. I don't know their design and immediately upon closing the battery chamber I thought, wow, there isn't much thread engagement for the battery. Aka compression of the battery spring.
 
kingfisher,

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
OK so at this point I am just trying to point you in the right direction.
1. They may be gold plated. They are certainly brass/gold looking.
2. Nickel actually is an expensive metal and highly corrosion resistant. Nickel is an alloying metal commonly used in some stainless steels for its anti corrosion properties.
3. If i was concerned about corrosion, which would happen after the device shorts it's electronics. Though water could get in and the device could be without a battery. In that case I wold be concerned about corrosion on the circuit board.

Fair enough. I'm keeping mine out of the rain.
 

Gandalf

Well-Known Member
I have the SS GH and also noticed this blue flickering light. Most of the time it starts during the 2nd bowl. It happened that the light started flickering in the middle of the 2nd load when I heated it up for the first draw. Then at the second draw there was no flickering.

I've been paying more attention to the blue light flickering and this is exactly how it happens for me as well. Starts off completely solid for the first few hits, then starts flickering a bit. I do believe I read somewhere earlier in this thread that that's just what happens when the battery level drops. I'm not at all worried about it.

On another note, this Ti I got back from Hopper Labs after my warranty exchange is a LOT sturdier than the first one. The first one never seemed completely reliable to me because every 1 in 3 clicks I would get blinking red lights. I improved this by screwing the back-end to the body more tightly, so it happened every maybe 1 in 6 clicks, but it was still a problem. Then one day the unit combusted the herb and the whole thing completely died.

My new Ti is working flawlessly. No hot back-end, no blinking red light issues, no issues whatsoever. Really hoping it stays that way.
 

Lahey

Cruisin'
Checking in at 3+ weeks, hopping along nicely.

Regarding the blue lights, here's what I notice with mine:

The dial/clicker piece on mine has a little bit of give side to side, independent from the lower thread part of the back end. Very little, like just a fraction of a mm, but you can feel it shift when you press it with your thumb to one side or the other.

When shifted to one side the blue lights blink, when shifted the other way they stay perfectly solid.
I have repeated these results with batteries at various stages of depletion.

It works either way, using it many times daily.

Here is some video demonstrating my observation.
https://vid.me/t1yV

There are notes on what you are seeing in the video description.

While fiddling with the back end for extended periods of time, I have two or three times managed to turn the unit on without depressing the button, or once or twice with a half click. That, combined with the orientation changing the lights from flickering to solid, leads me to believe that there is a slight imperfection in the machining of my back end, causing it to not make a perfect connection.

I will say that it continues to work consistently in spite of these quirks, and man it works so good. I'm a fan boy by now for sure. Even with the imperfection I will also say it feels very sturdy physically, not "janky" like it is going to break or anything. Whether or not the electrical will hold up is anyone's guess though. When I get my pre-order I will see how they compare.

:science:
 
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Moe_

Active Member
Just want to reiterate if your Grasshopper is blinking blue before the battery is JUST about to die, there is an issue with your Grasshopper. It may not be a big enough issue to bother you or affect performance, but just so everyone knows it is NOT how a properly functioning Grasshopper is supposed to function. Mine did the exact same thing all of yours are doing before they shortened my body, now it's solid blue 100% of the time except on the hit just before the battery needs charging.
 
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Moe_,

Vaperist

Well-Known Member
Checking in at 3+ weeks, hopping along nicely.

Regarding the blue lights, here's what I notice with mine:

The dial/clicker piece on mine has a little bit of give side to side, independent from the lower thread part of the back end. Very little, like just a fraction of a mm, but you can feel it shift when you press it with your thumb to one side or the other.

When shifted to one side the blue lights blink, when shifted the other way they stay perfectly solid.
I have repeated these results with batteries at various stages of depletion.

It works either way, using it many times daily.

Here is some video demonstrating my observation.
https://vid.me/t1yV

While fiddling with the back end for extended periods of time, I have two or three times managed to turn the unit on without depressing the button, or once or twice with a half click. That, combined with the orientation changing the lights from flickering to solid, leads me to believe that there is a slight imperfection in the machining of my back end, causing it to not make a perfect connection.

I will say that it continues to work consistently in spite of these quirks, and man it works so good. I'm a fan boy by now for sure. Even with the imperfection I will also say it feels very sturdy physically, not "janky" like it is going to break or anything. Whether or not the electrical will hold up is anyone's guess though. When I get my pre-order I will see how they compare.

:science:
very hard to understand what you mean with this :(
"has a little bit of give side to side"
"lower thread part of the back end"
 
Vaperist,

Lahey

Cruisin'
very hard to understand what you mean with this :(
"has a little bit of give side to side"
"lower thread part of the back end"
Did you watch the video? It's not great but I think you can see what I mean there.

I think of the backend as two parts in my description: the lower part which threads into the body, and the upper part which is separated by the gap and consists of the dial and clicker, and which, at least on my unit, has a little bit of give back and forth which I think you can see in the video.

By "give side to side" I mean it moves a little when I push on it.

Just want to reiterate if your Grasshopper is blinking blue before the battery is JUST about to die, there is an issue with your Grasshopper. It may not be a big enough issue to bother you or affect performance, but just so everyone knows it is NOT how a properly functioning Grasshopper is supposed to function. Mine did the exact same thing all of yours are doing before they shortened my body, now it's solid blue 100% of the time except on the hit just before the battery needs charging.

I think we are more or less in agreement on this, it's just that mine is capable of both behaviors and I noticed I can control it by jiggering the back end. I have no doubt that this is an indication of the manufacturing being a little off, and am thankful that it hasn't affected performance so far.

Edit: I see the distinction you made now, I'll try to make a note of what it does immediately before the battery dies and it flashes red, even when I have it so it is not flickering blue the rest of the time. I'm sure you are right.
 
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