Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.

SlideOrDie

Well-Known Member
@THC SCIENTIFIC

Hey boss, it's been a few since I've been able to find the time to figure this beast of an SR-71 out and have finally had a couple days to really sit with it and try to figure it out.

After catching up a bit with what's been going on here, I am kind of confused as to what the problem is with the Persei heads and its issues regarding the power button not wanting to work.

I received the newest generation of Persei heads with my SR-71's as part of the non serial numbered Persei update and am unfortunately affected by this issue as well. It happened a few times in the beginning but is happening more and more frequently the more use it gets.

Anyways, I eventually got my last coil cut to ~40% so that the rod sticks out just a bit above it. All put together properly, I primed the coil and added a nice dab to the top, loaded it up and the thing ran like a damn beast, especially when connected to a micro rig. You can take ridiculously huge rips as long as you're easy on the power. I find I start getting a pretty decent amount vapor at about the 5 second mark and then let off at around 8 seconds and feather the power button after that to maintain a steady stream of vapor. I Always cool it down as much as I can at the end of my hit and then continue after exhaling for a half minute at a time depending on the size/duration of the session.

I've gone through about 7g of shatter in the past couple days and I can't seem to keep it from leaking oil from around the rod no matter how long I cool it down or how I store it. It always seems to eventually creep down between the splits in the threaded portion where the nut tightens the rod. The oil seems to then go down through those slits and the little crevice that runs down the side of the rod into the bottom chamber coating the connection at the bottom which seems to (maybe?) disrupt the said connection as performance begins to deteriorate once a couple/few grams of meds have been run through it. Taste also seems to be affected as well after heavy use until it is cleaned.

No matter how hard I try, it doesn't seem like the center nut is able to be completely tighetend down properly. Upon closer inspection, I noticed that the centre section doesn't seem to be completely level/centered once the center nut is tightened down and I'm wondering if this could be the cause of some of the leaking?

As I was cleaning my SR-71 this morning, I managed to be awesome and drop one of the damn PTFE bushings down the sink. Naomi was nice enough to add one to my order once we fixed it. So until I receive my replacement bushing and figure the SR-71 and the leak out, I'm holding off on the Core. Instead, I ordered an SS kit and a few KISS carts to try.
 

Sleepin in CA

Higher than a Pterodactyl, you can call me Caveman
Accessory Maker
@THC SCIENTIFIC

Hey doesn't,t slide it's been a few since I've been able to find the time to figure this beast of an SR-71 out and have finally had a couple days to really sit with it and try to figure it out.

After catching up a bit with what's been going on here, I am kind of confused as to what the problem is with the Persei heads and its issues regarding the power button not wanting to work.

I received the newest generation of Persei heads with my SR-71's as part of the non serial numbered Persei update and am unfortunately affected by this issue as well. It happened a few times in the beginning but is happening more and more frequently the more use it gets.

Anyways, I eventually got my last coil cut to ~40% so that the rod sticks out just a bit above it. All put together properly, I primed the coil and added a nice dab to the top, loaded it up and the thing ran like a damn beast, especially when connected to a micro rig. You can take ridiculously huge rips as long as you're easy on the power. I find I start getting a pretty decent amount vapor at about the 5 second mark and then let off at around 8 seconds and feather the power button after that to maintain a steady stream of vapor. I Always cool it down as much as I can at the end of my hit and then continue after exhaling for a half minute at a time depending on the size/duration of the session.

I've gone through about 7g of shatter in the past couple days and I can't seem to keep it from leaking oil from around the rod no matter how long I cool it down or how I store it. It always seems to eventually creep down between the splits in the threaded portion where the nut tightens the rod. The oil seems to then go down through those slits and the little crevice that runs down the side of the rod into the bottom chamber coating the connection at the bottom which seems to (maybe?) disrupt the said connection as performance begins to deteriorate once a couple/few grams of meds have been run through it. Taste also seems to be affected as well after heavy use until it is cleaned.

No matter how hard I try, it doesn't seem like the center nut is able to be completely tighetend down properly. Upon closer inspection, I noticed that the centre section doesn't seem to be completely level/centered once the center nut is tightened down and I'm wondering if this could be the cause of some of the leaking?

As I was cleaning my SR-71 this morning, I managed to be awesome and drop one of the damn PTFE bushings down the sink. Naomi was nice enough to add one to my order once we fixed it. So until I receive my replacement bushing and figure the SR-71 and the leak out, I'm holding off on the Core. Instead, I ordered an SS kit and a few KISS carts to try.
Between hits...Try laying the persei on its side with the mouthpiece slightly above level so the coil doesn't slide. Once I started this.... I almost never have much more than a .1 or. 2 after a ton of wax.
 
Sleepin in CA,
  • Like
Reactions: SlideOrDie

SlideOrDie

Well-Known Member
Try laying the persei on its side with the mouthpiece slightly above level so the coil doesn't slide. Once I started this.... I almost never have much more than a .1 or. 2 after a ton of wax.

I have been storing it on it's side with the mouth piece resting on a foam packing peanut as someone else suggested. When not in use, the foam packing peanut makes the mouthpiece sit slightly elevated as you have described.
 

Sleepin in CA

Higher than a Pterodactyl, you can call me Caveman
Accessory Maker
Can you show a picture of the nut holding the ceramic rod in place? I want to see what you mean by it being unlevel.
 
Sleepin in CA,

exit

Well-Known Member
just some quick suggestions about what i do for sr71 use, and man i know i should clean it more frequently but i'll load like 5 g's into it before i even clean it out, keeps hitting... much of this was G's advice when i was having trouble getting used to mine, hopefully i didn't mangle his words :p, but i have damn near 100% success with it


1. always check resistance before using it if it's been sitting around!!! always make sure it's ~1.7ohm
2. when i'm done hitting it i draw for a long time until its totally cooled down. just keep inhaling from it.
3, when i'm hitting it from cold, i keep it kinda diagonal, wait until i hear the oil start bubblnig then i start pulling
4. when i take it apart or back together, i have a pair of pliers handy. when i put it back together, i crank that center nut down HARD AS FUCK with some pliers, literally as hard as i can, because it always comes undone easy, but you'll be sad if it isn't as tight as it can possibly be
5. if it hasn't been cleaned recently, take off the mouthpiece and blow through it.... make sure you can blow air through it. especially if the coil is cut down it's easy for some melty wax to get up in there and clog the mouthpiece so you sound like you're pulling but you're not actually pulling

performance should be expected to degrade after running a couple g's through it.... that's a lot of wax, don't you know! its gonna get dirty no matter what!~

that said i would probably think you just need to get more used to the sr71 quirks? i have been using it for months without any serious leaks (the only time i actually got a bad leak i was overheating it way way way too much and the oil just started dripping out haha), i haven't had a case of bad flavor or unhittability in a long ass time

i don't use a packing peanut or anything like that. i draw until its totally cool to the touch after i'm done and leave it on its side. i really don't know what to say about your shatter leaking out except that you might be overloading it?

if you can't differentiate between hitting a fresh load and hitting from the reserves in the oil coil just by hitting it and feeling the vapor, i would say get more acquainted with running the oil coil super dry until there's no hits left ;) i personally was surprised by how long it can keep going.

if you put fresh stuff in and you hit it until it starts hitting, and you load it again, yeah you'll run into leaks... i've actually found if you load it and wait for it to stop hitting, cool it down to room temp, swap out for some fresh batteries, keep going, and you'll keep getting great hits for a long time. i guess i would just bet that you might be loading more than you really need to?
 

Noize23

Active Member
All tickets have been cleared please read your emails and yes its ok we get them in different departments but i get all of them to my comp since i have the master account.

äääähm i got no answer and no mail,and the orderstatus is "Awaiting Fulfillment" again....
my ordernumber is: 13473, maybe this help...

Greetings,

Noize
 
Noize23,

exit

Well-Known Member
äääähm i got no answer and no mail,and the orderstatus is "Awaiting Fulfillment" again....
my ordernumber is: 13473, maybe this help...

Greetings,

Noize

have patience young one..... W9 is a small, understaffed company... appreciate how hard they work, just have patience and youll be taken care of :)
 

SlideOrDie

Well-Known Member
@exit

Thanks for the advice, I'll follow that when I put everything back together.

@Sleepin in CA

Here's a couple pics of what I'm trying to describe... Maybe I'm just seeing things :/

photo23_zps5069b0e5.jpg
photo13_zps923b65bf.jpg


EDIT - UPDATE: Wow... Ok, so finally some good news...

Totally forgot that I was sent a replacement bottom connector a ways back, which luckily still had an extra couple PTFE bushings in it! That being said, if my order hasn't shipped yet, I will no longer require the replacements Naomi had ever so kindly added to my order. I can't wait to get back up and running!

Here's an updated pic of the entire assembly once together minus the bottom threaded portion of the cart to make sure I've got it assembled correctly.

photo1_zpsf71ea087.jpg


It's time for some rest, will continue tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks again guys for all the assistance!
 
Last edited:

SuckingTHC

New Member
Hi Naomi

You guys have been great with everything including the customer service ! Anybody on this site that doesn't think so must really be a difficult customer to get along with I must say to everyone here

But I'm sorry to have to say
That my Order 13255 for the core kiss carts and the bender tracking number
9405510200986146586461
Is lost in post office tracking
System

Also can you find out from G
What went wrong with my
Persei top that I sent back
To you guys

Thank you Naomi
 
SuckingTHC,
  • Like
Reactions: TommydCat

Hedonismbot

Well-Known Member
just some quick suggestions about what i do for sr71 use, and man i know i should clean it more frequently but i'll load like 5 g's into it before i even clean it out, keeps hitting... much of this was G's advice when i was having trouble getting used to mine, hopefully i didn't mangle his words :p, but i have damn near 100% success with it


1. always check resistance before using it if it's been sitting around!!! always make sure it's ~1.7ohm
2. when i'm done hitting it i draw for a long time until its totally cooled down. just keep inhaling from it.
3, when i'm hitting it from cold, i keep it kinda diagonal, wait until i hear the oil start bubblnig then i start pulling
4. when i take it apart or back together, i have a pair of pliers handy. when i put it back together, i crank that center nut down HARD AS FUCK with some pliers, literally as hard as i can, because it always comes undone easy, but you'll be sad if it isn't as tight as it can possibly be
5. if it hasn't been cleaned recently, take off the mouthpiece and blow through it.... make sure you can blow air through it. especially if the coil is cut down it's easy for some melty wax to get up in there and clog the mouthpiece so you sound like you're pulling but you're not actually pulling

performance should be expected to degrade after running a couple g's through it.... that's a lot of wax, don't you know! its gonna get dirty no matter what!~

that said i would probably think you just need to get more used to the sr71 quirks? i have been using it for months without any serious leaks (the only time i actually got a bad leak i was overheating it way way way too much and the oil just started dripping out haha), i haven't had a case of bad flavor or unhittability in a long ass time

i don't use a packing peanut or anything like that. i draw until its totally cool to the touch after i'm done and leave it on its side. i really don't know what to say about your shatter leaking out except that you might be overloading it?

if you can't differentiate between hitting a fresh load and hitting from the reserves in the oil coil just by hitting it and feeling the vapor, i would say get more acquainted with running the oil coil super dry until there's no hits left ;) i personally was surprised by how long it can keep going.

if you put fresh stuff in and you hit it until it starts hitting, and you load it again, yeah you'll run into leaks... i've actually found if you load it and wait for it to stop hitting, cool it down to room temp, swap out for some fresh batteries, keep going, and you'll keep getting great hits for a long time. i guess i would just bet that you might be loading more than you really need to?

Great post! This mirrors my experience pretty closely. As far as #4 above, I also use pliers to secure the heating rod. I hold the collar with the pliers in my left hand and with my right hand I screw the upper body into the collar. When I do this I seem to hit a hard stop probably because I've reached the thread limit. I do this with both my SR71s and so far I have not had the rod move, no shorts and no crushed heating rods (not responsible for crushed heating rods! ;)).

As far as #1, I am lucky to have an Iris top that I use to check the resistance before each use. I have found that because of the flaky connection in the bottom insulator piece that I need to constantly adjust the center pin screws in the bottom insulator to get minimum resistance when it is attached to the Persei. If your SR71 performance seems to vary this bottom insulator would be a prime suspect. @THC SCIENTIFIC please, please, please put some priority on the Iris v2 (as well as a better bottom insulator piece). This feature to me is just as valuable as the variable voltage. It would easily help the user avoid opens and shorts in the cartridge. I ordered my v1 Iris over a year ago so an update is long overdue.

Hedo
 

Caligula

Maximus
I need to say that I've never preheated my nut with a torch or used pliers to tighten my rod down (none of that sounds appealing BTW;) ). Ive only used a Tshirt between my fingers and the nut to increase grip. And I'm not anywhere near being a big dude.

Also my retaining nut sits crooked when tight just like the one above. I think it's normal.

Lastly, going to vote for overloading the Hercules as the main reason for SlideOrDie's leaking. Doesn't matter how you hit it, it'll leak if you overload the coil.
 

Sleepin in CA

Higher than a Pterodactyl, you can call me Caveman
Accessory Maker
@exit

Thanks for the advice, I'll follow that when I put everything back together.

@Sleepin in CA

Here's a couple pics of what I'm trying to describe... Maybe I'm just seeing things :/

photo23_zps5069b0e5.jpg
photo13_zps923b65bf.jpg


EDIT - UPDATE: Wow... Ok, so finally some good news...

Totally forgot that I was sent a replacement bottom connector a ways back, which luckily still had an extra couple PTFE bushings in it! That being said, if my order hasn't shipped yet, I will no longer require the replacements Naomi had ever so kindly added to my order. I can't wait to get back up and running!

Here's an updated pic of the entire assembly once together minus the bottom threaded portion of the cart to make sure I've got it assembled correctly.

photo1_zpsf71ea087.jpg


It's time for some rest, will continue tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks again guys for all the assistance!

Looks good to me. I would avoid pliers on the nut, I've never used them and never had an issue. I just use a rag for grip. Just load a bit less, maybe .3 in coil and .2 to prime. Try that and see how it goes.
 

Bleed4Me

I LURK
@exit

Thanks for the advice, I'll follow that when I put everything back together.

@Sleepin in CA

Here's a couple pics of what I'm trying to describe... Maybe I'm just seeing things :/

photo23_zps5069b0e5.jpg
photo13_zps923b65bf.jpg


EDIT - UPDATE: Wow... Ok, so finally some good news...

Totally forgot that I was sent a replacement bottom connector a ways back, which luckily still had an extra couple PTFE bushings in it! That being said, if my order hasn't shipped yet, I will no longer require the replacements Naomi had ever so kindly added to my order. I can't wait to get back up and running!

Here's an updated pic of the entire assembly once together minus the bottom threaded portion of the cart to make sure I've got it assembled correctly.

photo1_zpsf71ea087.jpg


It's time for some rest, will continue tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks again guys for all the assistance!

Just a thought, the ceramic rod looks like it is maybe too far in the retaining sleeve. I know i have pinched mine retaining sleeve with my fingers to get the rod to not seat itself so far in the sleeve. Just a thought. I did read on here where someone broke one of the "fingers" on that sleeve so be careful if/when you do it. Also, if the cart has leaked, you may want to clean that sleeve and the bottom of the rod because it will slide if it's not clean, obviously.

Great post! This mirrors my experience pretty closely. As far as #4 above, I also use pliers to secure the heating rod. I hold the collar with the pliers in my left hand and with my right hand I screw the upper body into the collar. When I do this I seem to hit a hard stop probably because I've reached the thread limit. I do this with both my SR71s and so far I have not had the rod move, no shorts and no crushed heating rods (not responsible for crushed heating rods! ;)).

As far as #1, I am lucky to have an Iris top that I use to check the resistance before each use. I have found that because of the flaky connection in the bottom insulator piece that I need to constantly adjust the center pin screws in the bottom insulator to get minimum resistance when it is attached to the Persei. If your SR71 performance seems to vary this bottom insulator would be a prime suspect. @THC SCIENTIFIC please, please, please put some priority on the Iris v2 (as well as a better bottom insulator piece). This feature to me is just as valuable as the variable voltage. It would easily help the user avoid opens and shorts in the cartridge. I ordered my v1 Iris over a year ago so an update is long overdue.

Hedo

Hey @Hedonismbot, Do you think that the bottom insulator may be causing the shorts? I'm not as versed as you all in the ohm/voltage department, but if you guys think it's the bottom insulator, I would be happy to run my Herc without that insulator and sleeve for a while. If it's a possibility that is what is the culprit, maybe it can slow the amount of tickets that @THC SCIENTIFIC has to work and give them some time to breathe and take a look. Just a thought...


@SlideOrDie I was just re-reading your post. 7 grams in a couple days!! DAYUM!!! You, my friend, are a BEAST!!!
 

Hedonismbot

Well-Known Member
Hey @Hedonismbot, Do you think that the bottom insulator may be causing the shorts? I'm not as versed as you all in the ohm/voltage department, but if you guys think it's the bottom insulator, I would be happy to run my Herc without that insulator and sleeve for a while. If it's a possibility that is what is the culprit, maybe it can slow the amount of tickets that @THC SCIENTIFIC has to work and give them some time to breathe and take a look. Just a thought...

I don't see how the bottom insulator would cause a short. The problem with the bottom insulator design is that the 2 screws that form the center pin when screwed all the way together are often a bit too short to make a reliable connection between the SR71 center pin and the center pin on your top. A loose connection here can increase the resistance of the connection all the way to a complete open circuit (no heat). The temporary fix is to unscrew these bottom insulator screws a bit to lengthen the center pin which ensures a solid electrical connection. These screws should be checked periodically since I've noticed that they tend to screw themselves back together again over time. I know that G is working on a fix for this.

Shorts are different problem. I haven't had any in my Hercs but I understand they are usually caused by a loose heating rod moving until the tungsten tip causes a short between the center pin and the Herc body.

Hope this helps.

Hedo
 

Bleed4Me

I LURK
I don't see how the bottom insulator would cause a short. The problem with the bottom insulator design is that the 2 screws that form the center pin when screwed all the way together are often a bit too short to make a reliable connection between the SR71 center pin and the center pin on your top. A loose connection here can increase the resistance of the connection all the way to a complete open circuit (no heat). The temporary fix is to unscrew these bottom insulator screws a bit to lengthen the center pin which ensures a solid electrical connection. These screws should be checked periodically since I've noticed that they tend to screw themselves back together again over time. I know that G is working on a fix for this.

Shorts are different problem. I haven't had any in my Hercs but I understand they are usually caused by a loose heating rod moving until the tungsten tip causes a short between the center pin and the Herc body.

Hope this helps.

Hedo

Ok. I tried to fish through the pages to see what the bottom insulator issue was but after looking at it long enough I kind of figured that if the cart would fire without the insulator, the post was just too short. Thanks for the info!
:tup:
 
Bleed4Me,

Sleepin in CA

Higher than a Pterodactyl, you can call me Caveman
Accessory Maker
Ok. I tried to fish through the pages to see what the bottom insulator issue was but after looking at it long enough I kind of figured that if the cart would fire without the insulator, the post was just too short. Thanks for the info!
:tup:
Gently screw the bottom insulator screws together until they spin freely, then unscrew 1/4 turn. Works EVERY time. =)

* may have misunderstood what you were looking for, but maybe the above will help.
 

nao12000

W9 Tech Rep
Company Rep
G is out of the office this morning. I have spoken to the USPS all morning apparently when the driver takes packages they process at their discretion vs when we drop them off they are scanned and began moving immediately!
Also I was informed that they are in heavy season so expect delays.
I have been able to locate everyones package that calls in so uf in doubt call in !

If you want faster delivery we can also ship UPS/Fedex.

Naomi
 
Top Bottom