VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use
- Thread starter Pipes
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- dynavap induction heat vapcap
Thank you I really appreciate the clarification
That is how it done. We can also add the @Pipes to get his attention in conversationsIts like saying "Customer on post #3550!"
LOL it's all good, he sent me a PM reply I just wasn't aware if I sent it properly and wanted to make sure
Link to legacy FC thread
The following is the initial post from the original FC site posted on Nov 23rd 2016. Posting here for preservation and continued discussions.
Hey Guys. This is for those who have wondered about the plausibility of using induction for their VapCap. The answer is, yes it works excellent. Surprised me as there seems to hardly have enough mass, but it seems not an issue at all.
I used the cheapest induction heater I could find. Driving it with a power supply I have is left over from when I was making the Solo PA. Still have a dozen or so of these pups. The problem is he only sells in lots of 20. But I suspect this one will work just as well. Haven't visited in a while so might find better deals out there. A key point to watch for is what happens when the max current draw is met. The supply I'm using turns into a constant current supply when 5 amps is reached and starts to lower voltages to maintain 60 watts. This works out in our benefit in this application.
The adjustment for heat transfer is actually physically widening or narrowing the spaces in the driver coil.
If the coil is pushed such that the winding is close together, the unit draws 6-7 amps when the VC is inserted and clicks in 2 seconds. I spaced out the coil such that it draws 5 amps and takes 5 seconds to set off the click in the VC.
Here is the "working concept" mock-up:
![[IMG]](/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi1261.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii600%2Fpipes59%2FDYI%2520%2520Atomizers%2FBulli%2520TC%2520Mod%2FGlass%2520Version%2520Project%2F20161123_191649-1_zpshmtihqc4.jpg&hash=1a101aa74e0fdcd07094d946e16de965 "[IMG]")
From here is just a matter of a switch and cosmetics. I think a FET switch would be the best route. To trigger the switch a couple low power tensile switches in parallel. One accessible by the external press and the other pressed with the insertion of the VC. And with a circuit similar to the above link, an off time delay variable resistor could be installed for heat timing. Maybe set to turn off shortly after the click sounds..?
I envision this as a two-piece device. Home power supply detachable and a standard car accessory plug to take its place. Could Velcro it to either the home supply or dashboard.
Enjoy!!!
&
Thoughts?
Modnote: FAQ for Pipes' IH heaters can be found here: FAQ-VC Induction Heater
The following is the initial post from the original FC site posted on Nov 23rd 2016. Posting here for preservation and continued discussions.
Hey Guys. This is for those who have wondered about the plausibility of using induction for their VapCap. The answer is, yes it works excellent. Surprised me as there seems to hardly have enough mass, but it seems not an issue at all.
I used the cheapest induction heater I could find. Driving it with a power supply I have is left over from when I was making the Solo PA. Still have a dozen or so of these pups. The problem is he only sells in lots of 20. But I suspect this one will work just as well. Haven't visited in a while so might find better deals out there. A key point to watch for is what happens when the max current draw is met. The supply I'm using turns into a constant current supply when 5 amps is reached and starts to lower voltages to maintain 60 watts. This works out in our benefit in this application.
The adjustment for heat transfer is actually physically widening or narrowing the spaces in the driver coil.
If the coil is pushed such that the winding is close together, the unit draws 6-7 amps when the VC is inserted and clicks in 2 seconds. I spaced out the coil such that it draws 5 amps and takes 5 seconds to set off the click in the VC.
Here is the "working concept" mock-up:
From here is just a matter of a switch and cosmetics. I think a FET switch would be the best route. To trigger the switch a couple low power tensile switches in parallel. One accessible by the external press and the other pressed with the insertion of the VC. And with a circuit similar to the above link, an off time delay variable resistor could be installed for heat timing. Maybe set to turn off shortly after the click sounds..?
I envision this as a two-piece device. Home power supply detachable and a standard car accessory plug to take its place. Could Velcro it to either the home supply or dashboard.
Enjoy!!!
&
Thoughts?
Modnote: FAQ for Pipes' IH heaters can be found here: FAQ-VC Induction Heater
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey guys, just letting everyone know that moving forward I would like to get PMs through the new FC forum. I restarted this thread there as this old FC site may close before long and do not want to lose all history.
@Mono Loco and anyone else, feel free to c/p posts from this FC forum to the new FC forum to help preserve pertinent info. This would be much appreciated.
It's not ideal to transfer the information this way but we have no choice as the site owner, who has gone MIA, of this site, has not given our beloved moderators here the permissions to do such actions. The new site is owned by current moderators and will not have these troubles in the future.
Thanks for your understanding and please do not start a huge convo over this as been announced elsewhere.
New site: FCombustion.com (More spam friendly with losing the fuck)
@Mono Loco and anyone else, feel free to c/p posts from this FC forum to the new FC forum to help preserve pertinent info. This would be much appreciated.
It's not ideal to transfer the information this way but we have no choice as the site owner, who has gone MIA, of this site, has not given our beloved moderators here the permissions to do such actions. The new site is owned by current moderators and will not have these troubles in the future.
Thanks for your understanding and please do not start a huge convo over this as been announced elsewhere.
New site: FCombustion.com (More spam friendly with losing the fuck)
The Stray Fox
Separated from the group
Floatingrivethead
Member
I've been using a Pipes Jarhead IH for over a year now and I love it. If it ever dies of old age I will be buying another of his heaters. Can't go wrong with his products. 
BabyFacedFinster
Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
This thread is now closed. For an explanation why, please read http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/important-announcement.49260/.
Please try its successor at https://newfuckcombustion.com/index...eater-for-desktop-and-in-car-use.77/#post-498. Thanks for the contributions and I hope you enjoy the new home.
Please try its successor at https://newfuckcombustion.com/index...eater-for-desktop-and-in-car-use.77/#post-498. Thanks for the contributions and I hope you enjoy the new home.
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
I am excitedly awaiting my PSM email, and hope to have it soon to accompany the JarHead I have had for some time.
I have not been as effective at moving folks to vaping from combusting with the Vapcap alone as I would have thought, given how much I love them. In combination with an IH I imagine the success rate would go up quite a bit.
I have not been as effective at moving folks to vaping from combusting with the Vapcap alone as I would have thought, given how much I love them. In combination with an IH I imagine the success rate would go up quite a bit.
endof3d
Cognitive Dissonance D4 ++++
If you're new to this forum and would like more information about @Pipes current IH offerings including photos, specs and prices the link below will take you to a Google Doc with all of the above.
FAQ-VC Induction Heater
FAQ-VC Induction Heater
NYC_Frank
"A man with no vices is a man with no virtues"
Just following up on a topic suggested by @Pipes to try to extend the time to click by lengthening the DC power cable a bit thereby lowering the voltage.
Well @TommyDee I tried the 5 foot 18AWG extension cable but it only managed to extend the time to click from 4 sec to 5.
I'm fine with the quick time to click though as I was worried that it would be too hot. I've found that although you do have to be a bit more conscious of respecting the click the heating provided by the Caldron is so evenly distributed that a bit of a stir after two or three pulls provides the optimal DV experience and extends the number of hits over the torch approach.
Did I say I'm in love my Caldron yet ... thanks @Pipes
@Pipes 4/24 legacy FC Comments:
To lower the heat, it's better to lower the voltage or insertion depth rather than trying to play with the output current rating. What you are actually doing is trying to use the voltage drop which happens as you approach the supplies upper current limit.
The 5 amp supply is weaker because we are sitting near the upper current rating and the supply is actually dropping it's voltage down. Now supplies have different ways they act as approaching the upper limit. Some are absolute and cut out at there rated limit. Whereas, others will go past there limit briefly without problem as well as lower the voltage to maintain their rated "power" like 60 watts. Which is what the old 5 amp unit is.
Once a supplies rated current is passed what the device needs, a higher rating doesn't affect anything. Just un-used supplies power capability.
I suggest using a spacer from either cork or a piece cut from a silicone oven mitt. A 12mm circle is what is needed. The higher you go the slower to click. However, if you go too high, you will encounter uneven heating.
Now @TommyDee will lean towards lowering the voltage. Actually, the easiest way for this is to introduce a little load in series by adding a DC extender cable in the mix. A 4-foot AWG 20 length extension cable to extend the DC cord with 5.5x2.1mm connectors would suffice I bet.
Well @TommyDee I tried the 5 foot 18AWG extension cable but it only managed to extend the time to click from 4 sec to 5.
I'm fine with the quick time to click though as I was worried that it would be too hot. I've found that although you do have to be a bit more conscious of respecting the click the heating provided by the Caldron is so evenly distributed that a bit of a stir after two or three pulls provides the optimal DV experience and extends the number of hits over the torch approach.
Did I say I'm in love my Caldron yet ... thanks @Pipes
@Pipes 4/24 legacy FC Comments:
To lower the heat, it's better to lower the voltage or insertion depth rather than trying to play with the output current rating. What you are actually doing is trying to use the voltage drop which happens as you approach the supplies upper current limit.
The 5 amp supply is weaker because we are sitting near the upper current rating and the supply is actually dropping it's voltage down. Now supplies have different ways they act as approaching the upper limit. Some are absolute and cut out at there rated limit. Whereas, others will go past there limit briefly without problem as well as lower the voltage to maintain their rated "power" like 60 watts. Which is what the old 5 amp unit is.
Once a supplies rated current is passed what the device needs, a higher rating doesn't affect anything. Just un-used supplies power capability.
I suggest using a spacer from either cork or a piece cut from a silicone oven mitt. A 12mm circle is what is needed. The higher you go the slower to click. However, if you go too high, you will encounter uneven heating.
Now @TommyDee will lean towards lowering the voltage. Actually, the easiest way for this is to introduce a little load in series by adding a DC extender cable in the mix. A 4-foot AWG 20 length extension cable to extend the DC cord with 5.5x2.1mm connectors would suffice I bet.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
20% change in power levels. Not bad but not enough. :cautious: If it works it works through! Happy fluxing the VC @NYC_Frank !
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Another DIY Lives! "4 of 10" ...of 4 is viable. Added a 9T dense 12 gauge winding. Pretty 'hot' little unit. 75 watts firing range and popping off at around 5-6 seconds. And that's with some serious losses. Seems the coil runs cooler when the VC is inserted. Freewheeling it get warmer that the stock coil. I've changed it by about 10% less wire length for the coil. The freewheeling current runs around 20 watts.
On a variable supply, I get to 11 volts and the brick quits at around 78 watts. Now I need to do the 11 turn coil. This one is a little too much draw at 3s peek potential.
On a variable supply, I get to 11 volts and the brick quits at around 78 watts. Now I need to do the 11 turn coil. This one is a little too much draw at 3s peek potential.
LabPong
Well-Known Member
I'm fine with the quick time to click though as I was worried that it would be too hot. I've found that although you do have to be a bit more conscious of respecting the click the heating provided by the Caldron is so evenly distributed that a bit of a stir after two or three pulls provides the optimal DV experience and extends the number of hits over the torch approach.
Did I say I'm in love my Caldron yet ... thanks @Pipes
At first when I got my Caldron (few weeks ago) I was worried as my Ti tip clicked at 2-3 seconds on first cold heating. With my 2 older Pipes IH's....this was radically different. My skeletor and jarhead click about 9 seconds......so I was taken back a bit and had to reassess how I use the Caldron.
Well, that worry went away after a few days of using a few different vapcap setups in it....I found my low temp caps to handle the fast heat up much better. As usual now....I find the low temp caps to be superior all around compared to the regular caps.
I want another Caldron to add to my collection! haaaaa Thanks for this Pipes....as usual......the original and still best (to me) !
Dip & Sip is living dangerouslyI admit it, I am addicted
(sorry for the wall of ?'s)
I have wondered why people want to get hits like this?
Do you normally like smaller size hits but several in a minute?
Dont you like getting a big ol banger hit like the vapcap can deliver?
Or is it just that you have consistency issues with normal heating you do?
Just trying to figure out what people like about using the vapcap like that.....also what tip and cap combo do people use this technique with? I am guessing many that do this technique....have SS tips?
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
I think some folk just want to get through a bowl faster, without pausing for the cool down click and restarting. If you are after the quickest buzz you can get from a VC, this is the way to do it. I haven't spent a lot of time trying to get this method down because when I am looking for the fastest buzz I tend to use a different vape.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
@LabPong - two separate instances. One, I'm not for wimpy draws. I need to 'feel' a draw in my lungs. Different types of flower will deliver different levels of 'bite'. One of my favorite strains is a light fluffy bud. It delivers nice light fluffy hits. I don't like nice fluffy hits. So I change the nature of the VapCap to turn it into a flame-furnace baking the bread in a 1/10th the time. Now I taste the fullness, I feel it, and it delivers results in spades. Difference? 1-hour session vs. a 2 minute med session. I still have 5 full tips to go.
Second reason of course because I can. If I end up with a particularly dank Blue Dream, it'll hurt me. Maybe two draws are required in that case. But a dense pack of fine grind fluffy stuff - yea, one good hard long draw and it'll make your eyes spin. This is as close to a bong and combustion I've gotten on any of the 2 vapes I have, VC and LB. This isn't dip&sip, this is pure on-demand release of goodness for as long as there is vape. "riding the IH" is something that still needs a bit of refinement. The Caldron is best poised to do that today if not the Apollo 2.
What first hit me with the VC is the lack of heat mass. That hot wet pouring of vape for what seems only a second or two is woefully insufficient. You can't make up for that by taking another woefully insufficient draw. This is my nature. I want the full Monty!
Mind you, this is my constitution with regard to vaping. I was a very heavy user of combustion. I seem to have balanced out the two in overall usage. My total consumption is the same today as it was before vaping. My medical conditions are still managed. My overall state of health from vaping compared to combustion - night and day!
Second reason of course because I can. If I end up with a particularly dank Blue Dream, it'll hurt me. Maybe two draws are required in that case. But a dense pack of fine grind fluffy stuff - yea, one good hard long draw and it'll make your eyes spin. This is as close to a bong and combustion I've gotten on any of the 2 vapes I have, VC and LB. This isn't dip&sip, this is pure on-demand release of goodness for as long as there is vape. "riding the IH" is something that still needs a bit of refinement. The Caldron is best poised to do that today if not the Apollo 2.
What first hit me with the VC is the lack of heat mass. That hot wet pouring of vape for what seems only a second or two is woefully insufficient. You can't make up for that by taking another woefully insufficient draw. This is my nature. I want the full Monty!
Mind you, this is my constitution with regard to vaping. I was a very heavy user of combustion. I seem to have balanced out the two in overall usage. My total consumption is the same today as it was before vaping. My medical conditions are still managed. My overall state of health from vaping compared to combustion - night and day!