https://www.thickassglass.com/colle...ffuser-65x5mm-18mm-female?variant=26077990992
'can' might be a bit big, but its got the height and the low water level that I think might work for me.
Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer
- Thread starter natural farmer
- Start date
https://www.thickassglass.com/colle...ffuser-65x5mm-18mm-female?variant=26077990992
'can' might be a bit big, but its got the height and the low water level that I think might work for me.
dontmindme
Active Member
Maybe a carb cap that you can spin to air resistance on demand is something to look into.
It'd just be two conflicting wavey lines slightly spun to maximum resistance with the least movement required or the...
Maybe a locking nut below to hold it from unraveling and offering the spectrum of flow errorless.
Just a thought.
Dragging the heat down to the bowl where its conductive due to resistive air flow should atleast be explored.
It'd just be two conflicting wavey lines slightly spun to maximum resistance with the least movement required or the...
Maybe a locking nut below to hold it from unraveling and offering the spectrum of flow errorless.
Just a thought.
Dragging the heat down to the bowl where its conductive due to resistive air flow should atleast be explored.
ohmygodimsohigh
Well-Known Member
What kind of routine maintenance are you guys doing on your SIC dishes?
Has anyone had any issues with breaks, chips, stains, other?
With the coil at 666, I've just been q-tipping - but I know that q-tipping wouldn't be enough at the same temp on a quartz banger.
Has anyone had any issues with breaks, chips, stains, other?
With the coil at 666, I've just been q-tipping - but I know that q-tipping wouldn't be enough at the same temp on a quartz banger.
buddingglasshead
Well-Known Member
When I'm done for the night I'll do an iso qtip after my last hit. They're 10 bucks so I'm not too worried about replacing them. If you really want to do some maintenance on them, I'd suggest soaking it in Dark Crystal Glass cleaner. I haven't personally used it but I've seen it's results and definitely plan on getting some myself.
johnny1976
New Member
Hi guys,
A few questions. I just got an e-nail with a 16mm coil, and I notice NewVape still sells the 16mm Flowerpot combo. If I buy it, is there any difference in performance between the 16mm and the 20mm Flowerpot?
Also, since I am going to be buying all the parts tomorrow, is NewVape shipping the updated adjustbowls?
Thanks
A few questions. I just got an e-nail with a 16mm coil, and I notice NewVape still sells the 16mm Flowerpot combo. If I buy it, is there any difference in performance between the 16mm and the 20mm Flowerpot?
Also, since I am going to be buying all the parts tomorrow, is NewVape shipping the updated adjustbowls?
Thanks
Not if you're buying an OGFP, shouldnt make any difference.
I thought my SHFP glass search was over, and then CCG post this on you tube -
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Thanks bro, it's cool...just like all the other convection vapes we have used, this is no different - it simply stresses my lungs too much over time due to the amount of hot air that is required. This happened the last time I borrowed your Sublimator after a few weeks.
Does anyone know how to remove the grey/black ti oxidation rings on my glass? ISO isn't doing the trick, and I don't have any PBW at the moment. Both the regular and stubby bowls have caused this.... never seen it before in my life, not with the Sublimator anyway. I didn't really care before, but now that i'm moving on it would be nice to have clean glass again.
just_the_flu
they say im crazy but i have a good time
... i've been using iso and a qtip when i clean my glass- it's been working for me.. i may do this every other day ish... hope you find a solution bro!
THIS.
This is what I have vaguely considered is part of what might be happening with my own up n down lung issues, and could be the root of my search for my perfect temps in air flow.
I honestly think I've cracked it with a 6 hole carb cap. No restriction, but all the benefits of what I was finding with the previous capping adventures.
Now I've been at 640 and getting the darkest ABV I can push it too without a risk of combustion, used coffee ground colour with only a slightly diminished taste, complete extraction in one go.
635f is almost full extraction in one go with no loss of taste.
I'm quite shocked tbh. And obviously very high.
We can make TI dishes with larger ID's of course but have no control over SIC or Quartz so we are limited to that size. In order to accommodate the Quartz, Ti and SIC dishes whose inner diameter must remain as is, we're deep inside the vapelab looking at many options!
Danksta
Well-Known Member
Yep, its this same approach but choosing a different parameter or two to focus on changing that means I can stay at the same temp on the controller and still achieve multiple results (one hit and done, full loads, small loads, or multiple hits instead).
The simplicity of design (and the size) is one thing I love about the FP, that the simplicity leads to having ultimate control over all parameters is what makes it a fucking work of genius in my eyes.
Yep, month 5 of the honeymoon period still on going
EDIT: I think this is going to be my next glass/FP pairing. Possibly the closest I've found so far to what I'm looking for...
I noticed this one after I just got my new TAG rig and thought it would be even better. It uses the same donut perc which I really like and the can is nice and empty unlike the Fab version I got.
That new CCG SOL thick piece looks like it would be great too.
Both are quality China rigs. I am in LOVE with my new TAG. Feels so high quality.
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I noticed this one after I just got my new TAG rig and thought it would be even better. It uses the same donut perc which I really like and the can is nice an empty unlike the Fab version I got.
That new CCG SOL thick piece looks like it would be great too.
Both are quality China rigs. I am in LOVE with my new TAG. Feels so high quality.
Yeah, the TAG I prefer in the pictures, the glass does indeed look nice n thick
Is there video of your TAG piece in FP action?
btka
Well-Known Member
as far as I understand they mean the holes in the showerhead are to big or too much and there is toomless airflow restriction... which maybe delutes the vapor (vapor to air ratio)...
@lazylathe @NewVape420 @NewVape710 I am interessted what the effect would be if the holes in the sh would not go straight down but in a spiral shape, so to say the cold air have to travel for a longer while trough the hot showerhead (spiral holes), also this could maybe create also a vortex of hot air in the bowl... I would like to test this out... do not know if technicaly possible...
Personally, I dont think the SH can dilute vapour unless one is overdoing it on the inhale.
Danksta
Well-Known Member
Yeah, the TAG I prefer in the pictures, the glass does indeed look nice n thick
Is there video of your TAG piece in FP action?
VERY thick. I like this rig as much as my American made glass (don't let the blowers find out
).I have not seen a function video. I will play around with my monitor cam and see if I can create one.
muunch
hotboxing the cockpit
If there was a mesh screen or something added, so that the spinning particulate didn't go back up into the holes, this would probably work if it could be machined. I don't know if it'd be worth it though.
Kinda agree. Leaving the head on the bowl for a little before starting your draw will increase conduction. If you can't get a hit you like otherwise, it's worth trying that I guess. Personally I find it easier just to slow my draw and/or drop the carbcap on if I feel like I should be getting more.
There's definitely a lot of 'regular' air breathed in, but I feel like that helps. It makes sure I breathe deep while hitting it to actually get the actives into my lungs while I'm still hitting it (if that makes sense)
Getting as big of a hit as 0.1g gives me from the SH with minimal air would probably choke me out. I rarely cough with my FP and that's one of the things I like about it. I get massive dab-sweat inducing, face-numbing hits from flowers, but don't have to cough out a lung in the process.
btka
Well-Known Member
I do not have problems regarding this, I am slowing down my draw speed or use higher temps... and as far as i understood you use the cap to restrict the air flowing trough the sh... but as far as i understand @lazylathe and @biohacker are meaning this... (I know biohacker is used to grasshopper and I understand what he is meaning... at least I think so... but it is hard to describe)
but spiral holes vs straight holes would be interessent if possible... In my opinion this is aöso how the grasshopper heating element works and is so small...
Btw I am very happy with the shfp this is not a complaint... and recommend it totaly, it is now my daily driver...
muunch
hotboxing the cockpit
Yeah, I think I spoke too soon
No worries - most of my rant was just trying to rationalize how others are having a less-than-ideal experience, not detracting from your opinions.
My only complaint after 4months is that I'm still using a little bit more herb than I'd like because it tastes so nice and is so fun to use.
Likes2vape
Well-Known Member
Every couple days I will take a spray bottle with water in it and spray three squirts in the SiC dish and qtip out the water. It takes 3 squirts before you actually have water in the dish to qtip out. I leave my controller set to 666 and squirt the water in with the dish hot and coil cover on. It comes out looking good as new. Works great on the showerhead as well.
Baron23
Well-Known Member
Hi NV fans and @NewVape420 -
As I said, I received my revised Pan Head stems from NV, an unsolicited but appreciated initiative by NV, and I tried to fit them together. The 14 mm fit in my bowl pretty good. Tight (which we wanted, yeah?) but good. The 18 mm stem would not go in and it was very clear by looking in the threaded hole for the handle that there was just a very small burr, probably from the tapping the threads.
In any case, a bit of work with the supplied emery cloth and the 18 fits perfectly. I can't suck a thing through it if blocked on one end. Sadly, my 14 mm is now a bit lose (well, not lose but just a tad loser than the 18 mm). I did the emery cloth by hand using the handle of a small screw driver so its not much taken off, but enough to make a slight difference. I may have overdone it a bit for the 14 mm, but its perfect fit for the 18 mm.
@NewVape420 - do you plan to continue to ship emery paper with stems? I would suggest that bowl and stem(s) be fitted at your plant prior to shipping, but of course people may order bowls and stems separately. I have no good suggestion but the tolerances are so tight now that interchangeability of parts becomes a bit more critical.
Now, I put them on glass to test the air tightness. 18 mm, I would asphixiate if I stayed on the piece trying to draw air. Not even a tiny a bit. I then put it on my C2 stemless can which has a machine made glass joint. Again, perfect.
My issue (not NV's certainly) is that I don't really have a good candidate for a 14 mm rig to use with the Pan. I tend to use my FC-188 (14 mm stevenlmz79 knockoff of a Mobius dewar style) a lot for herb but the joint is just too far down in the dewar and if I put the stem in there, there just isn't enough protruding to get the bowl to sit properly. My two other 14 mm female glass pieces are a bit heady with hand made joints that just are not going to seal against a Ti bearing surface. This is not NV's issue, but if I want to use the 14 mm, I think I will have to find another piece to use as I just don't want to use all of the drop downs and adapters, all with various quality of the joints, and all of which can potentially effect the air tight seal.
I plan to give the 18 mm a go tonight, I'm sure it will work just fine. One thing I need to keep in mind with the PH is the greater bowl depth does call for a bit higher temperature to yeild the same results. I have settled on 620-625 for my OG SH but and going to work my way up to about 710 (as shown in NV's latest vid) and see if I can find the sweet temp for the bigger bowl.
Hope everybody had a wonderful thanksgiving (well, at least those who live in a country where a "feast until you pass out from tryptophan" happens once a year! LOL My GH is a pro at ordering carry out (serious, she's good LOL) but doesn't cook much at all. So I was queued up for cooking the turkey, gravy, stuffing for 12 BIG eaters at the GF's house. We will have to do this again soon....like maybe in another decade! hahaha
Cheers
P.S. - I carb cap all my loads....just like it that way.
As I said, I received my revised Pan Head stems from NV, an unsolicited but appreciated initiative by NV, and I tried to fit them together. The 14 mm fit in my bowl pretty good. Tight (which we wanted, yeah?) but good. The 18 mm stem would not go in and it was very clear by looking in the threaded hole for the handle that there was just a very small burr, probably from the tapping the threads.
In any case, a bit of work with the supplied emery cloth and the 18 fits perfectly. I can't suck a thing through it if blocked on one end. Sadly, my 14 mm is now a bit lose (well, not lose but just a tad loser than the 18 mm). I did the emery cloth by hand using the handle of a small screw driver so its not much taken off, but enough to make a slight difference. I may have overdone it a bit for the 14 mm, but its perfect fit for the 18 mm.
@NewVape420 - do you plan to continue to ship emery paper with stems? I would suggest that bowl and stem(s) be fitted at your plant prior to shipping, but of course people may order bowls and stems separately. I have no good suggestion but the tolerances are so tight now that interchangeability of parts becomes a bit more critical.
Now, I put them on glass to test the air tightness. 18 mm, I would asphixiate if I stayed on the piece trying to draw air. Not even a tiny a bit. I then put it on my C2 stemless can which has a machine made glass joint. Again, perfect.
My issue (not NV's certainly) is that I don't really have a good candidate for a 14 mm rig to use with the Pan. I tend to use my FC-188 (14 mm stevenlmz79 knockoff of a Mobius dewar style) a lot for herb but the joint is just too far down in the dewar and if I put the stem in there, there just isn't enough protruding to get the bowl to sit properly. My two other 14 mm female glass pieces are a bit heady with hand made joints that just are not going to seal against a Ti bearing surface. This is not NV's issue, but if I want to use the 14 mm, I think I will have to find another piece to use as I just don't want to use all of the drop downs and adapters, all with various quality of the joints, and all of which can potentially effect the air tight seal.
I plan to give the 18 mm a go tonight, I'm sure it will work just fine. One thing I need to keep in mind with the PH is the greater bowl depth does call for a bit higher temperature to yeild the same results. I have settled on 620-625 for my OG SH but and going to work my way up to about 710 (as shown in NV's latest vid) and see if I can find the sweet temp for the bigger bowl.
Hope everybody had a wonderful thanksgiving (well, at least those who live in a country where a "feast until you pass out from tryptophan" happens once a year! LOL My GH is a pro at ordering carry out (serious, she's good LOL) but doesn't cook much at all. So I was queued up for cooking the turkey, gravy, stuffing for 12 BIG eaters at the GF's house. We will have to do this again soon....like maybe in another decade! hahaha
Cheers
P.S. - I carb cap all my loads....just like it that way.
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That could be the reason, I never really thought it was a big deal and assumed it would come off easily, but after several weeks with just iso washes, it's on there GOOD now.
I have an incredible lung capacity and breathe control of a yogi... some of my draws are so slow that the perks barely even fire up! lol And I have a lot of experience with most convection desktops... as does Lazylathe... there is a reason we are saying that the SH is airy, and it's not due to poor technique.
This is what I resorted to doing...more on the radiation side than conduction IMO, and it did help somewhat.
Only problem is that air is hot, and causes irritation for me at upper temps. I want the LEAST amount of hot air delivering the most amount of actives. I have only been able to achieve this with the supreme v3. So again, the FP is an amazing vape, as are other awesome convection vapes (Glass Symphony, Herborizer, Herbalizer, e-nano, Vriptech, EVO, etc) but they just don't work for me unless the temp is moderate to low, but then i'm not satisfied with the effects and vapour output even though the taste is great. I also dislike hot spots, and yes even with the amazing SH, at the right temps (700+) hotspots have not been elusive in my experience with it.
Not for those that understand, like you. The GH does put out that super thick sv3 style vapour, so it's a good reference. The Mighty on the other hand, even though a hybrid vape, favours convection IMO and provides this airier "thinner" vapour.
No worries - most of my rant was just trying to rationalize how others are having a less-than-ideal experience, not detracting from your opinions.
My only complaint after 4months is that I'm still using a little bit more herb than I'd like because it tastes so nice and is so fun to use.
My experience with the FP has been awesome! One of the biggest reasons I purchased it was because I read that it was "like" an "electric supreme v3" or an incredible compliment. And although it is an incredible compliment, it certainly isn't like an electric supreme v3.
Sure I did use a lot of flower during my testing, but i'm still in disbelief how much my consumption has plummeted since switching back to the sv3. It's now noon, i've been up since 5am and i've only used .1g in my sv3. I would have EASILY blown through 10X that amount with the FP!
Maybe you missed where I took it back immediately. EDIT: That was meant for clarity, not being an ass
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