Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer

buddingglasshead

Well-Known Member
Flowerpot Adjust-A-Bowl Theory and Installation Explained


HOW HAS NO ONE COMMENTED ON THE STAND BEING USED!? :mental:

Carb cap location, up to triple FP on the same base thanks to the post now being offered separately... I have a mighty need!


I have been running the wraparound head with out the coil cover and I am getting way better dabs than with the coil cover. I think the coil cover brings the dish temp down significantly. Does anyone else notice this as well?

That's really interesting. Could it be because the temp sensor of the coil? What orientation is the coil? Have you tried it flipped around with the coil cover? Unfortunately I don't have any concentrate at the moment or I'd be more than happy to test myself. :brow:


side note edit:

The 14mm and 18mm posts are still in stock. Assume this isn't intentional since the top and pack are OOS.
 
Last edited:

biohacker

Well-Known Member
HOW HAS NO ONE COMMENTED ON THE STAND BEING USED!? :mental:

If you empty your bowl by tapping it against the circular debowler stand, you will cosmetically blemish it!

With that said, I don't care and still tap!

My SH has some oxidation/rust spots... pretty sure the result of dabbing? I've torched, but still visible on the outer rim of the top of the SH. Cosmetic so meh..?
 

Shooby

4ShOObY3 - IG
HOW HAS NO ONE COMMENTED ON THE STAND BEING USED!? :mental:

Carb cap location, up to triple FP on the same base thanks to the post now being offered separately... I have a mighty need!




That's really interesting. Could it be because the temp sensor of the coil? What orientation is the coil? Have you tried it flipped around with the coil cover? Unfortunately I don't have any concentrate at the moment or I'd be more than happy to test myself. :brow:


side note edit:

The 14mm and 18mm posts are still in stock. Assume this isn't intentional since the top and pack are OOS.


Your not alone. I peeped that and went to the website to see if it was like that but i wasnt. I def. liked the one he had.
 

Chicken #420

I and I be Irie Vaping with U and U in Zion, mon!
I guess when @NewVape710 wants a 'custom stand' he can just one off a custom piece for himself. Wowzers

:nod:

A few of us have done that... :D

dBs7Yz5.jpg


Regarding the double-weave Ti screen issue, I am watching this develop with great interest... as my most recent NewVape order included a few of those. My guess is that something went wrong with the order, and wasn't caught until a few had shipped. What ever is going on, we all know that NewVape will make it right, and we'll be happy with it in the end! :)
 

buddingglasshead

Well-Known Member
If you empty your bowl by tapping it against the circular debowler stand, you will cosmetically blemish it!

With that said, I don't care and still tap!

My SH has some oxidation/rust spots... pretty sure the result of dabbing? I've torched, but still visible on the outer rim of the top of the SH. Cosmetic so meh..?

I personally just have a little glass jar that I keep my ABV in a glass jar. My SH still hasn't even turned fully gold yet, but the coil cover is golden and purple in some areas. I'd rather have it stay looking brand new though! The only dab I've taken off the SH was some 99% CBD Isolate and q-tipped half way through. I'm not a fan of dabbing on Ti in any fashion..

I guess when @NewVape710 wants a 'custom stand' he can just one off a custom piece for himself.
That's powerful talent.

:nod:

I REALLY want one that can house three because that's where my set up is going in the near future. NVAS is a real issue. =/ I'm more than happy with everything that I have, but all these little improvements just sound so wonderful to someone who is next to the NV set up for a majority of the day. Working from home FTW!


A few of us have done that... :D

Regarding the double-weave Ti screen issue, I am watching this develop with great interest... as my most recent NewVape order included a few of those. My guess is that something went wrong with the order, and wasn't caught until a few had shipped. What ever is going on, we all know that NewVape will make it right, and we'll be happy with it all in the end! :)


Definitely. Don't mind to wait through because I'd rather use the double weave for the party bowl and keep it as clean as possible. I've ordered some degummed hemp wick as suggested by another user on here so I should be okay with the particulate issue very soon.
 

btka

Well-Known Member
In my experience... I do not like to use the showercap (and slower temps ...) I prefer higher temps (at time 710) and a slower draw... in my opinion if you cap the showerhead with showercap it only helps to slow down your drawing, at the end it is not important if you cap your showerhead with the showercap or slow down your drawing speed or or heat the bowl (preheating the bowl is increasing conduction so for example the fp is then a hybrid like crafty/mighty between conduction and convection)...if you do not preheat the bowl then its more convection (maybe nearly 100% convection)...

regarding showerhead with showercap (restricting airflow) vs without showercap and slow draw, I have to say not the temp of the nail is important, important is at the end the temp of the hot air travelling trough the herb/bowl... I bet you will get similar results (vapor density) by only slowing your draw... but @emmdeemo you could measure it with your temp sensor in the bowl use the showercap and then try it withiout the showercap and a slow draw the temp. of hot air which will go through bowl and herb will be the same... the showercap only restricts your airflow and mimics a slow draw... I find the showercap for flowers is totaly not needed and I do not use it with flowers it is to much of a hassle for me (multitasking).. I achieve the same results with slowing down my draw... and do not have to handle and coordinate the showercap..

what I want to say is what matters at the end is the temp. of stream of hot air which hits (travels trough) your herb... that is also the reason why the prefered temps of the coil (controller) are not important and differ greatly from fc member to fc member...

@biohacker @phattpiggie I am with biohacker the crafty is not nearly producing dense vapir as fp and grasshopper that is my personal experience also tastewise the fp and gh are a totaly in a different league .. h and fp taste much much better because of the crafty m6ghty is a (session) conduction convection hybride... that was also the point why I sold my crafty immidiately after receiving my gh (2 years ago)...
 
Last edited:

muunch

hotboxing the cockpit
Draw speed and water pieces (mostly draw speed, but waterpiece can be a bottleneck... see my eggsosphere for details) are the main modulators AFTER changing the PID temp (which is a rather ham-handed way to get results you want with how fun this thing is imo)

I really only use the showercap for flower when I feel like squeezing the last bit of vapor out of a bowl without turning the temps up. I like to try and stay solid temps for a session. Depends on time of day and how my chest/throat feels and how baked I wanna get.

I found getting one of those debowlers that empties right into a mason jar I posted a while back, and using 2 holder posts on the circular stand is my preferred setup.

The double weaves are gods work. I have had the errlectric ones for a while now and even with kannastor fine grind (I'm not sure you could go finer besides a coffee grinder tbh) I get absolutely 0 solid, plant particulate matter in my waterpieces now. Just water that gets opaque with the lipids/waxes(?) and fat, golden globs of reclaim.
 

btka

Well-Known Member
I hate to be the first on the thread to remove the Showerhead and return to my OGFP 16mm unit!
For me the SH has too much of a free flow for my liking and even with the Showercap i was having a hard time dealing with faster browning of the herb and just not the effects i was looking for.

I spent an entire week with the SH and went through so much material it was crazy.
Started low and went every where in between with not much success.
Also tried a dab and it was okay but not as great as my quartz bowl on the OG.
Flavor on my OG beats out the SH for some reason as well.

What i ended up doing was finding a stainless steel washer to block off the outer row of holes.
This seemed to reduce the air flow slightly and produced better results but it was a pain to set up and use and the results were not consistent enough.

I also much prefer the weight of the OGFP 16mm version as well as the SS LolliCap!

Full Disclaimer:
I only use the OGFP with my EQ basket mod as it allows the best micro hits i have ever had.
I do not like using the screen as it uses too much material and the hits are a bit more airy.
I have the OG set at 680F and it is so consistent every day!
For me, the simple OG is the best!
do you use the same temp. setting with ogfp and sh... if yes I would suggest to upper your temps. with the sh (using flowers)... so the temp. of stream of hot air hitting yournherb will be the same and maybe slowing down your draw... or one of this (higher temps. on controller or slowing down draw speed)...
 
btka,
  • Like
Reactions: Danksta

Square4Life

Well-Known Member
On the adjusta-bowl...what is actually creating a seal between the glass joint and the bowl? If you did like he showed in the video with the tape method...the bottom of the bowl isn't touching the joint. Therefore, does the sealing actually take place on top of the joint simply by the bowl resting on top of the joint?

If I am correct, I don't feel like this would create a very solid connection.

What if the top of the joint isn't level and smooth?
What if the joint wasn't parallel with the ground? The bowl would then be sitting at an angle in the water piece and then may not create a seal.

If gravity is essentially the only thing making the seal...it may not be for me. Hoping I'm wrong though.

EDIT: I hope this didn't come across as being negative...I'm just trying to ensure I understand how it works...
 
Last edited:

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
How well does the wrap-around perform uncarbed compared to the showerhead? Would it be easier to make SiC showerhead inserts, or expand the wraparound airflow closer to showerhead free-flow?
 
invertedisdead,

Baron23

Well-Known Member
I'm not familiar with final GA configuration?

We are making changes as we speak and intend on re sending each initial Alpha purchaser a new rev (per alpha rollout). The bowl remains .75 x .5 we are making adjustments for the range of sizes of 18mm rigs we've encountered.The intention is for the 18mm & 14mm inserts to be completely clear of the screen over a broad range of differently sized rigs. Once the replacment parts are completed and the alpha rollout is over we will establish rev-1 and reactivate the parts for sale. I'm not proud of my video production skills or my looks either. However I will sleep a little better knowing my customers fully understand the design intent.

Ah, GA = generally available and is an often used term for products that are ready for broad and unrestricted sale. I got it....the 'out of stock" indication is NV taking the bowl out of sales status until you finish your tweaks. Very cool....I will wait until I see the bowl back in stock and then order.

I'm not proud of my video production skills or my looks either.

Oh, brother....now I feel bad for bringing the topic up. First, the vid was done well enough and certainly explained a lot to us who were still curious and had questions. Second, I was just trying to have a little fun with you and I'm very sorry if I made you feel bad at all. Remember, its not how you feel, its how you look and you look maaaarvelous, darling. :tup::nod:
 

buddingglasshead

Well-Known Member
How well does the wrap-around perform uncarbed compared to the showerhead? Would it be easier to make SiC showerhead inserts, or expand the wraparound airflow closer to showerhead free-flow?


A bit too "lazy" to take pictures but just did some testing.


SH at 550 and SiC WA (both have coil cover) at 575 uncapped on a dual adapter with 14mm stubbies filled almost the top and patted down running through a single piece so YMMV

At first glance it looks like they did roughly the same but after emptying both the SH is the clear winner the browning on the top was the only similarity. Even just under that the SiC WA didn't manage the same distributed browning. I'd be happy to change my parameters and give another test or two if needed. :freak:

EDIT: Don't remember changing it after this post but a second look at my dual enail shows both set to 550. Let's just say it was effective regardless of results....
 
Last edited:

psychonaut

Company Rep
Company Rep
I did a session earlier with my dnail wrap-around setup, 700F uncapped seemed to me to be close performer as 670F on the SH. I did have to jostle the herb a bit but I got nice rips!

I also dropped temps down to 630F and tried a dab but it was still way too hot. I just finished a session at 590F carb capped, this time full nug, flipped it between each hit for 4 tasty hits then deboned it with my dab tool and got a dense hit to finish it off. I tried a dab on the halo at 590F and it still tasted too hot so I'm gonna dial it down and try with some fine ground herbs while carb capped.
 

biohacker

Well-Known Member
I'm not a fan of dabbing on Ti in any fashion..

Me neither, never again....so instead I found some rosin that is easy to work with (crumbly wax consistency) and tossed a tiny pellet on a bed of coarsely ground flower, and wham double deckers the way I LOVE 'em! I've gone up in temp recently trying to find that thick vape I long for, so am settling around 685 for now. Even with the faster draw, going above 700 just doesn't seem my thing, way too prone to error hot spotting.

The wife was doing the same thing, but at 570, and it was pretty cool because when she was completely done, I could still see the softened/melted rosin right in the middle of the flower bed. Upped to my temp, and still had an incredibly thick rip. It's like she vapes for free!

Preheated convection(?) rosin/flower double deckers up next.... thinking a one minute preheat will be decent enough. Using about .1ish with a tiny BB of rosin crumble.
 

buddingglasshead

Well-Known Member
Quick question about the preheat...

Are you guys preheating the bowl empty or full?


If I ever pre-heat it's 15 or so seconds on the bowl and then I start pulling. I don't have a loading tool so I never heat up the bowl by itself. It's my scoop, currently haha.

Me neither, never again....so instead I found some rosin that is easy to work with (crumbly wax consistency) and tossed a tiny pellet on a bed of coarsely ground flower, and wham double deckers the way I LOVE 'em! I've gone up in temp recently trying to find that thick vape I long for, so am settling around 685 for now. Even with the faster draw, going above 700 just doesn't seem my thing, way too prone to error hot spotting.

The wife was doing the same thing, but at 570, and it was pretty cool because when she was completely done, I could still see the softened/melted rosin right in the middle of the flower bed. Upped to my temp, and still had an incredibly thick rip. It's like she vapes for free!

Preheated convection(?) rosin/flower double deckers up next.... thinking a one minute preheat will be decent enough. Using about .1ish with a tiny BB of rosin crumble.

That's really where it's at for the SH! I had a little CBD isolate left and tried it out the other day. Made it last forever at 550. Great flavor, too.
 

btka

Well-Known Member
@NewVape710 looks f'n badass with his grey mane free flowing like that. :rockon:

...adjustable bowl looks badass as well :lol:

@710 you look good ... and thanks for this informative video!

also I like your micro dose insert concept... waiting for it..

@Danksta I am not preheatingnthe bowl... but i would recommend preheating the bowl without herb as it will cook your herb while preheating and will not taste as good... am I right @emmdeemo
 

lazylathe

Almost there...
do you use the same temp. setting with ogfp and sh... if yes I would suggest to upper your temps. with the sh (using flowers)... so the temp. of stream of hot air hitting yournherb will be the same and maybe slowing down your draw... or one of this (higher temps. on controller or slowing down draw speed)...

I tried using my OGFP temp when first trying the SH and the herb was black on top, very close to combustion.
I went all the way from 500 to 680 in 5F steps and could not find a happy medium.
Fast draw, slow draw, medium draw, with and without SC carb.

It's an awesome bit of engineering to hold and i will most likely test it out again in the future.
For now, the OGFP knocks out micro loads all day, every day consistently!
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
I tried using my OGFP temp when first trying the SH and the herb was black on top, very close to combustion.
I went all the way from 500 to 680 in 5F steps and could not find a happy medium.
Fast draw, slow draw, medium draw, with and without SC carb.

It's an awesome bit of engineering to hold and i will most likely test it out again in the future.
For now, the OGFP knocks out micro loads all day, every day consistently!

You got close to combustion at 680? That's interesting, not sure what accounts for these differences - I posted a showerhead video today at 777F fast draw and the AVB was barely brown.
 

Shooby

4ShOObY3 - IG
You got close to combustion at 680? That's interesting, not sure what accounts for these differences - I posted a showerhead video today at 777F fast draw and the AVB was barely brown.

I start to combust at 777F uncapped using the D-nail SiC WA fairly quick draw, def. not slow.

740-750F browns it but taste like shit. im down to 680F and will go up to 710F.

Most recently i have been twaxing a lot and been down at 515F capped with great taste using orange peel sauce for my dabs and super lemon haze for flower.

*Edit*

The D-Nail SiC Halo's temp is around 460-470F and my controller is set to 515F. My K-type Thermocoupler only goes up to 500F so i couldnt get temps of SiC dish at higher temps.
 

EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
@710 you look good ... and thanks for this informative video!

also I like your micro dose insert concept... waiting for it..

@Danksta I am not preheatingnthe bowl... but i would recommend preheating the bowl without herb as it will cook your herb while preheating and will not taste as good... am I right @emmdeemo

Pre-heat an empty bowl. Three minutes if heating from cold. Only one minute if the bowl is already warm from previous use.

Radiant heat doesnt kill a bowl as quick down at 550 type temps but in the 600's it toasts the load pretty quick.

Once the bowl is hot, it heats back up to temp really quick even after a few minutes cool down (560f controller temp, 3 minutes to get to 260f internal air temp in the bowl without a draw, and after 3 minutes of cool down, only 1 minute to get back to 260).

Obviously, timings could vary at higher temps.

EDIT: All I do is put the head on the bowl and wait till its a bit uncomfortable to touch.
 
Last edited:

EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
I have been pre-heating everything because of @emmdeemo scientific temperature studies on the Flower Pot System. However, I like my temps around 700F rarely if ever capped. I love the open air flow and I feel much better since using the FPSH. My lungs feel much better and I feel better overall. The other day I tried to use a popular hand held vape I have and the biggest problem was the draw restriction made me feel like coughing. The Flower Pot Shower Head has spoiled me. I really dislike restriction the more I have been using the FPSH.

:nod:

Yeah, I feel the same with my lungs as each successive vape has suited my needs more and more. The FPSH being my personal pinnacle (which is great pun considering where I started on this journey :) ). Tho in a very backwards way, I'm still using the permacapped method. I guess the FPSH ticks so many other boxes that the draw restriction doesnt bother me as much (for now, I do love knowing that I can switch it up at any time and I think I feel a change on the wind :) )
 

EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
Wrap Around expanded airflow idea for Showerhead coil nut, 5 more air holes at a 45 degree angle branching off the original 5.

GSCkcYA.jpg

I wonder if the air will take path of least resistance and just largely ignore being branched off into those outer holes? That would take testing :)

In my experience... I do not like to use the showercap (and slower temps ...) I prefer higher temps (at time 710) and a slower draw... in my opinion if you cap the showerhead with showercap it only helps to slow down your drawing, at the end it is not important if you cap your showerhead with the showercap or slow down your drawing speed or or heat the bowl (preheating the bowl is increasing conduction so for example the fp is then a hybrid like crafty/mighty between conduction and convection)...if you do not preheat the bowl then its more convection (maybe nearly 100% convection)...

regarding showerhead with showercap (restricting airflow) vs without showercap and slow draw, I have to say not the temp of the nail is important, important is at the end the temp of the hot air travelling trough the herb/bowl... I bet you will get similar results (vapor density) by only slowing your draw... but @emmdeemo you could measure it with your temp sensor in the bowl use the showercap and then try it withiout the showercap and a slow draw the temp. of hot air which will go through bowl and herb will be the same... the showercap only restricts your airflow and mimics a slow draw... I find the showercap for flowers is totaly not needed and I do not use it with flowers it is to much of a hassle for me (multitasking).. I achieve the same results with slowing down my draw... and do not have to handle and coordinate the showercap...

Yes and no. It def mimics the slower draw which is why its so useful, means more parameters can be altered while still keeping some the same.

However, a cold SS Showercap reduces the temp of the coil/head and sucks heat out until its up to heat again (as does the bowl but its minimal).

I can only guess if a stone cold SC having cold air drawn through it effects things, but certainly down at 460f there is no way on earth I can draw slow enough to get an acceptable hit.

Pre-heated showercap at 460f gives me those low temp hits my lungs can handle on a bad day no matter what draw speed I use.

EDIT: Just realised I havent 'needed' to use a medicinal 460f because of my shit lungs in a few weeks now since I settled completely on ~550 or less. I hope this continues!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Top Bottom