Dynavap VapCap

[Alexis]

Hemp fiber filter placement in M???

@Squiby, I think you said you add a hemp fiber filter between two CCD screens.
I'm a newbie and have an M. I'm thinkin' it only has a notch/ spot for the one stock SS CCD screen or ???

I hate to even take out the stock screen yet.
Would cutting down a regular generic round wire screen to fit at the bottom of the small M chamber work: tiny round screen / hemp fiber / stock CCD screen?
.......................................................
After reading a lot of pages here, it seems the only real maintenance items are the tiny O-rings as they can catch/grab/tear etc.
So, I disassembled the unit and gave them all a light touch of coconut oil.
Then I washed everything in Dawn detergent as it's a great grease fighter, to remove any machining oil.
Then another light touch of coconut oil for O-rings and the two "fittings" on the condenser---not sure what they are made of??
Note: in the small wash container I found a tiny tiny SS burr, like what might have been hanging inside the carb hole after it was drilled. It's like slightly smaller diam than the carb hole.

It's good to wash any new metal items and IMO, always go with lowest level first so I did Dawn instead of harsher ISO.

My only Butane is 10 year old Ronson sooooo, thinking I need to wait until I get cleaner butane, based on reports here about Ronson purity, or lack thereof......

Last time I used my Omni, I tried putting a sort of loose shaped hemp,fiber disc under the screen in the bowl with no screen in, then put the screen on top and pushed it down into the lowest groove. I want the full bowl capacity. I have previiusly been pushing a sort of ball of hemp fiber into the tip underneath the screen, from the condenser end.

However, it wasnt working as well as I wanted, so I tried it this new way, after trying to do the sandwhich between 2 screens method and finding it a bit fiddly getting themminto correct place, then getting stuck together at the bottom of bowl.

Anyway, it seemed to work, except I did have the condenser screwed 80% of the way into the mouthpiece to allow better airflow.

You have indeed raised an interesting question here, how ro employ the hemp fiber filter in the new M tips.

Let the experimenting begin!

Edit @MinnBobber , just make sure thatmetal burr you found is not the clip that goes on top of the screen to keep it in place.

 

[kaisersosay415]

@Squiby Thanks for the recommendation on that lighter. Just ordered one to have as a backup and for portable use $4.70 USD shipped from China

Do you have a link for that torch tia

 

[invertedisdead]

Do you have a link for that torch tia

Via @Squiby http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Creative-Cyl...791940?hash=item2a7160be04:g:OSMAAOSwjVVVnWp4

 

[jambandphan03]

I've really been enjoying the variation between the M and the glass model. I have found that indoors, the glass heats up very quickly using a single flame lighter, but outside it takes a bit longer to get things going (cool climate). I also found with the M, I have to give it a couple of pre-heat clicks and cool down before I start to get things warm enough to get a solid rip, using the single flame (indoors). I am waiting on a double flame and a triple flame lighter to show up, double is coming from cali, so it should be here in a couple days. The triple is from china, so who knows... I expect to at least speed up the heating process for the M using the double torch when it arrives. I also expect the double to work better with the glass unit when outside in the elements. I'll be sure to post an update. I expect the triple flame to be a little bit of overkill for the glass model, but might make quick heat up for the M.

 

[bounce5]

Sorry if I'm totally late to the game, but does anyone have interesting places they've put their DynaMagnet?

I stuck my magnet onto one of these. I use it to adjust the lighter as well. You can get them at Sears for $1.

 

[Bdubbdiblets]

M=DynaVAS!!

Woody...I'm talkin to you!!

 

[cybrguy]

You can get them at Sears for $1.

For the next few minutes...

https://www.usatoday.com/story/mone...substantial-doubt-can-stay-business/99479726/

 

[Squiby]

I was looking at the seemingly curved-chrome beauty peeking out of the bag in that bottom pic.

That, is an old chrome sleeve for a disposable Bic lighter.

WHat size drill bit did you use for the Dynastash

I used a combination of a 12mm drill bit and a Dremel grinder bit and some small finger files. It would be much easier I think if I had a drill press. But, this more manual approach works with patience.

@Squiby, I think you said you add a hemp fiber filter between two CCD screens.
I'm a newbie and have an M. I'm thinkin' it only has a notch/ spot for the one stock SS CCD screen or ???
I hate to even take out the stock screen yet.
Would cutting down a regular generic round wire screen to fit at the bottom of the small M chamber work: tiny round screen / hemp fiber / stock CCD screen.

Any tip will accommodate a filter/screen sandwich. I it takes a wee bit more force to remove the sandwich vs a single screen. so I wouldn't be using the sandwich in the Glass OG tip.

There's no need to remove the screen that's in there now. Simply place the hemp filter over the screen and add another screen on top of the filter. The trick is to:
1. Make a thin filter. Use only maybe 40 actual strands. You want a thin filter that will allow air to freely pass through while catching any fine particles.
2.Press the second screen gently but deliberately into place, stopping to allow the filter to sit between the two screens without being compressed

If you have the 3rd or 4th gen tip, press the second screen into the tip until you hear it snap into the middle groove inside the bowl.

After I discovered the sandwich using the new gen tips with the inner grooves, I tried this technique with the older tips. It also works...

If you have the earlier tips, make this same adjustment. It is a bit trickier because you have to seat the screen without benefit of a guiding ridge. But it can be done without too much trouble. Eyeball where you want the screen to stop and push the centre the screen then tap the perimeter to get it placed where you want it. The Ti screens are maliable and you can friction fit them into position.

Details on my technique for making a disc shaped degummed hemp fiber filter is in a link below in my signature.

 

[FreddieFresh]

Just as quickly as the gang got in, they're headed off to their new homes. I had to get a picture before they were gone.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BSo6ziQDB_c/

Of course, I had had to keep one for myself, and I've been putting it through its paces

I immediately set my Ti ccd to 50% capacity when I got it, and I will say that with the larger load size in the SS I'm getting 5 or 6 good hits at least, compared to the usual 3 or 4.

Solid construction and materials, and the same great vapor quality we've all come to know and love, all wrapped up in a budget friendly package. This thing seriously rocks guys!

 

[Lokbok]

So just got my green envelope today for my second "M" (I was a beta tester) along with some accessories. I was definitely stoked to get my DynastashER, but the one thing I received today that brought me disproportionate amount of joy for such little money is the rubber mouth piece. I got it so I can stick my Dynavaps on to a bong. One of the different things on the beta version of the M from the retail version is that the carb hole is closer to the mouthpiece. My retail version has the hole located more towards the middle. In regular practice, I do think the hole being there does balance the unit better.. but my beta version is far better to be used as a piece that attaches to a water device. Since the hole is drilled closer to the user end, the rubber mouthpiece that Dynavap sells online actually will cover the hole completely.. forcing more vapor into the bong. Definitely been a great weekend for me.

I used to use the Vapor Genie Coil as my water vaporizer piece.. but I think this is going to completely replace it for me.

 

[MinnBobber]

I couldn't wait til I bought clean butane so fired up a Bic for the new M.
? Will my good butane triple torch leave less "soot" on the M cap? The bic leaves a good amount of crud.

Session went well with the exception of...minor combustion. I thought after a hit and long exhale the M had to need more fire----wrong. I guess it hadn't cool clicked yet
Is the cool down click less audible/ a lighter click than the "it's ready click"?

I cut down some big screens into minis for the M.
First hemp filter may have had a little too much fiber for increased draw effort required.
Crafted a smaller hemp filter and will try that later.

So far, me likey

 

[cybrguy]

The Bic at low pressure allows a lot of oxygen in the flame and that is the yellow (soft flame). It also uses less butane. The torch with its higher pressure has a blue flame that produces no soot (and more heat) so none should get on the cap.

 

[grokit]

I also received my m today and I also think it's awesome

The ss m heats up more like the glass og in that the clicks come closer together, and yes it takes a bit longer to fully heat-soak than the other two. But I think they're all much more similar than they are different from each other in actual use. I'm very happy with it as well as my new leopardwood dynastash.

The latest additions to the family, along with a shot of how I'm using my extra magnet atm @Armerad

I was hoping to have a picture of the whole family of three together but the og glass body I tried to add to my order didn't work out after all. It broke when I was using it for the first time after cleaning it from a combustion event, I had only used it a few times overall. It seemed blocked, then I heard a pop, then all of a sudden the draw was wide open as it had cracked apart while I was drawing from it. Bummer.

At least this new m isn't likely fall apart on me like that, it seems pretty tough.
I liked that og glass vapvap until it just spontaneously broke though

 

[snamuh]

I couldn't wait til I bought clean butane so fired up a Bic for the new M.
? Will my good butane triple torch leave less "soot" on the M cap? The bic leaves a good amount of crud.

Session went well with the exception of...minor combustion. I thought after a hit and long exhale the M had to need more fire----wrong. I guess it hadn't cool clicked yet
Is the cool down click less audible/ a lighter click than the "it's ready click"?

I cut down some big screens into minis for the M.
First hemp filter may have had a little too much fiber for increased draw effort required.
Crafted a smaller hemp filter and will try that later.

So far, me likey

You shouldn't let the bic flame touch the vapcap tip. rotate the tip above the flame.
a butane torch flame won't leave anything except discoloration.

the click sound is pretty much the same for both but there is sometimes random variation.

 

[Alegre]

Got the little shinny green package with my "M" Today. First butane vape.

I must say that the unit looks awesome......even my wife took a moment to check it out...she doesn't toke and has shown zero interest in my other vapes.....she thought it looked awesome too!

I will be trying this out later tonight! I did a dry run to check out the clicking and my beautiful cap changed colors....I thought to myself.... NOOOO I messed it up and quickly tried to clean it with a wet rag....silly me

Anyways....I usually micro dose, do I have to fill up the vapcap or can I use a pinch? Can I use whole nugs?, fine or couse grind?

 

[highasakite]

I hate to say this, but I received the M today and am struggling to get great vapor. I have used a Launch Box, Daisy, Boundless CFV, and Extreme Q in the past.

With the carb closed, there is almost ZERO airflow, no matter how hard I draw. Is it supposed to be like this? But with the carb open, I don't seem to get much, if any vapor. I have tried feathering it at different times, etc. On the second bowl, we used the rubber mouthpiece with a bong. I have to be sure not to push the mouthpiece all the way on or it won't make a good seal with the bong. My gf got ok vapor on the first heat cycle, but then I combusted on the second heat cycle! GRRR lol...I feel like an idiot! It was silent in my place, but we still barely heard the first click (it was very very light), it didn't give a bigger click. So I stopped heating it a second or 2 later...then, combustion time. But I did get stoned lol..

I have been using a single flame Eagle torch lighter and it takes about 15-18 seconds to hear the click on a cold Dynavap M. From what Vapelife X said, I thought the longer heat time might produce more vapor, but maybe I need to go with a more dummy-proof 3 or 4 flame torch??

Any advice would be appreciated. I want to blame the device, but it has to be user error, right?

 

[jambandphan03]

I've been working with my M on a single flame, and figured out that if I heat really low on the cap, holding the flame in one spot, turning (spinning) the M only, basically making a band of heat lower down on the cap, it soaks in slowly to the top and then eventually clicks. Just don't go too far down the cap, stay a couple of mm above the scoop. If done correctly, this will produce pretty thick vapor. Also maybe try scooting your heat cap up a hair, from the end, so it's not pressed down tight. I found sometimes mine seems to click and then restrict the air if I have it pressed down all the way.

**once your M is getting warmed up, and retaining heat, start moving up to the middle of the cap instead of the lower position, so you can avoid combustion.

 

[grokit]

With the carb closed, there is almost ZERO airflow, no matter how hard I draw. Is it supposed to be like this?

I can't speak to the torch part yet for the m but it's discussed really well above. I find the draw to be the same as the other stock vapcaps, where I usually do the pulsing cigar puff thing to get it going.

 

[ClearBlueLou]

That, is an old chrome sleeve for a disposable Bic lighter.

okay, I feel silly now, i'd just never seen anything like it - thank you for satisfying my curiosity.

Got the little shinny green package with my "M" Today. First butane vape.....I usually micro dose, do I have fill up the vapcap or can I use a pinch? Can I use whole nugs?, fine or couse grind?

Yes.

Spoke to the folks @ DynaVap, they are so fuckin busy with productions,sales, and mailiiiiiiigs,
engravings are pushed forward until at the earliest, May.

So much for me engraving dreams, lad. --At least, until May.

I'm not arsed about it - but bless you for checking 'n' all

just make sure that metal burr you found is not the clip that goes on top of the screen to keep it in place.

there's a CLIP in there??? REALLY?

I hate to say this, but I received the M today and am struggling to get great vapor. I have used a Launch Box, Daisy, Boundless CFV, and Extreme Q in the past.

With the carb closed, there is almost ZERO airflow, no matter how hard I draw. Is it supposed to be like this?But with the carb open, I don't seem to get much, if any vapor. I have tried feathering it at different times, etc. On the second bowl, we used the rubber mouthpiece with a bong. My gf got ok vapor on the first heat cycle, but then I combusted on the second heat cycle! GRRR lol...I feel like an idiot! It was silent in my place, but we still barely heard the first click (it was very very light), it didn't give a bigger click. So I stopped heating it a second or 2 later...then, combustion time. But I did get stoned lol..

I have been using a single flame Eagle torch lighter and it takes about 15-18 seconds to hear the click on a cold Dynavap M. From what Vapelife X said, I thought the longer heat time might produce more vapor, but maybe I need to go with a more dummy-proof 3 or 4 flame torch??

Any advice would be appreciated. I want to blame the device, but it has to be user error, right?

This is completely at odds with my experience of the M so far: it is a vapor MONSTER IMO compared to my omni...consequently, I hardly know what to tell you: I find the M's airflow to be quite open, and even with the carb closed is not an especially difficult draw - though I can't know what you expect in this regard.

It occurs to me that - given the extra-strength heat-sink properties of the SS - your single-jet is simply not up to the challenge: I find it takes a long damn' while with a triple jet to get the SS tip up to temp.

The other question I have is how TIGHTLY-PACKED is your bowl? I pack mine quite loosely and get good results.

 

[baxter]

I've really been enjoying the variation between the M and the glass model. I have found that indoors, the glass heats up very quickly using a single flame lighter, but outside it takes a bit longer to get things going (cool climate). I also found with the M, I have to give it a couple of pre-heat clicks and cool down before I start to get things warm enough to get a solid rip, using the single flame (indoors). I am waiting on a double flame and a triple flame lighter to show up, double is coming from cali, so it should be here in a couple days. The triple is from china, so who knows... I expect to at least speed up the heating process for the M using the double torch when it arrives. I also expect the double to work better with the glass unit when outside in the elements. I'll be sure to post an update. I expect the triple flame to be a little bit of overkill for the glass model, but might make quick heat up for the M.

Thank you for this write up. Can you elaborate some more on the differences of the glass versus the M? Especially as far as which one hits better (indoors). I only own the glass and using a triple flame with flames lined up in a straight line.

Takes me 6 seconds to hear the click if I put all 3 flames on it and turn it slowly.

I am getting 6 clicks total out of one chamber filled 80% with ground up herb

 

[highasakite]

This is completely at odds with my experience of the M so far: it is a vapor MONSTER IMO compared to my omni...consequently, I hardly know what to tell you: I find the M's airflow to be quite open, and even with the carb closed is not an especially difficult draw - though I can't know what you expect in this regard.

It occurs to me that - given the extra-strength heat-sink properties of the SS - your single-jet is simply not up to the challenge: I find it takes a long damn' while with a triple jet to get the SS tip up to temp.

The other question I have is how TIGHTLY-PACKED is your bowl? I pack mine quite loosely and get good results.

Ok, thank you for the help. I tried a 4th bowl and got slightly better results, but still very little visible vapor. I heated in a ring slightly lower on the cap and moved a couple mm up to the middle. Tried to feather the carb in a lighter fashion, felt it on the back of my throat, good taste, not a lot of visible vapor though.

I thought I had packed the last few...not too tight. But definitely not loose. I will try using a little less product.

And, time to order a 3 flame torch.

 

[jambandphan03]

Thank you for this write up. Can you elaborate some more on the differences of the glass versus the M? Especially as far as which one hits better (indoors). I only own the glass and using a triple flame with flames lined up in a straight line.

Takes me 6 seconds to hear the click if I put all 3 flames on it and turn it slowly.

I am getting 6 clicks total out of one chamber filled 80% with ground up herb

Well, I'm still getting to know the M, in most aspects, I find they perform equally as good as each other (glass and M), I get the same full extraction,just not sure how many hits I am getting per load, or how one differs from the other on that level. I haven't really paid that close of attention. I just usually pack a full load, give it a little press (lightly packed) then go. I find the glass is more sensitive, easier to overheat. I have yet to overheat the M, but have combusted several times in the glass by accident. Now that I know to start low on the heat cap for the M, I am not having to do warm up. I have to remember to move higher up on the cap for the glass model, or else... I like to use the glass one at my desk, and besides just using the M to get to know it better, I plan to save that one for when on the move. I am thinking of the jarhead, for my desk, so I don't have to go through so much butane at home. I like the idea of just popping it in to a heat source, and not having to always use the torch.

 

[Winegums]

I've been working with my M on a single flame, and figured out that if I heat really low on the cap, holding the flame in one spot, turning (spinning) the M only, basically making a band of heat lower down on the cap, it soaks in slowly to the top and then eventually clicks. Just don't go too far down the cap, stay a couple of mm above the scoop. If done correctly, this will produce pretty thick vapor. Also maybe try scooting your heat cap up a hair, from the end, so it's not pressed down tight. I found sometimes mine seems to click and then restrict the air if I have it pressed down all the way.

**once your M is getting warmed up, and retaining heat, start moving up to the middle of the cap instead of the lower position, so you can avoid combustion.

This is my exact method for my 4th gen Ti tip and single jet lighter. I get about 85% extraction from the first heat cycle and whispy vapour on the second.

If I want to really extract the whole load in one shot I'll start my draw on my bong for 3 seconds, then start to torch each side of the cap in the middle for 2 seconds each while it's in the bong, and finally it will click after what seems like an eternity. The vapour production is huge and it hasn't caused any combustion at all. I find that I get nothing off the second hit when I do this.

It seems to hit me a lot harder than usual, which I suspect is due to the prolonged heat at the higher temperatures +400*F. Usually I don't get the same "stoned" effects from vaping unless it's my Herbalizer at 430*F. I think I need to do more testing.

 

[Sketch420]

Almost.

If you drill out the the Dynastash stash compartment the length of the lighter and widen the bore slightly, it will fit. I started to grind out my Paduak stash out and will post pics when I'm done. But yes, the stash can be modified with a little effort to house a small cylindrical lighter.



This little lighter has become a favourite of mine. It's tiny and has a small tank but does last surprisingly long time. It has a volume window, an off/on button and a flint igniter.
Here is link to it:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Creative-Cyl...791940?hash=item2a7160be04:g:OSMAAOSwjVVVnWp4

Well I don't usually use single flames or order ANYTHING from China due to their child labor and horrible work environments, but thanks @Squiby I had to jump on this one. Looks prefect for while I'm out and have limited pocket space (warm weather). I do like the fact it doesn't have an electronic starter as that seems to be the most common reason jet lighters fail (according to my friends who collects and uses them on a daily basis for cigs). I have many triple flame lighters but for $5, had to give it a try. And by the time my mj break is finally over (new job) it should be here.

 

[CarolKing]

Just received the M today. I used it with my Woodscents and worked pretty good. I used it with the butane lighter and I'm still dialing in my sweet spot. I've been busy with family over so it's been a hectic day.
Right now there's a beautiful grandchild sleeping on the sofa.

If a person was hard of hearing or you have music playing it might be hard to hear the click. Even with other people talking in a group I don't know if I would be able to hear it. I'm 60 years old and I don't think I'm hard of hearing?

I might add a very well made device. I love all the pictures of the different units. They are very beautiful.

I want a metal stem like this, possibly with wood too that fits over the oven post of the Woodscents better. This does work though. @Squiby love all your accessories. A very nice collection.