Discontinued The Grasshopper

WoodyWeedPecker

Well-Known Member
@kbrown5523

I have mine since august and never had to returned it but it has a very hot backend and my battery last one bowl, maybe 10 hits. I also don't use it as my daily driver. I use my E-Nano because I feel it's more efficient for small quantity of herb (denser hits, more control over my vaping session, etc). I would probably use the hopper more at home if it had a power adapter as an accessory like the MFLB.

The hopper is a fantastic beast of a vape. I prefer to have it completely filled (or 3/4). It's so convenient as a portable. If you want you can have monster hits at a push of a button. I prefer more smaller but dense hits. It looks like a pen and an ecig. It's perfect. It does require (for me) to bring a couple of batteries with it but for one bowl, one is enough and they are very small.

Two months ago, I thought my hopper was dead. I tried to vape but it gave me the flashing red/blue light. I tried again and same thing. I changed the battery, cleaned it. Same thing. Changed the battery again, re-cleaned it, blowing into it through the holes more carelessly than usual -since my hopper was basically dead-, then also pulling hard on it without the mouthpiece. And there it worked again. I don't know what did it, but can't help but fell like pulling hard on it without the mouthpiece helped. Let's say I'm doing it from time to time now during the cleaning, since at worst it can only help the cleaning. Since then I didn't have a flashing blue/red lights again. The hopper has been working fantastically before and since then (beside the hot back-end of course). If I lose it, I will have to buy another one because I don't see nothing like it in the market and it's perfect as a small portable on-demand convection vaporizer with a 5 sec heat up time.
 
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duff

Well worn
Ever since Hopper Labs added the cleaning blog post, I've begun taking two hits after I've dumped out the cooked goods and I am getting large "bonus" hits.

The chamber looks pretty empty when I dump it, so I don't know if it's buildup somewhere within the body or just cooking the oven walls.
 

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
Does anybody know if u can recharge/pass-through the GH using a car charger? Is the voltage output sufficient, etc?
I may be wrong, but USB outputs tend to be typically spec'd between 900mA and 1.5A. So, it's really a matter of what the charger was originally intended for that will he's give you a feel for the stooch it has. Methinks It'd need to be a 1.5A to serve for pass-thru capability.
 
JoeMama,
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MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
Slick new blue body just arrived.

I now have a whole unit in spares and a couple of bodies to return!
Not bad for the price :haw:

Part of me wishes I bought a blue MP to go with the new body, the scratched and thread-stripped MP fits both working hopper bodies now, the one that replaced it is in good nick but discoloured :doh:

c88ee3a146.jpg

Not really fussed, but very happy with how the warranty and customer service has looked after me :rip::razz:
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
Ok. But does the GH charge ok via a car lighter outlet?
It should do, though try to use one that is UL listed. A cheap 12V adapter killed my initial charger, though there has been a few changes to the design since.
I would recommend using an Xtar MC2. Small but quality portable USB charger. Plugs into the adapter that killed my charger in the car, as well as my PC, various USB/AC adapters or USB powerbank. Charges 2 batteries in a bit over an hour.

Carrying around surplus charged batteries is easy and keeps the vaping at its best constantly.
Relying on just the included charger I found to be occasionally annoying.
 

voodoo_vape

Vapour RebeL
With all the comments that I had read from the beginning of this thread, I have never used their charger... I've bought a nitecore d4 and I'm only charging my batts there.. I think that by doing so, you get rid of a possible cause of failure..
You just need to get an extra 3-4 batteries and an external charger.. that's all.. NO HL CHARGER FOR ME...
 

biohacker

Well-Known Member
Ever since Hopper Labs added the cleaning blog post, I've begun taking two hits after I've dumped out the cooked goods and I am getting large "bonus" hits.

The chamber looks pretty empty when I dump it, so I don't know if it's buildup somewhere within the body or just cooking the oven walls.

Tried this last night.... zero bonus hits for me, not even a little :shrug:

With all the comments that I had read from the beginning of this thread, I have never used their charger... I've bought a nitecore d4 and I'm only charging my batts there.. I think that by doing so, you get rid of a possible cause of failure..
You just need to get an extra 3-4 batteries and an external charger.. that's all.. NO HL CHARGER FOR ME...

After receiving my new nitecore d4, I put away my oem stock usb chargers for good. Holy crap do they charge up faster with the d4! Nite and Day!
 

vapviking

Old & In the Way
Tried this last night.... zero bonus hits for me, not even a little :shrug:



After receiving my new nitecore d4, I put away my oem stock usb chargers for good. Holy crap do they charge up faster with the d4! Nite and Day!
I'm not getting the bonus hits on empty either!

The D2 has two charge rate settings, so I think the D4 likely does also. Slower charging as a practice can help batteries live longer, it is said. Pita with the D2 because the default is 500mah and you have to select 300mah every time a battery is inserted. Am I doing this step unnecessarily?

I really just started a month or so ago using factory cables in two locations at home, using leftover Crafty wall warts. It's convenient to just dock the Hopper 'nearby' - when not in use, that is! I've had no problems with either of these V1's. I haven't timed anything but I think the factory cable charges faster than the 300mah (slower) setting on D2.

Do we know what the charge rate is on the factory charge cable? V1? V2?

Sorry for the ??? @biohacker , they are for the group in general.

On another note, I got back a double-replacement SS last week. Both Body and Back End are new. Same front end with testy screen came back! and old charge cable. But all was in a new Hopper box, with code# label removed. They'd already assigned the new serial # in my account. (GS0071xx). The lettering on Back End is a bit browned, almost like it was done with a branding iron.
The temp dial is very smooth, as others are reporting, and there's been flickering blue at seemingly random times, though mostly not unless I'm drawing. I ignore that flicker; the only one I need to know about is the flash red time to change battery light. Very happy that the click-on button is easier to engage than on any I've had before. Less pressure required to click on/off.
The new SS setup has been performing great.
We're back in the saddle again, and our two hoppers are happily conversing in clicks.
 

ArthurJ

Well-Known Member
I've been running my hopper dry through my mflb orbiter. Here it is at my messy vape station, that's my second draw, at about heat level 3, at about 15 seconds in, probably about a 20 - 25 second draw.

oFuEGXm.jpg


Then, we follow up with the third draw, heat level 4, that's at about 25 seconds and I had just clicked it off. I still can't quite believe how hard it hits, it is unique in my small collection.

ghQmLqq.jpg
 

kbrown5523

Hopping in Washington
I couldn't resist and placed my order for a SS with two extra batteries and an extra silicone mouthpiece. I can't wait for it to arrive!

It says 4-6 weeks on the site, when I placed my order it said January, based on what I've read here I won't hold my breath waiting for it. Does anyone know if they are coming close to meeting their shipping estimates now, or are there still lots of delays?
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
New blog post

img_3239x1000.6358cc9a86e4.jpg


STAINLESS STEEL VS. TITANIUM
What is the difference?

There are a few differences when it comes to Stainless Steel (SS) and Titanium (TI) Hoppers. Each unit has the same internal heater and electronics but a different exterior. Here's a complete breakdown of what separates the two models:

1. Look and Feel - The TI and SS Hoppers look relatively similar. The SS Hopper is silver and shiny, while the TI Hopper has a slight green hue and is less reflective. Each unit has a unique feel due to the balance and size to weight ratio.

2. Weight - TI Hopper is lighter than the SS Hopper.
SS Weight (w/o battery) - 45g
TI Weight (w/o battery) - 35g

3. Strength - The strength of the TI Hopper vs. SS Hopper is complicated to quantify. On paper, SS is roughly 5% "stronger." However, since the TI Hopper is lighter and more flexible, it is less susceptible to damage when dropped.

4. Biologically Compatible - TI is biologically compatible. It is used widely in the medical industry because it is biologically inert and non-allergenic.

5. Corrosion Resistance - TI has exceptional resistance to corrosion when compared to SS. While SS will resist most corrosion through a thin oxide layer that forms on its surface, it can be susceptible to rust under taxing circumstances.

6. Anodization - TI can be anodized to create color without paint or dye. This ability makes it the best choice for the color Hopper. Using an electrolyte fluid and applying current, a layer of titanium dioxide builds on the surface of the metal. This light refractive oxide layer can produce a range of colors depending on its thickness.

--------------------------------------

So there you have it, I think the only functional difference would be from the mouthpiece, which are all interchangeable. The anodised finish is slightly different to the plain metal and the Ti cools down faster. It's interesting they haven't commented on heat, I think the difference would be negligible
 

Gramin

Well-Known Member
Is Caroline away? Not sure if I should hassle her to turn free shipping on for me so I can order batteries.
 
Gramin,
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Al..

Well-Known Member
Hi. I have to send my hopper battery and. Charger to the hopper lab's in America. I'm in the UK and was wondering if anyone else from the UK and sent their back and much did it cost? Many thanks..
 
Al..,

vapviking

Old & In the Way
New blog post

img_3239x1000.6358cc9a86e4.jpg


STAINLESS STEEL VS. TITANIUM
What is the difference?

There are a few differences when it comes to Stainless Steel (SS) and Titanium (TI) Hoppers. Each unit has the same internal heater and electronics but a different exterior. Here's a complete breakdown of what separates the two models:

1. Look and Feel - The TI and SS Hoppers look relatively similar. The SS Hopper is silver and shiny, while the TI Hopper has a slight green hue and is less reflective. Each unit has a unique feel due to the balance and size to weight ratio.

2. Weight - TI Hopper is lighter than the SS Hopper.
SS Weight (w/o battery) - 45g
TI Weight (w/o battery) - 35g

3. Strength - The strength of the TI Hopper vs. SS Hopper is complicated to quantify. On paper, SS is roughly 5% "stronger." However, since the TI Hopper is lighter and more flexible, it is less susceptible to damage when dropped.

4. Biologically Compatible - TI is biologically compatible. It is used widely in the medical industry because it is biologically inert and non-allergenic.

5. Corrosion Resistance - TI has exceptional resistance to corrosion when compared to SS. While SS will resist most corrosion through a thin oxide layer that forms on its surface, it can be susceptible to rust under taxing circumstances.

6. Anodization - TI can be anodized to create color without paint or dye. This ability makes it the best choice for the color Hopper. Using an electrolyte fluid and applying current, a layer of titanium dioxide builds on the surface of the metal. This light refractive oxide layer can produce a range of colors depending on its thickness.

--------------------------------------

So there you have it, I think the only functional difference would be from the mouthpiece, which are all interchangeable. The anodised finish is slightly different to the plain metal and the Ti cools down faster. It's interesting they haven't commented on heat, I think the difference would be negligible
No mention of any difference in function.
Biologically compatible? This is an interesting detail re; Ti, but how much bearing does this have on my use of a Grasshopper? To pin my broken bone together I might want a Ti screw rather than SS, but for drawing on a vape? Am I consuming the casing when I vape? Geez, Is my Mighty biologically compatible? What about my SS travel coffee mug? I guess I do avoid aluminum cookware, but...

Is Caroline away? Not sure if I should hassle her to turn free shipping on for me so I can order batteries.
In Dec she had told me she'd be out for just a few days around christmas. Even if she were away I think someone could help take your money! Go for it.
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
No mention of any difference in function.
Biologically compatible? This is an interesting detail re; Ti, but how much bearing does this have on my use of a Grasshopper? To pin my broken bone together I might want a Ti screw rather than SS, but for drawing on a vape? Am I consuming the casing when I vape? Geez, Is my Mighty biologically compatible? What about my SS travel coffee mug? I guess I do avoid aluminum cookware, but...
The inside is the same for all models. The only difference is the sheath which is very thin and if anything merely acts as a heat sink and electrical path.
The oven is SS on all models, the heater brass, the insulation the exact same. So it makes sense that the performance is too.

Biological compatibility did cross my mind when I chose Ti, but I'm pretty sure the crux of this label is that it doesn't corrode, so when it is used surgically there is no possible reaction. There's nothing wrong with SS, however it's use is relatively more finite. Definitely a moot point for vaping.
 
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