Divine Tribe atty's

[divinetribe]

If anyone has any problem with housings in the v3 and you think that it broke for a reason other than you dropped it hard,, I will replace those bases or mouthpieces (balck or white). I was told the black ceramic is solid, there are no coatings. I will get paul to give me the full breakdown of the black ceramic and what qualities make it black.. he assured me it was not a paint or coating and that it was solid ceramic..

People are not noticing to many results with the revised cups, they work almost the same.
I am still debating on the depth of the intake holes on both the medium and large cups. We definitely shrunk the donut wire holes on both cups.. but would like more feedback on the airflow and if raising the airholes decreases airflow, which is important to so many

I'm confused as to whether the large cups were ever revised. All of the large cups I have are identical. The donuts differ, but the 4 that came with my black v3s (2x2) and the 12 that came with my white v3s (2 from the first batch and two from the "new" batch) are all the same. I don't see a difference at all in post hole size or airflow hole size or location.




If you cruise back a few pages, I posted some of my settings on my Hcigar vt75. Just a less powerful version of what you have, but my settings should work for you. I'm happy to share my custom material profiles with you too, if you'd like.

Sorry that I can't offer any help with the DC - but I don't own one. I will probably grab one when the rebuildable version is available.

I use a modified TCR 176 or TCR 190 depending on which donut I am using. I have not tried the new large donuts with my curves much, though, as I am using the medium donuts on my vt75.



I bought the iStick tc40w from Matt on eBay with one of the v3s with the new squiggly donuts. I don't use it in VW, I use it in Ni mode. The old donuts required a temp of around 260-270F in Ni mode to get good temps on the donut of around 200C (392F), and with the squiggly donuts I need to go up to at LEAST 340F to see any vapor.


I am also noticing this exact issue. 2-3 hits on a fresh load, then it needs more. Believe it or not, I am just loading more. On a clean donut, I load 4-5 loads of 0.05g, or around 1/4g taking my 2-3 good hits on each load. Then, each load after this gives 5-10 good hits. Essentially I am letting this corner buildup grow just enough so that any additional loads are forced to stay on top of the donut. When I go to clean, i just scrape it out. The only negative I see to this so far is that I've broken a medium cup with my ceramic tweezers. One of the airflow hole lips cracked off.


Yep, my two new white v3 kits have the new donuts. I got two v3s from the initial run and those are the only ones with the old large donuts (~.45 ohm).




If these are anything like the v2-alikes, it is not a black glaze. They are made of black ceramic, so to say, not just alumina, but alumina with some impurity (likely a carbon) to add the black color. I haven't broken a black v3, but if the center is black (is black all the way through) then this is the case. My mouthpiece end is seemingly made this way, but maybe @divinetribe can chime in here and help.

Edit: If they aren't black glazed, but instead black alumina, that would explain why they are more brittle. Any impure ceramic is not as strong. The eBay seller who provided my v2-alikes even noted that the white ceramic is stronger on those than the black for this very reason.

 

[Steven]

Yea I urge those who have both old and new cups to do a back to back comparison hit. The newer cups have small lead holes and raised air holes. Ime the newer cups with raised air flow have 50% less airflow than the older cups. I notice this clearly when hitting them both back to back. This has resulted in me using the old cups for a while now. I vote for lowered air holes.

I am also breaking a lot of v3 housings. I believe the general design of the screw holes are just a bit flawed. I'm still dreaming of magnets or orings but the screws r what is breaking the housing for me. I screw them in snuggly, then i notice they wiggle over time and I believe it's the continued tightening on top of the already thin ceramic where the screw holes are leads to breakage. Instead of having a thinner ceramic ceramic housing for the screw (which is a clear weak point) how about just have a screw hole that's a hair bigger than the screw and have the housing fit a bit snugger if you must use screws. This way the screws can be fully tightened without worry and they are used as blockers for any wiggle. That's basically what I'm doing now but the screw holes are too big once broken.

I finally got to using the squiggle donuts cuz I broke a few donuts fiddling around. So far I'm getting good results around tcr 340 20w at 420F. More experimenting needed but this is a good starting point for me so far.

 

[elmoe420]

+1 to get rid of the screws in favors of orings or magnets. This is the one part of the v3 design I really dislike.

 

[looney2nz]

I've got the original cups for the 13mm donut, and I'm hoping the 10mm donut in the medium cup isn't too bad... I was really looking forward to it Is there a modified medium cup coming up? Can we use the 10mm in the original 13mm cup?

 

[divinetribe]

nice words from someone on reddit https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/...rue_temp_controlled_ceramic_dry_herb/daaqie1/

Yea I urge those who have both old and new cups to do a back to back comparison hit. The newer cups have small lead holes and raised air holes. Ime the newer cups with raised air flow have 50% less airflow than the older cups. I notice this clearly when hitting them both back to back. This has resulted in me using the old cups for a while now. I vote for lowered air holes.

I am also breaking a lot of v3 housings. I believe the general design of the screw holes are just a bit flawed. I'm still dreaming of magnets or orings but the screws r what is breaking the housing for me. I screw them in snuggly, then i notice they wiggle over time and I believe it's the continued tightening on top of the already thin ceramic where the screw holes are leads to breakage. Instead of having a thinner ceramic ceramic housing for the screw (which is a clear weak point) how about just have a screw hole that's a hair bigger than the screw and have the housing fit a bit snugger if you must use screws. This way the screws can be fully tightened without worry and they are used as blockers for any wiggle. That's basically what I'm doing now but the screw holes are too big once broken.

I finally got to using the squiggle donuts cuz I broke a few donuts fiddling around. So far I'm getting good results around tcr 340 20w at 420F. More experimenting needed but this is a good starting point for me so far.

I have housings for anyone who's bases are cracking and it's not from dropping them.. this is something that I had them make the ceramic thicker in the recent batch and future batches, so if that breaks don't be shy matt@ineedhemp.com email me for a new one. leaving the donut cups for the medium and large the original depth for the airholes and just making sure the donut wire holes are the smallest they can be will be the next revised cup. i am waiting on a timeframe still for the crucible cup, the hydratube adapter samples should be in my hands next week.. The off gas test for the V3 is still going I am waiting for the results.

And if you are in Humboldt or want to come up this way and see the redwoods and ocean it would be nice to hang out and do some dabs.

please email me matt@ineedhempc.om for direct answers to your questions, I can not read all the posts on this thread like I want to.

Hope everyone has something to be thankful for this Thanksgiving, Wishing your families are well and you are able to call or spend as much time with them as possible..

 

[Tranquility]

Got the shipments yesterday and tested the V3 and tried the dry herb atomizer.

On the DH (DTDH?), I went straight power and kept the watts in the low-middle. (25-30) I took my time and heated the oven slowly and then went for it. I got vapor, but it was light. Even at 30 towards the end, I don't think I extracted all the goodness of the packing. As to that, I lightly tamped the herb down when loading and found it came out as a little plug/pill when emptying. I don't think I found the same extraction (At least by color.) as when I use my MFLB or Firefly2. Next time I try I think I have to up the watts a bit.

Still, the vapor was tasty and, even at the end of the session, came out cool enough to take without a problem. It tasted good, was convenient, and, if I get the power-levels down right, might just work out pretty well. There is a ton of experimenting still in the future to know for sure.

I'll try the V3 tonight on some good shatter. When testing some of the settings, I did not find the interior of the crucible (The doughnut?) to be getting hot enough to vape. The thermometer I was using was a cheap infrared one with laser targeting I got from Harbor Freight Tools so am uncertain as to if it is the V3 or the thermometer that is giving the results different from what I expected at the mod programming input. Will report when real world "testing" later today.

 

[divinetribe]

Getting excited
Letter from the FDA LAB today:

Hi Matt,



We have completed the testing and will send you the report shortly –


Need to address an item on the quote with you –

For the metals analysis, I quoted you n = 1, for the one sample. I overlooked that a blank is also run with that method.


A method blank, in this case, is a tube just like the one used to collect the sample for the metals analysis, except it’s clean – not used for sampling. It gets prepared and analyzed just like the sample tube. It’s a useful measure to evaluate potential contamination resulting from the complete preparation and analytical procedure


Thus n actually = 2, so your charges would be an additional $125 on the quote total. Is that going to be okay?


Thanks

Nicole

 

[Raz0r]

Hi Guys,
my 2.7 atomizer for shatter was burned out at September, so I have ordered the v3.0 + base (w/o mouthpiece for 2.7 version).
After month I didn't receive my package (from USA to Europe) and wrote to Matt.

Matt was very friendly and sent me another package for my friends which were at USA at that moment.
So at that moment Matt already sent me the second set + 2days priority shipping for USA.
When friend gave me my package I was additionally pleased because Matt added full set for 2.7 but I need only the base.
So, as a customer I was very happy to have deal with Matt - fast emailing, new package, additional sets, etc

As for device. I have a little bit of rosin so tested v3.0 for last 2 weeks only 4-5 times, not in daily use.
As for me, if you have no access to rosin/bho, than 2.7 may be will be better, but If you have tons of rosin v3.0 is that you need Also, I like the set of v3.0, even if I burn out it, I could change it.
And the most I liked - TC. I'm running my v3.0 on Cuboid on NI mode with 25w/400F - maybe it's incorrect settings but works for me fine.
Sorry for my English and one more time thanks to Matt

 

[Tranquility]

The V3 was delightful.

It worked as I would have hoped and the taste was better than expected. (That's even considering having used the ceramic miracle coils on my Saionara recently.) These modern atomizers combined with a mod really work. If you haven't taken the plunge yet, I recommend building up a mod-based system. The technology will be around for a while and it gives you the power to change and improve specific features of your set up without having to buy (And, learn.) a new everything.

That being said, the vape can be a lot better once I learn how to use my mod. I finally ended up going at 22W and not tripping the temp of 400F in NI mode as well. I could feel the vapor and feathered the mod to get what I wanted so I guess I was just used the mod in straight power mode. (Skills learned in temp control with the MFLB helped.) It produced a cool temp vapor that was tasty and light and just what I wanted. I know I can turn up the power later and get bigger clouds. But, I think I'm pretty close to just trying to dial things in and be happy.

That dialing things in is something that I'll have to spend some time on. It is clear to me I am little more than a monkey pushing on a button on the mod hoping something good will happen. I paid a bit extra for the extra power and control of a DNA device but I'm currently using it like an unregulated mod. I think I'm going to have to go to the mod specific forums and spend some effort there. Along with touching all the buttons on the Escribe and otherwise experimenting, I think it will be worth it not only in experiencing the vapes I have now, but also in being able to exploit future vapes. (One reason I got a bigger mod rather than a smaller one. I didn't want to buy just for today, but for what will come.)

 

[1DMF]

I seem to be getting varied results from each doughnut.

I was running TCR 380F 18W M=300 with the pre-installed V3 doughnut and was getting OK results.

I changed a doughnut to show off to a friend the ease of changing the atty and so they could experience clean taste from a new atty, and those settings didn't cut the mustard.

I have found with this atty I need TCR 380F 21W M=369 and I am getting nice hits, great flavour and no burning.

I guess no two doughnuts are equal?

 

[divinetribe]

Generation 2 DC Atomizer,
My Dreams have come true!!! this will be available in JAn 2017.
This will use the same metal base as the v3.. It Temps in Ni mode too, I had the cup made a little smaller. Will be getting a fitted silicone tip for any heat issues on the mouthpiece.

for my customers who have hyrdatubes, I got five of each size for testing in 14mm 18mm male or female,,

I sent a couple out already but i got one for whoever has or is getting a hyrdatube please email me for attachment for the v3,,

 

[Danksta]

I got the V3 last week (thanks for the FC discount Matt!) and am pretty pleased with it.

I just got a evic mini 2 and can use TCR mode now. I was having trouble getting my Tesla 40w to go into TC mode and ended up breaking it. If you got one don't drop it. That trigger is easy to break.

ATM I'm using M=300 370f 25w and am finally getting what I feel is quality vapor. I had been using an iStick 30w while I waited for the evic to arrive and that thing just didn't seem to be consistent.

I will have to play with different settings. This thing truly shines in TCR mode. Totally different experience over just using VW.

As far as the V3 goes so far I think the rebuildable design is very cool. I have already had to clean it and it was very easy to clean and reassemble.

I was given 3 large donuts and I think they are pretty nice. Maybe a bit too big though. It's nice for throwing big globs in it though.

I emailed Matt and have some medium donuts on the way. I think a smaller donut would be a better. Having the option to switch cup size is great.

Lots of testing to be done

Very happy to be supporting Divine Tribe finally.

 

[Vintagesheep]

Hello im having problems with my v2.5 ive tried almost every setting that i could read in this fourm and I am getting absolutely no smoke/vapor whatsoever. I have the 0.8ohm version and an istick pico and im running it atm at tcr 245 m1 and 300F and 19w. Any help would be so appreaciated

 

[Steven]

Hello im having problems with my v2.5 ive tried almost every setting that i could read in this fourm and I am getting absolutely no smoke/vapor whatsoever. I have the 0.8ohm version and an istick pico and im running it atm at tcr 245 m1 and 300F and 19w. Any help would be so appreaciated

Happy Thanksgiving hope this helps. That's pretty close to what I use for the v2.5. I use tcr 245, 11-12w (u can use 18w, there's some here who do with good results), and the kicker here is 420F. U don't have to use 420F but if u want more vapor, you definitely want to bump the temp up. I would at least go to 400F or so. Good luck.

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Happy day after thanksgiving everyone!

Yep, I was WAY out of it when I wrote that and couldn't pull your handle out of my brain at the time, but that would be the baby. Wanna build me one?

If you buy yourself a cubis pro mini tank and the co2 oil to fill it with, I can make you the donut-coil-head for it and send it to you. I've decided to make another tank for myself, and I'll be filling it with a 4:1 CBD/THC co2 oil. I'm gonna make an extra coil head for our Divine Tribe leader too, since he asked me to make one for him to try out himself.

Maybe it can be the seed for a new ceramic coil head product for tanks and optimized for co2 / holy water with different shape ceramic heater coils inside?

I've been vaping various strains of CBD-heavy concentrates on these 2 evics for a while now, (back to v2.5 days, these were my last to convert to v3) and they've served me admirably in that role. But I get too lazy and don't always reload them after use, which leaves me needing to re-load them before more use later, which is annoying when I desire instant-CBD relief. The co2 tank will plug that gap perfectly, I hope.

I try to sort my mods' use by color, somewhat, and I think of medical dispensary signs and logos, using green and white often times, for my medical usages. So that's what made me go white and blue-green (cyan?) here, and I got one of these new ballsack-crinkled blue evic basic + cubis mini kits OTW for the new project.

Let me know if you really want that coil head, I'll be busy in the garage this weekend drilling a bunch of holes in the metal casings as the first step.

p.s. 'lamp' cord, is multi-strand 'zip' power cord.

Also...I tried fernand's idea for the protecting the donut lead wires in the posts with extra pieces of cut wire or cord. I had a spool of 24 gauge copper speaker wire lying around, so I removed the insulation and chopped it into tiny pieces that fit flush in the post. 4 short pieces of wire in 1 post makes the medium donut wire sit snug, and I tightened the screw on the post super-tight now. I hope I'm not crushing the donut wire still, but everything seems to be working fine with the extra wires!

I will eventually add copper wires to my dozen other v3 terminal posts that I'm using when I take the cups out to clean...that will take a while Good tip fern

I'm confused as to whether the large cups were ever revised. All of the large cups I have are identical. The donuts differ, but the 4 that came with my black v3s (2x2) and the 12 that came with my white v3s (2 from the first batch and two from the "new" batch) are all the same. I don't see a difference at all in post hole size or airflow hole size or location.

People are not noticing to many results with the revised cups, they work almost the same.
I am still debating on the depth of the intake holes on both the medium and large cups. We definitely shrunk the donut wire holes on both cups.. but would like more feedback on the airflow and if raising the airholes decreases airflow, which is important to so many

From what I understood, the revised cups for the medium have the air holes raised up higher from the floor. This decreases airflow and also makes it easier for excess melting oil to leak into the air holes, since the gap between the donut underside and the intake holes is much smaller? The original medium cups have the lower air holes.

And for the large cups, the latest versions have smaller, tight holes for the wires, and the same air flow holes. Maybe Matt also has passed around some large cups with raised airflow holes, but I don't have any of those. I'm using one of the large cups with the small wire holes, and it seems to help with the leaking, but next time I clean this large donut, I'm switching this last 'large donut mod' of mine to a medium cup and donut, like all the rest.

I find the quicker warm-up time and ability to use smaller loads more easily makes the 10mm a winner I'll give the large donut another try if we can get a radically different cup, if the heated crucible cup doesn't come first

I use a modified TCR 176 or TCR 190 depending on which donut I am using. I have not tried the new large donuts with my curves much, though, as I am using the medium donuts on my vt75.

This is still for your OG large donuts right? I was wondering what TCR #s you've settled on for the medium donuts. I've found my 10mm discs to be very close and consistent on the heat. I finally got a IR thermometer with adj. emissivity on the way now too, so I'll be able to offer more accurate readings soon!

I've got the original cups for the 13mm donut, and I'm hoping the 10mm donut in the medium cup isn't too bad... I was really looking forward to it Is there a modified medium cup coming up? Can we use the 10mm in the original 13mm cup?

I wouldn't use the medium donut in the large cup. You could surely fit it in there and make it work, but the huge gap between the outer edge of the medium donut and the large cup would allow tons of oil to fall and sit, un-vaped, unless you scoop it back where it belongs. The ridge / gap in the medium cup and donut is more work-able.

Generation 2 DC Atomizer,
My Dreams have come true!!! this will be available in JAn 2017.
This will use the same metal base as the v3.. It Temps in Ni mode too, I had the cup made a little smaller. Will be getting a fitted silicone tip for any heat issues on the mouthpiece.
for my customers who have hyrdatubes, I got five of each size for testing in 14mm 18mm male or female,,

I sent a couple out already but i got one for whoever has or is getting a hyrdatube please email me for attachment for the v3,,

Nice! Our vape dreams are becoming reality, slowly, before our eyes!

Can't wait to try these new GonG adapters for the V3. It will be interesting to try the new DC atty to see how it's improved over the first gen!

Hello im having problems with my v2.5 ive tried almost every setting that i could read in this fourm and I am getting absolutely no smoke/vapor whatsoever. I have the 0.8ohm version and an istick pico and im running it atm at tcr 245 m1 and 300F and 19w. Any help would be so appreaciated

Steve got you on the most likely problem with your settings: temp

@ TCR 245, you'll want at least 370, 380 for moderate vapor, depending on concentrate type. Most people tend to like 390 or 400 as a default starting point, and you can go above 400 if you like big, hot vape too.

Using a temp setting of 300 is fine for the preset TC-Ni mode, you can get decent vape starting around 290-300.

18w on the v2.5 donut is fine if you like a faster warm-up time, and it shouldn't harm anything if the measured atomizer resistance on the mod is low and accurate.

If these settings don't fix your problem, it might be caused by a faulty atty that has the donut sitting up in the air raised above the cup. The donut should be sitting as low and flat in the cup as possible to vape the oil rather than just melt it into the cup underneath. If this is the case, you can carefully try to push it into the cup - it may sit nice and low after you push it, it may spring back, it may break. I've noticed about 1 / 20 v2.5 attys have these faulty high-rise donuts. Matt will send u a new v2.5 if yours sits too high. Good luck with that!

 

[looney2nz]

If you buy yourself a cubis pro mini tank and the co2 oil to fill it with, I can make you the donut-coil-head for it and send it to you. I've decided to make another tank for myself, and I'll be filling it with a 4:1 CBD/THC co2 oil. I'm gonna make an extra coil head for our Divine Tribe leader too, since he asked me to make one for him to try out himself.

Maybe it can be the seed for a new ceramic coil head product for tanks and optimized for co2 / holy water with different shape ceramic heater coils inside?

yeppers! I'll order the cubis pro mini tank, and I talk to my dispensary guy tomorrow and we'll see how the PopNaturals are doing and what other options there are (your oil looks good!). Just PM me and let me know how to compensate you for your efforts! Thank you so much!

oh, and about the strands of copper inserted into the wire holes to tighten the connection... my only hesitation is that it may just spread across the surface of each wire and still increase contact resistance. But experimentation is the only way to tell!

 

[OF]

I guess no two doughnuts are equal?

No, but they can be enough alike so they can perform 'right' in the overall system. That is the mod can adjust for differences. In fact, it's adjusting to changes (differences.....) when in TCR mode?

Rant on that very topic coming up in fact:

Hello im having problems with my v2.5 ive tried almost every setting that i could read in this fourm and I am getting absolutely no smoke/vapor whatsoever. I have the 0.8ohm version and an istick pico and im running it atm at tcr 245 m1 and 300F and 19w. Any help would be so appreaciated

Happy Thanksgiving hope this helps. That's pretty close to what I use for the v2.5. I use tcr 245, 11-12w (u can use 18w, there's some here who do with good results), and the kicker here is 420F. U don't have to use 420F but if u want more vapor, you definitely want to bump the temp up. I would at least go to 400F or so. Good luck.

Makes perfect sense to me. Do you really expect jaw dropping performance at 300F? Bump that up to 400 and you might get some business going. But if you asked for and got 300F, no vapor is exactly on par. No fault in reality as it were.

[Rant on]

Normally we set two magic settings: How much power do we allow to get to what temperature. A power and a target value that will override the power used.

We can defeat the temperature part by jacking the setting up to 600F if you have a m value that's even close. This means power alone will limit performance. In this condition we can dial the power up and down and most find useful performance starts about 10 Watts I think? 11 is more, 12 even more and so on. 12 is generally held to be a good number I think, held by most to eventually get too hot if held down too long.

Enter temperature limit. The combination of the m value entered (how much change per degree) and temperature change needed to reach the target displayed are multiplied by the other to calculate the rise in resistance expected. When that target resistance change is measured, the program throttles the power back so it doesn't overheat. Or so the theory goes.

The Watts part of the deal should 'always' work alone for any reasonable doughnut. Like a soldering iron eventually heat supplied matches heat lost and stable temperature happens. Deliver 12 Watts to any doughnut in the box and you should get the same answer. TCR not so much so. Especially as we see it from a user POV.

In a practical sense only some of the conductors of the current are heated by the doughnut. While the heat in the doughnut is obvious, the leads, and connections back to the sense point are not. Their resistance doesn't change yet is part of the whole we can sense.

Normally this is 'calibrated out' to a first order at least by 'tweaking' the m value we pick. To pick an extreme for easy thinking, consider when the heater is half the total, the measured change is half what it was when the heater was the only resistance. We tell it to expect a smaller percentage change total to compensate for expected 'stray' resistances.

So we can start with a reasonable m value and step the temperature up (or down) to find the point where the onset of solid production is found. The raise the m value to lower the displayed (requested) temperature, or raise it to bring the displayed value back toward reality. To the mod dialing one up or the other down is the same thing.

You can use this technique (fish out max power, back off a bit and fish out good vapor at 390F) with the new V3 BTW I'm running the smaller one at 12.5 Watts with the same m value (245) as V2.5/2.7. The big guy needs more like 18 Watts and a lower m value (currently I'm using 170). Performance is basically the same at 390F in all cases, but the V3 really needs seat belts.....

[Rant mode off]

I just got one of Matts evaluation WPAs to try out. Dangerous in a word. It's basically the same height as my PNWT (six inches) and works naturally one or two handed. A powerful tool for good and right for sure.

IMO it might be worth making it a bit shorter overall. I think half an inch or so can easily be cut off without having the bell of the adapter (where the atty plugs in) contact the WT above. But that's what evaluations are for? BTW it makes a useful MP without a WT. But put Mister Hydrotube on top and hang on!

OF

 

[Steven]

IMO it might be worth making it a bit shorter overall. I think half an inch or so can easily be cut off without having the bell of the adapter (where the atty plugs in) contact the WT above

The overall height was a bit of concern of mine as well. Still waiting for mines in the mail but now looking at the pictures, it does look like the tapered male end of the WTA would be better to start much lower than where it is. If possible, having the tapered male end begin immediately is preferable to shorten whatever that can be shortened. Looking forward to goodies in the mail

 

[OF]

If possible, having the tapered male end begin immediately is preferable to shorten whatever that can be shortened. Looking forward to goodies in the mail

We're saying the same thing I think. I want to shorten the cylindrical part under the taper by maybe half? You could also cut the height of the belled out bottom (that fits over the lower body against the o-rings. You could easily cut 1/4 inch looks like, maybe even 3/8. Fine tuning yet to be sorted out, but a great start IMO. Works just fine but is 'crying out' for a bit more refinement?

OF

 

[fernand]

@1DMF YES the donuts vary. And there are ever more variations coming out.

I know this isn't for everybody, but the way I look at it the cost of an IR thermometer and getting to know it is minor in the overall costs. Not to be "elitist" about this (it's apparently considered a sin these days) but IMHO it's NICE to know how hot things get. I mean when Baby Jonesy's lookin' sick, coughing up and eating plaster off the wall momma don't stick a voltmeter up his butt, she uses a ... thermometer!

 

[kaisersosay415]

Just picked up a D.C. How many watts and temp should I run it at. I don't think my mod has tcr. But I can change watts and temp

Edit. Also if I was to use it power mode what is recommended wattage. And if I use it on temp what type of metal ti or ni

 

[Steven]

@OF yea I think we are talking about the same thing. I just got my wtf as well and I agree on the height issue. The orings are also too small and loose for adapting Hydratubes Imo. I replaced the orings with some silicon bands that I have and now the fit is snuggly perfect. I can even hold my mod with hydratube at 45 degrees no problem.

 

[WKONE]

Hey all, haven't been here in a while.

Is there new v3 donuts/cups for sale yet on the DT website? I want to buy a bunch of them, but can't figure out how to order. Thanks!

 

[fernand]

Is there? IS THERE???? Does the pope crap in the woods? I'll say!

http://ineedhemp.com/product/divine...mic-donut-atomizer-fcombustion-discount-link/

@1DMF re:
"Perhaps I need to look at some rehydration system which I have seen mentioned something about Bodeva and adding moisture back to the plant?"

I've been using these little Boveda 62 hydrapacks in sealed jars and even thrown in a chest with little 1g packets of various strains, and they keep the humidity at 62%, which is perfect. Prevents drying out, prevents molding, herbs retain potency much longer. These packs can be re-humidified if they get too dry. They don't recommend it of course, but it's just physics, so they can last a long long time.

 

[looney2nz]

Happy day after thanksgiving everyone!




If you buy yourself a cubis pro mini tank and the co2 oil to fill it with, I can make you the donut-coil-head for it and send it to you. I've decided to make another tank for myself, and I'll be filling it with a 4:1 CBD/THC co2 oil. I'm gonna make an extra coil head for our Divine Tribe leader too, since he asked me to make one for him to try out himself.

Maybe it can be the seed for a new ceramic coil head product for tanks and optimized for co2 / holy water with different shape ceramic heater coils inside?

I've been vaping various strains of CBD-heavy concentrates on these 2 evics for a while now, (back to v2.5 days, these were my last to convert to v3) and they've served me admirably in that role. But I get too lazy and don't always reload them after use, which leaves me needing to re-load them before more use later, which is annoying when I desire instant-CBD relief. The co2 tank will plug that gap perfectly, I hope.

I try to sort my mods' use by color, somewhat, and I think of medical dispensary signs and logos, using green and white often times, for my medical usages. So that's what made me go white and blue-green (cyan?) here, and I got one of these new ballsack-crinkled blue evic basic + cubis mini kits OTW for the new project.

Let me know if you really want that coil head, I'll be busy in the garage this weekend drilling a bunch of holes in the metal casings as the first step.



Also...I tried fernand's idea for the protecting the donut lead wires in the posts with extra pieces of cut wire or cord. I had a spool of 24 gauge copper speaker wire lying around, so I removed the insulation and chopped it into tiny pieces that fit flush in the post. 4 short pieces of wire in 1 post makes the medium donut wire sit snug, and I tightened the screw on the post super-tight now. I hope I'm not crushing the donut wire still, but everything seems to be working fine with the extra wires!

I will eventually add copper wires to my dozen other v3 terminal posts that I'm using when I take the cups out to clean...that will take a while Good tip fern





From what I understood, the revised cups for the medium have the air holes raised up higher from the floor. This decreases airflow and also makes it easier for excess melting oil to leak into the air holes, since the gap between the donut underside and the intake holes is much smaller? The original medium cups have the lower air holes.

And for the large cups, the latest versions have smaller, tight holes for the wires, and the same air flow holes. Maybe Matt also has passed around some large cups with raised airflow holes, but I don't have any of those. I'm using one of the large cups with the small wire holes, and it seems to help with the leaking, but next time I clean this large donut, I'm switching this last 'large donut mod' of mine to a medium cup and donut, like all the rest.

I find the quicker warm-up time and ability to use smaller loads more easily makes the 10mm a winner I'll give the large donut another try if we can get a radically different cup, if the heated crucible cup doesn't come first




This is still for your OG large donuts right? I was wondering what TCR #s you've settled on for the medium donuts. I've found my 10mm discs to be very close and consistent on the heat. I finally got a IR thermometer with adj. emissivity on the way now too, so I'll be able to offer more accurate readings soon!




I wouldn't use the medium donut in the large cup. You could surely fit it in there and make it work, but the huge gap between the outer edge of the medium donut and the large cup would allow tons of oil to fall and sit, un-vaped, unless you scoop it back where it belongs. The ridge / gap in the medium cup and donut is more work-able.



Nice! Our vape dreams are becoming reality, slowly, before our eyes!

Can't wait to try these new GonG adapters for the V3. It will be interesting to try the new DC atty to see how it's improved over the first gen!



Steve got you on the most likely problem with your settings: temp

@ TCR 245, you'll want at least 370, 380 for moderate vapor, depending on concentrate type. Most people tend to like 390 or 400 as a default starting point, and you can go above 400 if you like big, hot vape too.

Using a temp setting of 300 is fine for the preset TC-Ni mode, you can get decent vape starting around 290-300.

18w on the v2.5 donut is fine if you like a faster warm-up time, and it shouldn't harm anything if the measured atomizer resistance on the mod is low and accurate.

If these settings don't fix your problem, it might be caused by a faulty atty that has the donut sitting up in the air raised above the cup. The donut should be sitting as low and flat in the cup as possible to vape the oil rather than just melt it into the cup underneath. If this is the case, you can carefully try to push it into the cup - it may sit nice and low after you push it, it may spring back, it may break. I've noticed about 1 / 20 v2.5 attys have these faulty high-rise donuts. Matt will send u a new v2.5 if yours sits too high. Good luck with that!

Have they stopped making the Cubis Pro Mini? I can't find anything but the Cubis Pro tank anywhere