Discontinued Wychwood Vaporizers UK Log Vape
- Thread starter J.R.R.Tokin'
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jardri
Vapor Dreams
As I wait my WW to come, I have been testing several AC adapters I have here and have found 2 of them whose may be useful. Both of them are 1000mA and they give 11,9 and 12,0 real V. As I have been reading this is the exact current they need.
Now I need to know the exact connector the WW uses in order to customize my AC adapters, can anyone help?
Now I need to know the exact connector the WW uses in order to customize my AC adapters, can anyone help?
b0
Cloudy...
Jardri in this post you have a lot of useful info http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/regulated-vs-unregulated-power-supplies-for-log-vapes.4918/
I think one of the best options is to buy a good regulated power adaptor (fopre example one for a tattoo machine). You would be able to choose if you want more or less temp in your WW and will improve your experience.
I think one of the best options is to buy a good regulated power adaptor (fopre example one for a tattoo machine). You would be able to choose if you want more or less temp in your WW and will improve your experience.
vorrange
Vapor.wise
The connector is a 2.1mm.
jardri
Vapor Dreams
Thanks vorrange! You are saying 2.1 mm internal diameter right?
placetime
Well-Known Member
jardri
Vapor Dreams
I have reveived OhTheAgony´s WW and playing with him! First thing I did I dropped and broke the glass stem 
but when it heated I used the glass adapter and my bong and was milking the tube much more than my volcano or even my solo do, with better flavour and no air restriction with low quantities of herbs. Why log vapes are you so unknown here in europe I lived in the dark side soo much
but when it heated I used the glass adapter and my bong and was milking the tube much more than my volcano or even my solo do, with better flavour and no air restriction with low quantities of herbs. Why log vapes are you so unknown here in europe I lived in the dark side soo much
OhTheAgony
here for the chicks
Crap, I have plenty of heat resistant silicon tubing, if only we knew this a little earlier I would have send you some too.
Which stem was it that you broke by the way?
I wouldn't just use anything since it gets hot & you're breathing through it. You can buy some from Underdog-Dave & perhaps HI/TT-Alan sells some as well. I'm not sure if he carries large quantities, but perhaps Cookie can provide you some too. I'm sure he'll chime in as well at one point.
But for now, I can send you some of mine if you don't mind paying for shipping one more time? I have a reasonable stock of both sizes UD-Dave sells if you're interested.
I haven't checked with Cookie if the warranty is transferable btw, perhaps he can chime in on that one as well when he reads this?
Which stem was it that you broke by the way?
I wouldn't just use anything since it gets hot & you're breathing through it. You can buy some from Underdog-Dave & perhaps HI/TT-Alan sells some as well. I'm not sure if he carries large quantities, but perhaps Cookie can provide you some too. I'm sure he'll chime in as well at one point.
But for now, I can send you some of mine if you don't mind paying for shipping one more time? I have a reasonable stock of both sizes UD-Dave sells if you're interested.
I haven't checked with Cookie if the warranty is transferable btw, perhaps he can chime in on that one as well when he reads this?
jardri
Vapor Dreams
I already sent an email to Cookie and he told me that he could send me some but I didn´t ask him about warranty.
I broke the one-piece glass tube. I am not getting used to the other ones because the 3 pieces one isn´t air tight and the bong adapter doesn´t fit and I have to hold it. I think that with a silicone stem I wont have any air loose and it will make my WW indestructable, but how much will it ruin the flavour?. In any case if you could send me some of these I would appreciate a LOT! and some guidance for getting the most of my weed (I am a high temp vaporist)
I broke the one-piece glass tube. I am not getting used to the other ones because the 3 pieces one isn´t air tight and the bong adapter doesn´t fit and I have to hold it. I think that with a silicone stem I wont have any air loose and it will make my WW indestructable, but how much will it ruin the flavour?. In any case if you could send me some of these I would appreciate a LOT! and some guidance for getting the most of my weed (I am a high temp vaporist)
jardri
Vapor Dreams
This Wychwood is amazing with a pipe! I have bought a VPS and found that tasty sweet spot this thing has and it is an incredible one-hitter but I dont like it with the glass stem, the vapors are way too hot! I am using a dry waterpipe as cooler so I can take huge rips. Finally got even vaporization because I was adding too much herbs to the chamber this things works with quantities I wouldn´t bother in picking when making a joint if it fell on the table.
vorrange
Vapor.wise
What kind of pipe, a spoon pipe? Isn't there the same problem of leaking air as the 3-piece glass stem?
vorrange
Vapor.wise
oh, okay.. when you said waterpipe i imagined a hand pipe, not a bong. And i thought you were speaking of the all glass basic when you mentioned the 3-part stem.
Now i understand, you are using the gong adapter of the 2 part stem (all glass gong tube), on a percolator bong.
Glad you are getting good results with it,
Regarding your question for a good extraction, i answered the same question a few days ago in a conversation. Maybe it will help you too or maybe not..
My steps for good extraction with the WW:
1- Thouroughly grind my herbs
2- Suck the material into the stem like a straw
3- Fit the stem into the WW
4- Take a regular speed draw (sometimes i alternate between breathing with my nose and my mouth to change speeds a bit as that helps to rise the temperature, but i don't remove the mouth from the stem and i try not to exhale through my nose when i alternate)
5- Inhale some air, Hold for a few seconds, exhale a bit, inhale air again and exhale. (i do this slowly because it is easier on the throat)
6- Repeat 5 and 6 until no more vapor
7- Stir the bowl
8- Start reducing draw speed significantly until no more vapour
9- dump the bowl in my palm, crush the herbs a bit but not much, and put it in the stem again
10- repeat slow draws and alternate nose/mouth inhales as well as diaphram inhales.
11- Maintain the slow draws and breathing patterns and also pack the bowl a bit, with something to press it down carefully to not change the screen position.
All the while i check the colour of the abv.. they are usually light to dark brown when i finish.
vorrange
Vapor.wise
I usually don't think too much about time between hits.. i wait how much i want to and then hit it again.
There is no point in waiting more than 1 minute IMO.. i don't think the unit will take more than that to be at temp again but honestly i'm just talking by anedoctal evidence.. i've never really measured it.
To have huge rips, make sure you use a long, slow and steady draw, to maintain temperature.
There is no point in waiting more than 1 minute IMO.. i don't think the unit will take more than that to be at temp again but honestly i'm just talking by anedoctal evidence.. i've never really measured it.
To have huge rips, make sure you use a long, slow and steady draw, to maintain temperature.
Hey guys,
Been a while since I checked in. Nice to see some new WW users out there. jardri, no worries about the transfer of the warranty and sending stems to Spain.
That was a great use post Vorrange and basically identical to my technique, except I take my first hit then stir - the rest is the same. One thing that can make a big difference is the load size too. The more you put in the higher the restriction and the denser the hits - but you can easily go over board that way and cough a lung out!
UPDATE ON NEW CORE DESIGN
So the more I get into this redesign the more I'm changing the design and looking at other materials. I'm teaching myself some CAD (Computer Aided Design) right now because pencil and paper were just not cutting the mustard.
My aims for the new model are:
* To improve the quality without increasing the cost of the end product.
* To increase the longevity of the product and offer a longer warranty.
* To keep the design glue/silicone free. (edit)
* To make the unit easy to disassemble for thorough cleaning and maintenance.
* To make the heating element user replaceable.
* To totally seal off the wood from contact with metal.
So, where am I at? Right now I'm about 90% set on my current design. As I'm drafting it I'm making small tweaks here and there. I'm ditching the Basics size as they are too small imo. I'll be sticking approximately with the Specials size (10-11cm tall, 4.5-5cm dia). The new core design utilises hard ceramics to comprise a large part of the core, and still some stainless steel - I didn't want to get rid of the metal totally as I believe even a little can help for a slightly longer draw for.
I went for ceramic because of it's heat resistance and easy to clean properties. My idea is to make it so that the core can be removed in parts and the heating element removed separately. This will allow for thorough cleaning as the ceramic can be boiled or ISO soaked, the metal ISO soaked and the wood body unencumbered for some care and attention.
The ceramic parts have to be designed by me, put into a CAD format (getting there slowly!) and then made. Then I'll have to prototype, test and tweak. So, realistically it's still a way to go before I'll be ready with it - but I am on it
So, I understand that some people might be on the fence about getting one of the current WW designs with the promise of a new and improved one around the corner....so, I'm going to leave a 25% discount on all Wychwood Kits till the new design is ready to go. That should motivate me a bit to get my rear in gear!!!
Been a while since I checked in. Nice to see some new WW users out there. jardri, no worries about the transfer of the warranty and sending stems to Spain.
That was a great use post Vorrange and basically identical to my technique, except I take my first hit then stir - the rest is the same. One thing that can make a big difference is the load size too. The more you put in the higher the restriction and the denser the hits - but you can easily go over board that way and cough a lung out!
UPDATE ON NEW CORE DESIGN
So the more I get into this redesign the more I'm changing the design and looking at other materials. I'm teaching myself some CAD (Computer Aided Design) right now because pencil and paper were just not cutting the mustard.
My aims for the new model are:
* To improve the quality without increasing the cost of the end product.
* To increase the longevity of the product and offer a longer warranty.
* To keep the design glue/silicone free. (edit)
* To make the unit easy to disassemble for thorough cleaning and maintenance.
* To make the heating element user replaceable.
* To totally seal off the wood from contact with metal.
So, where am I at? Right now I'm about 90% set on my current design. As I'm drafting it I'm making small tweaks here and there. I'm ditching the Basics size as they are too small imo. I'll be sticking approximately with the Specials size (10-11cm tall, 4.5-5cm dia). The new core design utilises hard ceramics to comprise a large part of the core, and still some stainless steel - I didn't want to get rid of the metal totally as I believe even a little can help for a slightly longer draw for.
I went for ceramic because of it's heat resistance and easy to clean properties. My idea is to make it so that the core can be removed in parts and the heating element removed separately. This will allow for thorough cleaning as the ceramic can be boiled or ISO soaked, the metal ISO soaked and the wood body unencumbered for some care and attention.
The ceramic parts have to be designed by me, put into a CAD format (getting there slowly!) and then made. Then I'll have to prototype, test and tweak. So, realistically it's still a way to go before I'll be ready with it - but I am on it
So, I understand that some people might be on the fence about getting one of the current WW designs with the promise of a new and improved one around the corner....so, I'm going to leave a 25% discount on all Wychwood Kits till the new design is ready to go. That should motivate me a bit to get my rear in gear!!!
wonderfox
Active Member
Was wondering where you'd gotten to! Very excited to hear a bit more about the new core in time. Really like the idea of an easily disassembled design, easy to clean to maintain and in turn preserving the unit's life, with the added bonus of taking it on holiday without having to worry about smells/traces. Glad to hear you've been busy working on an improved WW. My current unit works perfectly so I'll be interested to see how the new cores perform compared. No doubt as soon as it's available I'll be comparing the two myself
jardri
Vapor Dreams
Thank you Cookie I really appreciate that! I have been solving all my issues with my wychwood now going much better. Didn´t like the short glass stem because it went too hot so I rustically made myself a long thick glass stem and now I get fresh tasty vapor.
Vorrange which voltage do you use?
An finally how often do you apply wax on your WW´s?
vorrange
Vapor.wise
Thanks for the kind words Cookie, i apreciate it! It is always nice to help fellow vaporists and wychwood brothers!
And thank you for the update on the new design, it looks promising for sure. Keep it up! I've been studying a bit of AutoCAD and Inventor myself because of work, good luck to that. It will eventually make it easier for your purposes, but starting is a pain in the ass.
Do you expect the new core to improve on the ability to maintain temperature for longer draws or are you aiming to keep it similar to the current models?
It depends really.. sometimes i start low like 11,5V for the taste and i increment in 0,5V intervals until 13V, sometimes i go to 13,5V for one last hit but i don't do it often because i don't want to damage the heating element (too much!).
When i want to have a fast session with 1-2 milky hits through my Ehle, i put it at 13V and hit it until no more vapour.
Most times i start at 12V for almost the entire session, when the vapour starts to thin out i rise to 12,5V and then finish at 13V.
I still use the non-VV source most of the times though.
About the Wax, i don't know if i'm the best to speak about this since i never bothered to learn much about when and how to do it.. i remember a video from Vitolo (always present, thanks Vito. You should start the CVU, Cannabis Vaporization University. Straight from Youtube to the world,
) about taking care of your logs, and i went from there.I usually start to feel the wood is drier and i can feel the texture a bit more. Also, after a while, the shine that is present after you wax starts to fade and the log gets a little, less shiny..
When this happens i wax again.
Bear in mind that my WW is in pine wood and it is very light brown, almost yellow, and when i wax it, you can see golden veins when the sunlight hits.
Hope it helps somewhat.
