What box mod are you using / recommending for on-demand convection 510 vapes?

[bossman]

heya. new LV drone dna250c (thanks for the goading/heads up @bossman)
so:
franked. herbie splinterz profile.
extended puff time in safety to 20s. but it still seems to cut at 10s. the SCREEN still reads as firing, but the led color sweep on the button stops.
You'd mentioned setting in TWO tabs, I only see it once.
thoughts?

Sorry yeah, I knew this was a bullshit hidden tweak that should be added to whatever quick start guide us dna-c snobs would be using in a more perfect world:

The first place to increase Max Puff Time is under the Safety tab, but there's a second hidden place....

In the top menu of escribe go to Options > User Interface > and make sure there's a check by Manufacturer. That will reveal some settings in the Mod tab of the main window and under safety there's a second place to up the max puff time.

Thanks to @HerbieVonVapster or whoever brought that to my attention initially.

 

[eideal852]

Sorry yeah, I knew this was a bullshit hidden tweak that should be added to whatever quick start guide us dna-c snobs would be using in a more perfect world:

The first place to increase Max Puff Time is under the Safety tab, but there's a second hidden place....

In the top menu of escribe go to Options > User Interface > and make sure there's a check by Manufacturer. That will reveal some settings in the Mod tab of the main window and under safety there's a second place to up the max puff time.

Thanks to @HerbieVonVapster or whoever brought that to my attention initially.

Ahhhhh there it is. That was it. Light show (and heat!) for the 20
Ok. Next. Lock the resistance as sampled cold? (.35 v1Z and .40 usZ) or tweak?
For both i nudged up a biiiit (to .365 and .41) which seems conservative unless it’s real critical, then maybe it’s way too much. I have to admit, I’m a dipshit. But it seemed to cloud quicker.

 

[bossman]

Ahhhhh there it is. That was it. Light show (and heat!) for the 20
Ok. Next. Lock the resistance as sampled cold? (.35 v1Z and .40 usZ) or tweak?
For both i nudged up a biiiit (to .365 and .41) which seems conservative unless it’s real critical, then maybe it’s way too much. I have to admit, I’m a dipshit. But it seemed to cloud quicker.

Resistance unlocked for DNAc mods is what I recall Herbie saying. And yeah I nudge up the resistance on my Zs. The best part of a Z on a DNAc mod is that you can tweak the resistance until you have the performance you want from a given temperature range.

You should always have the potential for rapid extraction with no hot spots. Slower extraction with more flavor hits should just be as easy as lowering the temp from there.

The two quirks that make this a bit confusing are 1) the Z isn't really showing you how it extracts until it's warmed up, and 2) all my Zs run hotter with fully charged cells and take a bit more encouragement as they drain.

I guess it's fair to add a third quirk: all my Splinters seem more amped up with the brown LG HG2 cells and generally speaking performance is different for a given Z/mod combo with different cells. I can see where these variables might be confusing to some. For me the different experience of wattage versus TC is already a positive and fine tuning TC with a just the two levers of resistance and temperature has yielded great results with all my Splinters.

 

[cybrguy]

I have not been able to set up my Drone to perform as well as my VT75D. I suspect I am not configuring it properly, but I haven't yet figured out I am doing wrong. I have tried with the same setup as the VT75D, and with a higher coil resistance and I'm just not there yet. The Drone uses a DNA250c and the VT uses a DNA75c so I wouldn't be surprised if the ideal config is different.
Of course, it COULD be the Zv2 vs the Custom Z, the former being on the Drone, but I'm thinking it is more how I have the Drone set up. Many have said their Zv2s perform at least as well as the Custom Z so I doubt that is the problem.
Time will tell...

 

[bossman]

I have not been able to set up my Drone to perform as well as my VT75D. I suspect I am not configuring it properly, but I haven't yet figured out I am doing wrong. I have tried with the same setup as the VT75D, and with a higher coil resistance and I'm just not there yet. The Drone uses a DNA250c and the VT uses a DNA75c so I wouldn't be surprised if the ideal config is different.
Of course, it COULD be the Zv2 vs the Custom Z, the former being on the Drone, but I'm thinking it is more how I have the Drone set up. Many have said their Zv2s perform at least as well as the Custom Z so I doubt that is the problem.
Time will tell...

Yeah my VT75D with the bubinga custom Z is super fast now. It's running quite hot since I put the HG2s from Liion Wholesale in it but I enjoy it so much I haven't changed anything.

With no preheat and the resistance nudged down from .39 to .37 it still hits right away at 320° and caches a bowl in three or four hits without going past 340°.

I have two Drone Z combos in play now and the settings for each are definitely specific to the Z. The amber one has my ZV1 and has the most open draw, which I quite like. The wenge is on the matte black Drone and is the most restricted Z, which I also really like.

Just work the unlocked resistance and temps until you get what you want from your Drone ZV2 combo. I sometimes allow 50 or 55W max for TC instead of the 45 or 50 the ecigprofile is set for these days.

 

[eideal852]

Yeah my VT75D with the bubinga custom Z is super fast now. It's running quite hot since I put the HG2s from Liion Wholesale in it but I enjoy it so much I haven't changed anything.

With no preheat and the resistance nudged down from .39 to .37 it still hits right away at 320° and caches a bowl in three or four hits without going past 340°.

I have two Drone Z combos in play now and the settings for each are definitely specific to the Z. The amber one has my ZV1 and has the most open draw, which I quite like. The wenge is on the matte black Drone and is the most restricted Z, which I also really like.

Just work the unlocked resistance and temps until you get what you want from your Drone ZV2 combo. I sometimes allow 50 or 55W max for TC instead of the 45 or 50 the ecigprofile is set for these days.

Mmmkay. So I unlocked the resistance and liked it, but it was mid bowl, so not sure if I started clouding because I was warmed up, or unlocked.

so your saying nudge the ohms up or down, but once you do, keep unlocked?
And is nudge up or down better? Or which is which? (Up hotter down cooler or vice versa?) I’m DEFINITEY not producing, other than clear term hits, until deeper into the “session” which isn’t how I want to use it.

I’m liking the “cached in 3-4” you speak of...

 

[YaMon]

Mmmkay. So I unlocked the resistance and liked it, but it was mid bowl, so not sure if I started clouding because I was warmed up, or unlocked.

so your saying nudge the ohms up or down, but once you do, keep unlocked?
And is nudge up or down better? Or which is which? (Up hotter down cooler or vice versa?) I’m DEFINITEY not producing, other than clear term hits, until deeper into the “session” which isn’t how I want to use it.

I’m liking the “cached in 3-4” you speak of...

Resistance up for hotter and down for cooler. Definitely lock the resistance.

 

[eideal852]

Resistance up for hotter and down for cooler. Definitely lock the resistance.

Shit. Confused again.
Locked is what i thought, but Bossman is my dna Shidoshi, hows a poll?

DNAc users:
Locked resistnce or let it ride?
Sample cold and leave it or nudge it?

 

[YaMon]

Shit. Confused again.
Locked is what i thought, but Bossman is my dna Shidoshi, hows a poll?

DNAc users:
Locked resistnce or let it ride?
Sample cold and leave it or nudge it?

Not that time consuming or difficult to prove me wrong/right. Bump your resistance up by 0.05 and lock it, how's the heat now? Adjust accordingly.

 

[eideal852]

Not that time consuming or difficult to prove me wrong/right. Bump your resistance up by 0.05 and lock it, how's the heat now? Adjust accordingly.

Sorry, not trying to push back, I indeed know nada.
Problem is, as it warms up, i can’t tell if the resistance adjustments/lock led or not are making the difference vs just more heat soaked.

 

[YaMon]

Sorry, not trying to push back, I indeed know nada.
Problem is, as it warms up, i can’t tell if the resistance adjustments/lock led or not are making the difference vs just more heat soaked.

Heat soaked I get, but that only goes so far. Not getting clouds in TC mode, increase the locked resistance until you do. The temperatures are interpolated using an algorithm taking into consideration the measured resistance and the material file. The locked resistance is the start line, which is why you should start by measuring this cold. However I have found with both my Splinter Zs (Custom and a V1) that I have had to increase the resistance to achieve what I perceive is 385-400 F. The custom required just a touch more.

 

[eideal852]

Heat soaked I get, but that only goes so far. Not getting clouds in TC mode, increase the locked resistance until you do. The temperatures are interpolated using an algorithm taking into consideration the measured resistance and the material file. The locked resistance is the start line, which is why you should start by measuring this cold. However I have found with both my Splinter Zs (Custom and a V1) that I have had to increase the resistance to achieve what I perceive is 385-400 F. The custom required just a touch more.

Maybe that’s all. Just wary of moving any of that tbh. I guess it’ll result in a poor experience (scorch or nothing at all) before its DANGEROUS?

 

[bossman]

Maybe that’s all. Just wary of moving any of that tbh. I guess it’ll result in a poor experience (scorch or nothing at all) before its DANGEROUS?

Maybe I should try locking my DNAc mods to see how it performs.

@eideal852 for you the process is the same with the exception of deciding whether to lock or not. Nudging the resistance higher from .39 to .40 to .41 or whatever but it's true that heat soaking changes things so every cold start is like a "is this one cranked enough for me?" situation and then eventually it is. At that point I only see slow starts when the batteries get low. I've been charging my Splinter batteries in the mod, which these DNA250C boards are supposed to be pretty good at and I seldom go under 70%.

Mine occupy a wide range from the bubinga custom at .36 now to the ZV1 which I had at .475 before the brown HG2 cells arrived.

 

[eideal852]

Maybe I should try locking my DNAc mods to see how it performs.

@eideal852 for you the process is the same with the exception of deciding whether to lock or not. Nudging the resistance higher from .39 to .40 to .41 or whatever but it's true that heat soaking changes things so every cold start is like a "is this one cranked enough for me?" situation and then eventually it is.

Aha. That’s fine but good to know.

At that point I only see slow starts when the batteries get low. I've been charging my Splinter batteries in the mod, which these DNA250C boards are supposed to be pretty good at and I seldom go under 70%.

i was gonna ask you this. The battery cover/battery removal is clunky on and off so that’s great.

Mine occupy a wide range from the bubinga custom at .36 now to the ZV1 which I had at .475 before the brown HG2 cells arrived.

Oh word? Mine “sample” opposite cold sample custom at .40 v1z at .35. .

 

[bossman]

Oh word? Mine “sample” opposite cold sample custom at .40 v1z at .35. .

Yeah, I'm sure that whole wide range is fine between different Zs. I'd only clarify to say that no individual splinter has that much flexibility without serious combustion risk. When I accept cold resistance for a new splinter I might add .01 or .02 but it's not like I have a Z that reads .39 and I end up using it at .44. Even my ZV1 that was so high at first was just because that was the cold reading.

And more on topic for this box mod thread I'm surprised at how much faster and more aggressive the heating is with these new HG2 cells from Liion Wholesale. They're not even my first HG2, just a re-up from a different seller and I find myself lowering the resistance on every mod I use them with because they clearly don't need it that high anymore.

 

[eideal852]

Yeah, I'm sure that whole wide range is fine between different Zs. I'd only clarify to say that no individual splinter has that much flexibility without serious combustion risk. When I accept cold resistance for a new splinter I might add .01 or .02 but it's not like I have a Z that reads .39 and I end up using it at .44. Even my ZV1 that was so high at first was just because that was the cold reading.

And more on topic for this box mod thread I'm surprised at how much faster and more aggressive the heating is with these new HG2 cells from Liion Wholesale. They're not even my first HG2, just a re-up from a different seller and I find myself lowering the resistance on every mod I use them with because they clearly don't need it that high anymore.

I’ll have to get some. My “newest” (strongest? Healthiest?) batts (!) are my two hg2 I bought w my Mi2 last year. Until this drone (first 2 battery mod) they only alternated on the Mi, which may be worse for them. Dunno.

 

[cybrguy]

I have been having a little trouble getting the results I want from my Drone, but after locking the resistance over the weekend it seems to be working better for me on my Zv2. It will take a little while of use to be sure, but it seems an improvement so far. At the moment it is locked at .410.

 

[eideal852]

I have been having a little trouble getting the results I want from my Drone, but after locking the resistance over the weekend it seems to be working better for me on my Zv2. It will take a little while of use to be sure, but it seems an improvement so far. At the moment it is locked at .410.

where does it sample at cold?

 

[cybrguy]

Last I checked it it was .404. I don't use it during the day, but I just checked it again and it chose .402. I think the ambient temp in the room is a little cooler than last time I checked it.

 

[bossman]

I have been having a little trouble getting the results I want from my Drone, but after locking the resistance over the weekend it seems to be working better for me on my Zv2. It will take a little while of use to be sure, but it seems an improvement so far. At the moment it is locked at .410.

That's good to know about the locked resistance. I wonder if Herbie will wander back to enlighten us at some point; I could have sworn he said to to leave it unlocked.

How are you using it and what's the performance like? For my ZV2 I'll typically shoot for a TC preheat just out of laziness so I'll hold the fire button for five seconds once or twice in the 400°+ range even though I seldom start there. Sometimes I'll go for a first hit with a higher temperature like that just to get things going. If the batteries are charged up I typically won't need to offer any encouragement beyond that and it'll pretty quickly reach peak performance.

With your Drone combo (as with any Z combo really) I'd be cheating up the resistance to see how fast/aggressive I can make the heater without hotspots. If .41 was only producing dense hits over 400° I'd bump it to .418 or .420 and see how 370 to 390° performs there.

Another tweak I'll make is to up the max wattage in TC from 45 to 50 or 55W. I'm not sure it makes a difference but it does make my V1 and V2s produce denser hits without hotspots so I think I've just carried the habit over to my DNAc Splinters.

I have yet to learn the effects of the hard/soft preheat setting in all this config bullshit. I just looked and I have one Drone with a 50W preheat with Boost at 6 and Warmth at 5 while the wenge Drone combo has preheat disabled and still gets going plenty quick. Edit: disregard, I was looking at wattage on the second Drone. In TC the preheat is the same default from the ecigprofile like the rest.

And I just noticed my bubinga VT75D combo has preheat set to 65W so combined with the HG2s hitting different maybe that's why it's been such a rapid extraction beast.

I’ll have to get some. My “newest” (strongest? Healthiest?) batts (!) are my two hg2 I bought w my Mi2 last year. Until this drone (first 2 battery mod) they only alternated on the Mi, which may be worse for them. Dunno.

I'm gonna treat that abbreviation like a fart and pretend it didn't happen. How's the Drone Z setup working for you so far?

 

[eideal852]

That's good to know about the locked resistance. I wonder if Herbie will wander back to enlighten us at some point; I could have sworn he said to to leave it unlocked.

How are you using it and what's the performance like? For my ZV2 I'll typically shoot for a TC preheat just out of laziness so I'll hold the fire button for five seconds once or twice in the 400°+ range even though I seldom start there. Sometimes I'll go for a first hit with a higher temperature like that just to get things going. If the batteries are charged up I typically won't need to offer any encouragement beyond that and it'll pretty quickly reach peak performance.

With your Drone combo (as with any Z combo really) I'd be cheating up the resistance to see how fast/aggressive I can make the heater without hotspots. If .41 was only producing dense hits over 400° I'd bump it to .418 or .420 and see how 370 to 390° performs there.

Another tweak I'll make is to up the max wattage in TC from 45 to 50 or 55W. I'm not sure it makes a difference but it does make my V1 and V2s produce denser hits without hotspots so I think I've just carried the habit over to my DNAc Splinters.

I have yet to learn the effects of the hard/soft preheat setting in all this config bullshit. I just looked and I have one Drone with a 50W preheat with Boost at 6 and Warmth at 5 while the wenge Drone combo has preheat disabled and still gets going plenty quick.

And I just noticed my bubinga VT75D combo has preheat set to 65W so combined with the HG2s hitting different maybe that's why it's been such a rapid extraction beast.


I'm gonna treat that abbreviation like a fart and pretend it didn't happen. How's the Drone Z setup working for you so far?

no need to pretend, doubt ill ever type either batts (!) or batteries here again without thinking of you... (though not sure I even understand the issue)

So far so good, still tweaking. - at least, changing the resistance UP by .01-.02 (say from .40 to .41/.42).

That second safety spot (manufaturer) was good, that over ten is great (release/ repress boosts again, yea?)
im rocking a pretty purple Cherry Slurpee Hybrid, so ABV harder to read (cest la vie) purple-browned vs green to browned.

 

[bossman]

no need to pretend, doubt ill ever type either batts (!) or batteries here again without thinking of you... (though not sure I even understand the issue)

So far so good, still tweaking. - at least, changing the resistance UP by .01-.02 (say from .40 to .41/.42).

That second safety spot (manufaturer) was good, that over ten is great (release/ repress boosts again, yea?)
im rocking a pretty purple Cherry Slurpee Hybrid, so ABV harder to read (cest la vie) purple-browned vs green to browned.

Yeah, I had some Forbidden Fruit a while back that was purple and hard to read the same way.

One thing I suspect keeps some folks from digging their Splinter Zs early on is not going for long slower hits in the ten to twenty second range, especially for the first bowl when the heat soak is in progress. In the early going I'll also hit the fire button and be slow to start the hit since I recall how the actual displayed temp on my rxg3d always needs a headstart.

 

[eideal852]

Yeah, I had some Forbidden Fruit a while back that was purple and hard to read the same way.

One thing I suspect keeps some folks from digging their Splinter Zs early on is not going for long slower hits in the ten to twenty second range, especially for the first bowl when the heat soak is in progress. In the early going I'll also hit the fire button and be slow to start the hit since I recall how the actual displayed temp on my rxg3d always needs a headstart.

That’s a good question. Are you multiple stems everytime w the Z/ dna combos? I tend to be one for now, back again later: though I admit that the SECOND stem is such a joy that I’ll often overindulge simply because I dont want to waste the warm up.

 

[bossman]

That’s a good question. Are you multiple stems everytime w the Z/ dna combos? I tend to be one for now, back again later: though I admit that the SECOND stem is such a joy that I’ll often overindulge simply because I dont want to waste the warm up.

Same here. It's probably why I'm so particular about cranked DNAc mods. TC is the fussier way to fly from a warmup standpoint but I love how the vapor just jumps right out without taking things toasty until you step the temp up.

 

[cybrguy]

I usually preheat for 10 seconds or so, then heat soak the load, then start hitting. Usually works pretty well. Still works noticeably better with the VT75D.