deadheadbill
I can see clearly now the smoke is gone...
I do the same thing with ethanol, achieves the same result.
Ways to purge bho properly
- Thread starter Edward Hyde
- Start date
I do the same thing with ethanol, achieves the same result.
Bon Dog
Well-Known Member
a few tips i have stumbled on since making bho
- keep the water temp around 115 (F), sometimes it requires a bit more heat. increase in increments of like 10-20 degrees (F) but don't go over like 170
- instead of changing water u can try using the stove (not a gas stove) or a crock pot on and use a meat thermometer
- personally if i cant get all the butane out under 130 - 150 (F) i will redissolve in iso (sometimes winterize while im at it) and evaporate... iso takes longer to evap but seems to purge easer (i dont have a working vac pump anymore so i do this somewhat often lol)
- ill usually pop the bubbles with the razor blade i will use to scrape with (wont lose any of dat bho)
thetrufeisty
Member
Ever extract artist I know will tell you low and slow and vac it longgggg time(in best short round voice).
Also something I have learned and am going to try this time in my new stainless steel tube(via BB&B) is freeze/chill the tube and warm the butane can. Now I'm not saying put fire to your cans by ANY means. Some have a sink warm water to sit the cans in and some sit them in the sun just for a bit.
Any science teacher or chemistry book will tell u a gas will try to seek cold if warm. When you release the butane into the cold tube the butane wants to grab to the cold plant material and well u know the rest. But this works the very best with a closed loop system but it has been showing promises with open systems too it helps the butane to stay on the material longer.
Also something I have learned and am going to try this time in my new stainless steel tube(via BB&B) is freeze/chill the tube and warm the butane can. Now I'm not saying put fire to your cans by ANY means. Some have a sink warm water to sit the cans in and some sit them in the sun just for a bit.
Any science teacher or chemistry book will tell u a gas will try to seek cold if warm. When you release the butane into the cold tube the butane wants to grab to the cold plant material and well u know the rest. But this works the very best with a closed loop system but it has been showing promises with open systems too it helps the butane to stay on the material longer.
Im a total newb who has only made 3 or so runs but so far the best method was spraying 1 vector can per 7gs bud into a stainless steel baster then sprays into a fairly large pyrex dish (7×9 maybe) that is in a larger pyrex filled with hot water and I make sure it stays hot so much so that I cant keep my finger in the water. Once all the bubbles stop forming I pop the remains, leave it in the oven on the lowest temp for 10 or so mins then before scraping I toss it into the freezer wait for it ti freeze then scrape up the herb frost which turns to nice budder once formed and the water evaporates..... if you wanna do it right, roll ur wax in kief and smoke a rice ball
aesthyrian
Blaaaaah
1 can per 7g of herb is a waste, you just end up waiting for more butane to be purged off, with little extra yield. I would just do one run with maybe half the can, and then save that herb and do a whole run of second run together.
And wax rolled in kief.. Most of use are trying to avoid contaminants such a plant matter. Dabbing that would be no fun at all.
Take care.
And wax rolled in kief.. Most of use are trying to avoid contaminants such a plant matter. Dabbing that would be no fun at all.
Take care.
I really just wanna run it til it runs clear then ill stop. But wow hating on the 'rice balls' and I thought I wad a vape snob lol jk. It works phenomenonally males it much easier to handle as well. Maybe because I used so much tane on the 1st run and got such a nice yield is why the 2nd run herb got such a pitiful yield
smokum
I am who I am and your approval isn't needed!
Royal Jelly (concentrate rolled in kief) is more for combusters to hit in a bowl, although I agree it does make for easier handling and it 'could' be finger pressed thin and used in a vape sandwich (which I enjoy because it adds such a nice flowery taste to it).
As mentioned, too much 'tane for 7g (general rule is 1 can per 1 oz), and I'd rather collect lightly sprayed goods for a future 2nd spray or qwiso down the road instead of adding to the extra purging needed (and wasted 'tane = $) by using more than necessary.
As mentioned, too much 'tane for 7g (general rule is 1 can per 1 oz), and I'd rather collect lightly sprayed goods for a future 2nd spray or qwiso down the road instead of adding to the extra purging needed (and wasted 'tane = $) by using more than necessary.
aesthyrian
Blaaaaah
^Exactly, and this way when you collect enough material that has already been run once you can actually get a worthwhile yield when you run in all a second time since there will be so much material to compensate for the lower levels of active compounds left over after the first run.
I used to just use a whole can of 'tane no matter what, my mindset was 'tane is somewhat affordable and I rather buy more 'tane waste some but get everything I can out of the plant. Then the more often I began to run 'tane I realized how the extra 'tane was just costing me more $, making my overall product lower quality, and taking much longer to purge fully. I noticed more waxes in the product from the extra 'tane soak aswell.
I used to just use a whole can of 'tane no matter what, my mindset was 'tane is somewhat affordable and I rather buy more 'tane waste some but get everything I can out of the plant. Then the more often I began to run 'tane I realized how the extra 'tane was just costing me more $, making my overall product lower quality, and taking much longer to purge fully. I noticed more waxes in the product from the extra 'tane soak aswell.
Richy
Frequently up in space with Bowie
I know it's a little off-topic from the thread title but since you guys are talking about it. How much high quality trim (little leaves with a decent amount of crystals) would you recommend for a 90ml can? Also how much ABV if I do an ABV run? I'm guessing I can just multiply up these figures if I end up getting 250ml cans. Any help is much appreciated.
kingtut106
Well-Known Member
I go with the boiling water method in a double boiler setup. If you have an electric stove you can plug it in and you can do it outside. Just keep the water at a simmer and let it go until no more bubbles appear.
vaporonly
living in a van down by the river
achieves better result for the simple reason that ethanol that has not been denatured is food grade and edible while iso is toxic. simple evaping off isn't going to completely purge the oil of ISO or ethanol for the same reasons the butane gets trapped but at least ethanol is meant for human consumption.
i personally can't stand the smell of iso when working with it either...
to answer this thread, IMO the lowest tech way to purge properly goes like this: blast, dissolve into ethanol, double boil down, add more ethanol, winterize, evap or double boil down
Snake Plissken
Transcendentalist
I use a 3 stage process to purge the butane. I typically run about 6 tubes (1-1 1/2 oz capacity) per run, so I have to time things so that everything is finishing off in the same container (to avoid losing product in the staging jars). I run the tubes into quart mason jars, placing them into a hot water bath (replacing water to maintain heat). As these jars evaporate enough, I pour them off into a single widemouth pint jar - also in a hot water bath and on a heating pad. This smaller jar will evaporate much more quickly than the larger jars not on a heating pad, allowing for a good work flow. after all of the larger jars have been added to the pint jar on the heating pad, I let that evaporate off as much as it will. I then take this inside to finish off in boiling water stirring constantly with a straightened safety pin bent at the end. once all butane has finished evaporating, I put the jar in the freezer for about 15 minutes - this seems to give it a better consistency for the life of the product. I can now put a lid on the small jar to help preserve it and being widemouth, it is super easy to get at. The whole process can be completed in about an hour and a half - turning around a 1/2lb of flowers into something the size of a baby's fist. Pretty low tech, but effective and minimal startup gear.
WaterBongs
New Member
Maybe I do it a ghetto way also or something, but on the off-chance I have enough starting material to make my own, I pack the glass extracter with about 7g to 14g of mostly ground nugs/shake/and small chunks, cover with a coffee filter and a steel mesh if I'm being careful, and bring out some boiling water pouring it in a pan under a fresh pyrex. A while after the bubbling stops I just shoot the tube into the open floating pyrex dish, with Power 5x butane. I'll change the water maybe two to three times at most to maintain some heat, and that's usually it. I pop the bubbles as time goes by.
I sometimes take out the pyrex, dry off the bottom, and put on a heating pad. I usually scrape it out maybe within 45 minutes, and then let it sit in a parchment for a few days and it usually turns into shatter or badass sap. The flavor is always on point and actually better than most I've tasted, although my yields aren't the greatest lol. I did notice however that it is a lot more potent and goes way longer then even some well made shatters I've purchased. I've tried putting the pyrex in the oven for a little or some jazz after the initial baths/optional heating pad, it didn't seem to improve things that much though. The freezer will make it shattery in no time. I kind of like it at room temperature though or even a little heated up, makes it pliable.
I sometimes take out the pyrex, dry off the bottom, and put on a heating pad. I usually scrape it out maybe within 45 minutes, and then let it sit in a parchment for a few days and it usually turns into shatter or badass sap. The flavor is always on point and actually better than most I've tasted, although my yields aren't the greatest lol. I did notice however that it is a lot more potent and goes way longer then even some well made shatters I've purchased. I've tried putting the pyrex in the oven for a little or some jazz after the initial baths/optional heating pad, it didn't seem to improve things that much though. The freezer will make it shattery in no time. I kind of like it at room temperature though or even a little heated up, makes it pliable.
Trichoma
Member
Mastering the purge ==> Mastering the sexy oil
Trichoma
Member
Haze that truly is nice 
I wish I had this on my batch of PG mix for my new E-VOD customizer. The Kanger Evod tank catros are fantastic for the thick stuff. My concentrates are not anything near to this picture.
Sorry back to this thread, I think the best purging without the pump (witch is the best winterizing method) is time. Just my humble onion. as long as you have time and mass let time take out the butane. I spread my out like in this photo Haze has and wait 2 weeks and its fantastic. Remember that first purge is most important. make sure the butane bubbles out using a the boiling butane method. Every batch that I have seen to finish "golden" has used warm water under glass pan. Time is most important.
I wish I had this on my batch of PG mix for my new E-VOD customizer. The Kanger Evod tank catros are fantastic for the thick stuff. My concentrates are not anything near to this picture.Sorry back to this thread, I think the best purging without the pump (witch is the best winterizing method) is time. Just my humble onion. as long as you have time and mass let time take out the butane. I spread my out like in this photo Haze has and wait 2 weeks and its fantastic. Remember that first purge is most important. make sure the butane bubbles out using a the boiling butane method. Every batch that I have seen to finish "golden" has used warm water under glass pan. Time is most important.
So ive been looking on amazon for vac purge chambers with a vacuum to purchase. Does anyone have any recommendations for me? im fairly newbie so im not sure which vac to purchase with which chamber honestly
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002DMZA2G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2PH8WIYKKNKYR
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000TQ2Y8G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2PH8WIYKKNKYR
what else would I need to go with this unit other than a chamber? what sort of other tubing?
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002DMZA2G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2PH8WIYKKNKYR
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000TQ2Y8G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2PH8WIYKKNKYR
what else would I need to go with this unit other than a chamber? what sort of other tubing?
MileHighLife
Blower of glass, grower of grass
Kind of an old thread but thought I'd answer your question in case you were still looking for a vac chamber. I was using a pressure cooker till I got a chamber from best value vacs on eBay. Thing is quality ...only thing i could see failing in the next year or so would be the gasket that seals the lid to the chamber and I've talked with the manufacturer and they are releasing a new silicon gasket for the lids in the next couple of weeks which he says is indestructible.
Check em out they've got kits with everything you need for around $200 I think.
Check em out they've got kits with everything you need for around $200 I think.
vaporonly
living in a van down by the river
Haze that truly is nice
Sorry back to this thread, I think the best purging without the pump (witch is the best winterizing method) is time. Just my humble onion. as long as you have time and mass let time take out the butane. I spread my out like in this photo Haze has and wait 2 weeks and its fantastic. Remember that first purge is most important. make sure the butane bubbles out using a the boiling butane method. Every batch that I have seen to finish "golden" has used warm water under glass pan. Time is most important.
just a small detail: vacuum purging isn't winterizing, winterizing is removing plant waxes by dissolving bho in ethanol and then freezing and filtering
2clicker
Observer
i do everclear extractions and really want to improve my oil. i was curious about vac purging... is it only needed for butane use or will a vac help purge my EC extractions?
i currently filter with gold tone coffee filter, followed by an unbleached paper filter, and then evap. after that i winterize in more EC and repeat the two step filtering and evap. while evaping i use a portable hot plate, with an oil slick pad directly on the cooking surface, with my pyrex dish sitting on top of the OSP. all while using a fan to blow over the top of the dish. not sure what temp or long to heat purge...
will vac purging help me?
also how hot do i want my pyrex/hot plate to be when heat purging?
i currently filter with gold tone coffee filter, followed by an unbleached paper filter, and then evap. after that i winterize in more EC and repeat the two step filtering and evap. while evaping i use a portable hot plate, with an oil slick pad directly on the cooking surface, with my pyrex dish sitting on top of the OSP. all while using a fan to blow over the top of the dish. not sure what temp or long to heat purge...
will vac purging help me?
also how hot do i want my pyrex/hot plate to be when heat purging?
MileHighLife
Blower of glass, grower of grass
I believe its 220 degrees F that THC decarboxilates so I'd stay below that. I've only ever made bho so can't help you on your other question.
vaporonly
living in a van down by the river
boiling point of ethanol is like 78C which then rises slowly to the bp of water as more and more is boiled off
what is the expectation that the vac purging will help with? normally purging is to get rid of the last of the solvent, not really to 'improve' the oil. <--i say 'improve' in the sense of making it higher quality.
IMO vac purging is only necessary for toxic solvents, not really needed food grade ethanol.
winterizing an oil made with ethanol in ethanol isn't really very effective like it would be with an oil made with butane or other aggressive non-polar solvent.
to improve ethanol extracts you should focus on the temp and the time of the extract. while safe, ethanol extractions are going to be limited by the potential of ethanol as a solvent.
all that filtering could be stealing your final product!
2clicker
Observer
this is the kind of feedback that i was looking for! shit makes total sense about the purging. i suppose i can stop going through all of that and just make sure its all evapd.
however, winterizing it still should help tho right? say i do the wash too long and get waxes and stuff in there. wouldnt winterization remedy that?
and when you say "limited by the potential of ethanol as a solvent" do you mean it wont get as much of the goodies as butane does? wouldnt the time length of the wash determine that?
thanks everyone! good shit
however, winterizing it still should help tho right? say i do the wash too long and get waxes and stuff in there. wouldnt winterization remedy that?
and when you say "limited by the potential of ethanol as a solvent" do you mean it wont get as much of the goodies as butane does? wouldnt the time length of the wash determine that?
thanks everyone! good shit
vaporonly
living in a van down by the river
winterizing a butane oil works because butane is an aggressive non-polar solvent that extracts plant waxes easily. when you winterize it in ethanol (less aggressive, polar) those waxes fall out of the solution and can be filtered. this happens because of the differences between butane and ethanol. winterizing an ethanol extract in ethanol doesn't really allow for enough of a difference to have things fall out of solution. i'm not saying it won't do anything, but i'm not sure it does enough to justify doing it.
yes I mean that butane will extract more of the things you want and less of the things you don't...ethanol will bring over chlorophyll for example because ethanol is polar. this is why shorter washes are used with ethanol.