Kief
Medicated
Yes, that will work.
Discontinued VRIPtech Heating Wand
- Thread starter stonemonkey55
- Start date
-
- Tags
- all glass airpath
Yes, that will work.
Good stuff Vrip family thanks for keeping Sunny Hours dialed in --- yeah bro the upper intakes are the same for both the 14.4mm and 18.8mm bowls so in theory the same upper intake could be used for either, BUT, and this is the big BUT....the glass supply situation in N. America, the World for that matter, has made it virtually impossible for us to rely on one supplier and one manufacturer's glass consistently and even using the exact same manufacturers' glass the tubing is deviating more than the tubing we built this company on used to deviate. So given our product model that creates an issue with guaranteeing on-going modular compatibility. As a result we have stopped selling the individual bowls and intakes and are now only selling matched pairs. On the surface this may seem like it sucks, but once you do the math on what it costs to order just a bowl / intake or to order a complete chamber you realize that it really makes more sense to always order a complete chamber anyway given the shipping and handling fee as that way you're guaranteed a usable fit and not potentially needing to swap pieces out, and additionally, you end up with an extra piece that you'll likely need some day anyway --- it is glass after all! And of course, "fitting" the chambers is still always possible by grinding the o-ring down or even upsizing to a larger o-ring that will need to be ground down if the fit was loose and Vrip is happy to support with additional o-rings we just don't want to waste as much time and energy on swapping pieces trying to affect a fit when it's the glass tubing that is deviating by more than it used to that is the problem.
SunnyHours
Well-Known Member
Having big troubles with VaporNation.com right now, be warned/careful ordering from them.
Waiting over 2 weeks for some news about the cracked VHW I received and also waiting on a 140$ order that hasn't shipped in 2 weeks either really worried!
Waiting over 2 weeks for some news about the cracked VHW I received and also waiting on a 140$ order that hasn't shipped in 2 weeks either really worried!
Shit sorry to hear that Sunny Hours I'll have VaporGirl our wholesale rep check in with them to see if there is anything we can help with from this side.
SunnyHours not sure if you got sorted yet but hopefully you have...please let us know if not and we'll do what we can from our side. VaporGirl said that they had placed an order for VCBS_14.4mms recently that just shipped end of last week and that there was a request for a return for inspection / exchange on something, but when she asked some questions to sort what it was they wanted to return/exchange she hadn't yet gotten an answer. Our retail and wholesale policy is to exchange for anything recieved from us damaged; however, we don't cover product that is damaged in shipment from distributor to customer --- that liability is obviously is on their side and usually just a UPS/USPS claim away from being reimbursedable --- this sounds like perhaps the case?
DBA
Well-Known Member
Hello FC, I am purchasing my first vaporizer and decided to go with a Steinel heatgun setup ( my thread, for more detailed information is at http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/best-setup-for-use-with-steinel-heatgun-2010-e.8705/#post-352718 , I got redirected here by Vorrange). I wonder if i should get the VRIP tech Chamberbowl for a perfect fit, or if by any chance any reducer nozzles fit (I've got the 9, 14 and 20 mm ones) directly onto a glass bowl (for example any of the sizes bowls that would fit EHLE tubes). If anyone could give me any advice on the matter it would be greatly appriciated.
Thanks for your time,
DBA
Thanks for your time,
DBA
A reducer will work fine, if you can achieve a good seal with the bowl. It'll influence the flavour slightly, you really want to minimise or remove all metal and other reactive surfaces, but it's a good way to try it out and see if the Steinel method works for you. See how it goes - and if you want to improve the flavour and further reduce the risk of contamination you could switch to Vriptech's glass tools later on.
The VHW is light years ahead of the old Steinel method though - the flavour and purity just can't be matched, and you've got a lot more control over all of the variables like airflow, temps, heat soak (for radiant and conduction heat transfer, on top of the best convection I've ever experienced in a vape). You can get some very thick vapor by inhaling long and slow (much slower than the Steinel can do), or fast and hard for lighter vapor and more of a THC (vs. CBD) effect. It just opens up a whole range of possibilities that aren't really possible with most other vaporizers. I'm still blown away by the VHW and I've had mine for a few years now, after using the Steinel and Valloon for over 10 years berfore that. I can't see any other vaporizer beating the VHW to be honest, the only real improvements you could make would be for digital temp control, and maybe ground glass joints on the last remaining interface - where the bowl meets the reducer (VHW to reducer interface has a spherical ground joint coming soon).
I'd stick with the Steinel if you're happy, and consider a gradual upgrade path towards Vriptech's HG parts, the Valloon, or maybe skip straight to the VHW if you want better quality vapor on top of what you're getting from the Steinel. The Valloon's great as you don't need to handle the heatgun, just fill up a bag and walk away, and the heatguns are pretty unwieldy even after you've got your technique down. The VHW gives a much better user experience as far as handling it - just be sure to get the stand, I can't imagine using it without the stand as it gives you access to higher temps than the VHW can achieve on its own and makes it all very easy to hold and use.
The VHW is light years ahead of the old Steinel method though - the flavour and purity just can't be matched, and you've got a lot more control over all of the variables like airflow, temps, heat soak (for radiant and conduction heat transfer, on top of the best convection I've ever experienced in a vape). You can get some very thick vapor by inhaling long and slow (much slower than the Steinel can do), or fast and hard for lighter vapor and more of a THC (vs. CBD) effect. It just opens up a whole range of possibilities that aren't really possible with most other vaporizers. I'm still blown away by the VHW and I've had mine for a few years now, after using the Steinel and Valloon for over 10 years berfore that. I can't see any other vaporizer beating the VHW to be honest, the only real improvements you could make would be for digital temp control, and maybe ground glass joints on the last remaining interface - where the bowl meets the reducer (VHW to reducer interface has a spherical ground joint coming soon).
I'd stick with the Steinel if you're happy, and consider a gradual upgrade path towards Vriptech's HG parts, the Valloon, or maybe skip straight to the VHW if you want better quality vapor on top of what you're getting from the Steinel. The Valloon's great as you don't need to handle the heatgun, just fill up a bag and walk away, and the heatguns are pretty unwieldy even after you've got your technique down. The VHW gives a much better user experience as far as handling it - just be sure to get the stand, I can't imagine using it without the stand as it gives you access to higher temps than the VHW can achieve on its own and makes it all very easy to hold and use.
DBA VapeHead couldn't have put it more pragmatically...good shit. I (this is Mark founder of Vrip BTW not Shadow) started vaporizing with a Steinel made Makita and a reducer nozzle after hearing about Eagle Bill and how he had found vapor through a heat gun technique that some ninja hippies in Big Sur had mastered in the '70s. Eagle Bill made a bowl perfectly adapted to accept the heatgun but it was huge...it was literally a vapor keg tap and required some serious material weight to work well so not ideal for us stateside (even us in CA)! IMHO you can technique the reducer nozzle to virtually any one-piece bowl approach into virtually as good as vapor gets, but you'll always have a spray of browned load carcass particles escaping the bowl and besides the material purity consideration VapeHead mentioned (also the polarity of the metal is not as ideal as glass or quartz for terpene/flavor expression in my practiced experience) you don't benefit the proper physics for affecting the most rapid and efficient extractions. Back in '97 I woke up in the middle of the night after falling asleep hours earlier thinking about one of my favorite subjects, aromatherapy vapor, and much to the inconvenience of my sleeping girl friend (now my wife) I got up turned on a light and started drawing. I was drawing the first VCB (Vaporization Chamber Bowl) and it was based upon very simple ideas: seal the damn thing so you don't have to vacuum after every session and use a sequential venturi flow-form to make the extraction as fast and efficient as possible to deliver the broadest specrtrum of terpenes AND higher temperature actives in a condensed state in the same inhalations. This is HUGE because the vaporization temp difference between where terpenes begin to vaporize and where higher temp actives vaporize is 100+F; hence the reason most "vaporizers" deliver the flavor first and then "burnt popcorn" actives second. I also sought to emulate the one hit "snap-through" style of water pipe smoking that was my ritual preference at the time that I evolved to using the heat gun and vaporizing. In fact, VripTech's vapor business was started by giving away SVT (Superior Vaporization Technique) manuals that tell people exactly what VapeHead just said and that was to give it a shot with the reducer to get a taste and then when you realize superior vapor is for you upgrade to the Vrip. Our VHW is by far our most popular heat tool now, but the heat gun systems still sell strong and are used for redundancy by many of our VHW devotees --- the Steinel is nice to have as a session saving back up if you break your VHW glass cover or the element fades at an inconvenient time and you don't have back-ups! Many of our VHW customers just put the Steinel nozzle right up to the shorty intake and are stoked at the performance....it won't give you the same seated seal, but it is definitely functional. If you're going to use it dedicated with the heat gun get one of our dedicated HG VCBs for sure though. They come in sizes that fit practically any piece out there including EHLE. Oh, and be sure to use the lowest air flow option to minimize oxidation unless an oxidized spectrum is what you're seeking.
DBA
Well-Known Member
Vapehead, Mark, first of all, thank you for your extensive and informative posts. Seeing as money is an issue right now, I can not quite afford to get the wand at this time. If I had the money it would be between the VHW and de Verdamper, but for now the steinel will have to do. It's only the 3rd vaporizer I will ever try and it may take a while to get the technique down as well (the two previously mentioned don't have much more than "put in your herb and press the button" or hit it, in de Verdamper's case). I found the taste of de Verdamper definitely superior, which is why I want to get as much glass as possible with my limited budget (to hopefully upgrade to full glass later on). My Ehle would be exclusively for the heatgun setup. Is the HG VCB compatible with the wands or do they have their own chamber bowls? Thanks for all the advice on the use of heatgun setup it will be very helpful.
Cheers
Cheers
No worries DBA totally understand and endorse your approach. The VCB (HG) and VCBS ("shorty" version for the VHW) both use the same lower bowls, but use upper intakes specifically for either heat tool. While the VCBS can be used with the HG (just doesn't give you a seated seal you have to hold it there), the VCB doesn't work so well with the VHW because it is taller (heat is farther away) and doesn't seal well enough in most cases (occasionally an upper intake will have a perfectly round inner diameter at the perfect location to allow the VHW to seal, but this is a fluke and not by tooled intention). In theory, you could get the VCB (HG) and be dialed for your current HG application and then later just replace the upper intake component with the "shorty" version for the VHW and be dialed, but we recently stopped selling the pieces seperately because of the current state of glass supply here in the states and the fact that the tubing we're getting today simply deviates more making for alot more exchanges and inconveniences for us and our customers than we thought was ideal. This is especially the case given that once you factor in the shipping and handling cost it really makes more sense to buy a matched set anyways and know you've got a matched set out of the box and likely end up with a compatible extra piece that will probably come in handy some day --- it is glass after all! Some of our distributors still have the seperate pieces so could provide that option we just can't guarantee the retro-fit. Most of the time it's not a problem and will be too tight if anything which means as long as it's not glass on glass you can simply "fit" the chamber by grinding the o-ring down a little (use an emery board or a piece of sand paper; takes minutes and is a one-time deal). If the fit is too loose you can get a larger o-ring that can be ground to fit it too so not the end of the world just not convenient from a customer or supplier perspective hence our decision to only sell matched sets at this point.
Sorry for the two back order lags on VHWs this last month folks our local maestro that is the best at using the jig for the internal seal that is so critical to the VHW glass cover design has been sick as a dog and barely working. Finally got him back in for a few days back to back last week and we're well stocked once again --- get em while they're fresh and on the shelf!!!
And good news progress report on the next gen VHWs and VCBs featuring complete GonG (super trick spherical joint VHW-VCBUI interface and a shorter than standard 19mm joint for the VCB) that we've been struggling with sourcing and tooling the required pieces to the tolerances needed --- the first round of samples from our new AMERICAN supplier (yes you read right) should be received early next week yeeeha! Get ready for another paradigm shift in what level of vapor quality is attainable! Also, too early to announce specifics, but an interesting glass collaboration is being explored that should result in some Vapor-tuned headies for those that better than the others good enough just isn't good enough....
And good news progress report on the next gen VHWs and VCBs featuring complete GonG (super trick spherical joint VHW-VCBUI interface and a shorter than standard 19mm joint for the VCB) that we've been struggling with sourcing and tooling the required pieces to the tolerances needed --- the first round of samples from our new AMERICAN supplier (yes you read right) should be received early next week yeeeha! Get ready for another paradigm shift in what level of vapor quality is attainable! Also, too early to announce specifics, but an interesting glass collaboration is being explored that should result in some Vapor-tuned headies for those that better than the others good enough just isn't good enough....
CCsurfer
New Member
I have used many different vaporizer methods in the past 15 years. But last week I pick up a Vrip Master heat wand and glass kit and all I can say is wow. What a well thought out perfect tool for the ultimate delivery of your favorite medication. Absolutely the best vapor system I have ever used. Clean flavor, energy efficient and so easy to use, nothing else even comes close. Don't hesitate if your considering picking one up, you will thank yourself with every use. -Highly recommended-
TAKTLOSS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkUl3_n449Q
hello can anybody here tell me the dimater of the upper side of the vriptech chamber bowl ? i plan to purchase a vritech heatwand for 200 euros if i would buy the original vriptech heatwand bowl it would coast me 60 euros extra here in germany (260 euros) its to much for me iam broke 
so thats why iam looking for a alternative bowl it would be gr8 if sombody could find a solution are there any other bowl/s that is usable with the heatwand???
so thats why iam looking for a alternative bowl it would be gr8 if sombody could find a solution are there any other bowl/s that is usable with the heatwand???
Inner diameter of the Shorty intake (what the VHW connects to) is 31mm.
Also a general tip - always use a surge protector with your VHW. I removed mine temporarily, forgot to put it back on, and after probably 2 years faithful service my VHW element died (pretty bad electricity supply where I am). Thank fuck for spares!
Also a general tip - always use a surge protector with your VHW. I removed mine temporarily, forgot to put it back on, and after probably 2 years faithful service my VHW element died (pretty bad electricity supply where I am). Thank fuck for spares!
vapventure
Member
Here's an article about the VHW written in German that mentions a fitting intake
http://vaporizerland.com/vriptech-heatwand/
The question is, where to get the VHW in Germany? The one shop that lists it has it sold out
http://vaporizerland.com/vriptech-heatwand/
The question is, where to get the VHW in Germany? The one shop that lists it has it sold out
vorrange
Vapor.wise
Here's an article about the VHW written in German that mentions a fitting intake
http://vaporizerland.com/vriptech-heatwand/
The question is, where to get the VHW in Germany? The one shop that lists it has it sold out
Is the one you mention verdampftnochmal.de? You can check everyonedoesit.co.uk also, and be sure to check swiss stores, although they are more expensive usually.
vapventure
Member
Yea that was the shop that i meant. I wrote them a mail and asked if and when they'll have it back in store.
If they don't get it anymore i have to see if i can get it from the UK or from Switzerland, thanks!
If they don't get it anymore i have to see if i can get it from the UK or from Switzerland, thanks!
TAKTLOSS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkUl3_n449Q
i wrote them 2days ago (verdampftnochmal) and they told me that they will have the heatwand in stock again in 2-4 weeksHere's an article about the VHW written in German that mentions a fitting intake
http://vaporizerland.com/vriptech-heatwand/
The question is, where to get the VHW in Germany? The one shop that lists it has it sold out
vapventure
Member
That's great, thanks for letting me know. Hope they'll have enough in stock then and not just one unit.
I'm trying to decide between the VHW and the Herborizer and so far the VHW convinces me more. I like the design, the all-glass path and also the slightly cheaper price (compared to the herborizer xl). With the Herborizer i don't like the cable exposition on top of the Herborizer. I don't know if it would make a difference, but i wonder if the heat below doesn't actually melt some of the cable isolation over time or if you forgot to turn it off. Probably not, but i like to have as little parts that could heat up on the device as possible.
One questions on the VHW, the electronics section is completely sealed from the air path, right? There's the air going in through the holes in the glass at the bottom of the device, where the heating chamber is, but not through any of the electronics? If so, is both the heating chamber and the electronics section separated also by glass?
Lastly, one question that i have is about the temperature. I haven't found anything yet about it and i'd like to know how hot it gets and where i would have to set it for a temperature of about 180-190° Celsius (~360° Fahrenheit)
I'm trying to decide between the VHW and the Herborizer and so far the VHW convinces me more. I like the design, the all-glass path and also the slightly cheaper price (compared to the herborizer xl). With the Herborizer i don't like the cable exposition on top of the Herborizer. I don't know if it would make a difference, but i wonder if the heat below doesn't actually melt some of the cable isolation over time or if you forgot to turn it off. Probably not, but i like to have as little parts that could heat up on the device as possible.
One questions on the VHW, the electronics section is completely sealed from the air path, right? There's the air going in through the holes in the glass at the bottom of the device, where the heating chamber is, but not through any of the electronics? If so, is both the heating chamber and the electronics section separated also by glass?
Lastly, one question that i have is about the temperature. I haven't found anything yet about it and i'd like to know how hot it gets and where i would have to set it for a temperature of about 180-190° Celsius (~360° Fahrenheit)
TAKTLOSS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkUl3_n449Q
no problem you are welcome and you dont have to worry about that... they will have more then enough if they will be back in stock
What up Vrip Family sorry for the long absence again I've been out of pocket and am now in Sweden with family for a few weeks catching up on my computer work. Sounds like I should have brought some Vrip kits with me by the looks of the recently surging EU interest we're getting in email and on the forum, but the good news is that Verdampftnochmal our German distributor who services the whole EU rather well it would seem had a good size order in the air last week before I left California and should have product any day.
VAPVENTURE I'll do my best to answer your questions:
1. The air path on the VHW is 100% glass and the air DOES NOT COME FROM ANYWHERE NEAR THE ELECTRONICS LIKE ON MANY OTHER VAPORIZERS INCLUDING THOSE CLAIMING GLASS HEATING SURFACE as the air is taken in from outside of the unit by way of directed intakes on the lower portion of the glass cover that create a powerful vortex around the inner glass cover that actually encapsulates the integrated circuit cartridge element that supplies the heat --- essentially the inner glass cover is the element for the purpose of heating the air (hence the 100% glass heating surface), but gets it's heat from a cartidge style integrated circuit element (cast in ceramic like the more common cartridge style elements based upon nichrome coils used on many vaporizers and soldering irons, but WAY MORE SOPHISTICATED AND ROBUST) that comes out of the housing and is wired to the board. It's a very simple, but effective design --- just the glass blowing requirements are mind-blowingly difficult because of the tight tolerances and what is essentially a rather small "inside-out" type of glass work.
2. The temperature range will absolutely cover 360F --- you can go quite a bit lower and a bit hotter probably around 420F on the high side. The VHW does not use "digital" temp control because in our vast experience (Vrip was selling vaporization tools in 1997 --- ask any other vaporizer company what they where doing in 1997 and the truthful answer will be, ummm SMOKING) unless you have millions to invest like Steinel who makes the Heat Guns we spec for the Vrip HG systems AND/OR you want a metallic temp probe sticking into your herbs THERE IS NO WAY IN HELL you're getting an accurate reading --- approximate is the best you can get. So to offer the ultimate in efficiency, reliability and effectiveness at only 60 watts of power and the fraction of a cost of "DIGITAL" control that doesn't really do squat for you anyway we stick to good old fashion ANALOGUE and user preferenced control. It's pretty simple --- dial in to the setting on the potentiometer that works best for the pull rate, substrate, and taste preference that makes you the happiest! Slower pull rate = higher apparant temp while Faster pull rate = lower apparant temp so start slow and milk it up nicely and finish as you would a good old fashion bong rip is what we generally recommend, but that said there are a number of variations to that technique that you'll find work great --- many are detailed on this forum. Oh, and check the Vrip VHW and VWT BuB and VHW and RooR Icemaster videos for some visually stimulating curriculum on the subject:
**** VHW and VCBS_14.4mm on a RooR IceMaster:
More videos in the works and a website revamp underway that will make a world of difference too ---- it will include a more detailed description of functionality of the whole Vrip line with close up photographs that will definitely help. Hope that helps and we APPRECIATE THE INTEREST AND SUPPORT!
VAPVENTURE I'll do my best to answer your questions:
1. The air path on the VHW is 100% glass and the air DOES NOT COME FROM ANYWHERE NEAR THE ELECTRONICS LIKE ON MANY OTHER VAPORIZERS INCLUDING THOSE CLAIMING GLASS HEATING SURFACE as the air is taken in from outside of the unit by way of directed intakes on the lower portion of the glass cover that create a powerful vortex around the inner glass cover that actually encapsulates the integrated circuit cartridge element that supplies the heat --- essentially the inner glass cover is the element for the purpose of heating the air (hence the 100% glass heating surface), but gets it's heat from a cartidge style integrated circuit element (cast in ceramic like the more common cartridge style elements based upon nichrome coils used on many vaporizers and soldering irons, but WAY MORE SOPHISTICATED AND ROBUST) that comes out of the housing and is wired to the board. It's a very simple, but effective design --- just the glass blowing requirements are mind-blowingly difficult because of the tight tolerances and what is essentially a rather small "inside-out" type of glass work.
2. The temperature range will absolutely cover 360F --- you can go quite a bit lower and a bit hotter probably around 420F on the high side. The VHW does not use "digital" temp control because in our vast experience (Vrip was selling vaporization tools in 1997 --- ask any other vaporizer company what they where doing in 1997 and the truthful answer will be, ummm SMOKING) unless you have millions to invest like Steinel who makes the Heat Guns we spec for the Vrip HG systems AND/OR you want a metallic temp probe sticking into your herbs THERE IS NO WAY IN HELL you're getting an accurate reading --- approximate is the best you can get. So to offer the ultimate in efficiency, reliability and effectiveness at only 60 watts of power and the fraction of a cost of "DIGITAL" control that doesn't really do squat for you anyway we stick to good old fashion ANALOGUE and user preferenced control. It's pretty simple --- dial in to the setting on the potentiometer that works best for the pull rate, substrate, and taste preference that makes you the happiest! Slower pull rate = higher apparant temp while Faster pull rate = lower apparant temp so start slow and milk it up nicely and finish as you would a good old fashion bong rip is what we generally recommend, but that said there are a number of variations to that technique that you'll find work great --- many are detailed on this forum. Oh, and check the Vrip VHW and VWT BuB and VHW and RooR Icemaster videos for some visually stimulating curriculum on the subject:
**** VHW and VCBS_14.4mm on a RooR IceMaster:
More videos in the works and a website revamp underway that will make a world of difference too ---- it will include a more detailed description of functionality of the whole Vrip line with close up photographs that will definitely help. Hope that helps and we APPRECIATE THE INTEREST AND SUPPORT!
vapventure
Member
What a great comment, thanks a lot for getting so much into detail ShadowVape. Yea that answered all my questions.
I get the reason behind the analogue temperature setting. I think this is a good design choice and you're right, unless you're probing the temperature right where the ingredients are you can't get an accurate reading anyway. My question was more like how much i would have to turn the thing to get to somewhere around 180°. For the Volcano that's easy, it's roughly at "5", but i'll find it out anyway once i got the thing
I'm very sure now that i'll get t the VHW once verdampftnochmal has it back. I also got a response from them telling me that they should have it back in store in about 10-14 days. I can wait that long
I get the reason behind the analogue temperature setting. I think this is a good design choice and you're right, unless you're probing the temperature right where the ingredients are you can't get an accurate reading anyway. My question was more like how much i would have to turn the thing to get to somewhere around 180°. For the Volcano that's easy, it's roughly at "5", but i'll find it out anyway once i got the thing
I'm very sure now that i'll get t the VHW once verdampftnochmal has it back. I also got a response from them telling me that they should have it back in store in about 10-14 days. I can wait that long
Right on glad to help --- I forgot to mention what I'm sure is obvious anyway regarding temp preferences and that is to simply assess the vapor as it flows (one of the nice things about using a clear scientific style tube or bubbler for delivery) --- it will start out just a wisp and then thicken up to a nice "blue" tone, but don't let it go white if maximum condensation with maximum spectrum breadth and concentration is the goal --- if hybrid smoke/vapor is the goal let it go white (hopefully with the awareness that most of the medicinal goods and flavor will have been in the transitional "blue" toned vapor). And if you're off at all on the vapor preference or regardless just look at the herbs in the bowl and by the color of what we affectionately refer to as the "load carcass" in California you can tell if it was too hot (potentiometer set too hot/open and/or pull rate too slow for too long) or not hot enough (potentiometer set too low/closed and/or pull rate too fast too soon) and make an adjustment to the potentiometer and/or technique. For your temp goal you're probably going to be running it at about 75-80% heat once the unit is fully up to operating temp if you follow the recommended slow pull to milk it blue technique we advocate. Many users will turn it on 100% to affect a more rapid heat up while they are refreshing the water and icing up the tube and/or grinding the herbs and then turn it back to the setting they know they prefer for the actual sessioning.
The potentiometer dial has a simple circular red swoosh (sorry Nike not trying to imitate I swear) on it whereas the thicker end indicates more heat and the narrower end indicates less heat. Just be sure to have the unit fully heated before assessing (seven minutes horizontal or less if inverted in one of our stands or a mug should be MORE than sufficient unless you live in an ice cave) and be aware that if you're using a stand or mug for faster heat up it will temporarily be hotter than the setting indicates due to the inverted position and insulative qualities of the stand or mug --- this is helpful for those that don't want to wait as long to get it going (both the wand heat-up and then the herb heat up once the wand is seated in the intake to take a Vrip), but can be a little tricky to dial in the temp if you're not considering all the variables. Basically, if using the stand or mug you'll usually start pulling sooner and at a faster rate than if the wand was just laying horizontal heating up (obviously on a heat proof surface) otherewise you'll get a bit more browning of the carcass and whiter vapor/smoke. If using a stand or mug just be sure NOT to leave the wand in there for extended periods at full heat as the tip seals will cook faster and need to be replaced more often and the element and glass in theory anyway won't last as long either. For extended "stand-by" mode so as not to require a full heat up just turn the unit down a bit ideally and leave it horizontal on a heat proof surface --- then when you return to it just turn it back up to the preferred operating temp and it will get there quick. If the concept of an ALL GLASS heating surface in a wand context has a downside besides the fragility and cost of the glass it's that there is considerable thermal mass that must be heated up so it will take a few minutes longer to heat up than say an aluminum or nichrome heating element such as is found on most vaporizers (usually right next to insulated wires and solder etc) --- but the flavor quality you can attain and the purity trade offs more than justify IMHO and this isn't even touching upon the superiority of the extraction attainable if used with a sequential venturi Vrip Vaporization Chamber Bowl design that is specifically intended to affect more rapid and broader spectrum extractions regardless of your heat source. I'd get into a discussion of the polarity of the materials and how that affects the terpene expression now, but my family is waiting on me for a ride out to the country to grab some raw milk straight from the farm (illegal in Sweden so we're thankful to have found some nutritional-minded criminals) so gotta run!!!
I'll add one more thing: If you perouse the pages of this forum you'll likely find a detailed answer on just about any Vrip specific consideration, but if you don't please don't hesitate to reach out to us direct @ info@vriptech.com or mark@vriptech.com (same as headvripper@vriptech.com except you're not supposed to get the auto-response which I know can be annoying). We seem to be eternally plagued with email accounts that get slammed and spammed hard AND get alot of legit traffic as well so apologies in advance if anyone's email ever gets missed --- just PLEASE try again as it is definitely our intent to make sure everyone interested is inhaling the same superior quality condensed and broad spectrum aromatic vapors we are!!! By putting "Unanswered Question" in the subject line it helps us when skimming the filtered folders to be sure we find your email even if it was filtered by the Red Alert level filters we're forced to use. Hopefully with the upcoming ISP change we're making we can shake some of the junk mail and the noise it creates. Happy Vaping!
The potentiometer dial has a simple circular red swoosh (sorry Nike not trying to imitate I swear) on it whereas the thicker end indicates more heat and the narrower end indicates less heat. Just be sure to have the unit fully heated before assessing (seven minutes horizontal or less if inverted in one of our stands or a mug should be MORE than sufficient unless you live in an ice cave) and be aware that if you're using a stand or mug for faster heat up it will temporarily be hotter than the setting indicates due to the inverted position and insulative qualities of the stand or mug --- this is helpful for those that don't want to wait as long to get it going (both the wand heat-up and then the herb heat up once the wand is seated in the intake to take a Vrip), but can be a little tricky to dial in the temp if you're not considering all the variables. Basically, if using the stand or mug you'll usually start pulling sooner and at a faster rate than if the wand was just laying horizontal heating up (obviously on a heat proof surface) otherewise you'll get a bit more browning of the carcass and whiter vapor/smoke. If using a stand or mug just be sure NOT to leave the wand in there for extended periods at full heat as the tip seals will cook faster and need to be replaced more often and the element and glass in theory anyway won't last as long either. For extended "stand-by" mode so as not to require a full heat up just turn the unit down a bit ideally and leave it horizontal on a heat proof surface --- then when you return to it just turn it back up to the preferred operating temp and it will get there quick. If the concept of an ALL GLASS heating surface in a wand context has a downside besides the fragility and cost of the glass it's that there is considerable thermal mass that must be heated up so it will take a few minutes longer to heat up than say an aluminum or nichrome heating element such as is found on most vaporizers (usually right next to insulated wires and solder etc) --- but the flavor quality you can attain and the purity trade offs more than justify IMHO and this isn't even touching upon the superiority of the extraction attainable if used with a sequential venturi Vrip Vaporization Chamber Bowl design that is specifically intended to affect more rapid and broader spectrum extractions regardless of your heat source. I'd get into a discussion of the polarity of the materials and how that affects the terpene expression now, but my family is waiting on me for a ride out to the country to grab some raw milk straight from the farm (illegal in Sweden so we're thankful to have found some nutritional-minded criminals) so gotta run!!!
I'll add one more thing: If you perouse the pages of this forum you'll likely find a detailed answer on just about any Vrip specific consideration, but if you don't please don't hesitate to reach out to us direct @ info@vriptech.com or mark@vriptech.com (same as headvripper@vriptech.com except you're not supposed to get the auto-response which I know can be annoying). We seem to be eternally plagued with email accounts that get slammed and spammed hard AND get alot of legit traffic as well so apologies in advance if anyone's email ever gets missed --- just PLEASE try again as it is definitely our intent to make sure everyone interested is inhaling the same superior quality condensed and broad spectrum aromatic vapors we are!!! By putting "Unanswered Question" in the subject line it helps us when skimming the filtered folders to be sure we find your email even if it was filtered by the Red Alert level filters we're forced to use. Hopefully with the upcoming ISP change we're making we can shake some of the junk mail and the noise it creates. Happy Vaping!
vapventure
Member
Thanks again to you ShadowVape for helping out so much. I should've mentioned i'm not new at all to vaporization, i own a Volcano since 2008 and an Aromed since about 2011. They're both great, but have also become somewhat too harsh for me.
When i first had the Volcano i used to be able to pull a whole bag of ingredients without any water filtration and without any problems. But later i had some coughing issues and throat irritation from the dry vape and so after a while i started inhaling the balloon through a water system. This worked pretty well for a time, but wasn't really all that great. Why fill up a balloon first if you could just inhale directly like with an Aromed or VHW.
So in around 2011 i eventually got an Aromed that replaced the Volcano. At first i found the Aromed great, but now it has become almost as harsh to me, and if i inhale too long for a certain time i also get coughing issues and have a hard time breathing, even at temperatures below 190° Celcius. So the Aromed is just gathering dust right now and i'm back to the Volcano with a small water filtration, but even that is still giving me some issues if i'm not careful. I hope and i'm very sure that the VHW will finally be able to replace both of them. I can imagine that the all-glass pathway helps a lot for me, especially in combination with a decent and better water filter.
So i'm looking around for the right water filter for the VHW. Few things i've decided on: It should be relatively small (but not too small) because i'm pretty sure i won't be able to take any big hits. After watching some videos on youtube i can't believe how people can inhale so much thick vape, but then the vape also looks much smoother if inhaled through a good water filter. Good hydration of the vape and clearance of dust particles are probably the important factors to a smooth inhalation.
So I came across this Ehle 250ml which i really like ( http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa113/KalecLovesYou/MyEHLE.jpg ). This has all i'm looking for, all glass (no acryl foot f.e.) and no kickhole (which i don'T like). This also looks similar to the Roor that you showed in the second video you posted.
Do you (or anybody else) think this is a good way to start for someone having trouble with inhaling too harsh vape? Or would a more complicated filter design (like diffusing&percs) be a better choice?
Thanks again for reading and helping out!
When i first had the Volcano i used to be able to pull a whole bag of ingredients without any water filtration and without any problems. But later i had some coughing issues and throat irritation from the dry vape and so after a while i started inhaling the balloon through a water system. This worked pretty well for a time, but wasn't really all that great. Why fill up a balloon first if you could just inhale directly like with an Aromed or VHW.
So in around 2011 i eventually got an Aromed that replaced the Volcano. At first i found the Aromed great, but now it has become almost as harsh to me, and if i inhale too long for a certain time i also get coughing issues and have a hard time breathing, even at temperatures below 190° Celcius. So the Aromed is just gathering dust right now and i'm back to the Volcano with a small water filtration, but even that is still giving me some issues if i'm not careful. I hope and i'm very sure that the VHW will finally be able to replace both of them. I can imagine that the all-glass pathway helps a lot for me, especially in combination with a decent and better water filter.
So i'm looking around for the right water filter for the VHW. Few things i've decided on: It should be relatively small (but not too small) because i'm pretty sure i won't be able to take any big hits. After watching some videos on youtube i can't believe how people can inhale so much thick vape, but then the vape also looks much smoother if inhaled through a good water filter. Good hydration of the vape and clearance of dust particles are probably the important factors to a smooth inhalation.
So I came across this Ehle 250ml which i really like ( http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa113/KalecLovesYou/MyEHLE.jpg ). This has all i'm looking for, all glass (no acryl foot f.e.) and no kickhole (which i don'T like). This also looks similar to the Roor that you showed in the second video you posted.
Do you (or anybody else) think this is a good way to start for someone having trouble with inhaling too harsh vape? Or would a more complicated filter design (like diffusing&percs) be a better choice?
Thanks again for reading and helping out!