Volcano

[Bouldorado]

Alright so I tried out the liquid pad and it definitely works a lot better. The bags are much more consistent than with the 7th floor disc, but still aren't what I consider "thick".

This is what I got from the second bag:

s

 

[Roger D]

To get thicker vapors, use a shorter bag, put more material, up the temperature.

I use 42,5cm bags, allowing me to change it exactly seven times with one roll. The bigger the bag, the more diluted the vapors are.

I can get the whitest bags from less than .2 of high grade weed.

 

[FLskwat]

Alright so I tried out the liquid pad and it definitely works a lot better. The bags are much more consistent than with the 7th floor disc, but still aren't what I consider "thick".

This is what I got from the second bag:

s

Temperature for that bag?
And I use the trick of putting the chamber, launch the pump, count till 10, and THEN only click...all the period with the pad heating and your bag inflating with only hot air and no vape will be "shortcutted": vape/air ratio increased in the bag: thick bag!
Next bag, as the pad is still a little hot, just count till 5 and then click!

Please report!

 

[monacokid]

i have yet to try this in my cano but as soon as i saw that post on how cloudy the bag was i could only think that we probably wasnt doing it right as i assumed first he wasnt giving it enough before he flipped the fan switch as i watched in another video on youtube of a guy using the gauze technique who did the same thing and let the bho sit for a few seconds, i presume this is necessary for every time u fill up the bag unless its under very fast use and the pad has little time to cool down as im assuming it gets very hot just like the solid valve piece you use for your herb material. i would also like to ask which works better on the pad, a wax or an oil? or do you just use a diffrent technique with the wax like you do with the pen vaporizers how you just melt it into the shaft you would melt it into the pad, iuno im not sure can some one clarify?

 

[Roger D]

You have to maximize the surface of the product in contact with the hot air flow to increase extraction. Waxy stuff is not easy to spread. That's why I stick with weed

 

[monacokid]

if i do ever manage to get my hands on wax/bho i would only do it occasionally as i know 100 percent it will get ur solid valve very nasty and i dont even wana think about the pad. but thanks for this tip guys this is why i love this site, it has everything you need to know. from tobacco to weed to vaporizers.

 

[Bouldorado]

Temperature for that bag?
And I use the trick of putting the chamber, launch the pump, count till 10, and THEN only click...all the period with the pad heating and your bag inflating with only hot air and no vape will be "shortcutted": vape/air ratio increased in the bag: thick bag!
Next bag, as the pad is still a little hot, just count till 5 and then click!

Please report!

temp for that bag was maxed out. it makes a lot of sense to preheat the pad, as the liquid pad is pretty dense mesh. It definitely cools the initial airflow significantly. I noticed that it took a while longer for the bag to start filling with vapor. I actually tried pre-heating the pad with the pump for the third bag.

I put the chamber on the cano for minute or two, turned the fan on until I saw vapor come out, then clicked the bag. Strangely though, it didn't seems to make much of a difference. The oil on the liquid pad may have been dwindling though, as this is a decent sized bag; way more than my lung capacity.

@ CA5H I can get a white bag from .1g of bud at 6.5, so bag size isn't the issue.

I'd say the problem is entirely heat related. I've topped off herb bowls with earwax before, and have gotten multiple, ridiculously thick (smoke like) bags, even at 6.5/7. Perhaps the gauze method works better, since it would be more porous.

 

[Vitolo]

 

[nucleo]

This is an explanation of how to make the most out of volcano vaporizer.

List of extra accessories.

- 12L Turkey Bags
- 4" Medical Grade Tubing
- Cotton
- 5 Glass Air Tight Jars
- Dark Place

Use a 12L Turkey Bag, make sure when buying these that you check what temperatures they go up to, don't get anything under 190c/356f.

Take the tubing and wrap some cotton around it, then insert it into the valve. Not sure about solidvalve, i use the easyvalve. Remove any excess cotton and make sure the tubing can't move or just drop out.

Take a permanent marker or stickies and mark on each jar these temperatures.
(1) 180c/356f; (2) 185c/365f; (3) 190c/374f; (4) 195c/383f; (5) edibles

Using fresh herb, the process is quite simple, you will use your fresh herb until you run out.

Before starting, this method is only enjoyable if doing the cycle per batch of fresh herb, as in, you take 100g or so, and you don't use fresh herb until the cycle is complete. You ask why? Well because of taste and flavour is an issue, there won't be much of either after your first bag.

Starting point:

1) Fill chamber after crushing enough to just cover the surface of the mesh but not so that it starts stacking.

2) Set to 180c/356f, when it's ready hit the button and wait 10-20 secs, then load the chamber with the bag at the same time.

3) Don't let the bag stretch fully like it's going to explode, remove it and the chamber 3 seconds before you see it's becoming a balloon ready to fly off then remove the chamber from the bag immediately after that.

4) Put the bag down, take the chamber and dump this into your first jar (1) marked 180c/356f, close it airtight, store in your closet where it's pitch black 24/7.

5) Take the bag and attach the valve with the tubing which is now going to be used as a whip style bag.

6) If you have problems not seeing any vapor, turn the lights off and exhale looking at the screen of your computer.

7) Replace the bag when you start realising there's a hole and the vapor is escaping (usualy depends on how high the temperatures are throughout it's use)


When you have used up all your fresh herb, use the same amount you would use for fresh herb with what you have been saving up in (1). Take (1) and set the temperature to what is written on jar (2), and after the bag is full, put the used herb into jar (2) being marked as the 2nd time you have vaporized it with the temperature it has been vaped at on the jar. Don't use jar (2) until all of jar (1) has been transfered to (2).

When all of jar (2) has been used and transfered to jar (3), take a rolling pin and use the handle to crush all the herb into fine powder.

When using jar (4) use double the amount as you would use for fresh herb, also bare in mind that the finer it gets, the more chance of it falling through the mesh.

When it hits (5) just make edibles or blast it at 230c/440f. I wouldn't do so high, because it's the reason why i'm vaping in the first place.

Fresh -> 180c/356f -> (1)
(1) -> 185c/365f -> (2)
(2) -> 190c/374f -> (3)
(3) -> 195c/383f -> (4)
(4) x2 -> 200c/392f -> (5)
(5) -> Edibles

Depending on strain and potency and reason why you vape, results may vary, however I found found this to be the best balanced forumla. There should be enough THC present to reach the 4th jar. If you don't beleive me, one day wake up and take a hit from that jar.

Hope this helps!

 

[Tea Party]

I'd rather smoke fresh weed each time than pre vaped weed.

 

[nucleo]

I know sir, but some people would rather buy a new car with the money.

 

[Tea Party]

Or I could just buy a little weed and the way through and save money on the side for a new car....

 

[kushcabbage]

 

[Mynameismud]

Shouldnt this be in the general vaporizer discussion?

 

[Nick Brand]

After six years of non-stop daily use with the Digit/solid valve I put in an order for some replacement o-rings. The one I really needed is the little blue one in the valve- it's become a little stretched out and doesn't do it's job as well. I also ordered a set of "fine" screens, the units ship with "normal" screens, and I'm hoping the "fine" will screen out even more spent trich heads, etc.
https://www.volcanovaporizer.com/products-page/solid-valve/

 

[Bouldorado]

^^ is that the official volcano site? looks a little different from the one I've used before

 

[Nick Brand]

^^ is that the official volcano site? looks a little different from the one I've used before

It's the Storz&Bickel US site, based in Oakland. Here's the official, Germany-based site...
http://www.storz-bickel.com/vaporizer/plenty-volcano-vaporizer.html

 

[Roger D]

I also ordered a set of "fine" screens, the units ship with "normal" screens, and I'm hoping the "fine" will screen out even more spent trich heads, etc.

The fine screens are very weak, you must double them with a normal screen. They also get dirty very fast and you can't use them for a long time or clean them easily. They broke fast. So I don't use them anymore

 

[Nick Brand]

The fine screens are very weak, you must double them with a normal screen. They also get dirty very fast and you can't use them for a long time or clean them easily. They broke fast. So I don't use them anymore

thanks for letting me know, cash. Did you try using a normal screen on the bottom, and a fine screen on top?

 

[Roger D]

I doubled the screens on the top and the bottom. One of each top and bottom, for a 4 screen total

The fine screen not very rigid so I wouldn't use them alone
Adding a fine screen on the top helped me keep the valve clean, but they get dirty fast, a lot of stuff get trapped in.

You will get tired from using it

Edit : For my last order i took the wear and tear set + air filters, its a better deal than taking all the pieces alone

My daily free tips for a fresh cano (4 years of volcano cleaning, use it everyday and I'm a freakin maniac)

For cleaning the parts and screens i use food grade 95% alcohol and clean white cotton tissue. I put the alcohol on a small spray so I don't use much since its expensive. You can also put some on the brush and brush the screens. I get them almost as new.

I dry brush the screens everyday to keep them looking tight over time. Don't like when the resin ends up blocking the air path.

Also, having 2 solid valve sets allows me to change the balloon less often.
I only throw the dirtiest one, And put a brand new on the "flavor grabber" I keep his old one to replace the dirtiest one.

 

[Nick Brand]

I doubled the screens on the top and the bottom. One of each top and bottom, for a 4 screen total

The fine screen not very rigid so I wouldn't use them alone
Adding a fine screen on the top helped me keep the valve clean, but they get dirty fast, a lot of stuff get trapped in.

You will get tired from using it

Edit : For my last order i took the wear and tear set + air filters, its a better deal than taking all the pieces alone

My daily free tips for a fresh cano (4 years of volcano cleaning, use it everyday and I'm a freakin maniac)

For cleaning the parts and screens i use food grade 95% alcohol and clean white cotton tissue. I put the alcohol on a small spray so I don't use much since its expensive. You can also put some on the brush and brush the screens. I get them almost as new.

I dry brush the screens everyday to keep them looking tight over time. Don't like when the resin ends up blocking the air path.

Also, having 2 solid valve sets allows me to change the balloon less often.
I only throw the dirtiest one, And put a brand new on the "flavor grabber" I keep his old one to replace the dirtiest one. I do than like every two months, and I also clean everything with alcohol this day.

thanks again, cash. lots of times i just throw the pieces in the dishwasher, carefully set in there of course. works a charm. enjoy that mo-sheen!

 

[Bouldorado]

I clean the solid valve by dismantling and soaking it in 91 or 9% iso. I save the iso for several cleanings and then reclaim it once it becomes dark (also clean my oil dome in the same jar). This reclaim is then baked into cookies or chocolates.

 

[Roger D]

That's nice, is it potent ?

 

[Nick Brand]

I clean the solid valve by dismantling and soaking it in 91 or 9% iso. I save the iso for several cleanings and then reclaim it once it becomes dark (also clean my oil dome in the same jar). This reclaim is then baked into cookies or chocolates.

thanks, B.
I've been scraping off the good goo first, then tossing the parts in the dishwasher. I think what I'll now try is, following your lead, soaking the goo off first in iso. Once I've got enough disolved I'll strain it through a coffee filter (I've got one of those solid metal ones to play with, if paper filters aren't doing it). Then I can see how the stuff vapes up in a concentrates vaporizer, once the iso's gone.

I'm also going to start taking used vapor bags, cut them into pieces, and iso off the vapor that's collected on the inside. This should be good stuff through the iso vaporizer, as it hasn't been beaten to death repeatedly with heat like the goo that collects in the valve has. The browner goo that collects at the lower part of the bag will be closer to valve-quality- leave that part out the get the better quality "stickin's".

 

[Bouldorado]

That's nice, is it potent ?

Yes very! It's a much stonier high, which I believe is due to it having a higher cbd ratio. I haven't personally smoked the iso reclaim from volcano parts, but the edibles it produces are excellent.