Silver420Surfer
Downward spiral
Vito, as I re-read his post I see that now. First time around I only noticed saw the word "dirty", then my mind + jumping + conclusions = me doing this
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Vaporbrothers Dabbler & Eleven Pen
- Thread starter Abysmal Vapor
- Start date
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rekrab
Well-Known Member
I have been a regular lurker, first time poster. I just recently bought the dabbler, super excited. I was reading a little ways back people talking about the glass globe attachment from ruvaped dot com. I was wondering if anyone knows the quality of the wick and surrounding area. Like what materials were used etc. I like how vaporbrothers came on here and specifically said what is in there device, with multiple other people doing reviews. They just dont have a globe out yet.
side note also wondering if anyone knows of a dry herb attachment for the dabbler, something that fits.
side note also wondering if anyone knows of a dry herb attachment for the dabbler, something that fits.
Silver420Surfer
Downward spiral
Vaporwarehouse(who sells and warrants the VB Dabbler), was on here recently saying they were testing globes I believe. Hit em up with an email first maybe they'll let you know which ones had crappy components vs good ones. Haven't had the pleasure to try the globes. Don't know if Globes are a great new toy or gimmick.
rekrab
Well-Known Member
Just wondering what globe you have, as in which brand, and possibly if you could elaborate on what materials it looks like they used. thanks
Judging by the pictures and seeing them in store. They do look very similar to the VB dabbler parts just obviously in the globe
Vitolo
Vaporist
When I made the post, I said, that they were Dabbler(Vape-Pen)created parts.
My globe is by Dabbler, and should be available soon.
Short video clip to follow~
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rekrab
Well-Known Member
When I made the post, I said, that they were Dabbler created parts.
My globe is by Dabbler, and should be available soon.
Short video clip to follow~
Ahh sweet, must have missed that a few pages back. The one you have there looks spif, nice and simple.
My two cents about globes. We tested both the Vaped and Stag globes. Given the choice I would go with the Stag globe over Vaped. Like the Dabbler, Stag uses a glass fiber for their wick. I'm not sure what Vaped uses but their wick will smoke and give off a odor if you do a dry test. Stag's globe did not produce an odor.
Not sure where Vape-Pen stands with the Dabbler globe or when that will be available.
Rekrab "side note also wondering if anyone knows of a dry herb attachment for the dabbler, something that fits."
There is nothing out there for using dry herbs with the Dabbler, unless you want to combust. But our slogan is "Inhale Essence, Not Smoke" and we do not support any attachment that claims it works with dry herb for the Dabbler.
Not sure where Vape-Pen stands with the Dabbler globe or when that will be available.
Rekrab "side note also wondering if anyone knows of a dry herb attachment for the dabbler, something that fits."
There is nothing out there for using dry herbs with the Dabbler, unless you want to combust. But our slogan is "Inhale Essence, Not Smoke" and we do not support any attachment that claims it works with dry herb for the Dabbler.
dime
Well-Known Member
Really want to try a globe out.
Dabbler still hitting hard here. Clogging of the heating element has become a significant problem after only half a gram of concentrate. I think I overloaded it too many times. Can scoop out the run-off but the problem has gotten worse than that, concentrate has worked its way to the threading and now is becoming difficult to separate the attachments.
I am honestly a bit timid of cleaning the heating element, because after an iso soak I'm not sure how to clean off the residual iso. Do you rinse it off with water and let dry, or just wipe it clean and do a coil burnoff? Doesn't really seem possible to get rid of all the iso unless you rinse with water, burning off will only remove iso from the coil and not the rest of the heating chamber.
I've seen several posts here about cleaning the coil, how many grams of concentrate are you guys going through before going ahead with this? I wish I could just clean the attachment threading on the exterior of the chamber but then I risk iso seeping into the element (and into my residual concentrate) and not being able to purge it out.
What is the recommendation here?
Dabbler still hitting hard here. Clogging of the heating element has become a significant problem after only half a gram of concentrate. I think I overloaded it too many times. Can scoop out the run-off but the problem has gotten worse than that, concentrate has worked its way to the threading and now is becoming difficult to separate the attachments.
I am honestly a bit timid of cleaning the heating element, because after an iso soak I'm not sure how to clean off the residual iso. Do you rinse it off with water and let dry, or just wipe it clean and do a coil burnoff? Doesn't really seem possible to get rid of all the iso unless you rinse with water, burning off will only remove iso from the coil and not the rest of the heating chamber.
I've seen several posts here about cleaning the coil, how many grams of concentrate are you guys going through before going ahead with this? I wish I could just clean the attachment threading on the exterior of the chamber but then I risk iso seeping into the element (and into my residual concentrate) and not being able to purge it out.
What is the recommendation here?
SlinginPaint
As Above ∞ So Below
Q-tips and ISO. Very easy. Hate sticky threads.
Following Vitolo's original cleaning techniques, I soaked the cartridge in about 1/8 inch of 91% ISO for about 10 min agitating it often and gently using a cleaning toothbrush to brush at the coil. It got all the nasty stuff off. My ceramic cup came out clean as well and after a couple short burn offs it was back to new. I let it sit for another 10 min and just to be sure did another short burn off.
EDIT: Soak Cartridge UPSIDE DOWN
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Caligula
Maximus
Iso completely evaporates, so no need to wash anything. In fact water will take much longer to evaporate and dry. As was said, just use iso and q-tips or paper towel.
dime
Well-Known Member
Is this also the case when it comes into contact with half-baked concentrate?
Asking because I want to do a halfway cleanup, lots of good stuff in there still...
Caligula
Maximus
dime said:
You can do an iso soak and reclaim as long as your gear can handle it (I don't own a dabbler so I don't know what you can and can't soak on it). All you need to do is soak the parts until clean or mostly clean. Then simply remove the parts and let the alcohol evaporate. All the concentrate that was dissolved in it will now be the only thing left on the plate or whatever glass/ceramic surface you are using.
Once complete, you can then heat the reclaim to about 180°F to make sure all the iso got evaporated (iso boils a bit under 180).
Quetzalcoatl
DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Do this: draw up a sink full of hot water, put the cart and some ISO in a ziplock baggie, close it, and set the baggie in the hot water so it floats. The hot water will make the ISO work faster/better. Give it a couple shakes, too. Then just pour the ISO in a dish and let it evaporate. You can rinse the ISO off the cart but I just let the ISO evaporate away. You should be able to get most if not all of the oil off using that tech.
mendohoney
New Member
I've found the easiest way to vacate the Dabbler of unwanted residue is to burn it out.
Take off the cone like you normally would to load and stand the pen upside-down on a flat surface that you can get dirty/sticky. With the heater upside-down and pressed against a flat surface press the button for a full 10sec timeout to make a little oven that'll melt all the old oil in the "moat." I like to immediately shake the pen to fling off whatever's left.
You may want to do q-tips and isopropanol to get it spotless, but this technique will get you off to a great start.
Take off the cone like you normally would to load and stand the pen upside-down on a flat surface that you can get dirty/sticky. With the heater upside-down and pressed against a flat surface press the button for a full 10sec timeout to make a little oven that'll melt all the old oil in the "moat." I like to immediately shake the pen to fling off whatever's left.
You may want to do q-tips and isopropanol to get it spotless, but this technique will get you off to a great start.
dime
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tips, it was actually really easy to clean. I kind of did a halfway maintenance cleanup, got the threads polished up nice, wiped off the top of the ceramic bowl, and cleaned out the mouthpieces. Took a couple swabs of the bowl residue and put them back on top of the coil, not the tastiest but provided half a dozen more hits. Took 15 minutes, 2 q-tips, and a small dish of 90%+ isopropyl. What I realized is that concentrate will mostly move outwards from the coil, so there is no need to worry about iso somehow seeping in (if you do what I did and just clean the outer threading etc). Wipes clean without water.
I'll have to be more careful about overloading the Dabbler, I kind of wanted to see how far it could go. Even still that was really easy cleanup and I bet I could do a few more of those before having to actually clean the coil.
I'll have to be more careful about overloading the Dabbler, I kind of wanted to see how far it could go. Even still that was really easy cleanup and I bet I could do a few more of those before having to actually clean the coil.
chimpybits
Well-Known Member
I ISO cleaned my heater yesterday. A few short soaks and dabs cleaned it up nicely. However, I'm finding the ISO submerge method to be too fiddly to manage any reclaim.
I think if I'm after reclaim, then the heat gun technique that Bholt recommends for their similiar heaters should be a better, easier way to go.
Bholt recommends using a heat gun to melt the goo while holding the heater upside down as shown in this post/video. Apparently, they'll be selling inexpensive ($20) "BHOLT approved heat guns" on their web site.
I think if I'm after reclaim, then the heat gun technique that Bholt recommends for their similiar heaters should be a better, easier way to go.
Bholt recommends using a heat gun to melt the goo while holding the heater upside down as shown in this post/video. Apparently, they'll be selling inexpensive ($20) "BHOLT approved heat guns" on their web site.
dime
Well-Known Member
That is really interesting chimpy thanks for mentioning.
I feel that reclaim is not really worth it, at least in small amounts like with the Dabbler. It is not especially appealing. Scooping up big globs from the bottom of the ceramic bowl is one thing, but trying to get every last drop out is probably not worth the effort.
By the way when cleaning my Dabbler yesterday I realize why I felt I had to draw a little too hard when taking hits, it's just because of the airflow of the mouthpiece. It is seriously restrictive and now I know why people dislike it. I wonder if the idea is to restrict airflow for more regulated/consistent hits? I will probably continue using the default mouthpiece for now as it doesn't bother me too badly. I have found that I've been chiefing on the Dabbler like a blunt rather than a direct draw.
I feel that reclaim is not really worth it, at least in small amounts like with the Dabbler. It is not especially appealing. Scooping up big globs from the bottom of the ceramic bowl is one thing, but trying to get every last drop out is probably not worth the effort.
By the way when cleaning my Dabbler yesterday I realize why I felt I had to draw a little too hard when taking hits, it's just because of the airflow of the mouthpiece. It is seriously restrictive and now I know why people dislike it. I wonder if the idea is to restrict airflow for more regulated/consistent hits? I will probably continue using the default mouthpiece for now as it doesn't bother me too badly. I have found that I've been chiefing on the Dabbler like a blunt rather than a direct draw.
Vitolo
Vaporist
The tiny orifice of the mouthpiece is there for a reason.
1- Only a pinhole is needed.. and this pinhole offers enough restriction
that novices do not over draw and breath too quickly for the "hits" vaporization on the coil.
2- The Dab is not that far off from the pinhole.
It is easy enough to spill a dab by leaning and hitting the button.
The pinhole will:
a-stop you from sucking a hot liquid dab down your gullet
b-prevent pocket smears if you lean the unit in the heat.. keeping the dab from running out.
Edit:
It is the one small spot that requires attention...
keep your pinhole clean!
(once every day or two does it)
1- Only a pinhole is needed.. and this pinhole offers enough restriction
that novices do not over draw and breath too quickly for the "hits" vaporization on the coil.
2- The Dab is not that far off from the pinhole.
It is easy enough to spill a dab by leaning and hitting the button.
The pinhole will:
a-stop you from sucking a hot liquid dab down your gullet
b-prevent pocket smears if you lean the unit in the heat.. keeping the dab from running out.
Edit:
It is the one small spot that requires attention...
keep your pinhole clean!
(once every day or two does it)
Maybe give away a silicone concentrate container or something like that? Might pull more people your way, over a grinder. Just an idea.
You guys spoke and we listened.
