Sorry it has taken so long to write this report but things have been hectic. To recap:
I had received the Vapir NO2 from a friend who had purchased it online for approximately $130. I originally thought the item was a refurbished model but looking at the link my friend sent didnt say anything suggesting this. The vape came in a new looking original Vapir NO2 box which contained a manual, quick start card, clear tube, 2 scrapers, 4 screens, a little clear plastic scooper, a pipe cleaner and a mouth piece. The box was seal with a sticker that says air 2.
Upon first opening the box I immediately removed and smelled the product to determine if it was out-gassing as stated by many online users. To my dismay, it was. Turning the unit on increased the out-gassing several fold. For the next week I had left the NO2 on at full temperature (400 degrees F) for an hour or two a day to try to burn off any external contaminants or accelerants left in the plastic. The smelled had reduced somewhat but was still noticeable by me and several other people.
I was concerned the materials may be out-gassing something toxic so I did some research about the product materials. Vapir customer service stated the following:
Our units are NOT made of plastic. It is a High Grade Medical Nylon-Fiberglass compound. The X-Tip Mouth Piece (attaches to the top of the tube) is made of PC/IR2200, Recycle code 7. Tubes are made of Medical PVC, recycle code 3.
I have researched the mouth piece material mentioned but only obtained several vague references to food grade plastics. I decided to take apart the unit and heat the mouth piece and heater housing to burn off contaminants.
From left to right the components are the mouth piece, rubber heater housing cap, heater housing with brackets and screws, exposed innards showing the heater, thermistor and circuit board. The heater sits in the housing with the wires running through a gap between the cap and a groove in the top of the housing.
The only path for airflow seems to be this gap. This may suggest these wires are out-gassing being nested in this manner along the air intake.
On as side note, the thermistor is free floating just outside the heater housing. This means the thermal readings are of the outside of the housing and that the temperature readings will probably be lower than the inside where your herb sits.
The mouth piece and heater housing were placed in an oven for approximately 45 minutes to bake at 425 degree (25 degrees above the maximum Vapir temperature). When removed they were still rigid and retained heat for quite a while (I believe they were warm to the touch after 15 minutes) but still retained the plastic smell but just slightly. This leads me to believe these components are made of the glass-nylon composite mentioned earlier.
Conclusions:
Since the plastic smell is not noticed in all products and was reduced after heating leads me to believe there are differences in manufacturing producing this effect. The inspection and thermal tests suggest the out-gassing phenomenon is due either to contaminant in the plastic mouth piece/housing or the components (wires/tape) in the air channel. Rigid plastics/composites with low thermal expansion are usually made in molds coated with a releasing agent for ease of removal. This may be, and most likely in my opinion, the cause of the out-gassing. Some manufactures may not use it and hence the problem may not be present in every product.
The product was finally used with herb. After this point, the plastic smell could not be detected. The product functioned well plugged in and when using the battery. The product does run hot but this is expected since the thermometer reads high due to the external placement of the thermistor previously mentioned.
The battery indicator drops when turned on. This may be due to the large current requirement of the product and its need to provide a lot of initial power to heat the brass bowl and steel housing. Since the resistance (the brass bowl) is somewhat constant and current demands are pushed to the maximum value at startup, it would be expected to see a significant voltage drop. The product worked for an extended period of time (~ 30 minutes I think
) while using the battery (it did not go below 2 of the 4 bars).
- Agaliarept
*** UPDATE 08/10/2011***
After reading some posts (up to page 41) I remembered I forgot to add some important notes.
During the initial testing phase (first week) when I heated the unit empty, vapors were observed while taking "ghost hits". These could be seen under a lamp when releasing a mouth full of air or just holding the unit nipple under the light. A light blowing through the vent under the lamp works to show this coming out of the nipple. I assume this was contaminant burn off. I can't remember if they were there after oven heating the unit (I think yes?). The components I put into the oven were the cap/nipple and the bell housing with the vent holes. The main body looked to be made of a different plastic which makes sense since it only houses the electronics. Its proximity to the heating element may cause out-gassing though.
I do not grind my herb. While this may seem to help it allows the herb to become compacted and bound with resin. It also allows fine particles to blow around, stick to screens, stick to other components which can be difficult to clean and to pass through the screens to be inhaled. I suggest breaking off a bud of herb that just fits into the crucible. You will probably notice the herb will heat more thoroughly since the air can channel through the porous bud. If the bud is packed too hard there may be slight burning where the bud edges touch the brass surface (but only on higher temp settings. I don't have a problem with this since I learned the best temp settings). When done, the bud can be easily removed with a toothpick or something similar a looks as clean as the day I purchased it. I can't imagine what grinding would do to this unit. Never tried it with this unit and never will since it clogged my herbal aire. I will make a removable crucible for the NO2 when I have a chance. Not grinding also makes a water pipe useless since virtually no particulates enter the airway. In fact, the water removes some of the resin (vapor) and so you get less active ingredients. If I started burning my herb then I would reconsider.
I never used the clear plastic tube that came with the unit. If I have to soak the plastic beforehand to remove contaminants then I don't want to use it. How do I verify the contaminants have been removed? I went to a hardware store and purchased some food grade, non-toxic plastic tubing (polyethylene I believe). Its a milky white color but still see through. The air leaving the nipple is not hot enough to damage the tube. Actually, I have inhaled directly from the nipple without burning myself. The tube looks like a straw so I grabbed a large subway cup, put a hole through a white salsa lid, slid the tube through the hole and attached to the NO2. Nothing like cruising in the passenger side during traffic "drinking" my favorite magical elixir
.
I don't like to continually charge the battery when it is topped off and the unit is plugged in. Luckily the battery is symmetric so that you can flip the terminals to the bottom and slide it back into the unit along the same grooves. Plug the unit back in and it works as usual without charging plus I don't have to worry about accidentally turning the unit on during travel.
If you want to plug in the unit while in the car you can use an inverter. The inverter plugs into the cigarette lighter and has one or more outlets you can plug the NO2 into. The only reason to have a special charger is if you are going to charge the battery directly (this refers to the mini USB plug on the NO2 battery). In this case the charger needs some kind of circuitry to control the charging process. This circuit is built into the NO2. This means if you lose your NO2 charging plug, or it breaks, you can replace it with a similar plug. Specifically you will need a plug of the same diameter, same polarity (positive inside, negative outside), about 13 volts and a minimum of 2 amps. It may be a bit difficult to find a 2 amp brick. Just look for something that is 12 volts and around 2 amps. I'm sure you will find something
. Your minimum inverter power should be equal or greater than the maximum NO2 power draw. Watts = Volts x Amps so your inverter should be 13 volts x 2 amps = 26 watts minimum. The smallest inverter should easily accomplish this. If you want to charge the battery directly then I believe a mini USB charger should do the trick. I have not done this myself but others have posted that it works. USB power typically runs at 5 volts at 500 millamps (0.5 amps) max.
- Agaliarept