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I editedI can see this last one. It says it's hosted by photobucket.
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I can see this last one. It says it's hosted by photobucket.
Very cool and thanks for the clarification on proper technique. I'd been focusing on just below temp area and middle of cap.Generally, pinpointing is what you do not want to do but rather have the heat evenly distributed. Have played a lot with the best positioning depthwise into the coil to achieve an even extraction.
Very cool and thanks for the clarification on proper technique. I'd been focusing on just below temp area and middle of cap.
I'll start working the torch up and down length of the cap, till I get my Cauldron.
I focus my flame on the bottom third of the cap during the first cycle. Then, because there is still residual heat in the tip, I focus the flame on the middle third of the cap for the second cycle and finally heat the top third during the final and third cycle.
As I twirl my Vapcap in my left hand, my right hand moves the flame in a back and forth motion, up and down over my chosen portion of the cap. I find this achieves a perfectly roasted and tastey flavour.
A friend fixed my JarHead, a yellow wire was slightly burned and interrupted connexion, my friend replaced it with a thicker wire and it's working again now. My friend thoughts the yellow wire was too thin for the power required...Hi @Pipes , I got a Jarhead induction heater from you some years ago, lately it was under daily use but suddenly die today.
Maybe not so suddenly cause since a few days I experimented 2 issues:
- It happened a few times it didn't worked (no light and no heat), I thought it was cause a bad plug cause it never lasted very long.
- It happened 2 or 3 times (last was yesterday) I heard sizzling noise for a heating cycle or two...
Today, I loaded my VapCap, inserted it in the JarHead, got a few seconds of light and heating, no sizzling, not enough time to get the clic before the light suddenly turn off... and the heating too. Since I tried to play with the jack plug since I thought it was the culprit but I wasn't able to turn it on again for the first time since I got it. Once I saw the light for a second or less so I'm still thinking it's maybe a connexion issue since it's very loose... but all my subsequents tries was unsuccessfull.
I know there is no warranty supports to expect but maybe could you lead me in the right direction in order to try to fix my unit by myself. Or maybe somebody else...?
Thanks in advance.
Pipes
I have built 2 IH following your design. Gotta say they sure make for consistent enjoyable vapes.
The 18650 model takes longer to click due to voltage sag (12.6 to 10.6 under load) but the vape is superb. The desk top mains powered one stays constant at 12.2 volts. I have been looking for a material for the activation switch that doesn't deteriorate like the wooden one I made. For herb the wood is fine but I use a lot of concentrates which I heat about 6 seconds past the click and the wood starts smoldering and stinks. I wired up a second push button so I am not pressing the vapcap against the wood and it is better but I love to tinker so I'm still looking for alternatives. I tried making one out of aluminum but it gets to hot and am afraid it will melt the switch and perhaps remain closed without me realizing it.
I can't thank you enough for sharing your plans. To anybody that thinks the parts are cheap and pipes price is to steep. Trust me alot of time goes into making these units and customer support is time consuming also. I built mine for enjoyment of the build not to save money. These units are very well prices in my opinion and if I built them I would be charging more.
Some recent purchasers will have likely noticed that I once again changed up the activation switch mechanism. This change is to address reports of the rubber protection tubing causing issues as well as the rhinestone becoming loose and getting lost.
So basically, it's now a 1/2 sphere pearl look rhinestone affixed by heat activated glue. Secondarily held in place with shrink tubing to keep from moving when hot. Ditched the tubing and went back to the orange o-rings, but this time, 3 rings stacked tight. They fit snug inside the glass tube and has a little clearance between the switch shaft. Now, if anyone does lose the stone, the o-rings will prevent the user from melting the top of the switch giving them a chance to fix before its toast. Since I introduced this a couple of months back, there have been no reports of problems in this area anymore.
For herb the wood is fine but I use a lot of concentrates which I heat about 6 seconds past the click and the wood starts smoldering and stinks.
Any thoughts on a fix?
I’m happy to say my Caldron is out for Delivery. Can’t wait to try it out !!! Love my PSM for it’s Portability. And the Caldron on my coffee table. Great setup !!!
PS; DynaVap Rules !!! 2019 “M” Body - Spinning Mouth Piece - Ti Tip...
Ty; @Pipes