Heres a link http://www.easyinsmile.com/en/digit...red-electronic-sensor-induction-carving-.html
They can be found for as little as 60 bucks on eBay. Any thoughts? Would these work?
VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use
- Thread starter Pipes
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- dynavap induction heat vapcap
Heres a link http://www.easyinsmile.com/en/digit...red-electronic-sensor-induction-carving-.html
They can be found for as little as 60 bucks on eBay. Any thoughts? Would these work?
i just received my induction board. there is one thing im wondering: im trying to get a really slim form factor. could i desolder the two inductors and the two caps and lay them flat right next to the board with some wires? i assume its not a problem at all for the caps, but im not sure about the inductors. can anyone help?
DirtyD
Well-Known Member
Major breakthrough with skelly housing. From cigar box( looked shady as all hell) to fake "yeti" cup . If you are a traveling person you need to do this. The big yet I cup. You can make skelly fit in there, just gotta drill out a bigger hole to fit diameter of glass tube. Gasket. Go straight to all the town's. Stabbing the cup holder with your pipes I h in an insulated s s tumbler. Fly down the highway. Be careful tho. And merry Xmas, D.
@dtrdrk I've moved the caps around a few times, soldered both of them together then used solid copper wire from the legs to the board.
Huge thank you to @Pipes for the opportunity to be the first to give this thing a whirl.
Great fun and I learned a lot.
Nice surprise in a Canadian package today as well, thank you. I'll be sniffing some flux over the festive period especially since a couple of 800mah Turnigy's arrived yesterday.
I'm doing a med grind and straw method of loading.
It's just over an hour to fully charge. Without having sat and watched for the green light I can say an hour and 10 was the quickest I noticed an there were a couple of hour and 20's.
Been tallying 'click to click' and 'dip til done' heat cycles.
No matter how I heat the M has given an average of 15 bowls, Ti has been 17.
That's usually around a gram and is two days usage for me.
I can't fault it, the li-po felt fierce at first due to the increase on the C rating from my VTC4's but now I'm used to it I prefer it this way. Especially with the M.
Only tried on a set of kitchen scales but it weighs the same as the tin of soda.
The battery level indicator works differently, it's as if the first 2 blue LED's are 6 heat cycles each and the third one equates to only 3.
It's just a matter of having to read the indicator in a different manner.
That's the only thing that threw me to start with coming from the Skelly.
It fits fine in my Beats headphone case but it's still a little large for a the pocket in a pair of jeans. A jacket would be fine.
I've got visions of all the people on the Mini lists walking around with soda tins in their pockets now
If you are on the list for one of these you should not be disappointed, having been inside this one I can say given the current build unless you get a smaller li-po you will not get a smaller induction heater.
Thanks again to Pipes for doing all this in his spare time, the Induction Heater is the best accessory any VC owner could have. I wouldn't be without mine now.
Huge thank you to @Pipes for the opportunity to be the first to give this thing a whirl.
Great fun and I learned a lot.
Nice surprise in a Canadian package today as well, thank you. I'll be sniffing some flux over the festive period especially since a couple of 800mah Turnigy's arrived yesterday.
I'm doing a med grind and straw method of loading.
It's just over an hour to fully charge. Without having sat and watched for the green light I can say an hour and 10 was the quickest I noticed an there were a couple of hour and 20's.
Been tallying 'click to click' and 'dip til done' heat cycles.
No matter how I heat the M has given an average of 15 bowls, Ti has been 17.
That's usually around a gram and is two days usage for me.
I can't fault it, the li-po felt fierce at first due to the increase on the C rating from my VTC4's but now I'm used to it I prefer it this way. Especially with the M.
Only tried on a set of kitchen scales but it weighs the same as the tin of soda.
The battery level indicator works differently, it's as if the first 2 blue LED's are 6 heat cycles each and the third one equates to only 3.
It's just a matter of having to read the indicator in a different manner.
That's the only thing that threw me to start with coming from the Skelly.
It fits fine in my Beats headphone case but it's still a little large for a the pocket in a pair of jeans. A jacket would be fine.
I've got visions of all the people on the Mini lists walking around with soda tins in their pockets now
If you are on the list for one of these you should not be disappointed, having been inside this one I can say given the current build unless you get a smaller li-po you will not get a smaller induction heater.
Thanks again to Pipes for doing all this in his spare time, the Induction Heater is the best accessory any VC owner could have. I wouldn't be without mine now.
A little kief sandwich to get my mind and body set to handle sharp objects and fast spinning acylics
Yes, these work too, but they have an auto shutdown, a friend is using one of these ocasionally. After the auto shut down the unit will not heat up for 3 minutes. I dont know if this is also the case for the unit you found.
Kermitt
Well-Known Member
One question to the Portside. The instructions say the following:
"Note to advanced users: The Portside or PSM can be run like a Jarhead if batteries are removed. Meaning a high output 12 volt supply can be used, if batteries are removed ONLY!
Do not get charger and supply confused. Can have very bad results."
But which output is high enough?
"Note to advanced users: The Portside or PSM can be run like a Jarhead if batteries are removed. Meaning a high output 12 volt supply can be used, if batteries are removed ONLY!
Do not get charger and supply confused. Can have very bad results."
But which output is high enough?
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Edgedamage
Well-Known Member
@Pipes you where right to question my heater running on a 2amp power supply. Turns out that out of all the supplies I have, I grabbed a 4amp one. And I am running it at the limit if I go one coil wrap deeper and it cuts out every time. I am finding with induction heating I am getting nice even extraction. Going one second after the click each hit.
@Edgedamage sounds like you're right on the edge of damage. That edge of cutting out is a potential death trap for those transistors. There's a bunch of criteria they need to have and it's reliable as hell. Anything out of that range is often catastrophic. I'd try avoid edging too close if possible, and try find yourself a higher capacity PSU in the meanwhile.
BTW, heating a titanium tip uses 10~20% less current than a SS tip. If you have both, stick to the Ti till you upgrade the PSU.
BTW, heating a titanium tip uses 10~20% less current than a SS tip. If you have both, stick to the Ti till you upgrade the PSU.
Edgedamage
Well-Known Member
The 4amp was used during the testing phase, its running off three 20 amp continuous discharge 18650s. For home use its running off a computer PSU 24 watts on the 12 rail.
dapperdopamine
Well-Known Member
out of curiousity, where is the list, havent been active in a while since my computer broke and is literally taking forever for this guy to get back to me
Dustydurban
Well-Known Member
I believe I read about this some pages back: andThe power supply is indeed a good question. Many units just don't work even if rated to 6 amps. I believe it has to do with the way any one model is designed to handle initial surge. The delay before going into auto shut off mainly. I have gotten 3 different, 6 amp units that just go into over current shut off. Ended up going back to the unit I know works which is actually rated for 5 amp so obviously under rated "and" can handle the surge. This action is what made me initially believe it must be acting like constant current supply when the watt limit is hit. Unfortunately, they can only be had in batches of 20 units and no avoiding paying duty because of their shipping method.
Here is the link. For me to ship just a power supply would be too expensive due to shipping.
An 8 amp unit "should" not have any problems but harder to find at a reasonable price.
I've been using this one https://www.powerstream.com/AC-A0407.htm for a few days
AC or DC works as advertised for our application. Clicks come a bit quicker
too bad the usb port is only 1amp
Nice to have
edit: This is for the "Jarside"
Jarhead Power Supply 2nd edit: take a look at their 12v chargers also
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mixchu69
Well-Known Member
I'm not the brightest guy, but on the portside FAQ, it says I need to only take out 4 screws. The instructions for the screws are a little vague. If I have my portside facing me with led lights, there are 4 screws on the left and 4 on the right. Which screws do I need to unscrew on the left and which ones on the right? It is embarrassing but would appreciate the help.
passenger
is this thing on?
Merry Christmas everyone!
Today I charged my Mighty accidently with the Portside charger. Both devices seem to have survived, but could you guys please educate me a bit about what consequences that could have meant?
I think the Portside charger has: 12,6V and 1A.
The Mighty charger runs 12V and 3A.
That leads me to these questions:
1. What device could have taken damage? From my short googling it seems I could have killed the Portside charger, while the Mighty should have been save.
2. Can i use the Mighty charger for charging my PIH? Would love that possibility, especially when travelling. My portside charger is quite loud anyway...
Today I charged my Mighty accidently with the Portside charger. Both devices seem to have survived, but could you guys please educate me a bit about what consequences that could have meant?
I think the Portside charger has: 12,6V and 1A.
The Mighty charger runs 12V and 3A.
That leads me to these questions:
1. What device could have taken damage? From my short googling it seems I could have killed the Portside charger, while the Mighty should have been save.
2. Can i use the Mighty charger for charging my PIH? Would love that possibility, especially when travelling. My portside charger is quite loud anyway...
No, not a good idea. Using a 3 amp, 12 volt supply on the IH will:
1/never fully charge the cells to full, and will always be actively topping up.
2/charge rate will be two high when battery is low. Quick charging is recommended usually around 1 - 1.2 amp. type thing. Will be very hard on the cells and they may not even take it for long as will get quite hot.
3/Do you smell something burning?...
Now, since I do not know the Mighty's circuits, hard to say the other way around. However,:
1/charge rate will be slower.
2/could be over charging but bet there is some intelligents in the Mighty to prevent this.
3/hard on charger as could be running full out the whole time.
4/man, I'm sure I smell something burning.....
As @cybrguy states, label them for what they are for. Best stick with recommended units.
wileycoyote1103
Well-Known Member
Changed the O-ring size? I ordered #10 last week. Just got my order in the mail, and was making sure the parts were right. Saw it was changed to #109. Kinda threw me for a loop. Thought I was gonna have to pay $6 to ship something that cost $1 again.
Guess they will still work I'm sure.
Guess they will still work I'm sure.
wileycoyote1103
Well-Known Member
So sorry. That was my mistake in the parts list. Just got some myself and figured out I'd put the wrong size in the doc.
So I do need #109 instead of #10?
pxl_jockey
Just a dude
I can't wait to get a Pipes PM telling me to pay him for a Skelator. @SloJimFizz cautioned me about a newly discovered affliction called Skelator Enclosure Obsessive (SEO) behaviour, whereupon the patient is constantly scanning and evaluating every object's suitability as a possible home for her/his Skelly.
Why can't I realise that these vaping afflictions are voluntarily contracted by prolonged exposure to FC?!
Why can't I realise that these vaping afflictions are voluntarily contracted by prolonged exposure to FC?!
That's correct.
