VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use
- Thread starter Pipes
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- dynavap induction heat vapcap
paehtod
Well-Known Member
My skelly have 100% same situation with your PS, forgive me I feel less uphappy that i am not alone.
I am exactly same that dead on the 5th dip. Also try charging to top up with included charger but worst, all lights gone when turn on killswitch. I already pm pipes and gonna send back for fix.
I have consoled myself that I am really good at using torch, I can wait, I am not hurry.
Installing the Batteries:
Only 4 screws need to be removed. Looking from the front the two screws on the right and turning the unit around again the two screws on the right. Unit will slide open as shown. Install batteries and re-insert the screws careful not to cross thread.
Use flat top 18650 batteries rated for at least 20 amp continuous draw.
From FAQ.
Not sure of the specs of the power supply your asking about so can't comment.
GreenHopper
20 going on 60
WoodScents power supply = 12v 3amp output.
I believe the induction heater is recommended at 12v 12amps output.
I wouldn't use the WoodScents Power Supply.
Why do you want to run the PS via main rather than batteries? Just curious in relation to usage scenarios.
IAmKrazy2
Darth Vapor
Was waiting to get some new dedicated batteries, and wanted to try the power supply in the mean time.
I can just install 3 seasoned 18650's and see what happens. I will get a chance to mess with it more on Sunday.
Also... What is the little metal square glued on top of the portside? It seems like it could come off in time, and doesn't seem to have any apparent use.
Summer
Long Island, NY
It's a magnet to stand the vc on, however, I don't know if the magnet you got is magnetized on the top or the sides (forget the technical terminology) as @Pipes was going to change batteries from side to top magnetization(?). Mine had the side magnetization, but I found it useless so I removed it & picked up a center magnetized one from dynavap, just haven't attached it yet. Will probably use crazy glue & not that sticky silicone-type stuff Pipes used.
GreenHopper
20 going on 60
Ah I see, I think you'll be fine with the seasoned batteries while you wait for a new set. As long as they are rated 20amp+ you'll be fine.
jerseydvd
Well-Known Member
What batteries do people use in the portside? I used to vape and was always partial to either the LG HG2 3000mah 20 amp, or the Efest 3500mah 20 amp.
I know efest also has a 3000mah 35 amp battery. Any advantage to higher amperage in the portside? Maybe even disadvantages ?
I know efest also has a 3000mah 35 amp battery. Any advantage to higher amperage in the portside? Maybe even disadvantages ?
IAmKrazy2
Darth Vapor
Thanks for all the help guys. After a little trouble batteries are installed and PS is now working.
Magnet doesn't seem to work for my VC. Not powerful enough. And one of my screws is already almost stripped. This could be an issue if taking in and out batteries often. The rattle sound also bothers me a little. I worry about durability. Can i just throw it in a backpack and go?
Functionally i really like the device. Really good heat, quicker than i expected, and easy and fun to use.
Magnet doesn't seem to work for my VC. Not powerful enough. And one of my screws is already almost stripped. This could be an issue if taking in and out batteries often. The rattle sound also bothers me a little. I worry about durability. Can i just throw it in a backpack and go?
Functionally i really like the device. Really good heat, quicker than i expected, and easy and fun to use.
Summer
Long Island, NY
Batteries won't have to be replaced for a good long while so you won't be opening it that often. Just pick up a new screw at the hardware store or aisle; & maybe a new better quality screwdriver that won't strip the threads. I asked about the rattling sound & @Pipes said the battery holder is attached to the metal frame w/ double-sided tape & it's just wobbling. You could always try to adhere it tighter with double sided tape, I haven't yet, but I will. I take it everywhere with me. Haven't gotten a dedicated carrying bag for my vapeware yet so I just carry it in & out to the car in a plastic bag.
Also, after using it as is, if you aren't happy with the PS enclosure, you can always move it over to another enclosure.
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KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
No this is bullshit, it's a 20A CDR cell with 25A max peak. Most probably a rewrapped Samsung 30Q.
The Efest 3500mAh 20A is not suitable for this application, it's only 12A CDR and 15A max. It would even be borderline dangerous to use.
Forget Efest really, they are not a manufacturer. Or well, the only thing they manufacture is the labels they print to put their brand on 3rd party cells.
There are only 3 brands you should trust: Sony, Samsung and LG (and Panasonic/Sanyo but not for high discharge 18650's)
jerseydvd
Well-Known Member
Ok, we’ll i am we’ll versed it 18650’s already. I do know that efest is rewrapped Panasonic. My faves used to be the lg hg2 3000mah (brown wrapper). 20 amp peak
That’s why I’m asking these questions. To know what stats are best for a portside. No need to try to school me in general 18650 crap. ✌Still, don’t know the basic answer to my original questions. What batteries seem to work best and last longest in portside..... any Recommendations?
That’s why I’m asking these questions. To know what stats are best for a portside. No need to try to school me in general 18650 crap. ✌Still, don’t know the basic answer to my original questions. What batteries seem to work best and last longest in portside..... any Recommendations?
mmNo this is bullshit, it's a 20A CDR cell with 25A max peak. Most probably a rewrapped Samsung 30Q.
The Efest 3500mAh 20A is not suitable for this application, it's only 12A CDR and 15A max. It would even be borderline dangerous to use.
Forget Efest really, they are not a manufacturer. Or well, the only thing they manufacture is the labels they print to put their brand on 3rd party cells.
There are only 3 brands you should trust: Sony, Samsung and LG (and Panasonic/Sanyo but not for high discharge 18650's)
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Excuse me but you propose using a 12A CDR cell that is completely inappropriate for this application and you call that schooling you in 18650 crap?
That's precisely why we need to repeat the same thing over and over, most FC members have strictly no clue about Lithium-Ion cells and how dangerous they are. House fires due to them is not a myth you know.
Perhaps you know better but my answer will help other readers avoid the same mistake? Perhaps you could also read the damn thread and find the answer to your question yourself, instead of making us sound like broken records?
That's precisely why we need to repeat the same thing over and over, most FC members have strictly no clue about Lithium-Ion cells and how dangerous they are. House fires due to them is not a myth you know.
Perhaps you know better but my answer will help other readers avoid the same mistake? Perhaps you could also read the damn thread and find the answer to your question yourself, instead of making us sound like broken records?
Summer
Long Island, NY
Most use the LG HG2 3000mah. You do have to read through the thread, but take a look at my posts beginning here & @Pipe's responses. Hey, it's a start.
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/v...top-and-in-car-use.23211/page-40#post-1153745
I bought mine at liionwholesale.com, others use illumn.com & I believe most use imrbatteries.com. All are reliable sources.
WoodVillain
Backwoods Rated
No this is bullshit, it's a 20A CDR cell with 25A max peak. Most probably a rewrapped Samsung 30Q.
The Efest 3500mAh 20A is not suitable for this application, it's only 12A CDR and 15A max. It would even be borderline dangerous to use.
Forget Efest really, they are not a manufacturer. Or well, the only thing they manufacture is the labels they print to put their brand on 3rd party cells.
There are only 3 brands you should trust: Sony, Samsung and LG (and Panasonic/Sanyo but not for high discharge 18650's)
Not for this application but what's wrong with nitecore NL189 batts? Been using the same one for over 3 years and the charge still last a long time and i use it often... I was considering picking up a new one for backup? It's for a flashlight if it matters. Fenix pd35.
Is there a better option that still holds a charge as long?
Sorry for going off topic.... But you seem to know about batteries. Feel free to pm if preferred, and thanks in advance
And on topic... I got my vtc4 batteries in today and have them charging up on a nitecore d2 charger. Excited to get my PS... Hopefully Monday!
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Most of the time there's nothing wrong with rewraps excepted they just write exaggerated numbers on them and that sets unrealistic expectations which can lead to dangerous situations.
Sometimes you may also get B-grades instead of A-grades but it's not obvious unless you measure their parameters closely, or it might just show over time as they age faster etc.
But sometimes you get really bad stuff, like really poor cells able to handle only 3A... and when you try to draw 25A from them, bam!
At least with name brands (and using a reliable source) you know what you get.
PS: for your flashlights as long as you're not into silly high lumens stuff it's usually not a problem. And you can use protected cells too no? The ones with the nipple.
Sometimes you may also get B-grades instead of A-grades but it's not obvious unless you measure their parameters closely, or it might just show over time as they age faster etc.
But sometimes you get really bad stuff, like really poor cells able to handle only 3A... and when you try to draw 25A from them, bam!
At least with name brands (and using a reliable source) you know what you get.
PS: for your flashlights as long as you're not into silly high lumens stuff it's usually not a problem. And you can use protected cells too no? The ones with the nipple.
Summer
Long Island, NY
Here's a testament to the LG HG2:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/v...top-and-in-car-use.23211/page-40#post-1154941
@KeroZen & @WoodVillain, did you see the link in my above post that Pipes uses the Stony VCT4? He said his mah's are 1500 so they must have upgraded it as now they're 2100. Here's his entire post:
So coming from Pipes' battery choice, maybe the highest mah-rated 18650 isn't always the best?
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/v...top-and-in-car-use.23211/page-40#post-1154941
@KeroZen & @WoodVillain, did you see the link in my above post that Pipes uses the Stony VCT4? He said his mah's are 1500 so they must have upgraded it as now they're 2100. Here's his entire post:
So coming from Pipes' battery choice, maybe the highest mah-rated 18650 isn't always the best?
WoodVillain
Backwoods Rated
I asked him which batteries he personally recommended when i paid for my PS. I figured i can't go wrong using what he uses LOL
I ordered from liion. Quick shipping and everything came looking good to me.
Summer
Long Island, NY
So, what you're saying @WoodVillain, is that you ordered the Sony VCT4? I spoke to Liion CS about about a website issue during the eclipse & I really was impressed with their attentiveness.
WoodVillain
Backwoods Rated
Yep i got the VTC4s. All charged up and ready to go now.
My Portside should be here tomorrow.
My Portside should be here tomorrow.
LabPong
Well-Known Member
Just because I had several extra Samsung 25R's.....that's what I use in my skelly. They work fine and I would never even worry or want any battery that might last longer. They last long enough and I get days on end from 1 charge anyway. Using the better LG's and Sony's for my Air.
mmenzie
My friends call me "Menz"
My Portside literally just arrived and i released it from its packaging. o placed 3 18650's in it that i picked up from IMR. i hp[e they are facing the correct way as these batteries were not marked "+" or "-" so i assumed that the totally smooth flat end was "-" and the end with some divets was "+"
i plugged in the supplied charging cable and when i press the test button i see one red light, one green light and 2 of the 3 blue lights lit but only when i press the button and for a few seconds after i release the button. I hope this means its charging? is there supposed to be any other indicators when charging lit all the time? any idea how long it should take to fully charge?
i have read the FAQ but did not see this mentioned. i do have a jarhead as well (for now) so i understand the basic workings of the unit but since my jarhead is plugged in all the time i am not sure of the subtle differences between the two yet
i plugged in the supplied charging cable and when i press the test button i see one red light, one green light and 2 of the 3 blue lights lit but only when i press the button and for a few seconds after i release the button. I hope this means its charging? is there supposed to be any other indicators when charging lit all the time? any idea how long it should take to fully charge?
i have read the FAQ but did not see this mentioned. i do have a jarhead as well (for now) so i understand the basic workings of the unit but since my jarhead is plugged in all the time i am not sure of the subtle differences between the two yet