VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use

[Prolusio]

Could your herb possibly be falling down and touching the cap since it's being inverted in the jarhead @Alexis ? Might be possible if it's filled loosely! Could try tamping the herb down just slightly so it can't fall and see if that helps.

I've been using my jarhead daily since I recieved it and from my experience it's much harder to combust/char than with a lighter! I've been getting even extractions with consistent heat up times. Jarhead seems to be doing the same thing every time I use it. I was a little worried it might have some variance to the output making sessions unpredictable; but in my experience it's been a consistent workhorse. The only thing I have to watch and adjust for is how hot my vapcap is in back to back sessions; if it's already warm Jarhead can heat to click much faster than a person can be expecting.

There's a little bit of learning curve coming from the lighter, especially if you have several vapcaps because each one heats up just slightly differently.. But it's so convenient to use I found testing to be a breeze and quickly nailed the "feel" of it. I don't count seconds, I just feel/hear the clicks in the stem and judge from that; works for me!

IMO @Pipes induction heaters are a must have if you're a heavy capper. It's so easy to reach over and heat another bowl there's just no reason to use a lighter. I can keep gaming/browsing without even taking my hand off the mouse, take a puff as I pass my desk or cook some food.. Just so convenient!

And if you consider the cost of butane (which for me isn't high but everyone has different access/use) the Jarhead will eventually pay for itself. It does use some power but it's extremely miniscule.. If you heat 100 caps a day every day for a year, with 15 seconds heat up time for each cap (just for the estimate) and a cost of 13.75 cent/kWh.. The jarhead will only cost you $1.20 per year. And that's a really really high estimate since most people won't do that many bowls, or that long of a heat up time, or use it every single day; and I took the max power the adapter can output not what the coil is actually using.. So yeah, the Jarhead basically costs nothing to run. Might take a few years but eventually I'll have a "free" Jarhead if I stop using butane!

For me the induction heaters bring the functionality of the Vapcap even closer to a joint by freeing up that one hand; absolutely love it! Great work @Pipes , super excited for the Portside!

 

[Pipes]

Sounds very odd. Electrically, it can't really fail and still fire up.
Yes, please take pic of the cap penetration depth. If cap removed from bowl, it should rest with only 2-3 mils of cap to grab onto while inside the tube. Also, take a pic from the top of the glass tube looking down into it.
I'm thinking the wooden spacer which rests atop the tactile button has shifted or even come off.
We shall see.

Edit:
This is the way the switch is put together. Tweezers can be used to put it on as just slips over the button and is tight enough to stay in play. (most of the time)...?

 

[Alexis]

Thank you @Pipes and @Prolusio , you guys are all so helpful in this blissfully pleasant thread.
I will get some photos as soon as as I can. Not quite in fit state to be productive but soon as.
I am struggling to equate your photo of the tactile switch, with anything in my jarhead.
But it is late and need daylight, freshness.
I'll be back real soon. Enjoy your sundays (at least in the US, or 1 minute for UK.

Edit, I get it now. I see it. Wil get shots, thanks!

 

[Herbonius]

FWIW my heater toasts the full load very evenly and I don't find any of the hits too hot at all. I actually don't even grind my herb, I just read off a chunk and stuff it in.

 

[Alexis]

Okay @Pipes and co, thank you for bearing with me- the circus has arrived!



I imagine everything looks normal. Except that small bit of rubber in the last photo that was loose in the jarhead. Surely thatbtiny thing cant be the cause of the issue?
I expect we will need to wait until my Kwik Weld arrives for ke to assemble the unit for a bit more testing in a more convenient manner.
I have some vapor breaks coming up presently so we will just work around things when the time is right. No real urgency. I appreciate all of your inputs.

@Prolusio I did also try tamping the loads down. When I tried unground nugs I made sure they were tucked lower in the bowl, but they were still blackened on top and unvaped underneath.

Oh yes, image 2 is the cap in heater not pushed down, image is pushed down on the switch.

 

[Hogni]

No one else with issues?

And no matter using a 110V charger or a 220v charger for driving the PS/Skeletor?

What type of connector is necessary for connecting the PS/Skeletor with a charger?

Whats about the LED? Which type has one?

@Pipes Perhaps some questions - and answers - for your FAQ?

Hi @Pipes, would be very nice if you would answer my open questions. It's important for my decision. Thank you!

 

[Pipes]

No problem. The charger can take either line voltage but comes with a US plug so an adapter may be needed for your country.
This is a charger and will not "drive" the heater, only for charging the batteries which do the driving.
The setup uses standard 5.5X2.1mm connections.
Currently, only the Portside comes with a glowing glass tube. Skeletor has light on switch board and can not be seen if enclosed. User can add LEDs or indicator as they see fit.
I may change this if demand is there, but an extra cost would be involved.
The FAQ is updated as things change and try to have the majority of answers in it.

 

[Hogni]

Thanks a lot! I would like a Skeletor with a glowing glass tube. Guess most customers are interested in this new feature. What would be extra cost?

 

[Pipes]

Please use PM to request orders. Current inventory is all spoken for and making lists for new requests.
The current ordered units are already made and just awaiting the gauge.
Next run parts are in early ordering stages so will be a couple months before units can be assembled.
Expect the new glow tube version will be $5 more.

 

[Rumble Duck]

Good day pals! Just a little update to my all in one heater/bubbler combo cup. I'm still waiting for all the damn parts to get here from China, but I've been messing around with possible configurations.

So I think I could fit it into a smaller 10oz tumbler as long as the inside diameter is 90mm or greater (roughly 3.5"). If I can find a 4" diameter mug I'll be golden.

And Pipes you were definitely right, I will be much better off using the single slot battery holders and then just connecting them to the BMS with wires or whatever. Also, I found a much smaller BMS that is rated at 20A, so that will save space as well. Only downside is that it will look kinda ugly with all the wires, but if its all sealed in a cup who cares!

If I position the induction heating coil directly above the little donut thing that is on the power module (sorry I'm still learning wtf all these electrical components are), I could save a bunch of space.

Additional parts I purchased if anybody wants to attempt one of these as well:

Smaller BMS

Mini Bubbler

Single Slot 18650 Holder

My only concern is the mini bubbler since there are no product dimensions on DHgate, but once it arrives I'll be able to move things around again if I have to. I just eyeballed it for now since I know the female joint is 10mm

 

[Pipes]

Nice. You still have vertical space if you need too.
Couple things. That holder comes with pretty small gauge wire. Should be OK if you keep the run only an inch or so between them. This type would be preferable as can use some heavier wire.
A note on the BMS unit. Unless it states it has on board balancing, it likely doesn't. Balancing boards can be bought separately for a buck or two.
They are not overly needed on the short term but help to keep the batteries age the same over longer term.

 

[Pipes]

I see the problem....
The glass tube has moved too high compared to coil. It should only show about half the amount above the coil. (4-5mm) Currently looking like 9-10mm. You can push the glass through the coil some and bend the whole coil upwards some as well.
The way it's sitting now would definitely be heating more towards the bottom.
The rubber piece is the tubing used to hold the wooden piece to top of switch, but yours is sitting correctly so must have been an extra stuck somewhere.
If movement of glass and coil is too easy you can put a drop of crazy glue on the coil so it adheres to the glass.
Let us know how it pans out.

Okay @Pipes and co, thank you for bearing with me- the circus has arrived!



I imagine everything looks normal. Except that small bit of rubber in the last photo that was loose in the jarhead. Surely thatbtiny thing cant be the cause of the issue?
I expect we will need to wait until my Kwik Weld arrives for ke to assemble the unit for a bit more testing in a more convenient manner.
I have some vapor breaks coming up presently so we will just work around things when the time is right. No real urgency. I appreciate all of your inputs.

@Prolusio I did also try tamping the loads down. When I tried unground nugs I made sure they were tucked lower in the bowl, but they were still blackened on top and unvaped underneath.

Oh yes, image 2 is the cap in heater not pushed down, image is pushed down on the switch.

 

[Rumble Duck]

Nice. You still have vertical space if you need too.
Couple things. That holder comes with pretty small gauge wire. Should be OK if you keep the run only an inch or so between them. This type would be preferable as can use some heavier wire.
A note on the BMS unit. Unless it states it has on board balancing, it likely doesn't. Balancing boards can be bought separately for a buck or two.
They are not overly needed on the short term but help to keep the batteries age the same over longer term.

Thanks Pipes! Just placed an order for those battery holders. And hmmm okay, I will look into balancing boards! I still have an order for the original 25A BMS you used on the way as well. I just don't know if I will be able to fit it in with everything.

I know for certain that if I use the taller 20oz cup, I will be able to fit the batteries and hopefully BMS on the bottom, and the coil and bubbler up top with plenty of extra space for storage tubes and whatnot

 

[grokit]

I looked inside my jarhead again, and figured out a way to 'fix' it without drilling through the lid.

I hand-drilled a hole through just the circuitboard and ran a tie wrap through it. I took it for a test drive and nothing's melted, went 3 seconds after the click. I could probably still secure the board better to the lid with a new hole for another nut/bolt, but it feels pretty solid as it is. I could also add more glue to the torn part but what it really needed was what it got, which was some additional mechanical reinforcement. It's not a perfect solution as it puts some indirect strain on a couple of solder joints, but it's working great.

 

[The Beagle]

@Pipes my heater didn't come with the little wooden spacer on the button and in fact I manage to scorch it a bit the first time I tried it and overheated my cap. I'll put something in it, maybe silicone would be ok?

 

[Rumble Duck]

@Pipes my heater didn't come with the little wooden spacer on the button and in fact I manage to scorch it a bit the first time I tried it and overheated my cap. I'll put something in it, maybe silicone would be ok?

Cut a little cylinder out of a wine cork

 

[Pipes]

@Pipes my heater didn't come with the little wooden spacer on the button and in fact I manage to scorch it a bit the first time I tried it and overheated my cap. I'll put something in it, maybe silicone would be ok?

Must have come off.
@Rumble Duck has a good solution. Cut a piece of cork or soft wood close to the full inside diameter of the tube. Need about 4 mm of space between the top of button to end of VC. Make a hole the size of button top so it can have some friction fit to hold in place. Make the hole a few mils deep and leave the 4 mils un-drilled. You should end up with a disk with a hole half way through it. If all done correctly, you should be able to drop onto the top of button, and push down to secure it. There are two O rings which help keep the button from being pushed sideways, they should just push down when you install the new crown. If you need to, remove one to gain space.
Let us know how you make out.

 

[The Beagle]

Thanks Pipes, I'll give it a try.

 

[Alexis]

No problem. The charger can take either line voltage but comes with a US plug so an adapter may be needed for your country.
This is a charger and will not "drive" the heater, only for charging the batteries which do the driving.
The setup uses standard 5.5X2.1mm connections.
Currently, only the Portside comes with a glowing glass tube. Skeletor has light on switch board and can not be seen if enclosed. User can add LEDs or indicator as they see fit.
I may change this if demand is there, but an extra cost would be involved.
The FAQ is updated as things change and try to have the majority of answers in it.

Hello Pipes, sorry for the late report. And thank you man for your knowledge spotting the problem- the glass tube in my jarhead having moved up in the coil.

Sure enough, this seems to be the ticket. Without question, the depth of the glass tube inside the coil determines how long it takes to reach click, and surely therefore how far down the tip the bowl is heated.

When my tube was sticking out 9 mm ish, the click was super fast- 3 seconds. As a result, it makes sense that the heat was being too concentrated on the very end of the tip,,and causing a build up of heat and an early click, before the heat had a chance to dissipate down the tip.

I have played around with tube placement. I realise that each persons' own jarhead may function slightly differently depending on exactly where the tube sits. And this can be modified to preference. This may alter the time one heats to, be it to the click or a number of seconds past it.

Curently I have the tube sticking only a few mm out of the coil. Like @Stu 's video, it is about 10 seconds to click. This implies that the heat is spread further down the tip. Stu said he stops at the click. I guess his tube is placed quite deep inside the coil, hence no need to go past the ckick.

So I think I will want to experiment and find my sweet spot for dpeth of tube in coil, and according heating time/technique.

The adjustment did definitely help with the uneven load cooking I had at first. But I was still not getting the best results, with some uneven extraction. See below:


Also I was getting some throat irritation. By tuesday and wednesday, I also was not getting much vapor from the Omnivap. I tried adjusting heating etc. The loads were coming out dark, but hits were almost absent. And my throat was feeling it.

I am pretty unwell and has been hectic week. I gave up on the jarhead momentarily. But I was failing to get any decent hits from my Omni with the torch as well. Barely any visible vapor,,little medicating effect, and puzzlingly- the loads were coming out very dark brown.

Only last night did I realise the issue- I only got the new 4th gen Ti tip a week ago. And the jarhead came at the same time. The 4th Gen tip functions slightly diferently to the 3rd gen, so I knew I needed to test the ropes. And the jarhead also works differently.
So, 2 new ponies to ride! I also play around with the hemp fiber to catch crumbs, cool vapor, and keep comdenser clean,

I dont bother with the 2 screen hemp sandwhich method. I put a small bundle of hemp fiber underneath the screen from the condenser end, or I drop a bundle of it under the screen in the bottom of the bowl, tucked into the hole, and then push the screen into place on top, in the full bowl position.

Anyway, last night, after 2 days of failing to get stoned even on 6 or 7 full bowls a day, and wasting precious material all dark brown for a meager return vapor and effect wise...

I discovered that my hemp fiber bundles were completely clogged with reclaim! In only a week if that. I removed them (2 little unrecognisable black sticky balls). The airflow was completely blocked. I put the hemp reclaim ball in the bowl and hit it- WOW! Monster hits. I was more wrecked in one hit than 6 bowls in a day on wednesday.

I got several huge hits from it. And more later on, not even finished it yet. One hit was the biggest I have ever had from the Vapcap. HUGE, but still very smooth!

I did a few bowls with herb last night too, and sure enough- Omni is back in action. Huge vapor clouds and I was wrecked. I was getting really depressed before this. I was wasting my precious limited organic fert free stash, and still having to deal with my allergy to weed, vut for only a marginal buzz.

I tried heating more with both torch and jarhead (before I realised the blockage). I think the vapor was getting trapped and re-condensing in the clogged reclaim hemp balls.

I mean, the loads were all done, but nothing seemed to come out. And there was a TON of potency in those hemp fiber balls.

So I need to go and try the jarhead again now, Omni unblocked. This would surely have affected the evenness of extraction. And as I wasnt getting any real vapor, I would have been overheating with the jarhead. Airflow impeded, Im hoping this was the cause of the still uneven extraction in the images above. Fingers crossed!

I have my JB Kwik Weld now. I intend to make sure I have the tube in the nest place before I fix it together, it will be harder to adjust afterwards. The tube stays put well once moved though, no need for glue.

So there you are. A topsy turvy week. Im such a dumbass as well. I thought my tolerance had suddenly rocketed, or that it is a tolerance to my only 2 strains.
But no! Vapcap was bloody blocked with solid hemp fiber reclaim! And it kicks my ass again now! Im still a lightweight, but a grateful one!

I will repot further once things are clearer. Thanks very much Pipes have wicked weekend bro!

 

[virtualpurple]

@Pipes how comes progress on the portside my friend?

I am unfortunately still on a break so only my girlfriend has been able to use the jarhead this far. Now, she loves it but she had also broke the heater from the almateriwl it was mounted to.

I need to find a replacement lid that will fit and then figure out something to mount it to with the jb weld. What diameter do you have the lids drilled out to?

Thanks sir,

VP

 

[Pipes]

Both PS and Skeletors are all made for first batches and just awaiting the arrival of the gauges. Was hoping to already have a couple weeks back.
Have a couple orders in for the gauges now.
Lists are building fast for a next batch which will be a couple months away.

Dang, the JBWeld is not holding as well as I'd hoped, it seems. Re-affixing should be pretty strait forward though. Why does the lid need replacing? Might be easier to just get another jar from a Dollar store. The tube is 17mm so the hole needs to clear that.
I used the perf bread board, as has the holes give the JBW some bite. As well as, something to drill holes into for nuts and bolts. Can also use tie wraps to affix unit. You can also use alternative platform such as sheet metal, plastic etc. Which in turn can be bolted to the lid.
Let me know how it works out or if you need any additional help.

 

[virtualpurple]

Thanks brother! I just need to replace the lid (or entire assembly) because it's disappeared in our house. When the heater broke from the circuit board we removed the lid so she could still use the heater and I think she may have just lost track one night and tossed the lid.

If if do love into a new jar altogether donyou have any recommendations for drilling through the glass on the side without cracking the jar?

Really looking forward to your portside brother!

 

[Pipes]

No problem.
Drilling through glass is actually easy when done right.
You need one of these diamond hole drill bits and a basin deep enough to just cover the glass with water. Fill the basin or bucket just until the area to be drilled is just under the water line. Drill slowly and steady and hold at a perfect 90 degree angle. Takes like 30 seconds to a minute. Go really slow towards the end to minimize inside chipping.
I have extra drill bits and will include one in your PS so you can avoid having to order.
Sound good?

 

[virtualpurple]

Dude, you are a saint. I would appreciate that and will work out something to compensate you my brother!

 

[CuckFumbustion]

Lot more technichal discussions and posts emerging that might be beneficial to the induction heater. Thermostatic metal. How cape might break down. And applying heat or electricity to metal. Charts and tables, etc. possible starting point-> Dynavap VapCap | Page 620 | FC Vaporizer Review Forum